555bug WRX Bug Boy
1,123 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
i have some picture somewhere of a car thats had about 20cm added through the middle. Massive job stay clear 🙂
2443 Twin turbo street bug project, back on track again.
westi what the
1,610 posts · joined Aug 2005 ·
seeing what horrible people are up to with there evil ways.
maybe praying for us to be saved.
i got no idea.
maybe praying for us to be saved.
i got no idea.
down sharon.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
That is what the genius' did at VW with the super bug...well, at the front.555bug wrote:a car thats had about 20cm added through the middle. 🙂
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Well with westi's words ringing in my ears... or perhaps that just the side effect of all the grinding ive been doing... I started to chop away at parts of the body to make everything fit nice and snug.
Im pretty happy with how everything lined up too. It looks like only the left side of the floor pan up the front got a little heat distorted from the welding. The gap torwards the front is only a few mm so it will probably tighten up once ther eis a rubber seal in there.
Ive also begun mocking up a new stronger section to join the left and right side of the body again over the gearbox nose cone. It will be entirely metal for strength. The bolt in panels will alloy plate.
Pics...
A little raised gearbox clearencing.
Looks like I got the placement of the steering just right. Linking the steering with a pair of universals is going to be very easy from the looks of it.
Thats all for now... should have another update tomorrow hopefully.
Cheers,
Ian
Im pretty happy with how everything lined up too. It looks like only the left side of the floor pan up the front got a little heat distorted from the welding. The gap torwards the front is only a few mm so it will probably tighten up once ther eis a rubber seal in there.
Ive also begun mocking up a new stronger section to join the left and right side of the body again over the gearbox nose cone. It will be entirely metal for strength. The bolt in panels will alloy plate.
Pics...
A little raised gearbox clearencing.
Looks like I got the placement of the steering just right. Linking the steering with a pair of universals is going to be very easy from the looks of it.
Thats all for now... should have another update tomorrow hopefully.
Cheers,
Ian
JVLRacing Custom Title Time!
1,100 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·
scary man you are!looks good Ian
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE All people have the right to stupidity but some abuse the pr
2,534 posts · joined Mar 2007 ·
Loving it mate. Work of art!!
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
Mick058 Custom Title Time!
1,580 posts · joined Jan 2008 ·
You and Westi are blowing me away. Looks the goods.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
Hi Ian, nice progress.
I had forgotten how big that tranny was, man it is a monster.
When you go for "a pair of universals",
you will need a small bearing at the lower end of the column tube.
I had forgotten how big that tranny was, man it is a monster.
When you go for "a pair of universals",
you will need a small bearing at the lower end of the column tube.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
ricola Wolfsburg Wizard
437 posts · joined Feb 2003 ·
Or maybe use a column from a super?dangerous wrote:When you go for "a pair of universals",
you will need a small bearing at the lower end of the column tube.
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Thats all easy stuff! I'll just buy a small bearing and machine up some sort of sleve to hold it snug at the end of the steering column. Whats proving to be a pain in the ass though is getting a universal with the correct size spline for the 924 steering rack.
Well today i made a little more progress. I now have a frame work of sorts 3/4 welded into place for the firewall and reenforcing the body to make up for all the metal I cut out of it yesterday. Ive used 20x20x3 angle and 13x3 flat bar to make up the framework. I'll be spot welding 1mm steel plate to the framework to seal it all in.
I am considering running some steel wiring tubes to the engine bay as well. The plan is to make the car easy to work on, so easy accesibility to all mechanical parts and wiring access is essental. Any improvement I can make will be a welcome one.
It took 3 hrs to remove the induction system from the previous engine setup to allow spark plug access. I want to be able to get access to any part on the engine or anywhere else on the driveline in just a few minutes with this version of the car.
Last of all... no pics today. I'll be sure to take some tomorrow when the framework is finished.
Cheers,
Ian
Well today i made a little more progress. I now have a frame work of sorts 3/4 welded into place for the firewall and reenforcing the body to make up for all the metal I cut out of it yesterday. Ive used 20x20x3 angle and 13x3 flat bar to make up the framework. I'll be spot welding 1mm steel plate to the framework to seal it all in.
