Hi Steve
i havent driven it far without the blower engaged,
but the clutch was powered just i forgot to tension the belt 😊
but it felt exactly like a stock 1600
so im guessing it puts a very slight restriction on the intake with the engines vacuum having to spin over the blower but really it had no real noticable affect
the blower turns over that easily its not funny
but im actually going to remove the clutch assembly and mount a fixed pulley instead as theres no real reason to have the clutch its just a weak link IMO
i never turn mine off
cos its so easy to just drive like a nanna but then naii it and the powers there instantly
i was really impressed with how it performed on the motorway
sitting behind a car at 100 and being able to pull out and hit 120 to pass in seconds with out barely putting the hammer down was exactly the sort of responce i was hoping for with the blower
i can see why they would be ideal for a big heavy kombi
I thought that you may want to have the clutch hook up at a certain throttle opening but I suppose that you don't really need it. So this is the 1600 in there still or do you have 1776 in?
yeah its still the stock 1600,
Richards got my copper head gaskets almost ready so the 1776 should be back in very soon
the stock 4agze motors have the clutch triggered by the ECU
it works off manifold pressure
so they only engage when u put enough load on the engine
when theyre not they have a air bypass valve that runs around the blower
im thinking of adding this setup once i go EFI
thats abit of a grey area
most say the vane coatings are teflon but a few of the experts say its flourine or something???
anyway steve rae spoke to toyota and they said it would be fine and the fuel mix would actually help cool the blower
but either way ive seen a heap of these used in draw thro setups with no probs so who knows...
but i plan on going mega squirt soon
just trying to work out whether to go MPI or and have the TB before the blower or gut a set of webers and use twin TBI instead in blow thro
be easier to intercool like that
Hey , didn't see this until now.. nice work joel.. saw you the other day as i was going south in clunes (in my 64) you zipped by.. can you take us for a spin one day soon? Cheers , Tim
quick note to anyone thats doing a conversion like this...
make sure the crank bolt is fkn tight!
i rarely drive my bug to work but it was such a nice day i couldnt help it
driving home i noticed the power dropped off a noticible and she was spluttering abit at higher revs
but there was no funny noises or anything out of the ordinary and i was only 5kms from town so i just babied it home
when i got home and had a looksee the belt and crank pulley were just kinda hanging there doing nothing
crank bolt had falledn out and by some fluke of who knows what the crank pulley had stayed on the crank even tho its loose enough that i can pull it off by hand with a bit of jiggling
luckily everythings ok just lost the center shoulder and crank bolt
plus my degreed pulley looks abit sorry
think i use a lock washer next time
but yes they do still run without the blower belt on
on a positive note thos since changing the blower clutch and running a smaller pulley on it, its now hitting 10psi boost
but really needs some water injection to run that sorta PSI safely tho
Hi Joel,
Great right up- I have been considering doing this after my mate did it to his mini moke! So some questions if you do not mind....
Q. What jetting did you end up with on the 1776?
Q. Can you provide details on how far aft and above the fan shroud it ended up? ( I need to access if it will fit with the lid shut)
Q. And finally I was a bit concerned in loading up the end of the crank and was considering using a toothed belt and pulley. Any comments?
Nice job. I was keen in building a supercharged type 4 for my Baja. I bought 2 type 4's for parts, and was looking for an SC14. Then I starting pricing type 4 parts and realised it would be cheaper to go jap import. So I sold the type 4's and went with the V6. But I still have a want to go for a supercharger, so maybe one day I will put one on the V6 🙂
What sort of crank bolt are you using? If it's stock is it still engaging a reasonable length?
The offset supercharger drive pulley on the crank will be putting a lot of stress on that bolt. If it's not quite tensioned enough then you may get slight movement of the pulleys on each other, and also on the bolt face. This will cause fretting which will slowly wear the mating faces. Eventually this will effectively make the bolt lose tension, and then it will start loosening itself. If I were you I'd transfer the timing marks you need onto a steel pulley and use that welded to the supercharger crank pulley. Then the load (which is a much bigger bending moment than what comes from the stock pulley / belt forces) should be transferred to the crank, which has a better chance of dealing with it than the bolt.
