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n4t4l1e Casual Dubber

25 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·

#625497
Just at the stages of painting
So far the process
De-ox
Etch prime
Epoxy prime
Then...
I can only smooth, sand and fill (if needed) ontop of the epoxy? Hence why I use the epoxy as etch is stickier and you can't sand or put bog ontop of this?

Is this correct?
Just wasn't sure about etching and epoxying and why I should do both.

Thanks in advance
Nat
x

n4t4l1e Casual Dubber

25 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·

#637403
? Nothing? 🙁

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#637480
The bump did help.
You need the etch to properly bind to the metal, then the epoxy primer provides a substrate that your fillers and paints will adhere to. (Make sure all your products are compatible) I would even recommend sticking with one brand these days for this reason.
I was told this just days ago by the BRS rep, whom I have known for 25 years, he has just become a paint rep after owning/running/working in a panel shop since before I met him. (get the idea, he has lots of expierience)
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

5PL1TDCS10N Insano Dub Head

845 posts · joined Jan 2003 ·

#637537
Body filler needs to be done on bare metal but if you just want to straighten a panel then a hi-build primer will suffice. Make sure you have the correct gun setup for shooting primers(1.8-2.0 tip). Paint is usually 1.4. This is all depending on what brand so get a tech sheet from the paint rep. I also recomm. using a complete paint system(everything from one brand or as recomm. by paint store)

This is how I personally do it but I am self taught. Helbus and Alan(Dasdubber)know alot more.
1: Baremetal- Do rust repair.
2: Treat with Rust Convertor. Leave for a day or two. Then clean surface throughly.
3: Spot repair big repairs w body filler
3: Epoxy Etch Primer
4: High Build Primer
5: Primer Surfacer(which usually is a thinned down version of step 4)
6: Guide coat-sand and repeat step 4 or 5 if ness.
7: Base coat
8: Clear coat

This is a very very rough guide btw so hope it helps-Wayne🙂

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#637538
matberry wrote:The bump did help.
You need the etch to properly bind to the metal, then the epoxy primer provides a substrate that your fillers and paints will adhere to. (Make sure all your products are compatible) I would even recommend sticking with one brand these days for this reason.
I was told this just days ago by the BRS rep, whom I have known for 25 years, he has just become a paint rep after owning/running/working in a panel shop since before I met him. (get the idea, he has lots of expierience)
I should have then said, anyone with more trade expierence please correct me if required.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

n4t4l1e Casual Dubber

25 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·

#649786
Firstly thank you for the bump

And for the info supplied! Fantastic help! 🙂

Will crack on soon and see how I go, will no doubt be back! As I'm grinding and welding at the moment :S

Thanks heaps peeps 😀

Nat
x

helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body

7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·

#649847
matberry has it pretty right. We do mostly $100K plus resto's at my work, and we do

- Bare metal by abrasive blasting
- All metal repairs, rust, lead wiping etc.
- Secondary abrasive blast, as sometime 2-3 months of metal repairs means surface rust again.
- Etch prime
- 2 Part epoxy
- Filler
- Prime
- Putty
- Prime
- Paint

Usually the body is fully rubbed down about 20 times along the way with various grits of sandpaper.
EJ22 into Bay Microbus - Finished project build thread- click on this spot here for info

n4t4l1e Casual Dubber

25 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·

#650302
ace thanks hell bus.

Loads of help and really appreciate it

Nat
x