Bought this home from Adelaide to put into something to have a bit of fun over 400 metres.It's an early Autocraft that I bought from Adam Debiasi, who went thru it for me to freshen everything up.Will bolt it up to a six rib Kombi box to start with,then change ratios later if needed.I will run the original Hilborn injection with Methanol in a light weight body.I have started to build a pan for it with the rear torsion bar tubes and yokes raised to get the pan and body a lot lower without sacrificing suspension movement.It didn't come with an oil tank,so will have to build something,but will have to do a bit of research to figure where to place all the fittings.
god damn do you need an adopted son?
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Yeah-might have to-mine"s moved to Brisbane for love and work,so don't see much of him any more.Caught up with him at the Clipsal last weekend though-the boy just loves a good car race.
damn sounds like the position is already filled right time for plan b
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Looks good.
What size is it, and what car are you going to put it in?
Can't have too much info!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
*Drools*
-Staggers.
STAGGERS AUTOMOTIVE - Heavy Vehicle Diesel Specialist
JB CUSTOMS & CLASSICS - Car Builders
2/53 Tradelink Drive, Browns Plains
Daaamn thats cool! Should be heaps of fun 👍
Nice Gary - can't wait to hear some more details! 👍
Cool... Another car for the strip!
Those heads are Stage 5 Autocraft and I first read about them in the March 1983 Hot VW's magazine.
They are very good heads and were the culmination of all the R&D that Autocraft did, prior
to the Pro-Series castings that were released later that year.
I can still remember drooling over that magazine for hours until it got so tattered that I had to
find another one at a swap meet.
Raising the tortion tube? That is a huge amount of work....you're really taking this seriously!
Good luck with the project, that will go very well with those heads.
OH! AND HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!
[ Edited on 30-3-2006 by dangerous ]
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
thanks dangerous-At this stage I will be building a Beetle ute body for it with a lift up fibreglass Stylside rear tray with glass F100 style rear guards.I will make it 100mm longer in the wheelbase as well lifting the rear up 2 inches.I have cut all the tubes and centre tunnel just forward of the gear lever mount from 1 pan and will trim it all up and weld it on top of another pan which I have just cut the horns from.Will cut the shock mounts from the main pan and gusset the 2 torsion tubes together and it will bring the gear lever up 2 and back 4 inches.You might get an idea from these.Got a bloke organised to put some bars in it and have picked up a glass front bonnet.Will buy another set of Aeros for the front.I have a couple of sets of clutch/brake pedal assemblies coming from the States to make it LH drive-something a little different.
Wow you don't do things in halves hey?! :o 👍
That mill is a good starting point. Check with ANDRA about lengthening the wheel base, you don't want to do yourself out of any possible classes that you can it in.
Spent a couple of hours this afternoon fitting the throttle bodies and some mods to the breathers etc. I cannot figure out any of the dry sump system.Has anybody had any experience with these motors? It has a 3 stage pump with 2 fittings at the bottom of the case(figure these must both be suction) and one up higher which must be pressure into the motor.There are 2 things which look like check valves( one in the lower pipe and one in the pressure line)
The upper check valve controls system pressure and is the main relief valve. It is normally returned to the sucton side of that stage with a loop,
which I can see is in place in the first photos.
The other one on the scavenge side is...I dont know...may be a screen to stop debri, or a flapper valve to stop tank drain back into the engine,
if the engine sits....but pull it off to check that it is clean anyway.
Both of the scavenge stages go to your tank, and then the pressure stage will draw the oil from this tank, hopefully at a point in the tank that has no air bubbles in the oil.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Thanks Dave-just finished pulling all the pipe work off and checking everything and replaced all the 'O' rings.Figured it all out-just like you said.Both the lower ones are suction,and the big barrel thing is just a screen-seems like a bit of overkill.The other suction one also has a screen on it-about 150mm long and 15mm diameter and it seems to go into a cavity that is separate from the bottom of the case.The main relief has a shitty set up sealing at the 'O' ring,so I will machine a small relief to capture the ring better.When it relieves it just pumps back into the front pump suction.The rear one is the largest pump and it does the engine pressure feed.Will run it out thru a filter then back into the motor.Shouldn't need an oil cooler for the short runs it will get.Still can't figure how the tank will not drain back into the case when not running.
