Awesome works, wondering what your day job is as i can imagine these pipes and bends for exhaust and turbo being manufatcured at work, nice and neat.:thumb
Damm thats a huge savimg on the wallet bloke and again, awesome works.
I know it's a labour of love but have you added the man hrs for such a project?:thumb
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
Iwish4a,
I work in an office all day. This is my release. Actually I'm an Electrical Fitter Mechanic (sparky) by trade but have not done that for a lot of years.
I have been going on this since the first week of Sept 2005 so an average of 8 hours per weekend and 4 hours midweek works out to 912 hours. The beetle in my signature took approximately 1400 hours.
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
Commited or crazy hang on it means the same...
Nice work....
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...
It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose
Look at the date above, more than a year since my last post. A lot of catching up to do.
IT RUNS!! 2 Years 6 Months and 26 Days.
Oil is pouring out of both rocker cover gaskets and a small water leak but I don't care.
There were a couple of problems that delayed me over the last couple of weeks from leaking radiator pipes to a leaking fuel tank but the latest problem was the most frustrating which was turning over, it gives a kick then just continues to turn over. The problems were caused by the following
I did not have the starting wire connected to the ECU. (This was the cause of the initial fire then nothing but cranking)
2 Injectors were seized up so even when it started it only ran on two cylinders. I removed all the injectors and made a cable with a little limit switch to pulse 12 volts to them until they triggered. Gave them a light tap on the outside body also to give them a little help.
It ran rough at first then sorted itself out and idled smoothly and throttled up fine. Still need to read memory for errors but that can wait until tomorrow.
I'm now sitting here drinking a celebratory ale feeling pretty pleased with myself.
It should be engineered and registered the week after Easter as long as I can get hold of some gaskets.
Regards
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
good stuff Brendan.
some more recent pics would be good to see. 👍
Most people seem normal, till you get to know them.
whoo hooo.. pics for sure pls..
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
Next job. Fix the oil leaks.
Rocker cover gaskets, cam oil seals and crankshaft seal. While I'm at it a new timing belt (the motor had done 70k). For the sake of $149 it's worth replacing. Motor is easy to work on in the back of a lowlight.
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
To give you an idea of where I'm at with the van ... pretty close to rego.
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
If I finish the accelerator linkages under the floor today I can take it for a drive.
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
Ahhhhhh my old van, wow she looks great Brendo, splendid job
show us your gates
Here is a couple of the heater core. Was out of a late model hilux, cut down to remove the bypass (I will do that another way) and grafted into the pipe elbow just below the floor. A kombi blower will drive it from behind with a bypass vane on it. There is also a limit switch mounted behind the contols on the dash to start the blower. Everything will look stock in the cab.
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
Drove it yesterday up and down the street. Very smooth with plenty of power. Just have to sort out a couple of things before engineering and blue slip on Friday. Adjust clutch and gear shift. Get that air lock out of the cooling system since I put in the heater core. Might bleed the brakes again as they are a little spongy.
Pics to follow.
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
Nice one Brendan w00t!!!
Problem I found with the airlock..... This is my theory:
Standard Scooby has it's rad (for all intents and purposes) above the block. Air passes up into the rad & gets 'blown' out when the system pressurizes. The stock outlet for the matrix is lower.
Rad situated below the engine as ours have been done... air passes up into the matrix system, whoops.
Here's what I've done (appols for the links)
Schematic:
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1164
Photos:
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=971
(Kev, CleverChap & Evercold are now running 'flow through' matrix tanks)
It works a charm!
Also there's probably a 'high' spot in the low return from the rad, this is a bit of a bugger to bleed. Allow the engine to get to operating temp, a bit of a foot full around the block gets rid of the rest. You could add a bleed point here if you were inclined, only a quick scootch under to bleed it
VSS is still working a charm, my '98 UK spec needed it or the ECU goes to limp home. It's pretty cool running the laptop with the OBD s/w running. I'm OBD-I btw
Keep up the good work mate
😀Hmm,
I have only recently added the heater matrix and the pipe entries are lower than the matrix itself. Before fitting it up underneath the floor I tilted it then filled the coolant until I could feel fluid in both pipes. Only then did I mount it up. I guess air has still found it's way in and is trapped in the core. I might bypass the core again to prove my theory (and get it to engineering on Saturday)
I already have tee off welded into the highest point in both rad pipes. The one from the out of the engine I use for filling as it goes to the high point of the rad and when not disconnected goes back to the stock filler expansion container connection that has the one way valve (in). The other is used for an air bleed when filling as when cold the TStat would be closed and air would be trapped in here.
This system worked fine and the degrees stayed at about 88c with the rad fans cycling on an off with the engine fully warm. The only thing I have changed is adding the heater core and added non pressurised expansion bottle to the overflow. This bottle works ok as the level raises and lowers as it should during operation.
I won't be happy if I have to butcher my heater system to turn it upside down to stop it trapping air.
I'll let you know how I go.
Regards
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
Hi Brendan
The amount of air in the system your talking about would have to be a very small amount, why not just run it and see if burps itself out after a few hills and bumps. You could always put a bleed cock on the heater core.
