Well basically i've got a 1916 with dual 44's Webers and personally (not to offend) i don't like the popped lid look, even the lower popped lid.
I was hoping that someone may have some ideas??
I've heard of running some ducting from the rear parcel tray near the gearbox throught the back firewall to the air intake on the fan, but then theres the issue of getting rid of hot air, not just getting more air.
vw54, im running dual 44 IDF's at the moment, i was told that unless i get the hot air out, even with an oil cooler (which is in the works) she will still get hot. Did you find this or have you always had EFI.
I don't think the oil cooler will fix Your problem
as Your engine just needs more air....
having the engine lid open at the top doesn't look good in My opinion too...
but putting cool air into the engine bay is more important than looks...
You could take the front plate out and duct air from underneath... into the engine bay...
plus with a hole under the number plate will let the air flow thru....
If You fit hood jax to your engine lid, You can close the engine lid at any time in a few seconds...
After you have spent the next three months asking questions, chopped into tinware 🙅 sliced holes in your inner guards, put holes behind your numberplate 🤘 added ice coolers to your intakes 😎 magnets to your fuel lnes ❗ closed in your carby intakes and connected them to pipes under the car, chopped out your firewall and added a piece of air conditioning duct to the front passenger footwell 😂 installed an oil cooler above your gearbox and another one in your front bumper... 🤓
give me a call and I will be happy to mail you a set of Hoodjax that can on and off your car in 20 seconds and will keep your engine cool 😉
yes hoodjax are easy on, easy off , and leave little sign they were ever there (two 10mm holes) if you decide against them. i have and use hoodjax when the need arises, they for sure work effectively
.........but heres another not so intrusive way if you don't want your boot popped.
............running these on my current motor, i have the same engine temperatures wether the hood is propped or closed........if we had a wind tunnel we could work out exactly why........but alas🥲
from page 12, or 8........
rear tin fresh air rams were also finished up.......
coincidence that the correct size tube happens to be the V.W air tubes...............think not🙅
down into the high pressure area below the torsion housings untill i make up some scoops (shaped like a vacaumn cleaner head) that will also feed the oil cooler above the gearbox.......
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Isn't your fan doing that already at 24 c ft/sec. (@ 4000 rpm)?
If your engine is set up correctly, cooling system, comp. ratio, jetting etc, you shouldn't have any cooling issues!
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
......also i thought the principle was that between the carbs, fan & the extra rpm the engine bay can get straved for air. the vents above the bootlid are then no longer adequate as the sole source of fresh air..........that's why i was particularly interested in getting more air in via a method that didn't compromise keeping the hot air out(specially exhaust)
Yeah Damo, as displacement and RPM goes up, so does air volume. We all know that the wide fan with a doghouse needs the four vent decklid, and definately keep that exhaust temp OUT! I also like to retain the thermostat flaps, and I also like to have a heat shield attached to the exhaust where it is close to the rear tin ware. VW did this on all type 3 and 4 engines, although many engine builders seem to know better.
Matt
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
matberry wrote:Isn't your fan doing that already at 24 c ft/sec. (@ 4000 rpm)?
If your engine is set up correctly, cooling system, comp. ratio, jetting etc, you shouldn't have any cooling issues!
Not 100% right....................even VW realised that increasing the cc displacement of the motor from 1300 to 1500 and then to 1600 they had to make quite a few changes to the cooling system as well as to the body.
So having a larger displacement motor in an early shell will always run hotter, so yes you will have cooling issues.
Well, it's actually precautions. I've got no interior at the moment and nows the time to stick holes about the place. The 1916 is in and i just got the carbs so ill have it running in the next week or so but wont be able to road test run it.
I also want to go bigger, or sup'd up 1916 in the next year or so, so i want to make sure i get things right now before i get everything in and engineered.
From what i've read and heard it seems most people pop their lid to keep the engine running cool. Mike at vintage said that he put a whole and ducting from below the gearbox through the firewall and that worked. Though i've also been told that while enough air is getting to the engne, not enough hot air is getting out, therefore keeping the engine bay hot.
It's interesting because there are a few different theories but i was hoping to hear practical working applications.
matberry wrote:Isn't your fan doing that already at 24 c ft/sec. (@ 4000 rpm)?
If your engine is set up correctly, cooling system, comp. ratio, jetting etc, you shouldn't have any cooling issues!
Yeah, you are right, and modifying the cooling system and bodyshell etc to support doubling or tripling of the VW's standard 50 or 60hp output is part of that 'set-up'.
What about scoups in the rear guards like porsche have, just a thought. then again if you want to keep it looking standard yours is the way to go but would you be picking up any hot air off the road?
Steve, this is what im going to try. Hopefully enough hot air gets out aswell. Time will tell. Maybe cut holes behind the number plate to see if that will work if issues occur.
The twin vents in a 71 bug engine lid look very much like genuine cabrio vents. Im pretty sure these are what CT (fullnoise) uses in his car, a good panel beater can fit these without any sign foul play.
