yeah the case also im thinking of getting a cb aluminium "super case" which is already clearanced for 86mm stroke.
so should i decide to up the cc down the track could replace the 69mm crank with any other of choice without too much hassle.
im formerly known as 71superbug...
"what kinda creator would make a race of people
and make em act a certain way or else He deems 'em evil?
HOW can You give a living being the freedom to breathe
and then lead em into a sea of decievers who greet em, see!"
I have an old type 3 TLE engine I was given by a friend. I was thinking of going up to a 1641 but that sort of screws up which class I'd fit into for khanacrosses. So a 1916 is a better option if I plan to have the case machined at all for bigger pots. So, what can expect with everything else standard (crank/rods/heads) but just 94mm pots? I am talking ultra budget. How long would it all last? What will be the difference or should I stay with a stock 1584? The longterm plan is a turbo setup of some sort. 😉
p.s. this would all go in a midmount tubeframe car with swingaxle and a BJ front beam.
pete wood wrote:p.s. this would all go in a midmount tubeframe car with swingaxle and a BJ front beam.
Hawhawhaw Pete, IRS....IRS....IRS....IRS is your mantra.
Cant you see it? With those lush fabricated tubular upper and lower "A" arms and uprights? (TSV is drooling) pushrod suspension along the top of the geabox and adjustable inboard roll bars, inboard disks............................ ahhhhhhhhhh.................(dreams for F-Vee)!!!
SRY a bit off topic, but........
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
ally case, full flowed
scat h-beams
72mm stroke crank (to get closer to the 2000cc mark)
w130 engle cam
standard rockers
cb wedge port heads with 42, 37 valves
and running dual fuel injection throttle bodies like the one vw paradise sell, fully programmable.
hey dave what kind of a shorter rod would you run? I looked at using my 1200 rods in my 1915 but looked a bit week.
The 1800 type 4 can be lightened and rebushed for use in type 1.
But I was thinking more of a custom rod like the Pauter or Carrillo.
Many moons ago, Bergs tried a Ford 289 Windsor and 170 persuit rod.
These are a tad longer and shorter respectively, than 5".
The short rods also need BDC interference checking and clearancing, of the pin boss of the piston.
1200 rods are weak looking, but I have seen them survive OK in 7000rpm 1835 drag engine.
It had 20mm pins, but I would be scared to use them myself with 22 pin.
Possibly removing the bush and hone the hole with a graphite or teflon coating in the hole.
Now I am rambling.
Bolt may also be an issue.
Shorter rod may need a slightly wider lobe centre and a little more duration on camshaft.
94 p & c's
69 counterweighted, re ground to 72.3 (or about that, to give 1999.99cc's)
Std mag case (PRC has to use original case material if i ever want to go down that path)
H beam rods-Chevy journal
engle 120
1.25:1 ratio rockers, (with the 120, 253 dur @ 0.050', and just .496' lift)
Cb wedge port, slightly tidied up (top spec)
cromo push rods
billet followers etc
twin 48 ida's
1 5/8 exhuast
plus lots of other bits and pieces.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
my 1916 would be right up daimo's alley,
69mm old forged berg crank
prob go with carrillo's
welded 044's maybe moved exhaust guides 44X37.5 gb 1.4 rockers
gb316 cam
dry sumped
48 ida's
as21
would be old school but fun!
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
94 p & c's
69 counterweighted, re ground to 72.3 (or about that, to give 1999.99cc's)
Std mag case (PRC has to use original case material if i ever want to go down that path)
H beam rods-Chevy journal
engle 120
1.25:1 ratio rockers, (with the 120, 253 dur @ 0.050', and just .496' lift)
Cb wedge port, slightly tidied up (top spec)
cromo push rods
billet followers etc
twin 48 ida's
1 5/8 exhuast
Here is my ultimate street 1915.
This combo would most likely change depending on what the final use is,
but I would drive this on the road no worries.
For specific racing use, I would up the cam and comp and use larger venturies, and shorter rods.
CW crank.
FW about 12lbs(8 dowel).
Clutch around 1700lbs with stock disc and pressure plate located tight in FW.
C95 cam with stock rockers or
V26 Engle with 1.5 rockers.
Stock length rods(I like the scat H-beams or eagles ( good value))
"B" piston kit and shortened barrells
(That way can use short pushrods)
Stock early oil pump.
Crank ground to give 1.5 thou clearance on rods and 2.0 on mains.
Cam bearings oil clearance checked, and ground .25 if oil clearance exceeds .002".
small deep sump.
9.0:1 with .040 deck
Out of the box(porting) CB wedge ports, with spring shims fitted,
but flycut to attain comp reqd(maintaining tight deck).
48IDAs with 37 vents, dowelled manifolds to heads.
Max 1 5/8 merge.
Stock late cooling system.
For racing-only I would use a shorter rod,
but fanshroud to carb clearance and fitting it, is an issue for street use.
whats the advantage of this combo, would it be a higher reving engine? how hard would it be to fit the standard tin ware?
Craig Torrens wrote:Here's my 1916 power..............POBJOY of course, is there any other ?
i think there are a couple of people that have dared to risk the copyright infringment.😂
who looks after Cambells 1916, it seems to go really well?
does EFI add to a final horsepower reading or just make an engine more driveable throughout the rev range?......
