Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus
5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Hey Keith - any luck with parts arriving yet? I guess progress is dependent on when you get the gear!
Dedicated nitrous engine.
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
I'm guessing you don't mean blue power-aid? :PBoostn wrote:dangerous wrote:Horse "power"?davidoconnor wrote:Knowledge is power right!!
NOW.... where can I get some more knowledge?
The only thing I don't get is how do they get all the knowledge into that blue bottle?
I can relate about the part delays... Havn't driven my bug in more than 8 months. Still waiting on my Rancho tranny...
[ Edited on 4-4-2007 by 2443TT ]
Boostn Wolfsburg Wizard
657 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·
2443TT wrote:I'm guessing you don't mean blue power-aid? :PBoostn wrote:dangerous wrote:Horse "power"?davidoconnor wrote:Knowledge is power right!!
NOW.... where can I get some more knowledge?
The only thing I don't get is how do they get all the knowledge into that blue bottle?
I can relate about the part delays... Havn't driven my bug in more than 8 months. Still waiting on my Rancho tranny...
[ Edited on 4-4-2007 by 2443TT ]
Rancho?
Why when people like DB have been building boxes for years?
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Unfortuanately for some people it is not worth the hassle of chasing parts and cores IN this country.
It seems even with the freight cost, that a box can be built in the US for about the same price as the parts cost alone here in Australia.
eg businesses selling a $60US dollar cast side cover "on special" for A$220 is madness
and poor business practise(not that I would know so ignore my rambling)
Although I have heard that some people are being sold trannys for a PRICE rather than features.
Ian knows what he wants... so I am sure he has ordered a lot of things from one shop that would take 3 or 4 shops to do here.
eg new gears, and hipo parts, new OEM parts, case bracing(not a fan), core, and labour.
At least if it needs service or repair work there are many businesses in this country that can do that for him.
Many people order a tranny from companies overseas based on HP or times,
but in most cases some tings will work OK, but not really be suited
or have an unacceptable life span for the dollar spent.
Gear boxes are rated using torque and then factored for abuse.
I hope you chose a Bus Tranny Ian.
Sorry for the Hi-jack keith.
It seems even with the freight cost, that a box can be built in the US for about the same price as the parts cost alone here in Australia.
eg businesses selling a $60US dollar cast side cover "on special" for A$220 is madness
and poor business practise(not that I would know so ignore my rambling)
Although I have heard that some people are being sold trannys for a PRICE rather than features.
Ian knows what he wants... so I am sure he has ordered a lot of things from one shop that would take 3 or 4 shops to do here.
eg new gears, and hipo parts, new OEM parts, case bracing(not a fan), core, and labour.
At least if it needs service or repair work there are many businesses in this country that can do that for him.
Many people order a tranny from companies overseas based on HP or times,
but in most cases some tings will work OK, but not really be suited
or have an unacceptable life span for the dollar spent.
Gear boxes are rated using torque and then factored for abuse.
I hope you chose a Bus Tranny Ian.
Sorry for the Hi-jack keith.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
I should clarify that I am "not a fan" of WELDED bracing on magnesium cases.
Many other forms do help.
Many other forms do help.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
fullnoise Fahrvergnugen
964 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
I hear you've been busy? Spill your guts for us will ya?
CYA CT
CYA CT
esratrams
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Yeah!
What he said.
What he said.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Hi all,
Been a bit slack with the updates lately so here goes. I have finally finished the pan, replaceing balljoints, tie-rods, wheel bearings, seals, all bushes, cables, brakes, 28mm torsion bars, etc. I ran 2 10mm steel lines through the tunnel for the fuel system as i plan on fitting a back to tank regulated system. I have a Mallory pump and reg ordered which should be here in a few weeks.
All the Albin`s gears are here. 4.57 r&p, 3.1,1.8,1.26,.96. Have the 002 trans, bus into bug adaptor, 4 spider 091 diff etc. Just need to find a gearbox guru who`s willing to make it all fit.
The shell is off to my cousin come panel beater come painter tomorrow. I have decided to paint the car the original diamond blue in an effort to keep the cost and downtime to a minimum.
Now the engine. My heads are still away but i expect and was made aware of this. I had a cam ground by Phil at Sure cams, the finish is just unbelievable. Wasn`t expensive either when compared to other offshore cams. I decided to go with a direct port WON nitrous system which should be here in a week. I also bought a controller at the same time.
Hpoefully in the next few weeks i will start mocking up bottom end etc getting ready for the top end then off to balancing. I ended up with an 84 x 94 combo as i had drama`s trying to get thick 92`s so i gave up and ordered some wiseco`s instead. I read they have a thicker top ring which is more suitable for nitrous applications.
