Boof , I would like a Trade price 🙂 on the sumps please
I dont know were I have been looking but this is the fist I have seen of this post !!
? time
Gear box please tell us more ( we all need them )
The sway bar for the rear I have been using the old HR holden units .
your using 29mm torsion bars ? they are ?? good / no good ??
info please
I am going to the shed to do some more now !
seagull
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
ahhh i see,
i thought you were simply ignoring this one Neil😁
gearbox- i have been throwing 2L hints at you for months now- remember-berg five links, berg intermediate housing??
228mm pressure plate and 4 puck clutch-STILL SLIPS!!- but slicks and very tall first need to be taken into account. soon will run kennedy 228mm stage 3 pressure plate.
rear torsions (sway a way)carry the extra weight well. Ruby (above) runs them successfully too.
always remember WHITELINE BARS- have your bars stay stiffer longer!!!😂 KONI/bilstein-lifetime shocks!-rebuildable and adjustable!!
times????? very bloody quick!!!! looks like I'm going to make it to Warrick after all, so real times to come!!! much quicker than the beetle in my avatar -it ran 13 seconds flat.(N/A 2L).....so 11 second quaters would be expected.
[ Edited on 19-9-06 by dumone ]
more info here Neil.....
http://www.phpbbserver.com/subuguforum/viewtopic.php?t=8&sid=33a553ace20c62354e9b8041cf78d13e&mforum=subuguforum
i believe you were looking for these as well.....
http://www.kennedyeng.com/volks_pp.htm
send em an email, they got back to me within 48 hours with price and freight ready to go.
[ Edited on 18-9-06 by dumone ]
I did finally get some Whitelines. I also got a bunch of other stuff that was suggested by Jeff and yourself.
But before i could install it all, i managed to crack both of the trany horns on the subframe and snap 2 of the bolts in half somehow.... So in the meantime, its parked waiting for a new subframe with a bunch of goodies.
Also, since i bought another car for the meantime (e34 bmw 5 speed), i can work on some of the bigger tasks i wanted to do to it that i wasnt able to do before because it was my daily.
You wouldnt happen to have any below pics showing the subframe would ya?
-Ryan
Cheers , Humty whats going on you did not tell me about this , it passed me by !
I have a plane for that ### housing I can tell you .Pauls has a box about to land then it is having babies .
11 seconds , I about to pass out can not wate for my L cheapo peice of shit RS turbo motor to blow some of these fellas away .
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
I need to know about the gear box , as my G50 has turned to shit to date .
But I have landed more WRX motors
Simon Have I got a deal for you ( ! )
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
bo moo hoo ha ha haaaaaaaaa!!
those rex motors may cost $66.66, but the bullet proof gear boxes to match are worth the same as a hypo air cooled motor....................hhmmmm😉
the worlds best gears are made here in Australia and available in any size you want IVAN ALBINS.
the motor pictured is a wrx motor, not RS, with the biggest turbo able to be bolted to standard manifold.(bigger than STI).
close ratios are not need for these motors, this baby has no problems pushing any of the gears and even with the spacings as big as they are, still falls back into boost each change.
strength is what you should be after, not close ratios
ZF limo diff and moly pinion nut are all you need to add
Neil, desert moose was selling a built 2l box, it may have seemed expensive, but with all the gear inside, represented great value.
[ Edited on 19-9-06 by dumone ]
albins are crazy expensive here in the states.
yeah albins arent the cheapest here but worth the quality im told.
you are lucky and have nice cheap engine components though ruby red
1916 wrote:you are lucky and have nice cheap engine components though ruby red
ey ey to that. with such a big market, the US get's very good prices on parts.
yea, cheap, but you get what you pay for most of the time. vw motors are still super expensive to build up in the US with quality parts that actually fit. haha
one of the reasons i went the suby route.
but, it is nice having a vdub parts shop down the street.
yeah..now...think of the price of good parts for a vw engine. add international freight plus 10% gst and 15% parts tax...thats what WE gotta do 🙁
[ Edited on 19-9-2006 by 1916 ]
"what kinda creator would make a race of people
and make em act a certain way or else He deems 'em evil?
HOW can You give a living being the freedom to breathe
and then lead em into a sea of decievers who greet em, see!"
how its held in place.........
i will try to explain what each of those alloy bars purpose is.......
they all run up to the parcel rack (that has been seam welded all the way round the edges), which is sandwhiched between two heavy alluminium plates.
the top plate is tied into the cro molly cage...
the bar to the far left and the one just visible at the rear right side of the engine bay are boith tied to the top of the gear box (kombi mounting point), & practically run in a vertical position to stop upward movement and twisting of the gearbox/engine
(you can see this support bar underneath the intercooler in the first shot above)
[ Edited on 19-9-06 by dumone ]
the front of the gearbox is also held with another aluminium plate between the top of the intermediate housing and the body of the car.......
the plate underneath the fuel reg has two purposes.