....i've been told this is a similar feeling from the twin plugs, is that the case for those that have upgraded to it?........
....i suppose i would be pushing my luck for before and after dyno sheets for that upgrade? (ps i looked at the set up of them at Stans and like the value, execution and principle behind it, i long for detailed pictures that i wasn't game to ask to take as it was a while ago)...........
sooooooooooo would it be a worthwhile thing for me to go to twin plugs and EFI ? even with thoughts towards computer contolled ignition too boot
for sure i like D.B's combo back on page one, seems a little familiar
Fully flowed and clearanced RIMCO case (for that future upgrade if needed 👍)
CB performance MAXI 3 full flow pump - blueprinted
CB performance lightweight lifters
Scat 1.25:1 4340 pro comp ratio rockers
CB performance 2242 camshaft (294 intake duration)
CB performance Magnum 8640 chromoly straight cut gear set
New Steve Timms ported and cc'd 043 heads, 40x35 valves, ported, chromoly retainers, stainless valves, dual springs (to run 8:1 static compression)
Match ported intake manifolds
44 IDF Webers
CB 69mm welded crankshaft with 8 dowels, balanced
Scat 4340 chromoly I beam rods with ARP bolts
12lb german forged flywheel, 8 dowelled.
Gene berg deep sump extension (1.5 lt extra oil approx)
Aircooled.net 6160 alloy pushrods
New Mahle A's P&B that have been balanced
1 5/8 s/s (supposed to be s/s) sidewinder exhaust
Bosch 009 with compufire module
MSD 6AL ignition and MSD blaster 2 coil
Scat billet serpantine pulley kit
I've a pair of 48mm EFI throttle bodies for it in the shed too. Not 100% sure it's worth the dollar outlay to upgrade to EFI though... Quick estimates indicate around $2-$3k could easily be spent all upon the entire EFI conversion.... hmmm
94 p & c's
69 counterweighted, re ground to 72.3 (or about that, to give 1999.99cc's)
Std mag case (PRC has to use original case material if i ever want to go down that path)
H beam rods-Chevy journal
engle 120
1.25:1 ratio rockers, (with the 120, 253 dur @ 0.050', and just .496' lift)
Cb wedge port, slightly tidied up (top spec)
cromo push rods
billet followers etc
twin 48 ida's
1 5/8 exhuast
plus lots of other bits and pieces.
Any updates on your motor Bix ?
Yep it was built last year, and has been running, Only done one event, as rallying has taken all my time and money. But aim stopping the rally for a while to focus on my own car. it is a bit of a screamer engine. Not much below 3k, then comes on very strong to 6k plus. Will rev right out to 7k plus. No major issues and will be taken to dyno day here in july.....
Edit - One issue....noise!!! with the 48ida's and 1 5/8 exhaust and fatboy, we estimate over 98dB.... maybe even 100, so need to make it quieter for mt cotton and lakeside.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
You will need an early 6 volt crank due to the oil holes location, and you must nitride again to get the hard surface suitable.
The one I have seen had extra large radii to help with strength,
but still flexed around enough to cause a fron pulley leak.
Counterweighting would help,
but all this costs more to do than an off-the-shelf china steel-nitrided 78 (not cast).
Do that with a 94 bore and you will be very happy.
Just what I'm building for a trike now Dave, but as you know I had issues with the crank needing work, and now the CB heads, one getting replaced by CB for a casting flaw after the chambers were finished !!!! DOH !
Still 2165 seems a nice combo, worked in the chop for a few years that saw up to 9000 RPM, shame the heads couldn't keep up !
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Ive had the offset ground crank and modified Golf rods for a couple of years. Where in WA would you get the crank Nitrided?
Also any thoughts on a heavier front pully to dampen vibration? Though Im happy just for a little more power and limit the revs to around 5k.
The package is leaning towards 90.5 B pots, welded heads (40 inlet 35 exhaust), 12lb 8 dowl flywheel, compression a tad under 10:1, twin SUs (45mm - cos' I have them on the shelf), the AP3 cam, 009 ( or 010) dizzy.
Newt
As a topic for conversation - whats the diference in drive-abilty of a 78x90.5 verses 69x94????
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
Price, i haven't really added it up...... but 5 figures..... Everything was new except for the dizzy and coil. Plus the machine work and treatment of the crank etc adds cost, barrels, pistons and chambers are ceramic coated etc etc. It was built to run as a club car, ie be able to drive on the street when required. No problem doing a trip to sydney for racing, but also at the same time not meant to do weekly duties.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
If it wanted to get a bigger engine would i be better off building my own, eg buying parts and putting them toget or would i be better of buying a turnkey one.
What are the best increases, like cylinder wall thicknesses etc. I just wanna know a rough price on each one as well.
I want to use it as a daily so no wild fuel guzzling carbs and something with enought tourqe to pull a snall boat out of the water but enough top end to cruise at 110-120kms without being super loud. And i wanna be able to do some burnouts. And must have straight cut gears, love that wine.
Cheers, if this isnt in the right spot please move it.
