Looks good mate.
How much boost later?
Matt
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Just a small T25G for now Matt, I would say max around 12 psi (maybe 14 at the most). Hopefully will use dual stage boost controller so normally will be limited to around 8 psi for daily driving (my wife uses the oval to get to work and back a few times a week!)
I'll be running a single throttle body, water to air intercooler, and most likely microtech ECU with crank trigger (so 009 is just for warwick pretty much so I can run carbs). It is all a budget build up so I'm using it as a way to learn more (eg. make mistakes like the above on cheaper components) so when I build a bigger/better engine I'll be able to do so more confidently!
Got the heads back today - will have to pull the inner springs out for break in (machine shop forgot to leave them out)....will also have to sort out geometry and check for coil bind etc (hopefully won't run into same problems as dumone!)
Tiny little 1800 valves will stay for now....hopefully will upgrade down the track some time!
Das
Are you worried about a river flowing through your back yard (i laugh everytime i see this in dumone's post) or maybe getting lots of practise of putting sping and shims in and out,
If it's anything like any of the other thing's you takle youll do a great job and remember all problems are great learning ecperiance.
Derek
Slowly but surely when time allows I'm progressing with the engine. Crank endplay with dry shims came in at 0.003" which is a little tight (0.004" required)....Didn't have spare shims so may need to 'borrow' a couple different thicknesses from Dave (thanks again Dave!).
Case plugs also in (thanks Damo!).
Dished pistons are retained, especially since I'll be going turbo down the track whcih makes lower compression ratio simple without having to run excessive deck height. Rings were all removed and cleaned - barrels still have perfect hone marks still as the engine did bugger all kms when in the ragtop.
Deck height clamp and dial indicator (again borrowed - need to save some money and invest in these tools now I am will be doing more and more) may need slight modification to sit over or on top of type IV barrel lips as my readings were a bit inconsistent. once sorted deckheigh will be measured and then onto the next step!
derraux wrote:Das
Are you worried about a river flowing through your back yard (i laugh everytime i see this in dumone's post) or maybe getting lots of practise of putting sping and shims in and out,
If it's anything like any of the other thing's you takle youll do a great job and remember all problems are great learning ecperiance.
Derek
Yep - I think there will be a lot of practice whilst trying to sort out valve train geometry....hopefully no major problems though!
Lookin good Alan, i remove excess sealant on the case halfs with a tiny bit of thinner on a rag just makes it look better and prevents dirt/dust sticking too it. When i do valve train geometry i use the type 4 rocker shaft springs one on top of the other, prevents lube getting wiped off the cam, where as the double springs will remove it. But you are doing a great job as usuall.
Cheers Damo.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Thanks for the tips Damo - hopefully I'll be back onto measuring deck height tonight after work (and after work on the notch - I'm getting used to these 11pm-12am days which is good as I dare say there will be quite a few leading up to warwick). Valve train geometry is going to be fun, my only concern is coil bind so I'll probably leave the dual springs in and check for that first, then remove them as per your advice....then leave the inners out for cam break in.
66deluxe wrote:Lookin good Alan, i remove excess sealant on the case halfs with a tiny bit of thinner on a rag just makes it look better and prevents dirt/dust sticking too it.
But you are doing a great job as usual.
Cheers Damo.
Biddy Sticks are good for that purpose too.
What is a Biddy Stick?
Cotton buds.
(My Dad calls them 'biddy sticks'
and I never new it was a 'made up' name
'till I asked for them at the shops one time...the lady gave me a real strange look!)
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
c'mon guys.... cleaning your engine case with "biddy sticks" talk about anal.. :P
Well I broke out the biddy sticks and cleaned up the sealant last night 🙂
Also reset end play as it was previously 0.003" (dry shims) so fortunately Dave had a spare few type IV shims laying around so with the right combo I got 0.004" which is spot on.
Heads have been torqued on in readiness for valve train geometry procedure - Dual springs left in place for now to measure coil bind etc. Just have to work out the adjustable pushrod length and will go from there.
In between sessions working on the notch resto, I've been slowly tinkering with the engine (thanks to Dave for his over the phone guidance!). When I get a chance I'll update compression issues etc, but for now the good news is the oval has reclaimed its garage spot from the notch so its all systems go for warwick prep - lots to do so I'll update whenever I get time.
were do you find the time.
down sharon.
westi - long days mate......looooong days (and an understanding wife as I've said many times before!). Just finished work again for the night (told you I'm getting used to these 12am finishes after working a full day at my 'real' job. Ah well, its not a chore when you enjoy it.