1 is to hold against vertical/lifting movement at the rear of the engine
it is bolted to the motor, next to the alternator,like so....
2nd job is at the botom of the plate, there are also two more alloy rods. one runs in either direction to stop sideways loads at the rear of the engine. they are mounted to the body near the rear bumper mounts
there is also one bar that runs directly between the two bumper points- works like a strut brace to prevent both stretching and collapsing of the body
the radiator you can see there is for the intercooler only, and is pumped via a stand alone electric water pump, it has its own little thermo too. liberty water to air intercooler.
you can see a T-piece into the main radiator line- this is the return for the water from the turbo. it previously ran to the coolant resivoir-strangely enough, they were melting:thumb
[ Edited on 19-9-06 by dumone ]
[ Edited on 19-9-06 by dumone ]
the subframe utilizes the factory reinforced parts of the body. being late model type 3, the rear engine support mounts and shock tower mounting points is where the strength is- no rubber mounts tho.
the cradle ties into the bottom of the gearbox/engine solid too...just see in the bottom left of photo. when you run a kombi box, you also get the benefit of kombi C.V joints and axles:kiss
rubber mounts of subframe are long gone.....
can you say "adjustable"????? rear swaybars, at 26mm, are bigger than most peoples torsion bars🤪
[ Edited on 19-9-06 by dumone ]
that thing would be STIFF STIFF STIFF..in a very good way.
i imagine its quite the track animal ey dumone?
"what kinda creator would make a race of people
and make em act a certain way or else He deems 'em evil?
HOW can You give a living being the freedom to breathe
and then lead em into a sea of decievers who greet em, see!"
it's bloody scary the first time!!!!!
i was asked what revs i was changing at when i got back ..............................."dunno!!!"
"well did you see the shift light?"............
"no, didn't look, what colour is it???.........everything is coming so fast, my eyes are glued wide open, focusing straight ahead!!!!"
its a pity i took all these piccies early today.
we had towed it a couple of 100 km to go racing last weekend- in the pouring rain. needless to say, it was postponed, but the engine got saturated.
when we started it, it had a miss fire, and needed to come up to full temp, which won't happen at idle.....
what to do???? we don't have a race track, the local country road would be awsome, but we both need our licencses..............that paddock looks fairly smooth, there are no cows near it..............swshhhh, whistle brrmmmm, the rooster tails looked classic!!!........and even tho we stayed in first, the ground felt a lot rougher at 80km/h that split second after the throttle was opened, BIG diagonal drifts thanx to the limo difff😏
[ Edited on 19-9-06 by dumone ]
I have just taken I guy for a spin in my liberty Rs turbo to give him some ideas as to the power of a subaru turbo motor .My car is 4x4
from this he is now looking for VW based car to do a conversion
another to the other side
May the force be with you :vader
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
Dumone! thank you for all these detailed pictures. They are giving me a much bigger and better picture of what needs to be done. Wow. So much bracing!! i guess with 29psi, that thing needs it.
Hmm, i might try and build up off of a IRS subframe this time instead of converting a swingaxle one. It leaves more room for CV's. I bet those alloy rods work 100x better than an old fashioned traction bar too.
Theres so much i still need to do, it always seems like car projects are never ending.
When did Jeff build this thing?
-Ryan
mate, build up off the swing axle subframe again-MUCH BETTER.
the tops of the frame horns can be flattened to allow for the c.v joints
bracing the frame horns up to the body will achieve wonders
if we had the choice, ours would have been done that way, it was purchased roughed up before it was extensively changed to what it is now.
will get some front end detail pics soon
I think most will agree the swinger subframe is a better starting point. You can dimple the forks for cv clearance. I have seen the forks seam welded for increased strength. If there is room you could triangulate the top shock mounts to the rear ' box mounts like the German Look beetle guys do. If you combined all that with the hell notch mods I am sure it would be plenty strong enough.
I just picked up a swinger subframe (thanks Toby) and am considering my options. Dumone, keep the photos coming as they are a great reference.
