I have started refurbishment of a 67 bug.. (East Sydney)
The list of things I need advice on is growing.. Here goes..
I intend to do a body off restoration.. I have replacement doors, guards, engine lid.. Should I refit the body parts BEFORE I take the body off the pan? I am just worried that the shell will flex off the pan and fitting them will be a drama..
Once I have the shell off.. should I send it to a blaster/stripper.. Should the body parts be on or off the shell?
The vehicle is a 6v.. I want/need to rewire the whole car.. Where should I take it?
I guess the g/box is the the stock box.. I am fitting a 1916. Any problems? Should I upgrade g/box?
The sequence I intend to do the work is as follows.. Any tips?
Remove engine
Strip
Remove old panel parts and fit donor parts
Body off pan
Send shell to paint stripper
Remove front beam and send for disc conversion
Send bumpers for re-chroming
Clean, repair, pan and running gear. Replace all worn parts (bump stops, seals, shocks etc)
Use POR15 or Silver Bullet to coat pan?
Replace engine (1916) onto pan
Replace front beam
Fit Britax roof onto shell
Cut/repair rust from shell and paint
Refit painted shell onto pan
Refit panel parts with new rubbers
Refit windows
Rewire
Retrim interior
Fit brightware, electrics (sound system)
The list is endless.. I really appreciate some advice from members that have completed a high quality body off resto..
The vehicle is for my son and I would like to deliver finished in mid December.. The finished product will be British racing green, tan leather interior, old school brightware (towel rail bumpers, chorme strips etc) with radar wheels.
As I have limited time, I will be only doing the stripping and re-assembly myself.. All other work I will outsource so trades/tips contacts would be great..
Thanks Rob
[ Edited on 30-9-06 by StenGuns ]
Hmmmmm................you forgot to paint it before you put it back together
🙄
This site might be of some passing interest
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/1367/beetle.htmlFutue te ipsum!!!
Thanks.. I checked the site..
I have a bunch of procedure related issues to figure out.. eg; I may have to repair heater channels and thought that I would have to take the body off first.. however I've been told to repair "on the pan" otherwise I would never get the fit right.. I can't see how to repair without removing the shell though..
Then there's things like what to do first.. I guess you would do the interior trim before you refit the glass etc..
Would be great to get my hands on a book or site that has the step by step procedure..
I also want to refer to dasdubbers original resto but searched for it and can't locate.. Not sure what early procedures he mentioned though..
Do a search for Che Castro and Black Betty
Jon did (well .... is 😏) a body off.
He did the heater channels. Welded a pip if 50mm tube in to hold every thing square and did them. Doors shut like a bought one when finished.
MUCH easier than body on
Futue te ipsum!!!
Futue te ipsum!!!
StenGuns wrote:I also want to refer to dasdubbers original resto but searched for it and can't locate.. Not sure what early procedures he mentioned though..
Mate, go to this site as it has all photos I took of the restoration and has them in a chronological order within each sub album.
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album95
I will reply to your questions shortly.
Cheers
Alan
Should I refit the body parts BEFORE I take the body off the pan? I am just worried that the shell will flex off the pan and fitting them will be a drama..
I personally took all body parts off first (doors, bonnet, decklid, guards etc) - much lighter that way two people could lift it off. I had no flexing issues but my heater channels were okay.
Once I have the shell off.. should I send it to a blaster/stripper.. Should the body parts be on or off the shell?
Again I can only comment on my experience but next time around I will strip the large flat panels (doors, roof, quarters etc) by hand either with paint stripper or strip discs on angle grinder. Then off to the blasters to get all the awkward spots that are less susceptible to warping. Either that or go to an experienced blaster who does a lot of cars and whom you can possibly get recommendations from others who have used them. In regards to parts on or off the shell - definitely off in my opinion.
The vehicle is a 6v.. I want/need to rewire the whole car.. Where should I take it?