I am considering running some steel wiring tubes to the engine bay as well. The plan is to make the car easy to work on, so easy accesibility to all mechanical parts and wiring access is essental. Any improvement I can make will be a welcome one.
It took 3 hrs to remove the induction system from the previous engine setup to allow spark plug access. I want to be able to get access to any part on the engine or anywhere else on the driveline in just a few minutes with this version of the car.
Last of all... no pics today. I'll be sure to take some tomorrow when the framework is finished.
Cheers,
Ian
Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus
5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
2443TT wrote:I'll be spot welding 1mm steel plate to the framework to seal it all in.
hey Ian - looking good mate!
Although I'm sure it will be revealed in time, but how are you arranging your access "hatch" in the steel plate - DZUS fastened/screwed/bolted etc?
Cheers
Al
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Hi ya all,
Well today was a day of non stop interruptions from indecicive customers, so I didnt get a lot done. But I did come close to finishing my new firewall. Its made out of 3mm flat bar and 3mm angle. The long horizontal brace has one angle bar welded at an angle inside another piece of angle bar, to increase its rigidity and to provide the correct angles for the sections of the firewall that will bolt into place. Does that make sense?.. Everything from the horizontal bar forwards will have 1-1.5mm plate spot welded to it, and then be sealed from the back and re-painted.
I'll be using screws to hold the plate in place. You may be able to see the rear sections of the firewall supports are screwed in place (in the pics above, not these two below). They have thread inserts crimped into them. All that remains is making up the pieces that link the steel section to the alloy sections. The firewall will be one large piece with a fold across the middle.
So tomorrow is going to be finishing the firewall, and contemplating how to make a removable rear end.
Well today was a day of non stop interruptions from indecicive customers, so I didnt get a lot done. But I did come close to finishing my new firewall. Its made out of 3mm flat bar and 3mm angle. The long horizontal brace has one angle bar welded at an angle inside another piece of angle bar, to increase its rigidity and to provide the correct angles for the sections of the firewall that will bolt into place. Does that make sense?.. Everything from the horizontal bar forwards will have 1-1.5mm plate spot welded to it, and then be sealed from the back and re-painted.
I'll be using screws to hold the plate in place. You may be able to see the rear sections of the firewall supports are screwed in place (in the pics above, not these two below). They have thread inserts crimped into them. All that remains is making up the pieces that link the steel section to the alloy sections. The firewall will be one large piece with a fold across the middle.
So tomorrow is going to be finishing the firewall, and contemplating how to make a removable rear end.
reub VWRX is gone...
2,054 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Cool dude👍
Reub
VWCOOL 23 Windows of Awesome
5,158 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·
G'day Marko!
Pay your debts, CxxT
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Hi Marko,
Welcome to the forum, but by all means start your own threads. This thread is for the rebuild of my car..
Regards,
Ian
Welcome to the forum, but by all means start your own threads. This thread is for the rebuild of my car..
Regards,
Ian
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Hi all,
I didnt get much acomplished on the weekend, decided to take it easy for the most part instead, although I did cut the entire rear end off the car. 2 days of planning to do 5 minutes of cutting. Its all turned out very well and has allowed me to finalise the plan for my twin turbo manifold, and intercooler placement.
Today I finished the firewall as well, except for the attachment of the sheet metal which will happen some time this week.
Next on the list is creating the new sealing air level to stop the cooling system recirculating hot air, and also to duct air from the intercoolers into the engine bay. I am about to have to learn a little more about sheet metal work that I can remember from grade 10 metalwork. Should be an interesting challange.
Last of all... here are the latest progress pics of my Rocky Jennings engine case. Trial assembly of the bottom end with an 88mm flanged crank and custom bearings is done. Im told that all that remains is completion of the oil pickup... then one week later it will be in my workshop and engine assembly can begin! Woo hoo! Not long till I need an engine to mock up the header on, so timing is perfect.
Cheers,
Ian
I didnt get much acomplished on the weekend, decided to take it easy for the most part instead, although I did cut the entire rear end off the car. 2 days of planning to do 5 minutes of cutting. Its all turned out very well and has allowed me to finalise the plan for my twin turbo manifold, and intercooler placement.
