noice stuff......
:thumb:thumb for cam choice
Spent the weekend tidying up the firewall and rear luggage space, got carried away and installed dynamat and fixed up the wiring some more....
[ Edited on 15-10-2006 by 063bug ]
[ Edited on 15-10-2006 by 063bug ]
...and after a weekend of work this is the almost finished result
[ Edited on 15-10-2006 by 063bug ]
Alan, let us know how that soundproofing goes, as i am thinking about doing the same to my bug. Cheers Damo.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
From experience no matter how much you apply (I spent more than $500 worth on my ragtop)....the induction and exhaust noise are very difficult to totally attenuate. However of course it is much better than nothing at all!
Nice work Alan - did the gearbox arrive?
Hi Alan,
Lookin' good.
Can you take a photo of the inlet port before the engine goes in?
What it the Dellorto Update Kit like?
Was there a big improvement, and what is in the kit?(did you need a rebuild kit too?)
You are going to cream your pants when you drive that thing!!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
hey there that is a sick looking dub just a quick question how does the dynamat perform in realtion to heat tranfer and sound deadning ?? and idea on prices and where to get it form to as i am loking at something like that also 🙂
well done again looks great
Love is a Rotary baja bug
Just be carefull
🥷,, something dangerous is lurkin in My garage ready to burst out in a fit of Big Hp, high boost baja Rage .
http://groups.msn.com/GottaVW
Would it help to put it on the underneath of the firewall also?
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
dangerous wrote:Hi Alan,
Lookin' good.
Can you take a photo of the inlet port before the engine goes in?
What it the Dellorto Update Kit like?
Was there a big improvement, and what is in the kit?(did you need a rebuild kit too?)
You are going to cream your pants when you drive that thing!!
Thanks Dangerous... I am hoping for some cream :P
I have attached a photos of the inlet port for you.
I have no idea on how the Dellorto kit performs as I have just put it in for this rebuild.... probably not the best idea doing all this at the same time... change the engine, gearbox, rebuild carbs..... I know that Dasdubber has also put an update kit in his carbs that drive the type 4 so he might be able to give you something.
When the kit arrived it did have a gasket kit included..
:bounce:bounce:bounce:bounce
The transmission arrived yesterday :bounce:bounce:bounce:bounce:bounce
But I got a little enthusiastic and managed to partially cross thread one of the two large bolts that go into the frame horns..... @#@%$^@ :cussing 😬 🙁 If anybody had rung at about 5:00pm yesterday they could have taken the whole lot for a couple of dollars.... soon got over that after a phone call to Rod Penrose 😢 ....and now she's back on track again all solved but slowly, slowly from now on 😉
Have attached a couple of pictures of the new box and of itpartially in the car. Planning a big day today.... more pictures tonight. :blah :blah :blah
[ Edited on 16-10-2006 by 063bug ]
THUDKNUCKLE wrote:hey there that is a sick looking dub just a quick question how does the dynamat perform in realtion to heat tranfer and sound deadning ?? and idea on prices and where to get it form to as i am loking at something like that also 🙂
well done again looks great
Hey thudknuckle,
If I read what it says on the box all noise and heat will disappear.... it should be like driving in an esky :P
I picked mine up from a local autosound store and didn't do any ringing around but I got a bulk kit for $220 which is supposed to do the whole car..... might be pushing it but it would certainly do 80% of the major areas.
Thanks for the kind words. It's this forum and the people on it that inspire me.... Thanks :thumb
[ Edited on 16-10-2006 by 063bug ]
Turbo54 wrote:Would it help to put it on the underneath of the firewall also?
T54
T54, I was wondering that but the box that it came in only talks about the installation on the inside of the car. I can't see why it wouldn't but it is a little expensive to just give it a try for me. The Dynamat company has a range of products though.
www.dynamat.com.
Alan
A view fromunder showing the oil lines, oil cooler, front trans mount, kafer bar and a messy surface under the rear storage area.
