its the crank pulley off a 4A toyota
i used to have a 92 CSi corolla and remembered that the alternator belt on them was 5pk same as the blower
the smaller 3pk pulley segment runs a/c and powersteering pump
u need to makesure if u go this way to get the one for a/c and steer
i made alittle breaker bar thing to get the nut undone
assuming urs has the same mr2/SX corolla clutch like mine
the 4 screws on the outer rim that hold the clutch cover on... get a lenth of metal and drill holes to bolt it up to to of them
u can hold this to stop it turning while u undo the nut
i'm running a v belt covering all the bits crank genny blower i found that you could leave the belt loose as per recomended and by using a 2 tenser systek on the down side it only puts pressure on the blower
dont ask my why i have ben racking my small brain and the only reason i can se is that after the blower it must use fung sway or voo doo but it works one side loose and after the first tensioner tight i do use 2 tensioners one for main pressure and the other just after pushing the other way traping the belt in the gap left
i wlill get a happy snap and post
no the tensener is on the other side i will get some pics, about half way down the white 1 pushes in and and a larger dia pulley pushes out i found that it keeps good tension on the belt on the down side by pushing it from the 90% to around 30% and stoping ANY FLEX WHILE THE GENNY SIDE REMAINS SLAVK WELL TO A POINT THE SECRET IS THE V THAT THYE BELT HAS BY MAKING IT SWING UNDER THE BLOWER PULLEY IT MAKES THE DOWN TENSION GREATER THAN THE UP AND OVER TENSION BLOODY CAPS please dont ask me why or how i'm a lunch break drop outit just is
here is a pic of the belts see the differant amount of belt footprint on each pully the more contact the better pull and less is less torque on the bearings i have been playing around with this setup after seeing a write up on hotrod mag an early book before injection
I have had a few blown commodores and was running decent boost but always getting belt slip. I went from 6rib to 8rib and had to tighten up the belts so tight I ended up breaking a bolt off inside the blower shaft.
It was also robbing huge amounts of power from the engine as there was load on the crank a bit like running the AC constantly. I then got a toothed (glimer) belt drive and didn't have to tighten the belts much at all and gain loads of hp. I recommend anyone doing this especially with a VW motor as the crank is only held by the case and to keep overheating from friction under control. My 0.2c.
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
hi Steve, thanks for the pic
if i was starting from scratch again id go that style to but the current 5 rib belt system is working with no slipping
well it only took me 5 and half months of procrastinating but the 1776 is finally back in
so for those interested the 1600 was in for 5.5 months in that time it did 2700kms most of which was round town and out to work and back
but it did one trip to brisbane and back and another up to caloundra for dubs by the pub
the only issues i had in that time were belt/pulley and throttle cable dramas and all were my own fault not the cars
no worries mate if it rocks ya boat good, i just wanted to do it differant this time and cutting the fan shroud had the oppersite effect the right bamk ran hot not the left bank i fixed it by removing the small air choker on that side in the shroud and putting a small one on the left bank making the aip compress a bit allowing the right bamk to get more air i took it to the bugin as it's only done 30 klm's over the tast 5 years and doing that let me see if all was ok and it was
how is yours going good i hope
i couldnt be happier with the way its goin
the way it just eats big hills for breakfast all with a stock 1600 truly blows me away
i used to worry when i saw a big hill coming b4 i fitted it but now it climbs with ease and will actually pick up speed when u put ur foot down not slow down more
ive only driven the 1776 from my parents place to mine which is about 1.5kms but even in that it managed to scare me a bit
coming thro a round about in 2nd i put my foot down leaving and the boost gauge shot up to 10 psi and it was off
really launched me into the seat
i forgot how much a lightend flywheel and cam gets u movign
Turbo54 wrote:I have had a few blown commodores and was running decent boost but always getting belt slip. I went from 6rib to 8rib and had to tighten up the belts so tight I ended up breaking a bolt off inside the blower shaft.
It was also robbing huge amounts of power from the engine as there was load on the crank a bit like running the AC constantly. I then got a toothed (glimer) belt drive and didn't have to tighten the belts much at all and gain loads of hp. I recommend anyone doing this especially with a VW motor as the crank is only held by the case and to keep overheating from friction under control. My 0.2c.