Well thats about it so far. Can any of the pro`s out there point in the right direction on lightening 930 cv`s and also shock absorber selection. I`m pushin` for Warick so we`ll see how it goes.
Regards, Keith.
Can someone explain to me how to get the photos to attach to a post. I cannot seem to get it to work. Ta.
Been a bit slack with the updates lately so here goes. I have finally finished the pan, replaceing balljoints, tie-rods, wheel bearings, seals, all bushes, cables, brakes, 28mm torsion bars, etc. I ran 2 10mm steel lines through the tunnel for the fuel system as i plan on fitting a back to tank regulated system. I have a Mallory pump and reg ordered which should be here in a few weeks.
All the Albin`s gears are here. 4.57 r&p, 3.1,1.8,1.26,.96. Have the 002 trans, bus into bug adaptor, 4 spider 091 diff etc. Just need to find a gearbox guru who`s willing to make it all fit.
The shell is off to my cousin come panel beater come painter tomorrow. I have decided to paint the car the original diamond blue in an effort to keep the cost and downtime to a minimum.
Now the engine. My heads are still away but i expect and was made aware of this. I had a cam ground by Phil at Sure cams, the finish is just unbelievable. Wasn`t expensive either when compared to other offshore cams. I decided to go with a direct port WON nitrous system which should be here in a week. I also bought a controller at the same time.
Hpoefully in the next few weeks i will start mocking up bottom end etc getting ready for the top end then off to balancing. I ended up with an 84 x 94 combo as i had drama`s trying to get thick 92`s so i gave up and ordered some wiseco`s instead. I read they have a thicker top ring which is more suitable for nitrous applications.
Well thats about it so far. Can any of the pro`s out there point in the right direction on lightening 930 cv`s and also shock absorber selection. I`m pushin` for Warick so we`ll see how it goes.
Regards, Keith.
Can someone explain to me how to get the photos to attach to a post. I cannot seem to get it to work. Ta.
Chewy Fahrvergnugen
889 posts · joined Jul 2004 ·
Click on new reply at the bottem of the page, at the bottem of the text box just above "post reply" button there is a box for attachments, click browse and find the pic on your computor
.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
For attatchments the photos must be under 100kb but less than 50kb is the site's prefed size.
I opened a free host at photo bucket(ignore the advertising)
I normally reduce my photos down to about 500 to 700 width on a program called photofiltre,
then upload them to Photo bucket.
Once they are hosted on there, I copy and paste the IMG line.(RIGHT CLICK TO PASTE!).
Give me a ring some time keith .
I opened a free host at photo bucket(ignore the advertising)
I normally reduce my photos down to about 500 to 700 width on a program called photofiltre,
then upload them to Photo bucket.
Once they are hosted on there, I copy and paste the IMG line.(RIGHT CLICK TO PASTE!).
Give me a ring some time keith .
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Hi,
Here a a few photo`s of my attempt to retain a standard type 1 tunnel useing a type 4 mained crank. I modified a BMW thrust bearing and used it in conjuction with some wasserboxer thrusts.
Please feel free to comment/criticise as im not to sure on the reality of the set up.
Regards,
Keith.
And thanks for the photo tips.
[ Edited on 13-7-2007 by Keith Haeusler ]
I've just edited the pasted image links Keith so they show up in the thread - you have to put after the pasted link for it to show up. Let me know if you have any troubles
alan
[ Edited on 13-7-2007 by Dasdubber ]
Here a a few photo`s of my attempt to retain a standard type 1 tunnel useing a type 4 mained crank. I modified a BMW thrust bearing and used it in conjuction with some wasserboxer thrusts.
Please feel free to comment/criticise as im not to sure on the reality of the set up.
Regards,
Keith.
And thanks for the photo tips.
[ Edited on 13-7-2007 by Keith Haeusler ]
I've just edited the pasted image links Keith so they show up in the thread - you have to put after the pasted link for it to show up. Let me know if you have any troubles
alan
[ Edited on 13-7-2007 by Dasdubber ]
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
That looks great Keith.
Make sure you have plenty of 'radius clearance' on that inside radius,
the FW one looks to be plenty.
I like about 8 thou end float too,
remembering that the only oil that the FW-side gets
has to pass through the bearing first.
So also needs a good about of oil clearance on the journal diameter also.
Good idea!
Make sure you have plenty of 'radius clearance' on that inside radius,
the FW one looks to be plenty.
I like about 8 thou end float too,
remembering that the only oil that the FW-side gets
has to pass through the bearing first.
So also needs a good about of oil clearance on the journal diameter also.