Steve
Steve,
The heater core is sealed in it's enclosure. I just took the cap off and noticed the level way down. It took a litre of coolant to fill back up. You may be right.
Brendan
Here is a couple of pics of Vanrex's first steps.
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
sweeeeeeet brendo just some youtube for us to hear her growl
show us your gates
Hi Bendan
I was pretty lucky with my Wasser bug, I could fill it to the brim when cold, drive it around and it would top itself up from the overflow. I hope Im as lucky with the next car.
Yep some youtube would be good
Brendan, water vapourises at a lower temp than boiling. Around 70°C and it is noticable. Stick a pan on the hob and watch.
My theory is this happens as the engine warms up and localised hot spots increase this.
When the engine is off (& coolingdown) I'm assuming this continues to happen, to a point. There's no pump to circulate this through the bleed system.
The air/vapor lock sits in the water manifold (high point of block) until you start up again, thermo's now closed, water circulates through the matrix system (path of least resistance)
Some days I hear the gurgle for a few seconds as the air works it's way out - then all's well again.
My theory may well be wrong, but my set up works very well. No holes drilled in 'stats etc
I tried with a single feed header, soooooo much grief!
Looking great in the photos. Shame I can't pop over for a proper look & a beer.
Hi
On a slightly different subject but still concerning bleeding air out. I had a air to water intercooler on my wasser bug, the 12 volt pump was not self primming and was pain to bleed, so I fitted a garden hose fitting in the line before the pump with a shut off valve, I just turned the pump on, closed the valve, turned the hose on and waited for water to come back to the overflow bottle.
I've seen a rig for filling V6 Common doors, it fits to the radiator and sits up about 2 foot, it gives the water a bit of head when filling.
Steve
mmm, good idea. Kimm at indian does this with his crew cab. I might just do that to mine yet. bleeding the heater is a right pain.
1303Steve wrote:Hi
On a slightly different subject but still concerning bleeding air out. I had a air to water intercooler on my wasser bug, the 12 volt pump was not self primming and was pain to bleed, so I fitted a garden hose fitting in the line before the pump with a shut off valve, I just turned the pump on, closed the valve, turned the hose on and waited for water to come back to the overflow bottle.
I've seen a rig for filling V6 Common doors, it fits to the radiator and sits up about 2 foot, it gives the water a bit of head when filling.
Steve
yer i use a big black funnel , i just stick it in the top of radiator and fill it up with water and the air comes up , $2 From Kmart saves money buying that holden filling rig
😂😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
BMW have a neat little pump in their heater system that pumps water through the heater system it works a treat no air block as it pumps the water, it comes on mmost of the 6cylinder models, they also come with electric solenoid heater taps no cables and levers needed just a wire 😎Its good i will be using it on my subaru vw 😎
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Hi
My old Audi turbo had an after electric waterpump on the turbo, it circulated water through the turbo housing to cool it after the motor was turned off and some T4s had them as well.
Steve
Brendan,
I forgot to mention that my water manifold is reversed (all pipes run down)so I couldn't use a header tank like Helbus did.
If mine hadn't been reversed that would have been my 1st choice as it's uphill from that manifold.
Thanks for all the info guys. I started simple and worked at getting rid of the air locks. Seems to work ok. Did about 80 klms today getting the engineering certificate and gennerally it stayed at 90 deg. Sitting in traffic it went up to 95-97deg so it was all good. One thing it was quite cool today.
Oh year it passed Engineering!! Woohoo! I worked until 3:30 am this morning finishing things off. Broke a window mechanism at 2:00am (the neighbours now know about this along with my abilities with expletives).
Now for the real bad news. My clutch plate looks to have disintegrated. A couple of take offs from standing starts (not dumping the clutch) and it shuddered quite bad. Got it home and put it into first to drive up my driveway which is quite steep. No go just sits there and shudders. let it all cool down, set up some little ramps at the gutter and drove at it from the street without stopping to get it in the garage. Opened the engine lid to find clutch dust coating everything, some pieces up to 2mm.
I think my choice of going with a stock clutch plate as the sacrificial component in the driveline a poor one. Matched to a Kennedy Stage 2 the surface appears to not be able to take it.
I hope I can limp it on Monday to get Blue slip and rego.
Happy days the motor is comming out again!!
Any thoughts?
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
Hi Brendan
You must be shattered, what a let down. What size clutch are you running? You have probably already posted this. Maybe get in touch with Kennedy and see what they have.
Steve
Steve,
It's a 200mm Stage 2 Kennedy
Regards
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
Hi Brendan
Kennedy do a 200 mm heavy duty disc for use with V8s on VW tansaxles and a KEP gold that are a bit stronger. I just bought a Kennedy kit so I have all there paperwork in front of me. I think V-Force had some heavy duty 200s as well.
Steve
Steve,
I just had a thought that the front gearbox mount may also be broken so I'll check that out as well. I will go for a heavier plate though and the Kennedy sounds like a good choice.
Brendan
A VW for everyone!!
1972 1302 German Look
1971 Bay Panel with Subaru EJ20T
1970 Type 3 squareback in progress
1971 Type 3 notchback in progress
