Dude your idea of junka and mine must be slightly different....... wish I had your junk pile !!!!
Love it, fantastic - and great idea about the surge tank inside the original volksy tank. Did you have to do much prep to the tank to safely cut and weld it ? (ie to get rid of old petrol fumes that might be flammable ?)
Adolph wrote:Very nice job. Will the bonnet close with the NOS bottle in that position?
I think I have just stolen some ideas 😎
Hermann
I will find out if I have to shorten the front bracket to lower the bottle down a bit.
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nick@vollkommenart.com
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Cool work dude.
.
1964_Notch wrote:And this is a budget build up ! Any issues welding the tank ? I remember hearing that even after a thorough clean there can still be traces of fuel. Can you post better pics of where the surge tank sides meet the bottom of the tank please ?
The tank mods is just time wasting and the POR 15 kit is $70.
It is true that even after a thorough clean you can still loose all your knuckle hair. The most important thing is to burn the vapours out properly before you start but make sure your not building a bomb because it is still a small container. A mate of mine does gas conversions a cuts the tanks up in vans and things like that so he showed me the way. If your not sure don't try it because you can damage your tank or even yourself.
I don't have any better pics of the bottom but it does have small holes at the bottom of the side plates so the fuel level is even, but slows in sloshing away from the pick up.
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nick@vollkommenart.com
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Hi Nick,
Now I know where the "art" comes from in Vollkommen Art.
I am so jealous of your fab skills.
What are you using to weld with?...as far as wire I mean, it is tig no?
Regards DB.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Doug,
I have done the internal surge tank many times and many different ways because almost every car I do is either e.f.i or a tuff carbied car that needs good pick fuel up.
I found that it is much neater than an external tank,lines,pumps and all that crap. Plus in a bug space is an issue, so many times we need to either loose the spare or run the spare on the tank.
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nick@vollkommenart.com
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dangerous wrote:Hi Nick,
Now I know where the "art" comes from in Vollkommen Art.
I am so jealous of your fab skills.
What are you using to weld with?...as far as wire I mean, it is tig no?
Regards DB.
I have an Esab tig and an Esab mig.
.6 wire in the mig and just mild steel rod for the tig.
I love the finish of the tig but it takes soooooo long and with a project tike this I am mainly using the mig.
Dave I can't believe your saying that shit, I would much rather know how to machine things and mill things to the thou, RESPECT!!!!
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nick@vollkommenart.com
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I still need help guys,
What engine combo?
Asp??
turbo??
Nos??
Ideas?
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nick@vollkommenart.com
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Large capacity n/a old skool (with a little tickle gas)
Reub
I agree with Reub, large type 1 based, big big big IDA's (or equiv)......
Would help if we knew what was in your junk pile.....
I mean carbed sounds easier to most, but can still take just as long to tune as EFI, but EFI takes longer to install......
Personally I'd love to see a little roots style blower and big f&*k off 4 bbl on it..... but thats probably not really your style from what I understand !! 🙂
seems to me that if you go tall them turboes hangin round, the least you can do is wack one on. be silly not to EFI it then if you have a computer too. carbies are ok, but if the newer stuff is free and available to you, why not use it?
engine size below 2l and let the turbo do the work for you. just use the nitrous to get it up on boost and intercool it.
Boostn wrote:I still need help guys,
What engine combo?
Asp??
turbo??
Nos??
Ideas?
I'd like to see one of your "bad Ass" turbo's with the stock wheels and just a little lower!
Then you can just smoke those things down the Black top! :thumb
...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
ratted
how 'bout a destroked crank, but still with 90.5mm......... some mega heads, efi turbo blah blah.......somethin still 1300cc, but revs to oblivion with the aid of nitrous.
I would love to do that, give a 1300 a 200hp hit of gas!!!!!!!!!!!
The only problem is those pistons are junk. But would be funny!
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nick@vollkommenart.com
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Doug Sweetman wrote:I agree with Reub, large type 1 based, big big big IDA's (or equiv)......