Good idea!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Dave,
i ended up with 009" endfloat. I will increase the inside radius some more as well. Would you recommend i add a few more `oiling grooves` on the flywheel side to aid in getting oil in there. I would also add another oil drain in the same position on the other case half.
And thanks Alan for fixing the photo`s. All a learning curve for me. Took me an hour to get the links up there. Call me a computer novice.
Cheers,
Keith.
i ended up with 009" endfloat. I will increase the inside radius some more as well. Would you recommend i add a few more `oiling grooves` on the flywheel side to aid in getting oil in there. I would also add another oil drain in the same position on the other case half.
And thanks Alan for fixing the photo`s. All a learning curve for me. Took me an hour to get the links up there. Call me a computer novice.
Cheers,
Keith.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Good morning Keith!
The factory grooves in the face should be enough,
but one extra one per side wont hurt.
Don't make them too wide as to reduce the surface area too much,
and give them a curved bottom (rather than flat) to aid in the 'oil wedge'.
9 thou sounds like a lot but is fine for flanged deals.
(I have used 11 and currently have 9 also)
No engine ever seized a thrust from loose end float, only tight ones.
(unless you whole bearing moves in the case....which we are not talking about here!)
I am sure that at some point, the wider clearance may stop the oil from 'wedging',
but the grooves in the face will assist that when the crank is thrusted
against the bearing during clutch use.
Extra oil return hole is a good idea too, just steer clear of the main oil gallery!
Blend it's entry like a ram tube radius.
Also make sure you have at least 2.5 thou oil clearance on the journal diameter at the flywheel end , and 2 thou or more at the other bearings.
Don't forget the oil holes in the bearing!!
The factory grooves in the face should be enough,
but one extra one per side wont hurt.
Don't make them too wide as to reduce the surface area too much,
and give them a curved bottom (rather than flat) to aid in the 'oil wedge'.
9 thou sounds like a lot but is fine for flanged deals.
(I have used 11 and currently have 9 also)
No engine ever seized a thrust from loose end float, only tight ones.
(unless you whole bearing moves in the case....which we are not talking about here!)
I am sure that at some point, the wider clearance may stop the oil from 'wedging',
but the grooves in the face will assist that when the crank is thrusted
against the bearing during clutch use.
Extra oil return hole is a good idea too, just steer clear of the main oil gallery!
Blend it's entry like a ram tube radius.
Also make sure you have at least 2.5 thou oil clearance on the journal diameter at the flywheel end , and 2 thou or more at the other bearings.
Don't forget the oil holes in the bearing!!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
dragvw2180 Officially Full-On Dubber
393 posts · joined May 2006 ·
I would look real close at the oil passages coming to your main bearings and make sure of alignment,mine were off on my new case(aluminum). Mike
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Dave and Mike,
Thanks for the replies. I mic`d the crank at 2.362" and inside mic`d the thrust at just under 2.365" so ive in between 2.5 and 3 thou. The other mains measure the same.
I have noted where the oil gallery is in relation to the slot in the bearing and will modify the oiling slot to suit. None of them line up.
I have posted some pics ( hopefully ) to gain some internet practice.
Thanks,
Keith.
Got it suss`d now.
[ Edited on 14-7-2007 by Keith Haeusler ]
Thanks for the replies. I mic`d the crank at 2.362" and inside mic`d the thrust at just under 2.365" so ive in between 2.5 and 3 thou. The other mains measure the same.
I have noted where the oil gallery is in relation to the slot in the bearing and will modify the oiling slot to suit. None of them line up.
I have posted some pics ( hopefully ) to gain some internet practice.
Thanks,
Keith.
Got it suss`d now.
[ Edited on 14-7-2007 by Keith Haeusler ]
koolkarmakombi enkarmarising
2,078 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
t4 crank or t1?
t1 case has been machined for t4 main bearings?
got myself confused thinking about it.
t1 case has been machined for t4 main bearings?
got myself confused thinking about it.
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
It is an aftermarket type one crank.
The main bearing size is increased to 60mm (fromm 55mm) to give added strength.
It is described as having "type 4 mains"
The main bearing size is increased to 60mm (fromm 55mm) to give added strength.
It is described as having "type 4 mains"
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Koolkarmakombi,
As Dave said it`s a scat type 1 crank with the larger type 4 mains. I`m trying to retain the standard type 1 tunnel, i.e not tunnel bore the case to accept the larger type 4 main bearings to suit the type 4 mains( 60mm ).
This way i can go back to a type 1 main( 55mm ) crank at any stage because i have not modified the case tunnel in anyway. Thankfully there is a BMW bearing that is type 1 tunnel on the O.D and type 4 main on the I.D. It`s simply a thinner shell.