thanks for that info Wes
thats the way id been thinking of going but the main prob is the valance
if u weld the blowers pulley to a stock crank pulley the engine wont clear the valance bolting it in/out
and there wasnt enough room to slide it onto the crank when the engines bolted in
i dont really wanna hack my car up for the sake of a removable valance, but the way things are going i may have to
my other rotary bug had a fibreglass john shearman one fitted but the inner gaurds are fairly flimsy when the bumper isnt bolted on which i dont like
i had all the other problems covered tho
ive changed the pulley offset since the original build now its only about half what it was which has allowed my original quiet pack header to fit back on
the pulley butts right up against the crank pulley with a 75mm surface and to locate it there was a shoulder machined up that sat inside the crank pulley flange
unfortunatly tho this bit got lost when the bolt fell out
i did get a longer bolt tho, it was only standard grade as i didnt see the pioint in going high tensile
it did work out fine i was just slack when i bolted it up last time cos the crank was trying to turn over when i did it up
but really its the same setup up as original A/C compressors and the blower has alot less load than compressor with a high headpressure in summer would
aintgotitmusthaveit,
just took some measurements for u
the top of the blower is 35mm above the fan housing which is a standard doghouse one ( the aftermarket 36hp doghouse are a tad lower)
and its 355mm from the top of the case where the joint is to the top of the blower
u could go abit lower if were running a generator or moved the blower left or tilted it more
ive just been away on 2 weeks holiday so i still havent got the 1776 back in yet but ill let u know wwhat jetting i end up with
Thanks Joel for all your help. Grass hopper has a lot to learn still!
So dubbers...Project vw 356-SC has started
Bought a 40mm delorto off ebay and the SC from ebay US with intercoller and throttlebody( perhaps 2009 project!!)
Anyway will post details of the build once I start.
Thanks again Joel. Any info you pass on is much appreciated
good luck with it
trust me there will be times when u wanna toss a match at it, beleive me i almost did lol
but the dells are a pretty sweet carb to work with
replacement jets are easy to get on ebay
i just soldered up an old set and kept reaming them out till i got it to run sweet then orderd a new set in the right sizes.
i also got a new set of venturies as well
carbs keep it simple to start with
im gonna setup a megasquirt controlled EFI on mine soon and probably go air to water charge cooler due to space constrictions but i know theres a lot of work ahead in doin that and it wont be an overnight project
im not on here much lately so just PM me for my email or MSN
my bug gets pinkslipped the sarvo so i had planned on removing the blower but the boys reckon its fine and legal so im leaving it for now
but i decided b4 it came out to see what the old girl could really do so i opened her up pretty well yesterday on a "close circuit race track"
I like that superchargers can just be bolted on but the only prob is the calculation of the pulley and not easy to adjust boost. also it takes up a lot of room and i want to fit aircon. but what a great conversion. well done
changing boost is a piece of piss
i just have a few different size pulleys just bolt a new one on.
its running 10psi now which is the max id give a stock engine if i lay into it to hard now it pings abit but water injection fixes that
i plan on installing A/C eventually too
there still room to bolt the compressor to the stock position and run it off the same belt as the blower.
which makes it easier to get a compressor cos all cars now run with ribbed belts not Vbelts anymore
Just an update i got the pink slip done today and luckily i know the mechanic pretty well and he passed it for me but he siad it requires an engineers certificate to be legal
but after checking it out said i would have no probs getting one
I was looking at the throttle body on Pulsar today and it got me thinking about your plans to go EFI. Have you considered using a throttle body with built in injectors from a Pulsar/Camira or early EFI falcon. You could mount one in place of your carb, but that would no good for inter cooling, or maybe you could mount one on each side, a bit like twin Webbers and blow through them.
Hi Steve,
that was actually one of the ways i was thinking of going
i was talking with ian swinkles about it the other day on SBO but it seems to have crashed atm
seemed like an easy alternative, twin JD camira/n13 pulsar TBI on either side with a megasquirt ECU
but an ordinary throttle body inplace of my current dell and some FI style end manifold pieces would be just as easy too...
i do have a complete AC delco multi port system here but it has no ECU
but anyway i picked up a HIF SU carb today that im gonna have a tinker with
they work well in blow thro and my bug still has my makeshift return fuel line from my original blow thro turbo setup