OK..
Point One - Don't waste stripper by applying it the night before.. The brand I'm using goes "off" after 15 minutes and that is the optimum time to remove the paint.. Any longer and it starts to cure again..
Point Two - If there are many layers of paint, don't try and remove them all on the first application.. It is better to work on one panel, applying, stripping, applying stripping, etc as you work down through the layers.. Too much time is wasted trying to get to bare metal on the 1st "pass".
Point Three.. Using the water jet, reveals pristine metal underneath.. It is still the dull "pressed" look as it was 40+ years ago.. Scrapping or sanding during the process runs the chance of "scoring" the metal..
Point Four - The blaster is an effective way to remove paint BUT it is a long bloody job.. The final result in these photos took 4 hours to get there.. I can now do it quicker and cheaper (less stripper) by following these simple rules:
work on one panel
work in overcast or non direct sunlight
strip after 15mins (or the optimum your brand suggests)
don't try and do it all on the 1st coat.
I'm going back to work after 3:00pm when the sun is down a bit..
PS: I used the stripper in the spray can ONLY for the rear vent area which was full of crap.. The rest was brush on..
Really inspiring thread... Thanks everyone! Gave me plenty of ideas for the resto i'm starting in November.
Hey StenGuns if you want a good rate on the gernie I can fix you up next time as I work at a building equipment hire place. Call me on 0403300921.
Phill.
P.S It looks like an awesome collection you got there ready to attack!
End of Day.. I learned more in the last half hour than I did all day.. The rest will go real quick (hope~)..
I'm thinking another full day, then sand blast a couple of areas and thats it!.. Great Fun!
damn that looks good
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
Now yr into it
Yes one panel at a time and 15 minutes its time consuming but the best method
Dry the car out b4 u use the sand blast so it blows off the surface and hidden cracks easier
Thanks Dave.. The rear roof gutters have been poorly patched at some stage... I'm still not sure about the heater channels.. That rear qtr panel had extensive rust which I'm sure has eaten some of the channel.. The same side has that patch under the front arch.. The drivers lower A piller also has been DIY patched at some stage..
Good news is the rear interior has cleaned up well.. still has the factory coat on good nick,.. Rather leave with the coat on (save time).. I can't see the need to take it back to metal..
yeah no need to remove paint from the interior.
dont forget to wash the whole car off with paint thinners so as to remove the paint stripper from the roof gutters and seams use some scotch bright with the thinners will bring up the metal like new
then apply some light oil on a rag to stop the surface rust ready for the panel shop
yummmmm.. fresh metal
After a lot of thought, Rob (my son) has decided on the following two colours.. The red beetle is in Ruby with Blood Ochre panels.. The green is BRG with Forest Green panels.. I think they are both appealing..
PS: Need help to get a Britax or Golde roof!! Anyone know of one for sale?
Have u talked to the beater as yet ??
Yes mate.. He's coming to look 7 October.. I'll trailer it down with all the bits in the T5 when he's ready.. I'll hopefully be ready either 7 or 14 October.. Allow 4 weeks for P&P and I should be re-assembling in late Nov.. My current issue is getting the ragtop in the next 2 weeks.. I really want it but can't afford to hold up the rest..
the red would look awesome, the darker one be hot in summer
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You could have the roof fitted later if you can find one
Did something a little different today and decided to get the front seats sorted.. I thought, before I got too far into the strip down (eg; before body off) I'd better get some seats that fit..
So..I bought a great seat of Nissan NX coupe seats today.. $150.00..
They are quite narrow (500mm) and the track wasn't too far off the track base in the beetle..
I spent the whole day making a frame to sit over the old base which will take the new runners.. good fun and I think I've got it sorted..
Didn't take my camera but will detail a post tommorrow.. I bought an arc welder and some 50mm angle steel.. The only drama was when I was cutting a section of steel with the big grinder and I set myself on fire from the sparks.. Funny
Here are the seats.. The made up base will bolt to the floor pan at the back and bolt to the inside of the existing seat frame at the front. You can see two flat steel pieces protruding from the frame.. They fit inside the existing frame and then bolted together..