Today I finished the firewall as well, except for the attachment of the sheet metal which will happen some time this week.
Next on the list is creating the new sealing air level to stop the cooling system recirculating hot air, and also to duct air from the intercoolers into the engine bay. I am about to have to learn a little more about sheet metal work that I can remember from grade 10 metalwork. Should be an interesting challange.
Last of all... here are the latest progress pics of my Rocky Jennings engine case. Trial assembly of the bottom end with an 88mm flanged crank and custom bearings is done. Im told that all that remains is completion of the oil pickup... then one week later it will be in my workshop and engine assembly can begin! Woo hoo! Not long till I need an engine to mock up the header on, so timing is perfect.
Cheers,
Ian
MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth
3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·
Yummm.....😵💫
tssnq.com.au
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Hi all,
Today I finished the two rear body to chassis mounts off, and half completed the rear-apron re-attachment. Ive used some old urathane swaybar mounts, some 3mm plate and a few bolts to attach the body to the rear suspension bracing.
The whole rear end of the car gets pretty flexable when you start cutting away at the rear wheel arches, so ive welded in some steel tube to the apron and the wheel arch to make the whole lot rigid again. It also will server as the lower mount to supporting the rear apron. I will just be bolting it on with some 10mm threaded rod that gets inserted through the length of the tube. I'll do the top part of the apron mount tomorrow.
I also ordered my aero guard kit from vintage vee dub this week. Thursday is the hopeful arrive date, so I might be trial fitting guards come the weekend. They will need another 50-60mm added to them as well to clear the 8's and 10's.
I solved the steering link-up issue too. Tracked down a factory twin universal porsche 944 steering shaft, removed from a wreck in perfect condition. You wouldnt believe what australian porsche dismantelers want to charge for even a flogged ot one. Found it in the us for $25.
Here's today's pics...
Cheers,
Ian
Today I finished the two rear body to chassis mounts off, and half completed the rear-apron re-attachment. Ive used some old urathane swaybar mounts, some 3mm plate and a few bolts to attach the body to the rear suspension bracing.
The whole rear end of the car gets pretty flexable when you start cutting away at the rear wheel arches, so ive welded in some steel tube to the apron and the wheel arch to make the whole lot rigid again. It also will server as the lower mount to supporting the rear apron. I will just be bolting it on with some 10mm threaded rod that gets inserted through the length of the tube. I'll do the top part of the apron mount tomorrow.
I also ordered my aero guard kit from vintage vee dub this week. Thursday is the hopeful arrive date, so I might be trial fitting guards come the weekend. They will need another 50-60mm added to them as well to clear the 8's and 10's.
I solved the steering link-up issue too. Tracked down a factory twin universal porsche 944 steering shaft, removed from a wreck in perfect condition. You wouldnt believe what australian porsche dismantelers want to charge for even a flogged ot one. Found it in the us for $25.
Here's today's pics...
Cheers,
Ian
555bug WRX Bug Boy
1,123 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
nice work, i should try to get up north again just to see it 🙂
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Hi all,
Finished the detachable rear apron mounts today. It was very time coming up with a method to positively locate the rear apron so it fit correctly every time. In the end i came up with the idea of using hinges that would normally allow a door to be lifted off the other hinge so to speak. With the hinge folded close on itself the holes line up and it allows a bolt to go through to lock it in place.
So thats the jist of it. The rear apron slides onto the two hinge dowels and then has two 6mm bolts go through the hinge holes to hold them together. Then 10mm threadded rod is slid in the horizontal tubes and bolted at each end. Last of all there is another 6mm bolt with large washers each side that bolts through the inner wheel well at the point of one of the large square edges. The result is a lot more rigid than i expected.
So with that done i put the rear wheels back on and spent the next 2 hrs cleaning up my workshop. Here's todays progress pics. Doesnt look further along than yesterday, but at least it feels like im making some progress. It should be a car again sometime in the next 2-4 months all going well...
That is all...
Ian
Finished the detachable rear apron mounts today. It was very time coming up with a method to positively locate the rear apron so it fit correctly every time. In the end i came up with the idea of using hinges that would normally allow a door to be lifted off the other hinge so to speak. With the hinge folded close on itself the holes line up and it allows a bolt to go through to lock it in place.
