update..
pics from the alignment shop
finally got the Brantz sensor (really appreciate all of you quys!!!) and plug in this behind the speedometer with a little modification in the speedo cable.
..hope by end of the day to solve the rpm issue..
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grmmm can you tell me what gen your engine is ?
In OZ the EJ20NA JDM SOHC would be like a gen 3, ie 97 on and be OBD2 with a 3 Plug 16 Bit ECU. ( yes I see that it is JDM (Jap Domestic Market) but they had a few options.) If you don't know what year it is have a look under the oil filler cap and there will be a year stamped there.
Reason I ask is that is will make a difference to what pin you want to use to get the ECU code out of it.
On the gen 1 and gen 2 EJ series engines the "limp" mod will limit the revs to around 1200 RPM and a speed sensor will not cause it go into "limp" mod.
Have to checked your charge circuit ? if the ECU is not getting 11.9v as a bare minimum it will go into limp mod. It preffers 12.9 - 13.9 but limp will not kick into 11.9 or lower.
There are a heap of other things to check such as your AFM, a bad connection or faulty unit will kick in limp and limit your revs.
What happens if you reset (or leave your ECU unplugged for 15mins) does the problem go away for a while or is it straight back agin when you run it ?
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaBuggy Brad wrote:In OZ the EJ20NA JDM SOHC would be like a gen 3, ie 97 on and be OBD2 with a 3 Plug 16 Bit ECU. ( yes I see that it is JDM (Jap Domestic Market) but they had a few options.) If you don't know what year it is have a look under the oil filler cap and there will be a year stamped there.
Appols for butting in here. You might like some info on UK spec to add to your list... Mine's a 97-98 EJ20 NA. OBD-I, 9 pin (actually 10 pin but one's a taboo)
Reason I ask is that is will make a difference to what pin you want to use to get the ECU code out of it.
On the gen 1 and gen 2 EJ series engines the "limp" mod will limit the revs to around 1200 RPM and a speed sensor will not cause it go into "limp" mod.
Mine does require the VSS to be fully functional. She'll basically cut the ign if you hold a constant throttle for more than a couple of mins. (Not good when overtaking at 80 odd mph!)
Also the VSS is one of the 2 variables for fan operation, the other is temperature. The fan cuts in at 95°C at under 55mph. As I said, this is only for your reference.
ElusiveStranger wrote:Buggy Brad wrote:In OZ the EJ20NA JDM SOHC would be like a gen 3, ie 97 on and be OBD2 with a 3 Plug 16 Bit ECU. ( yes I see that it is JDM (Jap Domestic Market) but they had a few options.) If you don't know what year it is have a look under the oil filler cap and there will be a year stamped there.
Appols for butting in here. You might like some info on UK spec to add to your list... Mine's a 97-98 EJ20 NA. OBD-I, 9 pin (actually 10 pin but one's a taboo)
Reason I ask is that is will make a difference to what pin you want to use to get the ECU code out of it.
On the gen 1 and gen 2 EJ series engines the "limp" mod will limit the revs to around 1200 RPM and a speed sensor will not cause it go into "limp" mod.
Mine does require the VSS to be fully functional. She'll basically cut the ign if you hold a constant throttle for more than a couple of mins. (Not good when overtaking at 80 odd mph!)
Also the VSS is one of the 2 variables for fan operation, the other is temperature. The fan cuts in at 95°C at under 55mph. As I said, this is only for your reference.
Sweet, thanks heaps for the info, always happy to learn more.
Is your a twin cam or a single cam ?
Got any pics of the ECU / Engine ?
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaWell...
after many thoughts and discusions over this forum regarding the rpm issue i have,finally at the end the problem was solved by whome?? but ofcourse by you guys!!!
We plug the vss sensor behind the speedometer and give to it the correct signal from the ECU.The only extra adjustment we had to do was to make longer the speedo cable in order to attach it in the back of vss.And then voila!The engine revs to limit high of 6500rpms without problem and right now it starts to feel like a true sleeper in the road and reminds me what are the true benefits of this transplant!!!!!!!!!!For the moment i've attached a digital rev meter and make some adjustments.
Next plans are finally to add the rear spacers and raise the suspension.
Again thanks & regards to everybody help me pass this issue and more to come next week...
Cheers,
Jim
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.gr@ Jim : Glad you got it sorted fella. Nice ride (sorry I forgot to say that before)
@ Brad: Single cam, can do you photos for sure of the ECU.
You still haven't sent me any stickers though!!!! (I got the TB inverter off you, about 18 mths ago)
Engine photos at:
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=638
Ignore the header tank in that, it caused me grief
Here's the updated one:
http://www.vwkd.co.uk/bb/viewtopic.php?t=971Thanks ElusiveStranger!