The 36hp engine is out (dyno'd at 21.1hp at the rear wheels mind you) - it has a new owner already - just have to find the time to get it to brisbane for transport down south.
Gearbox should be out tomorrow.
Pulled the dual valve springs out, and mocked up the rocker spring for geometry setup. Chromoly retainers, keeper and heavy duty rocker studs all in place.
Keeper edges are touching so they will be clearanced tomorrow for an effective clamp on the valve stem.
Will udpate the pic tomorrow night (if I get time) for comparison of keeper gaps.
better get a few hrs sleep - at least there is no surf at the moment so I won't miss out on anything tomorrow 🙂
Gearbox came out today - bit oily/greasy in there...
After a quick clean up you can see the front mount which will be cut off tomorrow to make way for the later style front mount.
Since everything will come out again when its time to plumb in the turbo, I am not worried about making everything pretty at this point in time. Rear apron is pretty hammered as the rear end has had a pretty big shunt in the past - both bumper mounts are buckled, inner guards are a little kinked, and engine bay surround tin is not straight either. I am going to do a quick removable apron to make engine installation etc easier.
Night off tonight which is a nice change - better still have some semblance of a social life. 😉
Nothing too exciting to report tonight - quick upload of photo and then will be back into it tonight.
New gearbox was slotted in for trial fit today - solid rear mount (thanks Daimo) went it well - will need to solid mount the mid mount as well (currently a urethane mount)....and will have to fab up a front solid mount adaptor as well (can you tell this won't be a daily driver?) 😉
Very quick tidy up and flat black slapped on so at least one part of the oval is one colour:
Sounds like the poor old girl won't know what hit her 😁
Started (finally) to sort out rocker geometry tonight after pulling the heads off, and putting them back on many times to sort out deck height (with the addition of a 0.006" thicker spacer under the barrels). That brings the deck to (with 0.002" allowance for silicon):
#1 0.040"
#2 0.035"
#3 0.045"
#4 0.035"
Close to the optimal 0.004". So now that is sorted, the head gaskets could be removed as when the engine was built originally, the extra 12cc of chamber volume was not accounted for thus CR which was supposed to be set at 7.5:1 ended up being 6.7:1 - as Dave mentioned "no wonder it was so slow"!
This time the head gaskets will be left out, so that will bring me right back to 7.5:1 (variation from 7.388:1 to 7.555:1 depending on cylinders). Remembering this will be receiving a turbo down the track hence why CR is kept very mild. Research thus far does not suggest head sealing will be a problem since boost will be kept low in this application. For warwick though, it will just get carbs (thanks to Rod for the loaner!).
Outer springs only in place for now (tried the rocker spacer springs but there was too much play in the retainer with dial indicator in place so went back to outers only). At full lift after fiddling with #1 inlet I obtained exactly 0.500" lift which is spot on with cam card - took a few revolutions to get it right but very happy with the outcome thus far. Pic shows dial on 0.000 after it spun 5 times around.
Geometry at full lift (911 swivel feet adjusters and clearanced 1.7L rockers):
Dial indicator set to half actual lift (in this case 0.250") to check adjuster to valve stem geometry - looking good thus far.
Will have to get some bigger vernier calipers tomorrow so I can measure the adjustable pushrod before I change its length for the exhaust pushrod.
Thanks to Nick for the sale of the VVDS disc brake kit - gave the rotors a lick of high temp black paint and bolted it all up with some fresh bearing grease etc:
I must admit its killing me a little leaving stuff so shabby....but I feel a full body off DRKC style resto will happen some day so I can rest easy for now. Over the weekend the line lock and new brake lines will get plumbed in plus cheap elec fuel pump....just to add to the to do list!
top work as always 🙂 if you need a hand to get you over the line with something in Brissy let me know.
Cheers Stephen
Thanks Stephen - I'll keep it in mind and give you a call if I get stuck! My brother in law is coming down on the weekend (so we can fit his line lock to his ghia, and to help me get this thing sorted) - so hopefully we'll have it covered. Cheers again for the kind offer.
Forgot to say, looks like the original oval front mount will stay in place as I'll just make up a solid mount adaptor to couple to the gearbox. Hopefully today I'll get time to buy some steel so I can get these mounts finished and start bolting some stuff back in!