The tank will drain back into the engine, and how fast depends on the oil pump gears.
Some fit a tap but that can spell disaster if forgotten.
I just set the tank level so that when things even out, the level in the engine is below the barrels.
Once the engine is re-fired, the scavenges will take care of the engine oil level.
This may take an adjustable (in height) tank mount to fine tune.
I like to use about 7 litres of volume but in theory 5 plus filter volume should be enough.
Either way, do lots of homework.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Yes on to it-thanks for the input.Have just ordered the 2 hoops and enough tube for the roll cage-will be ready early next week-will try to run the 2 that go to the rear right back to the trans yokes.Will have to pull out the digit now to get the body cut in half and the pan ready for it to be welded in.
[ Edited on 4-4-2006 by nbturbo ]
ndturbo, looks like you have a lot of fun to come.... is there any chance you could make this a regular update so we can all check out the progress.... by the way what were the cylinder and bore sizes?
Yes I hope so.Bore is 96.5 and 86 stroke-2516cc.Will try to keep story up to date.Picked up some exhaust flanges and 180 degree bends in inch and 5/8 to build an exhaust for it.Will have do some research what will work best on it.
Started on the exhaust-decided to build it on top of the motor because the oil pumps hang out the back too far,which would make it hang out the back too far as well.Don't know how this will work,but will have it all equal lengths-will do the last bit of the tail pipe once it's all set up in the car.
mmmm, short primary lengths...that's the go.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
and 4-2-1 as well! apparently thats the current trend with nascar and some prostockers as it gives more tunable sections?
testing 1 2 3...
Yes I noticed the 4-2-1 on some of the latest pro-stock cars.
Cetainly hasn't slowed them down at all, and for the volksies,
it makes the job of making an exhaust much easyer.
When I did the sums for my combo, it wanted about 28 to 30" primary length,
but when you measure fom the exhaust valve, this is hard to achieve
without going to an "over the top" design.
By the way, in the end I got slack and just extended an off the shelf system
to clear the pump, and it is way too long, thus reducing the RPM
at which peak torque occurs, and therefore peak horsepower RPM also.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Yes,I have seen this setup on a few and it's certainly a lot easier to build and keep everything uniform.Would have liked to have the 2&1/4inch pipes a little longer B4 they join at the 3 inch collector,but again it would hang out the back too far.I think this should work OK.
Just finished the exhaust.Made in 3 sections with 2 small pipes for the 2 rear cylinders and all the rest is in 1 piece.The primary pipes are 38mm ID,same size as the ports and I opened the flanges up for the pipe to slip inside,then blended out each one to get rid of the shoulder of the pipe.Won't worry about getting any coating done until I am happy with how it works.Just waiting on the rest of the parts for the injection system,get an oil tank and it will be all go.
What is the latest?
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Whats with the door off your yellow oval in the background?
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
Just got home from Adelaide with some stuff for both cars-got all the rollcage hoops and bends for the Drag project-the rebuilt auto for the Oval-another pair of stripped doors for the Oval.The doors leaning against the wall are originals with vent windows,but the passenger one doesn't fit into the door opening anymore?????????.Got another pair(but have been modified for one piece windows) and have trial fitted and done the neccessary bending.Had them stripped and are in excellent condition as well-a couple of pin holes along the bottom of one.Will get them in for a coat of yellow soon.Can fit the trans and motor to my Oval and try to get it finished B4 I concentrate on the Drag car.Need the Oval to tow the Drag car around.I have made the oil tank for the Autocraft motor and have got all the fuel system, bar the pump.Still tracking it down.
My L.H. drive pedals,dual circuit M/cylinders and pitman arms turned up yesterday.Got 2 of everything-just in case.Can't wait to get stuck into building the car.
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[ Edited on 10-6-2006 by nbturbo ]