So thats the jist of it. The rear apron slides onto the two hinge dowels and then has two 6mm bolts go through the hinge holes to hold them together. Then 10mm threadded rod is slid in the horizontal tubes and bolted at each end. Last of all there is another 6mm bolt with large washers each side that bolts through the inner wheel well at the point of one of the large square edges. The result is a lot more rigid than i expected.
So with that done i put the rear wheels back on and spent the next 2 hrs cleaning up my workshop. Here's todays progress pics. Doesnt look further along than yesterday, but at least it feels like im making some progress. It should be a car again sometime in the next 2-4 months all going well...
That is all...
Ian
Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus
5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Great progress Ian - hats off to you!
What will the plans be for running boards between the extended aero guards?
Al
What will the plans be for running boards between the extended aero guards?
Al
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
I havnt thought that far ahead yet... Though my old running boards are billet alloy I dont think they will look right considerign how much wider the guards are going to have to be. I guess I'll be dealing with that matter soon enough when ive got some widened guards on the car inside the 2-3 weeks.
0 posts · joined Feb 2005 ·
Thats a good looking project.... very impressive. I am always amazed aty how small the boxer engine is in comparison with the car. I admit I haven't read the whole thread and I was curious to know what size rims and rubber you ended up with as it looks like a really good proportion for the car.... Thanks and keep up the good work.
2443TT wrote:Hi all,
I didnt get much acomplished on the weekend, decided to take it easy for the most part instead, although I did cut the entire rear end off the car. 2 days of planning to do 5 minutes of cutting. Its all turned out very well and has allowed me to finalise the plan for my twin turbo manifold, and intercooler placement.
Today I finished the firewall as well, except for the attachment of the sheet metal which will happen some time this week.
Next on the list is creating the new sealing air level to stop the cooling system recirculating hot air, and also to duct air from the intercoolers into the engine bay. I am about to have to learn a little more about sheet metal work that I can remember from grade 10 metalwork. Should be an interesting challange.
Last of all... here are the latest progress pics of my Rocky Jennings engine case. Trial assembly of the bottom end with an 88mm flanged crank and custom bearings is done. Im told that all that remains is completion of the oil pickup... then one week later it will be in my workshop and engine assembly can begin! Woo hoo! Not long till I need an engine to mock up the header on, so timing is perfect.
Cheers,
Ian
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Hi all,
Time for an update.
On the engine front i got an email from Rocky Jennings saying my engine case is ready to be shipped. With any luck it will be here in 2-3 weeks.
My guards arrived from Vintage Vee Dub last week. After trial fitting them ive started about cutting them up to, to widen them another 90mm to clear the wheels.
So here they are, one 1/2 done and the other held together with cable ties for the moment. Ive used pieces of my old carbon fibre firewall cut into rectangles and a whole lot of cable ties to hold the base shape before it all gets glassed into place. The carbon parts will then be ground out of the inside of the guard from beind with a flapper disc on an angle grinder.
This is something i learned a few years ago when making my first porsche fan shround. Fiberglass resin does not stick to plastic packaging tape. With the cable ties holding everything in place I then used tape to fill in the gaps and seal it all up.
And from the other side here it is with two layers of glass matting in it. Its not meant to be structual, its just to hold the shape. The structual part will be built up from the other side and then the inside will be grinded back so it is all the same thickness. I dont want to make them too heavy.
When the resin is hard i peel off the tape and then build up the other side. I hope to finish them off tomorrow. Thats is all for now.
Ian
Time for an update.
On the engine front i got an email from Rocky Jennings saying my engine case is ready to be shipped. With any luck it will be here in 2-3 weeks.
My guards arrived from Vintage Vee Dub last week. After trial fitting them ive started about cutting them up to, to widen them another 90mm to clear the wheels.
So here they are, one 1/2 done and the other held together with cable ties for the moment. Ive used pieces of my old carbon fibre firewall cut into rectangles and a whole lot of cable ties to hold the base shape before it all gets glassed into place. The carbon parts will then be ground out of the inside of the guard from beind with a flapper disc on an angle grinder.