Not sure where to take it - I rewired my ragtop from scratch but it is time consuming - since time is your limiting factor, finding a suitable autoelectrician would be essential. I'd suggest maybe contacting local hot rod clubs to see if they can lead you to the right person (if someone from AVD can't help with a recommendation) - generally hot rod guys are pretty particular with not only function, but also appearance.
I guess the g/box is the the stock box.. I am fitting a 1916. Any problems? Should I upgrade g/box?
Providing the bellhousing doesn't need to be clearanced for the larger flywheel (ring-gear teeth may interfere with inner bellhousing), should be no dramas. However, it really depends on how hard you push it. It is easier to upgrade whilst everything is out (engine etc) but depends on how much money you want to invest.
The sequence I intend to do the work is as follows.. Any tips?
I see no problems with your plan of attack, definitely trial fit the donor panels before you send it off for stripping and body work. Unfortunately everything takes longer than you think and costs more than you think - December will be a hard task but definitely achievable providing the tradesmen/women you utilise will be able to stick to time lines (ie. no unexpected nasty surprises). Best of luck, if you have any more specific questions I am happy to try and help out.
Cheers, Alan
[ Edited on 17-9-2006 by Dasdubber ]
Sorry about the bold type - bit hard to read in hindsight.
you doing discs???
good idea with a 1916
Futue te ipsum!!!
Alan.. Sensational feedback.. thanks.. I'll be back with questions
Bizaarre.. disc conversion to front beam.. I was leaving the rear stock though..
I need advice on the 6v to 12v electrics.. eg; Can I fit a later wiper assembly or do I run a resistor.. Preferably want a later wiper (two speed).. I hazard that the only issue may be the spacing/distance between the stem holes
I haven't done a two speed conversion yet but always thought of it. If you do keep the stock 6V wipers, you can either replace the armature with a 12V one (available from classicveedub and other places I'm sure)....or do the most simple fix and run two ballast resistors in line (I used 1.6ohm) - this returns the speed back to a normal pace. Although on my brother in laws ghia we ran two resistors and it slowed it down too much so we just used one and all was sweet.
Ive done a few body off restos over the years and havent had any probs with distortion but heater channels were good
Prob get the car Paint stripped on the flat panels to avoid warping then get the heavy rust areas like lower door hinge blasted
get a wiper from a 68 model and file out the mount holes to make it fit also move the mount bracket
give me call if you want to discuss
Thanks.. I can't wait to attack again this weekend (or sooner if work allows)
Alan.. I like the idea of a removable rear apron.. Is it just a matter of picking the appropriate place to cut and then fashion some rightangle brackets with fasteners (nut/bolt).. My 71 Type 2 collection all have removeable aprons and it is so much easier.. Do you have close up shots of your setup?
StenGuns wrote:Alan.. I like the idea of a removable rear apron.. Is it just a matter of picking the appropriate place to cut and then fashion some rightangle brackets with fasteners (nut/bolt).. My 71 Type 2 collection all have removeable aprons and it is so much easier.. Do you have close up shots of your setup?
This page has all the details of my setup:
http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/album146
Eg. the brackets:
Also check out Nath's thread in members rides ("TINKDF and project oval golde....") on about page 9:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=6283&page=9
It is a worthwhile modification - make engine removal/installation so much easier!
Exactly half of my T2 collection.. (my retirement pastime)
I plan to start on this 71 dual door van as soon as the bug is happening..
Two problem rust areas
1st one is the washer reservoir, brake fluid tray.. rusted out and will need to be cut and replaced..
[ Edited on 18-9-06 by StenGuns ]
Problem two is the rust coming through at the bottom of the qtr panel (only showing on one side).. The doors have rust too but I have good straight donor ones
Stripped the engine out, the electrics, fuel tank and body parts in the first weekend.. next weekend I will strip the interior and take the body off the pan.. I am nervous about those fricken heater channels
Hi StenGuns,
I have read in a few books and mags that they weld in a brace between the lower door frame so when the heater channel is removed the distances etc remain the same. then all is needed is to fit up the new channel and then remove the brace. I think that this also helps from warping of the weld when fitting the new channels.