Hope this helps.
Cheers, Keith.
As Dave said it`s a scat type 1 crank with the larger type 4 mains. I`m trying to retain the standard type 1 tunnel, i.e not tunnel bore the case to accept the larger type 4 main bearings to suit the type 4 mains( 60mm ).
This way i can go back to a type 1 main( 55mm ) crank at any stage because i have not modified the case tunnel in anyway. Thankfully there is a BMW bearing that is type 1 tunnel on the O.D and type 4 main on the I.D. It`s simply a thinner shell.
Hope this helps.
Cheers, Keith.
vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday
16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Larry its looking good how far are you
I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Dave,
Slowly getting there. Got let down by a few U.S suppliers which kind of slowed progress somewhat.
We`ll see how I go.
Cheers, Keith.
Slowly getting there. Got let down by a few U.S suppliers which kind of slowed progress somewhat.
We`ll see how I go.
Cheers, Keith.
dragvw2180 Officially Full-On Dubber
393 posts · joined May 2006 ·
What I have been seeing lately is that the heat from the clutch is being transfered through the flywheel to the rear main,eating it up. What they are doing over here now is moving the thrust bearing to the middle journal of the case. I know Dave probably has some pics he can post. Rimco does the mod and it works. Believe me, I am let down by suppliers all the time and I live in the states !
Here is a site you may want to check out,
http://www.forum.nitrous-advice.com/
Mike
[ Edited on 22-7-2007 by dragvw2180 ]
Here is a site you may want to check out,
http://www.forum.nitrous-advice.com/
Mike
[ Edited on 22-7-2007 by dragvw2180 ]
matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
I luv this new engine stuff.
Keep it up guys.
Engine sounds awesome Keith
Keep it up guys.
Engine sounds awesome Keith
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
debiasi4 Officially Full-On Dubber
283 posts · joined Dec 2004 ·
hows the car coming alomg keith- let us know some more details
adam deb
adam deb
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Hi Adam and others,
Firstly i must apologise for the lack of updates on the car. We had another child (No3) which led to house extensions etc. This slowed me down somewhat. It`s a viscous cycle of work longer to get $$$ but then no time to work on project.
Anyway, the car itself is done ( paint, trim, wiring etc ) 002 trans is finished and in, all fuel system in, brakes finished, basically a completed roller.
Now the engine. I picked up a new mag case for a good price cut for flanged crank, bored, clearanced, bushed, pinned etc so i am using this instead of my ally case for starters. I have done a centre main job on it which i think turned out pretty good. Will post pics next week as i am away this week end.
I got some CB ultra wedge heads and will be using these over the CB C/E heads for now mainly for the cooling side of things. Engine parts are away at the moment being balanced. Cam is custom ground by Sure-cams to suit.
For nitrous i bought a kit from w.o.n in England. I went for a set of fuel & nitrous pulsoids on each side. Alittle more expensive but this is what they advised to keep lines short as possible. I am waiting until i have engine in car before i mount it too make sure everything fits in. Starting with 25hp jets then will move from there.
Basically still need to get exhaust, thinking off A1 sidewinder so i can hide it under car. Also need ignition set up, gave all my stuff to Col for his car.
Will post progress during week so you can have a look where im at. Aiming for a bit of a sleeper so to speak.
Regards, Keith
Firstly i must apologise for the lack of updates on the car. We had another child (No3) which led to house extensions etc. This slowed me down somewhat. It`s a viscous cycle of work longer to get $$$ but then no time to work on project.
Anyway, the car itself is done ( paint, trim, wiring etc ) 002 trans is finished and in, all fuel system in, brakes finished, basically a completed roller.
Now the engine. I picked up a new mag case for a good price cut for flanged crank, bored, clearanced, bushed, pinned etc so i am using this instead of my ally case for starters. I have done a centre main job on it which i think turned out pretty good. Will post pics next week as i am away this week end.
I got some CB ultra wedge heads and will be using these over the CB C/E heads for now mainly for the cooling side of things. Engine parts are away at the moment being balanced. Cam is custom ground by Sure-cams to suit.
For nitrous i bought a kit from w.o.n in England. I went for a set of fuel & nitrous pulsoids on each side. Alittle more expensive but this is what they advised to keep lines short as possible. I am waiting until i have engine in car before i mount it too make sure everything fits in. Starting with 25hp jets then will move from there.
Basically still need to get exhaust, thinking off A1 sidewinder so i can hide it under car. Also need ignition set up, gave all my stuff to Col for his car.
Will post progress during week so you can have a look where im at. Aiming for a bit of a sleeper so to speak.
