hang about, i'm working on it.
first of all, welcome, the prefered terminology for the "c" word is conformadore
1- rectangle indicator that sticks out from the "b" pillar- pre 60's beetles, not sure about kombis- over $100 each if your not lucky enough to have em
2-did you say the "r" word, tisk tisk.in the bonnet under the spare wheel and under the rubber seals
behind the wheel arch (front) bottom of "a" pillar where the door hinges screw on. bottom of doors inside and out. under the 1/4 vent windows
the "heater channel" ie. underneath where the doors close from front to back, look behind the running boards from underneath the car to spot this one.
in front of the rear wheel arch, the rear bumper mounts and rear apron
the lower sections of mud guards, bonnets and "boot" or "decklids" ie. rear /engine cover
floor pans halves- to the point where they dissapear altogether- flinstones style.
theres more, but hellbus knows evey single one
3--- the pre 68 beetles all have similar overall appearence, after that they changed a few times
4-- 6 volt electrical systems. sometimes refers to appearance as mentoned in point three, as the 12volt system was introduced with the change of body design. a well maintained 6v system can work fine, but dull lights, no stereo etc. you know what would be involved in changing the system over, so lets just say its easily done with no modifying, take out, bolt in replacement
5---- wild to mild, "narrowed" front ends are either for looks, to go real low, or to gain clearence on outer mudguard lip for the wheels/tyres or a combo of all the above.
6-----5 speeds can be done and involves a new section being added to the nose of the gearbox to accomodate the 5th gear. the diff is integrated into the box, so its not a matter of getting a celica box, rear engine cars eg porsche can be used, either way 5 speed equates to big $$$$$$$$$$$. the four works fine as the 4th gear was designed quite high from the factory- remeber autobahns!
7-----now your'e saying the f word! fire? it does happen but rarely, but the seat is not bolted down, so matainance is easy. acid leaking on the floor is not good, so battery clamps should be working, a simple rubber door mat will almost expell the myth of fire caused by short cuircits
8---single port heads have one hole on the ouside of the casting, and split for the two valves, within the head itself.
dual ports have two holes/ports all the way through the head, and further up towards the carbie (single barrel) the manifold splits it from 4 individual to 2 then joins to 1.
opinions of performance differences are endless
9----depends on height of suspension mainly.REAR END/AXLE lets think about a see-saw, teeter totter. just think about what goes on from the pivot point to the end you are sitting on.
when you go up, you lean forward, down you lean back.
the v.w axle pivots from the gearbox,(which makes this point almost at the centerline of the car) when the axle pushes up towards the body(lowered), the top of the tyres leans forwards towards the center line-NEGATIVE camber! opposite produces positive camber.
the camber varies a touch as the vehicle is under power or coasting, cuased by squatting/loading rear suspension
10---pre 1969 beetles used swing axles or straight axles.
after that they added a diagonal trailing arm and C.V joints to cure the camber changes associated with one piece axles. refered to as I.R.S- although they were all independent of each other
back to the see-saw.a c.v joint allows the plank of said sesaw to bend at both the middle and seat end. the one at the seat end conteracts/corrects the angle created as it goes up and down. now you dont laen back and forth, your camber doesn't change! do you fell less sensation/safer? not a bad thing for a car hey!
theres more too it, but thats the basic of it
11---5 holes/wheel bolts for early-6volt-pre68 beetles.
4 holes for later, 68 onwards
5 holes for porsche-interestingly, the same distance from the center pont of the hub as four stud V.W pattern-only 5 holes instead. this is why it is possible to redrill and use studs and nuts, or drill and tap for wheel bolts-- not recommended
new "blank" v.w rotors/drums can be bought and drillied to suit all sorts of patterns other than porsche. they are a original v.w size and as such, use the other associated original v.w parts. its just like renewing the worn out ones, just bolting on the replacement parts, only with a different pattern!
or you can use porsche set ups, including the BIG calipers, pads and rotors you would expect from porsche. more complicated due to the different bearing/stubs sizes and offset issues
12--- put your foot on the middle peddle and PUSH!
if that doesn't work, try the handbrake! some people call it the emergency brake.
turn the key to the off position.
13--- that depends. spend $10000 and be done with it!
see here:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=48328
:sandrine
[ Edited on 26-1-06 by dumone ]