More things to come over the next month...!!!
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grupdate..
TMI interior karpets in and still to come the spacers for rear wheels(CSP is a bit slow
👎)but these doesnt bother me to test the car daily in the roads..
The pedal opens the butterfly needs some modification in order to get full throtle,some hoses will be changed with silicon ,a set of running boards to be install and i assume that at the end of the month i will be ready to go in the dyno and plug the Dastek unichip ECU!!!
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In car video recorded by myshelf(bit dangerous in the road by one hand + friends cars)
http://bugaru.gr/?page_id=14
rgrds,
Jim
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grAgain the problem appears in the VSS.It stops to give signal in to the ECU..
Can i bypass the error code and if yes how can i do it?
Also until now no way found on how to read from my 14pin OBD..
Please see attached pictures and if anyone knows anything about this problem please advice.
The OBD slot appears with read color.
Regards,
Jimmy
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grThet looks a lot like an OBD1 Plug but I will have a look for you, as I am doing a 3 Plug loom on the weekend. Down here the OBD1's ran until about 97 and where usually orange in colour. Being a JDM though I would have thought it was similiar. I note on the ECU it has 2007 written, is yours a 2007 model ?
I am pretty sure I have a U4 ECU and Loom in the shed so will see what diagnostics plug it has on it, never really paid that much attention.
Ok guessing it is an OBD1 as it ain;t an OBD2, then can you tell me what wires go into the back of it ? You should also have a green plug with single wire and a black plug with single wire. These will be near the relay block usually.
Do you have a dash light setup to give out warning codes ?
If you find the green and the black plugs then plug them if you plug the green togeather the ECU should cycle the fan and fuel pump and if you plug the black togeather then you should get the warning light flashing.
Anyway as I am not 100% on the 3 Plug looms off the top of my head I will check the diagrams and pin outs and let you what you should be doing by pin out, that is if it is the same, so confirm the year if you can.
Got anymore pics of your radiator setup ?
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaHi Jim
Silly question, where did you get your 240kph speedo from?
Something occurred to me a while ago regarding the VSS, what happens when you put the car on a dyno, will you get a error code because the front wheels aren't turning and operating the VSS?
Maybe someone else has got around this, but I thought that you could spin the VSS with an electric drill at the appropriate time to avoid error codes.
Steve
I have one of those speedos steve , was for my project
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
Bugaru03 wrote:Again the problem appears in the VSS.It stops to give signal in to the ECU..
Have you wired it correctly?
12V (has the fuse blown?), Ground (earth) & output to ECU?
You can test it works ok by:
Remove the VSS unit from the speedo & cable, connect a volt meter (either digital or analogue) to the output, meter -ve to chassis. Make sure 12v is being supplied to the VSS. Rotate the drive on the VSS while watching the meter - there should be four 5V pulses per revolution.
seagull wrote:I have one of those speedos steve , was for my project
Hi Neil
Is it for an L bug or flatscreen bug?
Steve
Buggy Brad..
No the model is not from 2007(they told me it's from 97 to 99 model) just the guy who sell it to me has wrote on it for his own purposes i guess.
I have a dash light warning and when the ECU diagnosis a problem then the light opens & remains until to reset the error code by unpluged the battery wire for a while...but then after 3klm the error code appears again.
The most weird came today when i drove the car in to electrician the car for a distance about 20klm it revs under 6000rpms without warning light and no error code!
This drives me crazy because i cannot understand what is going on with this crazy VSS setup😬😬😬
Anyway my biggest problem is that i cannot connected through the 14pin slot in order to be ready anytime to diagnose the error codes and also upgrade it with a paraller ECU(Dastek unichip).
Does also anyone of you knows how can i increase the rev limit from 6500 to 7000rpms??
I will took some pictures for you in the afternoon!
Steve..
The speedo was purchased from a friend of mine in Greece but i think there is a company in Europe who sells this speedos.I will try to find info for you.
Please help!!!
Kind rergards,
Jimmy
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.gri have NO speed sensor and it drives great
The check light does'nt even come on.🤪
Factory ECU.1996
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Ok so you have an engine warning light and it is giving you the VSS code (33) coming up on your warning light, yeah ?
This is an intermitant problem yeah ?
So what do you need to get out of the Diag Plug ?
Have you check your voltage on the VSS ? and made sure it is correct and the signal is correct and there are enough pulses per revolution on your wheel ? Don't forget if you get that wrong the VSS will think you are going quicker than you are and the ECU may be speed limited.