Would help if we knew what was in your junk pile.....
I mean carbed sounds easier to most, but can still take just as long to tune as EFI, but EFI takes longer to install......
Personally I'd love to see a little roots style blower and big f&*k off 4 bbl on it..... but thats probably not really your style from what I understand !! 🙂
I do not have any IDA's and you are correct about tuning carbies. I much prefer to tune e.f.i. The wiring is easy I have done heaps of Microtechs and found the easiest way is to make my own loom seeing as is for a VW and not a usual car. I am trying to stay away from turbo charging this one because it always get out of control and I find myself doing way too much work on bracing and gearboxes to handle the grunt. Remembering I want to keep it simple.
I could use my brothers 2632cc T4 with twin 45mm perfection injection throttle bodies, 244@50 and 50x40 ported heads but I need to make an exhaust system for it because he has it in a T3. It has been sitting around for about 7 years so he won't mind. The only problem is that I hate those exhaust ports and need to spend money on fresh valve springs and bends for the exhaust.
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The other option is a new 2387cc with ported 044s,Fk 10, 5.7'' h beam rods, pauter 1.4.1 rollers, cb thinline sump, mallory dissy and a comp of 9.8.1.The engine is complete less exhaust and throttle bodies, so I still need to spend money on it.
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The final engine I have sitting around is a complete 2233cc t4 60mm wheel , pauter 1.5.1 rollers, 5.6 h beam rods, street comp heads 46x42 valves(ported) draw through with a single throttle body and two staged 1700cc injectors.This engine drove very well and made 220 kw @ the wheels on 15psi on pump gas. The beauty of this engine is that you don't need an intercooler because it's draw through. Simple!
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down on the ground with CB drop spinles, late discs and posche 4.5 blades.(just for the look)
I love the roof racks!
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nick@vollkommenart.com
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Jesus I'd love to see you work. You get stuff done so bloody fast!
Is it true you guys never sleep?
hehehe
I vote for either the 2632 - just for pure cubic capcity, or my #1 vote would be the 2233 turbo - with the 1.5 rollers and the heads you have on it, I'm not surprised it makes such big big numbers......
What bore and stroke on the 2233?..and the 2632 type 4 too please.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
92 x 84 and 105 x 76??
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
nice work giving me some inspiration for my bug 🙂
i say a screaming NA engine that will scare rice from here to japan :P
[ Edited on 17/8/2006 by GoLfMan ]
firebreathing 4 potter...
I feel sorry for you guys with all this junk and leftovers clogging up your shed.
Tell you what, how about I give you a case of beer and take some of this stuff out to the tip for you. Then you can make space for other toys.
I won't even charge you for the tip fees......
I'm thinking 2233 turbo for now.
I will think more about it later but now I will get stuck into the rear end and brace it all up without putting a cage into it.
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vwfastback wrote:I feel sorry for you guys with all this junk and leftovers clogging up your shed.
Tell you what, how about I give you a case of beer and take some of this stuff out to the tip for you. Then you can make space for other toys.
I won't even charge you for the tip fees......
:cry
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Boostn wrote:I'm thinking 2233 turbo for now.
I will think more about it later but now I will get stuck into the rear end and brace it all up without putting a cage into it.
geez! I almost feel sorry for this little car....almost
🤘the car is giving it's life for a greater good. respect.
Some pics of the rear end taking shape
I used square tubing because round is always associated with race cars. So no round pipe or dzus fasteners, just square tube, bolts and nutserts. Plus I'm lazy and square is easier to work with.
The engine and gearbox mounts have been raised up 1.5''
This because I run swing axle gearboxes and the axles must be straight on launch.So if you want to lower the car, this is how you do it. If you raise the engine up any more, you must raise the torsion housing up too so you retain the rear end geometry.
This is my other 1967 1300 Deluxe that has been raised 3'' and tubbed 3''. This also requires to buy narrowed axles.
[ Edited on 19/8/2006 by Boostn ]
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