[ Edited on 23-10-2006 by 063bug ]
Finally got to start it today, ran it in, lots of popping from the carbs, not before I blew off the system one filter (loose threads - will fix and reinstall but in the meantime I willuse the Framfilter I already had). Got a weak battery and it sounds like a six volter starting... 😂
Still got plenty to do, set the timing, adjust the carbs mixtures check eveything carefully tighten the wheel nuts, etc before I go for a test drive :bounce:bounce
[ Edited on 23-10-2006 by 063bug ]
...a picture of the running engine from the side showing carb linkage (still needs some work) and she will need to be stripped down again for paint/powder coat to make it all look a little more pretty..
[ Edited on 23-10-2006 by 063bug ]
Congrats dude....Look forward to hearing how it drives :thumb
Gets me excited for the new 1916 and transaxle I'm getting for my 58...
Reub
Yes, yes, yes..... she runs.... after modifying one of the distributor clips that was fouling on the fan mounting bracket to get the correct timing and a quick adjust ment to the idle, we wereoff.... just a cautious run the first time tomakesure everything was ok, then one with a bit more accelerator around the block... what fun 🤪 😵💫 :thumb ....a monster of a 2332 with unported inlet manifolds, 1.25 ratio rockers, so there is still more power to be had in the future....
... ran it without the decklid to allow as much air as possible just in case and the gearbox ran faultlessly, no noise, good ratio selection and painted to boot...
Since then I have topped up the gearbox oil, tightened up the axle nuts and put the pins in, put the lid on and tidied up the garage.... it's good to have it all back together.
... Sincere thanks to Rod Penrose with the engine, gearbox, urgent post deliveries and phone calls to sort out all sorts of issues..... Thanks so much 👍
[ Edited on 23-10-2006 by 063bug ]
Awesome stuff Alan - congratulations on getting it together without too many hiccups! Can't wait to see what it does in the 1/4 mile after the break in period 👍
... had a day down on the Gold Coast for the annual show... first big run for the new motor. I have an overheating problem 😢. Oil temp got up to 100 degC reasonably quickly which was ok but then after the fan kicked in it didn't stop and kept climbing till I got to the event. Then on the way home same thing again but it pretty much got to 125 degC by the time I got home ~40mins of driving at ~90kmh both ways to keep it cooler(was just a bit cooler in the morning which might explain the lower temp and about 30 degC on the way home)..... still got more work to do obviously 😢
was a good day otherwise.
[ Edited on 5-11-2006 by 063bug ]
have u got the oil cooler mounted inside the shroud?
me and brenton noticed today that inside ur decklid was sprayed with oil and there was oil in ur fan blades
might be leaking?
-Joel
Joel,
The oil cooler is remote mounted up above the transmission. I know that some oil is coming from the oil filler which I haven't sealed to the fan mount yet (realised this when I got home). I'm assuming that the oil that is being sprayed around the engine is coming from behind the pulley as the crankcase pressure maybe getting too high.... I also know that I have overfilled the crankcase with oil (few millimeters above the full line on the dipstick)
My biggest concern is the oil temp..... 😬
I had some fun this weekend with the oil breather bulkhead fitting dropping it's nutdown into the carb and then jamming in the inlet cavity of #2 head, not before jamming the throttle open and the engine bouncing off the rev limiter (7100rpm) a few times before I turned off the engine.... too close for comfort and nasty stain to prove it. see attached picture of the nut. :duh
I finally got 'round to putting a small and crude scoop to redirect air into the transmission area. I set all the tappets, checked the timing , balanced the carbs, set the linkage and went for a drive.... yahoo :bounce, the temp over the same distance didn't get to 120deg it only got to about 110deg @ 105kmh.... and it was a warm day too (~34deg) very pleased 😁. When I slowed down to 90kmh the temp didn't seem to drop much, but at least it didn't get to 120deg. Next weekend I will try to fabricate something up that forces a lot more air into that cavity around the transmission. I might also get some of that thermo wrap. What is your opinion on the thermo wrap for exhaust pipes?
