new approach to under-car rads?

baybuscamperkid prince of insufficient light, ruler of heck

4,316 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 22 Jan 2006, 10:11 am

#449469

just looking at some pics of early bays/splits with their flat pan over the chassis, just wondering, i imagint this would provide a smoother earflow under the car, could adding one of these improve airflow to radiators setup with louvres etc as done in most under-car rad fitments at the moment? your thoughts please

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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body

7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 22 Jan 2006, 11:54 am

#449505

I don't fully understand what you are asking?

Is it a floor pan you want to add or a radiator?

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baybuscamperkid prince of insufficient light, ruler of heck

4,316 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 24 Jan 2006, 9:22 am

#450186

i am wondering whether a pan similar to a beetle pan but running between the 2 chassis rails on a bay kombi up to the point where the rad begins would improve airflow?
something along these lines:

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baybuscamperkid prince of insufficient light, ruler of heck

4,316 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 24 Jan 2006, 9:28 am

#450187

or something like this for mine since my exhaust runs down the middle

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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk

2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 · 24 Jan 2006, 9:44 am

#450193

Send a message to VWType2-he had a Bay with a V6 and the radiator under there with a scoop.From memory,I don't think there were ever any overheating issues,just trouble trying to keep gears quiet in the box.I think he had plenty of pics.

helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body

7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 24 Jan 2006, 12:09 pm

#450234

With our bus we got 100 degrees on the guage on the 43 degree days. I suppose it would pop the cap at 110? It is a 15 psi cap.

It appears to work good and stay below 90 but on the freeway sits over 90 which means the fans are constantly on. The only improvement I could see with our setup would be bigger lovers as they are quite small as that was the maximum the louver punch could do.

It's not critical, just would be better. As for the flat floor bit, I really dont know.

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shaihulud Custom Title Time!

1,448 posts · joined Nov 2005 · 25 Jan 2006, 5:47 pm

#450659

I am only saying what I have been told by others. I have no experience with under car radiators.

I have been told that you need to fit baffles in the air scoop intakes otherwise sand, stones and other hard objects thrown up by the wheels will sand blast the radiator core and will rapidly hole it.

OZ Towdster Keen to finish some projects

1,921 posts · joined Dec 2003 · 25 Jan 2006, 8:47 pm

#450724

Bay bus camper Kid that looks remarkabley like Custom Offroads radiator design and yes it does work well at all temperatures in the centre of the car but is still in development and i feel that a tapered design works better as it compresses the air at the back of the scoop forcing it threw the rdiator as aposed to the louvred design where the air is not condenced any where and is possibly turning circles and not going threw the radiator as much as thought, any way just my theirios as a past sheetmetal worker in the air industry. Andrew

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helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body

7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 26 Jan 2006, 10:22 am

#450842

A Westwood wrote:Bay bus camper Kid that looks remarkabley like Custom Offroads radiator design

Pic of our bus with COR cooling solution. So yes you are right.

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RENNWAGEN Seriously Crusin Dubber

158 posts · joined Sep 2003 · 26 Jan 2006, 3:17 pm

#450903

Why not stick some ply or even stiff cardboard on there sticky tape some wool tufts to it find a safe place to drive and look/film it from another car . That should show whether it helps air flow or not. I would be interested to hear the results of a real test.

GeorgeL Officially Full-On Dubber

231 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 5 Feb 2006, 4:50 am

#453627

A Westwood wrote:Bay bus camper Kid that looks remarkabley like Custom Offroads radiator design and yes it does work well at all temperatures in the centre of the car but is still in development and i feel that a tapered design works better as it compresses the air at the back of the scoop forcing it threw the rdiator as aposed to the louvred design where the air is not condenced any where and is possibly turning circles and not going threw the radiator as much as thought, any way just my theirios as a past sheetmetal worker in the air industry. Andrew

Here are the issues I see:

1. Protect radiator
With an undercar radiator, this is just a matter of preventing bouncing stones and other road debris from coming in contact with the fragile bits of the radiator. A frame around the radiator and a suitable vented panel on the face of the radiator should be adequate. For the vented panel, I favor a stiff expanded mesh, though louvered sheet metal (like the COR setup) should also work. The only thing I have against louvered panels is that they might restrict airflow more than the expanded mesh.

2. Ensure good airflow while moving
The only solution to this is to hang a decent sized scoop into the airflow. The goal is to get enough airflow to allow cooling without resorting to the cooling fans. The scoop should also be screened to prevent entry of stones, birds, etc.

3. Prevent recirculation of cooling air
When stopped or at low speeds, the fan will eventually be called into play. If it is too easy for the air to circulate back around to the inlet side of the radiator cooling will be compromised. It's tough to keep things going the right way under the vehicle, since natural convection is working against you. I think the best solution is to simply box in the frame rails toward the front of the vehicle to provide an inlet scoop up front and guiding the air backwards and then down through the radiator mounted just forward of the rear crossmember. This puts the air outlet several feet away from the air inlet and gives fresh air a chance at getting into the inlet. Smoothness inside the duct isn't really a concern, as it just serves as a plenum chamber, hopefully pressurized a bit by ram air from the scoop at the front end of the inlet duct. The duct does need to be well-sealed, with attention to the gaps around the radiator, between the frame and the floor, etc., as the air will take the path of least resistance and we want that path to be through the radiator!

In light of these, the splittie bellypan might well provide the duct/plenum desired for a radiator setup. The bellypan wouldn't have to be as strong as the reinforcement bellypans, but the basic concept is fine. You'd still need to fashion a scoop at the front to provide some stagnation pressure for the duct.

George

[ Edited on Feb 04, 2006 by GeorgeL ]

[ Edited on Feb 04, 2006 by GeorgeL ]

richbaker78 Casual Dubber

38 posts · joined Oct 2005 · 7 Feb 2006, 9:56 pm

#454428

I've tried to mock up a diagram of what you suggest.

What do you think ?

Click here for Pic

GeorgeL Officially Full-On Dubber

231 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 8 Feb 2006, 8:48 am

#454496

richbaker78 wrote:I've tried to mock up a diagram of what you suggest.

What do you think ?

Click here for Pic

I don't think that the side scoops will make a lot of difference. The front scoop and duct would probably flow plenty of air.

You have provided adequate separation between intake and exhaust of heated air, which is the item usually missed in radiator installations.

George

vwtyp2 Son of Jim - Creator of Good

2,504 posts · joined Sep 2003 · 8 Feb 2006, 7:33 pm

#454629

some pics of mine.

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