This is something i learned a few years ago when making my first porsche fan shround. Fiberglass resin does not stick to plastic packaging tape. With the cable ties holding everything in place I then used tape to fill in the gaps and seal it all up.
And from the other side here it is with two layers of glass matting in it. Its not meant to be structual, its just to hold the shape. The structual part will be built up from the other side and then the inside will be grinded back so it is all the same thickness. I dont want to make them too heavy.
When the resin is hard i peel off the tape and then build up the other side. I hope to finish them off tomorrow. Thats is all for now.
Ian
reub VWRX is gone...
2,054 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·
Gonna be a fat bug dude...
I like it - and so does Rach 😉
I like it - and so does Rach 😉
Reub
mactaylor Custom Title Time!
1,005 posts · joined Aug 2007 ·
you could have a picnic on those guards!!! good old cable ties gotta love them
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
1800 552 123
trickysimon 100km/h is only 9 seconds away
1,473 posts · joined Dec 2007 ·
Forget regular fat chicks. THIS is a fat chick.
Simon
Simon
pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
Ian, great work. your rear framing looks very similar to what I'm up to at the mo. I know what you mean about the lack of support to the rear when you get rid of bodywork. I busted both gusset going from the torsion tube to the pan last year when I got mine slightly airbourne. The fix is a plate and bar system that ties everything together, shock mounts, frame horns, cage, etc. All triangulated of course. I'm very jealous of your strut front end. Wish I'd done that myself in the beginning...stinkin king and link pins! 😬
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
Brad Wolfsburg Elder
3,764 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
mm very interesting, while I must say I take my hate off to you for doing this those guards just look wrong. Not that I can think of a better way to do it, surely there must be a better option than screwing the proportions up so much2443TT wrote:
2443TT Fahrvergnugen
962 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Hi everyone,
Pete i'd be interested in seeing what you did with your additional reenforcing, if you could take a pic or two and post it up i'd appreciate it. Ive got to add a little more steel to the pan to provide some better roll cage supports before the body comes off, but the goal in my case is to cage the chassis and keep it as rigid as possible. I dont want to go cracking the body when it starts to twist under the torque from the engine.
Brad, thanks for the honesty. I dont think there is any other way of doing what im doing though. Because the car is so much wider than normal there is no way it can ever look normal.
But thats not the look im going for this time. Insane over the top is the goal here. The front is stitting 50mm too high at the moment too. The front springs are 6kg/mm and they need to be 1.5-1.75kg/mm. Even filling the luggage compartment with spare steel wheels an crap i couldnt get it any lower than about 2.5cm. The back has to go down about 2cm as well. The idea is to hide about 1-1.5cm of the tyre inside the guard. Ride height will be about 120mm at steet height, and on its guts it will be about 80mm.
Here are the latest pics. Both front guards are widened now and still need propper re-enforcing but the basic shape is right and they measure the same. I started the rears today as well. Slow progress as i also had visitors chatting to me all afternoon but I still got some work done.
Thats all for now.
Ian
Pete i'd be interested in seeing what you did with your additional reenforcing, if you could take a pic or two and post it up i'd appreciate it. Ive got to add a little more steel to the pan to provide some better roll cage supports before the body comes off, but the goal in my case is to cage the chassis and keep it as rigid as possible. I dont want to go cracking the body when it starts to twist under the torque from the engine.
Brad, thanks for the honesty. I dont think there is any other way of doing what im doing though. Because the car is so much wider than normal there is no way it can ever look normal.
But thats not the look im going for this time. Insane over the top is the goal here. The front is stitting 50mm too high at the moment too. The front springs are 6kg/mm and they need to be 1.5-1.75kg/mm. Even filling the luggage compartment with spare steel wheels an crap i couldnt get it any lower than about 2.5cm. The back has to go down about 2cm as well. The idea is to hide about 1-1.5cm of the tyre inside the guard. Ride height will be about 120mm at steet height, and on its guts it will be about 80mm.
Here are the latest pics. Both front guards are widened now and still need propper re-enforcing but the basic shape is right and they measure the same. I started the rears today as well. Slow progress as i also had visitors chatting to me all afternoon but I still got some work done.
Thats all for now.
Ian