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx Australiaian.mezz wrote:i have NO speed sensor and it drives great
The check light does'nt even come on.🤪
Factory ECU.1996
Lucky you
🙂
But Jim's stated his is a 97-99 which if it's anything like my UK spec 98 Impreza 2.0 NA does not run properly without a VSS. Mine will go into limp mode if the throttle is held at a constant opening for any duration of time (3 mins or so). Seriously it is a bitch!
I think Jim's got a dodgy wire somewhere or has lost the 12V supply to the VSS unit. Check out the wires & operation as I said a few posts up. It worked when you first fitted it.
Mike..
When i first got it it runs good about a month and then the problem started when i get the error code in the warning light.
I hope todays feedback from the electrician to solve it and proceed in the next step of your drawning maybe.
The most weird here in Greece is that nobody has a 14pin slot & the software ofcourse, in order to get in the ECU through a laptop and make some adjustments..such to increase the rev limit..
Buggy Brad..
Well..Yes i get the error code for VSS,but seems that all the connections are correct but how you explain that for about a month it was working without problem.
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grBugaru03 wrote:Mike..
When i first got it it runs good about a month and then the problem started when i get the error code in the warning light.
I hope todays feedback from the electrician to solve it and proceed in the next step of your drawning maybe.
The most weird here in Greece is that nobody has a 14pin slot & the software ofcourse, in order to get in the ECU through a laptop and make some adjustments..such to increase the rev limit..
Buggy Brad..
Well..Yes i get the error code for VSS,but seems that all the connections are correct but how you explain that for about a month it was working without problem.
If it is OBD1 then you can't adjust the idel with a laptop.
What do Subaru say about it ?
OBD2 can be adjusted.
Why not just change the plug to a stock OBD1 so you can plug it in ?
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaBrad..
I dont know if it is possible to change(first time i hear this) from 14pin OBD1 to 16pin OBD2 but if it is, do you have any wiring diagram on how it should be done??
Local Subaru dont give a sh...t for this kind of conversions..If your car it isn't Subaru then you have no lucky about it.
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grBugaru03 wrote:Brad..
I dont know if it is possible to change(first time i hear this) from 14pin OBD1 to 16pin OBD2 but if it is, do you have any wiring diagram on how it should be done??
Local Subaru dont give a sh...t for this kind of conversions..If your car it isn't Subaru then you have no lucky about it.
Ummm, do you still have the Subaru Diagnostic Port (might be called Scan Connector?), mine's black.
This on my MY97 contains the pins for 12V, GND, Tx & Rx for the purposes of ODB-I diagnostics.
Jimmy, have a look half way down the page here:
http://www.vwrx.com/index.php?pg=selectmonitorupdate...
Finally during summer & after dyno it's proved that the previous exhaust system was not fare enough for current setup so we re-shedule it from the beggining in order to achive the best performance we can get.This will be not enough if we didnt make a full service in the engine and a new intake system.
In the beggining of September and after a lot of work be done in the car by my self and long time since my last post,finally (after a big and unexpected surprise gift from my lovely wife!!!!)the car painted in this beautiful imperial blue perl color!
So with no ECU errors now and car painted.. next to come is to finish the interior upholestry by the end of the month and soon it will be back to roads again!!!
here is the result until now..
stay tuned..
Rgrds,
Jimmy
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grSweeeeeeeeeeeet.
Glad you got the problem sorted.
wow that is great!
Pay your debts, CxxT
The result for me is awesome and it's exactly what i have dreamed!!!
Elusivestranger finally the problem with VSS was to simple that my simple mind could't thinking of it.
The wire connects the VSS with the ECU it was plug in plug out and seems that some times it didnt attached well and this has the result of reading the error.So i cut the two wires and re-attached them together without to be possible one of the two wires to be unplugged.
I will upload some fotos soon from the interior job..
Rgrds,
Jimmy
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grWell, myself and Brad told you to check the VSS 😉
Knocking out a wire is easily done though. Hope you've either soldered it or used a quality connector now!
Still, you've got it sorted and proved that some years of EJ engines require VSS units to work
Bugaru03 wrote:Brad..
I dont know if it is possible to change(first time i hear this) from 14pin OBD1 to 16pin OBD2 but if it is, do you have any wiring diagram on how it should be done??
Local Subaru dont give a sh...t for this kind of conversions..If your car it isn't Subaru then you have no lucky about it.
Hi,
Nope you can't, well I suppose you can change the plug if you want but doing that will not make the OBD1 and OBD2 as the firware is different so the scanner will not work anyway.
All good now, yeah so that is the main thing.
Cheers,
Brad
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx Australiasome update from the interior trim...
more to come by the and of this week..
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.gr