If I get the chance I might remove the oil cooler in the fan shoud to see what difference that makes.
[ Edited on 21-1-2007 by 063bug ]
lucky... definately a brown shorts moment.
wouldn't moving the cooler into the fan shroud give you the same cylinder heating probs as non doghouse beetle shrouds? plus possibly mess up the airflow inside the shroud = potential hot spots on the cyls or heads?
Hi Alan,
That oil temp was very scarey!
A bit better now, but still a little high.
Perhaps try turning the oil cooler fan direction around (wires' polarity),
to get the flow of air in a better direction.
The other thing to look at is minor jetting changes. Another 5 or 10 degrees reduction should be sweet.
The jetting should be checked with an oxygen sensor.
Also double check your sender is OK in boiling water.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Hi Dangerous,
I did have the fan sucking air through the cooler but thought that cavitation (vaccum) may not have been as efficient as forcing air into the cooler. I also put the fan under the cooler so it could catch the cooler air passing under the car and blow it up through the cooler. There is a gap between the cooler and the underside of the parcel shelf of about 100mm (to clear the kafer bar) so there is plenty of room on the other side of the cooler.
I checked my oil temperature with a NATA approved digital temp gauge from work that is calibrated every 6 months and both my car gauge and the temp gauge were only a couple of degrees out, so the oil is getting hot.
With the oxygen sensor is it the sort that is pushed into the exhaust or do I need something welded to the exhaust collector (hoping for the first one) and I'm guessing that this would all be best done on a dyno..... which leads me to who would you reccomend, who have you had the best dealings with?
wouldn't moving the cooler into the fan shroud give you the same cylinder heating probs as non doghouse beetle shrouds? plus possibly mess up the airflow inside the shroud = potential hot spots on the cyls or heads?
... and, yes "whatnow" I have the same feelings about the cooler being mounted in the fan shroud causing hot spots but also preheating the air for cylinders 1 & 3
[ Edited on 22-1-2007 by 063bug ]
Hey Alan, sorry to hear about the mishap - glad to hear though that no major damage was done!
I had my remote cooler mounted in the same spot as you on my old ragtop and originally had the fan sucking air through the cooler (fan mounted under the cooler)....I then flipped the fan over so it pushed the air through and it made a significant difference in cooling (ie. much better). So I feel you have it the right way in its current configuration.
I had the same issues with high temps in my type IV and unfortunately no matter what changes I made, I did not see an acceptable drop until I changed my fan shroud to the Down The Middle type from the US. I am not suggesting you do this (as the type IV had different issues to what you have), but I have my fingers crossed with some dyno tuning (unfortunately I have no recommendations) you can lower your temps.
Good luck mate :thumb
Oh yeah, forgot to ask, how did the nut get down the carb throat? I thought you ran filters on your Dellortos?
oh Das, I don't really want to say too much :blush other than I didn't think far enough into the future and also didn't put any thing on to stop the nut coming all the way off and then straight down the venturi...... oh s#!t 🙄
.... I put the breather through the top of the air filter directly above the venturi..... idiot, especially as I didn't tie wire it, silicone it, bur the end of the threads or anything.... listen closely all you wanabe mechanics
Ah-ha - now I figure out where the nut came from! That was a slight misunderstanding on my behalf 🙂
Thanks for clearing it up!
Now hurry up and get it sorted so we can hit a test and tune night at willowbank!
Well I made swiss cheese of the oil cooler aluminium mount and made a larger scoop to catch the air and direct it directly at the cooler and fan....... and it worked. The engine oil now runs at about 105degrees at 110kmh and then drops again when down at 80kmh to around 100degrees.
My next plan now is to play with the jetting in the carbs to see how the engine is running, so a dyno tune might be required... I just have to find one that I trust. My aimis to get the car to run at 110kmh and the oil to stay at ~100degrees or less.
I will take some photos next weekend of what I have done. The cooler stayed where it started as I really couldn't find anywhere else to put it that was either safe from road debris or moving components of the cars suspension, etc.