[ Edited on 21-9-06 by 1964_Notch ]
dumone wrote:we had towed it a couple of 100 km to go racing last weekend- in the pouring rain. needless to say, it was postponed, but the engine got saturated.
when we started it, it had a miss fire, and needed to come up to full temp, which won't happen at idle.....
what to do???? we don't have a race track, the local country road would be awsome, but we both need our licencses..............that paddock looks fairly smooth, there are no cows near it..............swshhhh, whistle brrmmmm, the rooster tails looked classic!!!........and even tho we stayed in first, the ground felt a lot rougher at 80km/h that split second after the throttle was opened, BIG diagonal drifts thanx to the limo difff😏
Lol, you gave me a laugh. pity the poor farmer that had to come out and find that. Any chance you could attach a plough to the back?
😀yeah the farmer was the one doing it, the farmers wife is the one to watch out for-don't tell her, we didn't:kiss
rear discs....now that's what you call a spacer!
flexi brake lines are all chrome braided
[ Edited on 17-10-06 by dumone ]
under the bonnet sits the second fuel pump, surge pot and at the rear, the vent/breather..... oh and the radiator and thermo fan
underneath the tank is the first fuel pump...
the steering is equipped with a quick steer block. one turn of the steering wheel takes it from one lock to the other
adjustable coil over konis
the front wheel spacers are rather large too. adjustable sway bar measures 24mm and attaches to the upper trailing arm. front discs are type 3 with matching calipers.
[ Edited on 17-10-06 by dumone ]
Couple of dum questions.
Where do i get spacers like that????
How you put the coil overs on???
Can i leave my engine & box rubber mounted with no bracing, just 2 engine mounts and only the mounts at the front on my gear box (no horns)?
my 3 has the suby engine for years with out anything falling off or breaking but no turbo. now its turbo but not in yet.
1972 Type 3 Fast back, RS Turbo 2ltr, VF34/P20,
3" Exhaust, WAIC, Wolf 3D, Sard 540cc's, Swirl pot and VL Fuel pump, Apexi CAI, Custom VW 4spd with straight cut albins 3.87 R&P, stock brakes
Engine needs to come out!
well it's been a while, but i've finally got down the "must do" list far enough to begin repairing the race car......
last run was at Warrick '06 with dissapointing results because of lack of traction and then a fried clutch via attempting to do burnouts with 10 inch slicks strapped on the back 🤪...........(that was the call from the boss when i rang him informing him of the dissapointing traction and cosequent ET's)........
the 228mm, 4 puc clutch had lasted 4 years, but always suffered from slip due to the combination of a tall first gear, shirtloads of grip , but standard kombi pressure plate.....i'm sure it must be the only weak link left in there❗.......CURE?..........replace it with the biggest K.E.P pressure plate we could get and a new 4 pucka!
maybe it's taken the most part of 18 months to look this monster in the eye and work out where to start, but finally i have...............if man put it in there, man can get it out!
for all who complain about and delay pulling their aircooled motors from their cars (myself included).............try and get your head around this...............layers and layers and LAYERS!!!! of "must removes"..........
i can tell you there is H20 lines (separate intercooler and radiator circuits), vacumn hoses a plenty, fuel lines...........
BUT..........my personal faviourites are ELECTRICAL connectors..............injectors, sensors, solinoids they're everywhere 🥲!
there are several items that can keep the motivation up though.............anything to do with BOOST❗..........intake hoses, intercoolers, haltech controlled solenoids,
a couple of hours later, it looked like i had gone no where, but most of the brackets and support bars were gone............was feeling quite frustrated...........the amount of heat generated by 29 pounds boost meant that most of the hoses (water and intake) had come close to melting themselves fused forever (loctite sealent on everything compounds this problem too).........but hey, when your doing 260km/h through Bathursts chase, things not falling off is high on the priority list!!😎
a while later, i had green coolant everywhere (even some in the catch tray😂).........the water/air intercooler , it's pump and radiator were out............electrical connections (as a guess at least 20) dissconnected and labelled CAREFULLY!...........main engine coolant pipes removed and intake pipes removed from both sides of the turbo (remember me mentioning HEAT!😬)
just the exhaust and fuel lines to go...........a nice way to kill off 6 or so hours!.................but hey, whos complaining, after bug-in, i'm, itching for some more track time and plan to do as much as possible before the...
VW SPECTACULAR..........LAP DASH AUGUST 2008 !!!!!
..hee heeee..now that's a plug!!!!...........and your car will need to be able to do SESSIONS not just one lap😎.............cheap too!.......yeah baby!
As they all say....VIDEO? 😂 👍
Reub
Maybe buy yerself three or four trailer plugs/sockets and make a OE-style 'harness' when you put it back together
Pay your debts, CxxT
You just need a dose of "harden up princess" 😁
Nice biscuit tin. 🙂
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