Missing from these shots is the rear angle section that has drilled holes to bolt to the floor.. Rather than go for a complete section across the back (which restricts access under the seat) I have decided to make up two angle brackets (one either side) which will do the same job.. I need to weld these brackets with about a 25mm overlap so I keep the 50mm "height" at the back.. As 1964_Notch mentioned in my HiBack seat post.. The height of the seat position is critical..
Tomorrow I'll do final adjustments with my son (he is 6'3") and then do the passenger side..
Finished the brackets today.. I'll fit the seats tomorrow..
Here are a couple of shots of the layout on the floorpan
Two close ups to indicate the hard points.. Note the front will bolt to the existing seat rail that is welded to the floorpan.. The rear will bolt directly to the floor pan using hi tensile 10mm bolts and nuts fixed to plates under the pan..
silver top,guards and snow pearl sides would look as well.nice work with the seat rails.
Met with the "body guy" yesterday.. he looked over the whole car and thinks its in great nick.. Taking the body off the pan and shipping body to him on Oct21st.. Lot to do before then..
1/Finish stripping the panels
2/Media blast the rust areas, the door arches, the wheel arches, the front bulkhead and the engine bay.
3/Locate and fit a ragtop (optional)
4/New pins in both doors.
When the body is away, we will detail the pan, disc conversion on front beam, replace transaxle with 1600s box etc. Also the seats and cards will go to the trimmer so he can start work.. bumpers off for re-chroming..
All should be done in 60 days leaving the re-build over Xmas/New Year..
Still no closer on the colour scheme with one school (mum) wanting a stock (ex factory) look and other school (me) wanting a mildy modern look. Rob needs to choose soon.. Pix through the week
Colour scheme finalised today..
The green machine..
British Racing Green with Darker Green side panels..
Off white leather interior trim with dark green carpet.
Britax rag in black.. Old Skool chrome everywhere..
PS: The white leather was not my idea, I wanted Light Tan. We surveyed about 20 females and they all picked the green/cream combo.. so they won
[ Edited on 9-10-06 by StenGuns ]
Update..
An adjustable front beam from a donor car has been sent away for overhaul and refit with disc brakes.. Not cheap, but I get back a fully detailed (new bearings, ends, and repainted in POR15) adjustable beam with discs in wide five.. Cost is a shade under 2g's..
Also ordered the stainless extractor and exhaust for $440.00
Need to decide on whether I get a german set of rubbers or go the cheaper alternative.. German set (complete) I have been quoted 1000.00
Also need to decide on flat four chromed radars or something cheaper.. The flat fours are 15x5 and I was hoping for something a little wider on the back.. Falt fours will set me back $1495.00
U have u2u
Futue te ipsum!!!
Body finally went off to the panel beaters today. He will fabricate those parts that need replacing and prepare the whole car for paint. Next step is to prep the guards, doors and lids and send them off as well. The doors need new pins which will happen this week.. Hopefully next weekend we can get all the guards etc done so 1st week of November we can start detailing the pan.
Note the passenger side heater channel is a bit shot up the front.. Same at the back.. New sections to go in..
The sandblaster didn't turn up yesterday which meant the body went without having the engine or front bay totally stripped. The panel guy says he can take care of it..
[ Edited on 22-10-06 by StenGuns ]
Note in the last shot.. There has been quite a bit of work done in an earlier life.. Both A pillars have had their bottoms done and the panels in fron have had pieces patched in.. Makes you wonder why the channels weren't checked
Well the panelbeater has the body and has started the repair work.. The front and engine bay will still need a sandblast..
Today, I did a few hours on the guards and lids.. Tomorrow (with an extra set of hands) I should have all this stuff and the doors back to bare metal.. The doors then go for new pins and the whole lot can head off for the panel and paint work..
Here are a few shots from today
The guards and deck lid stripped.. need sanding back tomorrow
The bonnet getting stripped.. The paint stripper is pretty ineffective..Easier on these bit to use drills and grinders with strippers and discs..
The next part of the project will be to strip and detail the pan.. Next weekend
The ragtop is on its way from Adelaide..
Still need to locate the late model wiper assembly.. If anyone has a complete one from an "S" bug 68-72..????