I didn't have to replace my channels either so I didn't need to use this method, but I hope this gives you some ideas.
Matt.
Thanks..
I'm going to get the body off and have a think.. Could very well brace the sections to stop any flexing.. lets hope I don't have to rip the channels out..
Thanks for all the feedback people.. AVD at its best!!
Hey, with regards to stripping the paint.. whats to stop me spraying some heavy duty stripper all over it and then hitting with a gurney? OK thats using water but with the body off and cleared drain holes etc.. Leave it standing out in the Sydney weather (30c+) with a bit of breeze should take care of residue moisture.. Dumb Idea?
the best thing is to strip and repair the area as you go so you don,t get lost in the project.
Well, with a fortunate visit by VW54, I am starting on stage 2 this weekend.. A quick look around the car from Dave and it appears nowhere near necessary to take the body off.. Two small sections for repair, an all over paint strip and clean with maybe a sandblast of two sections.
good luck man! Sounds like your on a roll already..
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
Yep it should clean up good.... more will be revealed when the paint comes off
StenGuns wrote:Bizaarre.. disc conversion to front beam.. I was leaving the rear stock though..
I need advice on the 6v to 12v electrics.. eg; Can I fit a later wiper assembly or do I run a resistor.. Preferably want a later wiper (two speed).. I hazard that the only issue may be the spacing/distance between the stem holes
stenguns, i'm not sure of what front discs you will be using but i had shermans conversion's discs with stock rears on my 63 and found that the brake balance was way too far foward, T3 rear brakes would probably have sorted this but i pulled the car off the road before i sourced some.
i did a 2 speed conversion on my 63.
the wiper unit was out of a 6V car (it was in the shed no idea of what year), i pulled the motor out of a 68-70 mechinism and fitted it onto the earlier wiper unit. from memory it was a straight swap.
i used a later (68/70?) switch. to fit it into the dash and look correct i got the the origional 68 on screw in piece that holds the switch into the dash and got it tapped to accept a 6V gauge screw in piece.
i then filed the lip off the 68 piece and screwed/ loctited it into the switch. the switch can then be mounted into the dash like an early one.
for the knob, i just temporarly bodged it by filling the threads of a 6V knob with Zap-a-Gap (gap filling superglue) and screwing it on. this actually worked so well i never bothered working out a way to do it "properly".
i hope this makes sense.
henry.
[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by whatnow ]
Good advice.. thanks
whatnow wrote:stenguns, i'm not sure of what front discs you will be using but i had shermans conversion's discs with stock rears on my 63 and found that the brake balance was way too far foward, T3 rear brakes would probably have sorted this but i pulled the car off the road before i sourced some.
i did a 2 speed conversion on my 63.
the wiper unit was out of a 6V car (it was in the shed no idea of what year), i pulled the motor out of a 68-70 mechinism and fitted it onto the earlier wiper unit. from memory it was a straight swap.
i used a later (68/70?) switch. to fit it into the dash and look correct i got the the origional 68 on screw in piece that holds the switch into the dash and got it tapped to accept a 6V gauge screw in piece.
i then filed the lip off the 68 piece and screwed/ loctited it into the switch. the switch can then be mounted into the dash like an early one.
for the knob, i just temporarly bodged it by filling the threads of a 6V knob with Zap-a-Gap (gap filling superglue) and screwing it on. this actually worked so well i never bothered working out a way to do it "properly".
i hope this makes sense.
henry.
[ Edited on 23-9-2006 by whatnow ]
Right.. The shell was stripped last night and covered in paint stripper.. I have loaned a 20HP water blaster that will take your foot off.. Today I will blast the shell and see how she comes up.. I'll post pictures tonight..