Regards, Keith
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Hi,
Here are a few shots of the thrust on the centre main saddle. I saw a photo of a case done like this in the US so thought i`d give it a go.
I had the saddle machined to accept the thrust bearings then had 2 steel rings machined up and white metalled. Split the rings and drilled and tapped saddle. Then surface ground the backs of the bearings until i had the correct endfloat.
The screws sit about 1mm below the bearing surface.
What do you guys think? Should i cut some small grooves into the face of the bearing for oilling?
Regards, Keith
And thanks CT for the computer lesson!
Here are a few shots of the thrust on the centre main saddle. I saw a photo of a case done like this in the US so thought i`d give it a go.
I had the saddle machined to accept the thrust bearings then had 2 steel rings machined up and white metalled. Split the rings and drilled and tapped saddle. Then surface ground the backs of the bearings until i had the correct endfloat.
The screws sit about 1mm below the bearing surface.
What do you guys think? Should i cut some small grooves into the face of the bearing for oilling?
Regards, Keith
And thanks CT for the computer lesson!
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Very neat work Keith.
Yes I would certainly put some grooves in the face, especially on the FW side.
Use a tool that provides a curved bottom of the groove,
and make sure the edges of the groove,
where they blend into the actual bearing thrust face,
have no sharp edges that can scrape away the oil film.
This applies to the edge where you cut the two in half as well.
Factory bearings have a very slight ramp at the parting line
to provide the "wedge" that I mentioned in a post above.
How did you get in there to drill and tap those holes so neatly?!
Can you tell us who did the white metalling?
You will have to be very careful cutting the grooves,
that the heat generated does not cause warping of the steel,
and does not melt the white metal.
Yes I would certainly put some grooves in the face, especially on the FW side.
Use a tool that provides a curved bottom of the groove,
and make sure the edges of the groove,
where they blend into the actual bearing thrust face,
have no sharp edges that can scrape away the oil film.
This applies to the edge where you cut the two in half as well.
Factory bearings have a very slight ramp at the parting line
to provide the "wedge" that I mentioned in a post above.
How did you get in there to drill and tap those holes so neatly?!
Can you tell us who did the white metalling?
You will have to be very careful cutting the grooves,
that the heat generated does not cause warping of the steel,
and does not melt the white metal.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
debiasi4 Officially Full-On Dubber
283 posts · joined Dec 2004 ·
how about some pics of the rest of the car
adam deb
adam deb
colin Fahrvergnugen
984 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·
Nice one Larry!
Cheers Col
Cheers Col
Keith Haeusler Seriously Crusin Dubber
168 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Hi again,
Adam, here are a few shots of the rickshaw. Excuse the blurr and layers of dust on the paint. It`s a 69 semi auto converted. Still wears automatic badge on decklid.
I didn`t want to hack the dash for gauges so i`m making up something to locate them under dash etc
Here is the 002 trans fitted with Berg mounts that make it a bolt in arrangement(with the bus into bug box housing). 930 cv`s and sway-away axles in that pretty red colour, complete with stickers.
Here is a shot of an ultra wedgeport chamber for those that are interested. I think the intake port is the same as a normal wedge.
Dave,
I think the mob that white metalled was called Perry`s or Parry`s. They are at Chipping Norton. I will find out for sure as a good friend dropped the stuff over to them for me. It cost $80 to do both rings. They said it was time consuming to build up the white metal.
I will cut same small grooves into the thrusts this weekend and let you check it. And yes it was a major PITA drilling and tapping the case. We used the worlds smallest 90degree drill and `modified ` a tap to fit in the confines of the case.
More soon.
Regards, Keith
Adam, here are a few shots of the rickshaw. Excuse the blurr and layers of dust on the paint. It`s a 69 semi auto converted. Still wears automatic badge on decklid.
I didn`t want to hack the dash for gauges so i`m making up something to locate them under dash etc
Here is the 002 trans fitted with Berg mounts that make it a bolt in arrangement(with the bus into bug box housing). 930 cv`s and sway-away axles in that pretty red colour, complete with stickers.
Here is a shot of an ultra wedgeport chamber for those that are interested. I think the intake port is the same as a normal wedge.
Dave,
I think the mob that white metalled was called Perry`s or Parry`s. They are at Chipping Norton. I will find out for sure as a good friend dropped the stuff over to them for me. It cost $80 to do both rings. They said it was time consuming to build up the white metal.
I will cut same small grooves into the thrusts this weekend and let you check it. And yes it was a major PITA drilling and tapping the case. We used the worlds smallest 90degree drill and `modified ` a tap to fit in the confines of the case.
More soon.
Regards, Keith