T54
was that on an EFi commy in blow thro format?
it seems these blowers prefer to be in draw thro and thats how they all came from the toyota factory as well
they spin very happilly in a manifold vacuum
when there running aganst the throttle plate is when it starts to have restrictions and then holds the motor back
i can actuallly set my belt pretty loose and still not have much slip till it gets up around 8 psi
If there is ever a cough or back fire it will damage the blower.
I used 10 groove multi vee for my blowers because there were no keys in the drive,
and the spring loaded tensioner will unload if it trys to go backward.
Hi Joel, you mention the cam in your 1776...do you know you don't want too much overlap when using boost? goes straight out the exhaust! anyway top job👍
i dont know what blow back valving you use joe i'm using a wrx blow off and it works sweet had a few big bangs and diden't even stop the enging a really good system
thanks Dave, i agree with u toothed belts are for topfuel dragsters not low PSI street VWS lol
im pretty happy with the way the 5rib belts working out
Rob, cam choice isnt as critical with a supercharger as it is with a turbo but yeah like u said u dont want to much overlap
mines a pretty mild tighe cam its their "fast street twin carb" model and is equivilent to a engle 110
Steve i used a greddy style plumb back BOV so i could plumb it out of the engine bay but thats yet to happen
u can see it infront of the coil in the picture above
its gone off twice when cold starting after i half flooded it
Joel,
Did you consider using the original blow off valve that was on the throttlebody?
I was going to use it and if anyone recommends not doing so let me know....
none of mine came with the recirc bypass valve
i dont know that u could use it for the purpose of spit back protection tho
as all it does is bypass around the supercharger when the clutch isnt engaged
ive also got myself an SC14 supercharger now that im having a tinker around with but so far its like i thought just to long to fit under a bugs decklid
well i guess while im here i should put the link up
i took a vid with the 1776 back in but its a really shitty video cos i cant change gears, steer and film at once with a steady hand
You gotta get that camera mounted in the car dude.... It'll be loads safer and your images will be a little more steady.... specially if your camera has a steady cam function installed...
i need a proper video camera
all those vids on youtube are all just shot on my mobile
it doesnt record sound real well it sounds like im shifting gears like a grandma
the cam in the 1776 seems to agree with the blower ok luckily but this motor having a lightened flywheel really seems to charge upto 3500 but from there on it doesnt feel much different from the 1600 but i havent got the jetting right yet either
mate i have been talking to mick in gelong and he has installed the popjoy 1916 twin spark engine with the supercharger running 10 lb bost stan said it was ok and now he's gone from a blown 1600 getting 83 horses on the dino to the 1916 blown 110 hp shit i'm impressed i think i gave you his email worth a chat
yea ive spoken to mick he gave me his number
but shit me wow.
altho i would of at expected more than 110 at the wheels
stans 1916 standard head motors with Kdogs were good for about 120 at the flywheel....
im still messing around with the jetting on mine
the weather hasnt been very co-operative since i put the 1776 back in a few weeks ago so i havent been able to get it out of the shed much
ive also been ginning around on a spare engine trying to get my new SC14 to fit, its only about 40mm longer but its just that bit to much
it really sux im back to running 3 cars again at the moment which is cleaning me out abit and now all the cheap blowers are popping up
a toyota bloke i know had a low km 12 for $160 the other day...spewin
MMMM I liked this so much I just picked one up for myself. gunna do, gunna do. so excited to start. will have to do a lot of research so i dont stuff it up though
have fun with it
its a long slow process but the end result is worth it
i went abit silly a while back and bought a few extra blowers
i was gonna make up a few kits but then i got lazy and cant be arsed now that and i just dont have time
ill probably put them up for sale soon
ones an SC14 tho
im actuallly already running a smaller pulley than stock on it without a clutch but those ones on ebay are for a SC14 not 12
he does make SC12 pulleys but at $293 u can get entire blowers for that
its already runnning pretty high boost itll hit 10psi in 1st and 2nd which is way to much for a stock bottom end
Thought i'd add to this
I'm running twin AMR500s on a 1640
just because i could 🙂
I'm sure one would be more efficient, but hey, Joel has already done it 👍
it's only been out a few times so its still getting sorted.
jetting etc.
Drawing though DCNs
no blow off as the belts slip on back fire.
trust me 😊
but christ it is a lot louder
need to go some 3ways on the pipes
had extractors but wanted to expose the engine 😎