Alan
lookin' good Alan. Looking forward to seeing and hearing your work at Warwick.
black rotors look sick!
nick
bond wrote:black rotors look sick!
nick
I thought it would look better black when I finally get the new wheels on there at some stage (not before warwick unfortunately as funds won't permit new slicks etc in time!).
Didn't get a chance today to get the longer vernier calipers to measure pushrod length accurately...will hopefully get tomorrow. For now engine is waiting patiently for next phase.
T-bars arrived today and bolted in place:
Line lock temporarily in place (will hopefully get the brake lines made up in the next day or two).
More tomorrow I am sure!
I just wrapped up for the night a little disappointed - looks like I got one too many 1.7L type IV exhaust rockers, and hence one short intake rockers from the US. These are standard 1.7 rockers but have been clearanced for the 911 swivel feet adjusters....I'm going to get in touch with Damo (66deluxe) to see if he has one I could borrow until I can replace it from the US to get me out of trouble - also have to pinch Damo's oil filler/dipstick adaptor as mine won't arrive in time.
Apart from that all the geometry is now sorted and pushrod lengths measured - at half lift all adjusters have been dialled into good alignment with the valve stems and although only the outer springs are in at the moment, looks to have miles of clearance before bind at full lift (0.500").
Now I just need pushrods cut to length, piston rings back on, heads back on and pushrod tubes installed. If I can get the 1.7 intake rocker off Damo maybe tomorrow evening, I'll hopefully be able to button it up. Solid mounts (mid and front) should be done tomorrow thus g'box firmly in place. New front brake lines were made today for line lock (but I buggered up one length so I'll hopefully get it remade tomorrow).
Das, i have replied to your U2U, i have 6 sets of rockers the ones sitting on my flywheel i think are complete with shafts and have been clearanced for the 911 adjusters. I hope you get it done mate, good luck Damo.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Thanks Damo - picked up the rocker and oil dipstick adaptor the other day - much appreciated.
Thanks to Alan for dropping down his 40 dells on loan (as well as the pipe benders which helped with the new brake lines and fuel line (8mm stainless)).
Took heaps of photos today but accidentally deleted them before the transfer to the puter finished - D'OH!
So here are a few crappy late night poor light photos just to show I have got a bit done lately!
Original rear brakes were skimmed and new shoes matched and just quickly paint detailed to look semi tidy. New flex and hard lines (on axle) also installed.
Solid mid mount worked out well (obviously paint was just slapped on to stop rust for now)
All the purists can relax (you included Craig T 😉 - the 54 front mount stayed in tact and new solid front mount fabbed to suit. All bolted up and loctited in place in readiness for the vibrations (thanks for the tip Craig)
Nice new starter (bosch)....heater hoses will be removed tomorrow)
Line lock was plumbed in finally and wired up. Big thanks to Spinners Automotive at Christine Ave (Burleigh) particularly Peter who came back to the shop at 6pm last night to fix some fittings that were wrong - he went out of his way to get us sorted (myself and Brad with his karmann ghia)....would recommend them for any brake help (or new car servicing etc).
A quick disconnect has been installed on the wires to the switch (mounted on handbrake) so the line lock is not functional on the street.....not that this makes it 'legal' however without the switch there is no way of operating it so hopefully that may give me a bit of leeway if pulled up.
Tested it out on Brads ghia - worked well (no burnouts yet though - we are responsible of course)...save that for warwick!
Can't see myself getting to bed earlier than 1am this week! D'OH
Hi alan have been noticing the posting times have been getting later and later(or earlier and earlier the next day) man, you must have hyper active veedub disorder 😵 to keep putting your nose to the grindstone like that. hope it all goes to plan and look forward to seeing you at Warwick.
Customer service is not dead in Australia.
Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools
DUBB61 wrote:Hi alan have been noticing the posting times have been getting later and later(or earlier and earlier the next day) man, you must have hyper active veedub disorder 😵 to keep putting your nose to the grindstone like that. hope it all goes to plan and look forward to seeing you at Warwick.
Yeah - early night tonight - actually just finished work before 12am which is a change!
Rings are back on pistons, brakes are all bled (thanks to my wife Katie for being the "pedal pusher"), miscellaneous wiring was completed including fusing the line lock and fuel pump. Half day at work tomorrow so with the help of Dave, pushrods should be cut to length and then (hopefully) will lap cylinders to heads, clean them and torque them up. Can't wait for the engine to be buttoned up (finally) so it can get bolted in place. It would be nice to at least have a day or two for tuning before putting it on the trailer (providing there are no major mishaps).
Time for sleep now I think.
🤪
