Think about the dollars, and the boss approving an unnecc rebuild.
Then think about your second line again....dont do it.
Then do the first line.
You want to tune before test.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Back to work today (forgot camera yesterday)...things will be a little slower until the little man (bub) gets settled at home.
However the rear apron was stripped today to get rid of the old paint and to discover if any more nastiness was hiding.
The sides of the apron that were drilled out (spot welds) had to be replaced as they were A) rusty and B) had too many holes (spot welds) - quicker to cut it right off and replace after making a template.
The welds were ground down and after these pics were taken a very thin skim of filler was applied to smooth out any bumps.
Inside was stripped where access allowed. Blasting would be nice, but since this is not a full respray just a quick strip was warranted.
The only nasty found was this rust hole on the lower edge under the seal - this was repaired this evening so hopefully tomorrow I'll throw on some primer (rust converter applied to bare metal in the mean time).
AL
Hi I have been admiring your work for some time now,Terrific. May I ask what rust converter you use, and does it effect the undercoat etc, ie does it need to be removed completely before paint is applied. Thanks Mike
Great work Damo. Just looked through the whole thread and am way impressed with how clean and shiny everything is. Spoken like a true girl!! 😂
"Don't be a horserace. Be a marathon." - Michael Franti
Hey Alan
Going to be looking through this thread very closely as we have just got a 59 Beetle (Agnes) to play with ...... as well as when Wilfred the 74 SC Ute gets back.
Toni can work on Agnes and I can work on Wilfred.
No arguments over style or direction then ....😂 .... yeah right!
Cheers
Brett
59 Beetle "Agnes
72 Beetle "Vera"
73 Bay "Otis"
74 SC Ute "Wilfred" work in progress/daily drive
76 SC Ute "Memphis" - 2008/9 Resto
76 Bay "Rusty Ramal" - Donor Bus
79 Double Slider - Long Term Project
sub60 wrote:Hi I have been admiring your work for some time now,Terrific. May I ask what rust converter you use, and does it effect the undercoat etc, ie does it need to be removed completely before paint is applied. Thanks Mike
I have been using septone of late - I've been advised by a well respected AVD member that they were recommended to not use rust converter under primer. I have been guided by the paint rep where I purchase my materials from so I suggest you ask some more questions as I will before making any decisions. I haven't had any problems using the product previously however in saying that I too will do some more research.
Here is the old metal which you can see why needed replacing (esp after drilling all the spot welds)
In etch primer
In high build primer
Engine bay in high build
The support brackets were made for the apron - you could just leave the standard nutsert (threaded nut fixed to the body) but considering you want to provide a sufficient clamping pressure to hold the apron between the body and guard, the brackets distribute the load more evenly (plus nuts less likely to strip out)
Will get some colour on it over the weekend or early next week then onto the next area of rust repair!
Al
WOW, thats so awesome Al, even in primer i'm smiling, thankyou for doing such a great job. I'll probably be getting the week after next off to come down and help out. Kyznet, thanks for the kind words, i'm trying to do the same as what Al, did to his 63 build with parts layed out and step by step build pics. Can't wait to finsih this bug and build that 2270 type 4.
Damo.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Looking good there kids. Noice.
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
Thanks Al, Mike
.... pure Das porn......
The slow tedious stuff is gradually being knocked over - started on the rear guard mating surface rust today - the pitted areas (and holes of course) have to be replaced with fresh metal.
Top sections were replaced and ground smooth, lower sections cut out leaving only the good original metal.
Drivers side done
Passenger side wasn't as bad
Whilst the holes were there, I blew out the dust etc, applied rust converter, rust preventative paint where applicable and then blew in a heap of cavity wax/rust protection before welding it all up. Almost got this side done but ran out of time tonight. Will finish tomorrow and then start on the front.
Left rear guard mating surface all solid once again.
Front left quarter has had a decent whack in a previous life. I hate when the rain gutter seam is filled with bog so I ground all that out to start the tidy up.
Although I'd like to strip all of this back and start again not all resto's can be bare metal jobs - the hours and $$ rack up far too quickly. Damo was just after a quick tidy up to make it sound and solid so I'll leave most of it as is and fix any problems like the rust concealed by the filler.
This area marked was cut out and repaired.
Both sides inner guards have been plated over before (I still don't know why people bother with this type of "repair" as it just delays the inevitable). Doesn't look too bad until you do some more digging!
I always cut out the repair section first then mark it onto the repair area and cut it out to shape.
Oh dear Damo.... 🙂
This was before I vaccumed out the flakes and cleaned it up thoroughly. Fortunately the base of the heater channel was solid and inner edges were structurally sound as well. But the double skinned areas where the inner guard meets the heater channel was shot...other side will be the same unfortunately.
In areas I can't get a brush to (to apply rust converter) I use a spray bottle top and squirt it through any access holes I can find (eg. running board bolt holes etc).
The heater channel was repaired with new steel (inside of repair plate was painted in weld through primer). This is why giving a fixed quote on a resto is impossible - unless you can deliver a fully media blasted and disassembled shell, you can never factor in these sorts of hidden surprises. Another half day spent repairing an unexpected problem, but thats the way it goes when these things rust from the inside out.
Inner guard repair section was then tacked in place (butt welded) - final welding and grinding tomorrow....then to do the same thing to the other side!
Looking good Al! 😀
Amazing how something that dosent look that bad is, if you dig a little deeper!
Hey Jack, yep you are right - there are always some nasties hiding!
Back to action today, the front left quarter was finished - will only need a very light skim of filler to smooth it out ready for paint.
Onto the front right quarter today - some more rust in guard mating surface and the smear of sound proofing 'tar' at heater channel level indicates same problem as the other side.
Rust in guard mating surface has been repaired in this pic, and damaged areas stripped to bare metal (from door being bent forwards).
Close up of damage adjacent to hinge
...and to front quarter
Same same, but different
After rust converter, kill rust paint was applied then rust proofing (cavity wax)....then it was sealed up with the inner skin on the heater channel.
The outer skin was tacked in place this arvo and will be fully welded tomorrow which will pretty much complete rust repair. Then there is just the repositioning of the rear body mounts, panel work to the drivers door and front right quarter (as per above), clean up of bonnet seal lip and behind washer bottle....will be in paint next week.
Then onto Jack's splitty!
Al
OH WOW !! I do dig your work sir !
Thanks phatratpat 🙂
Damo if you happen to see this tonight let me know if you want the antennae hole filled (right side front quarter) whilst I'm in the welding mode. If I don't hear from you by lunchtime tomorrow I'll give you a buzz.
Al
Al, fill in the Antennae hole please, I don't want to install a stereo, Thanks for the top work your doing, I will be ring you later today.
Damo.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
damo is happy to hear only the purr of his massive typeIV.
nice work al.
nick
A purr is nice, but I like the ROAR of a type one.
He He.
Take that you type 4 lovers.
Hurry up Damo and Nick!!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
No probs Damo - will fill it in today.
Al, I have access to a 68 bay, that i will be attacking hopefully on Sunday for metal, need anything? Dave, be nice now😂
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
dangerous wrote:A purr is nice, but I like the ROAR of a type one.
He He.
Take that you type 4 lovers.
Hurry up Damo and Nick!!
As long as its a VW boxer i like both sounds.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Just trying to spurr you on Damo.😘
Looking forward to seeing and hearing your big Type 4 running.👍👍
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
hey damo got any glass from the 68 bay need the solid passenger side window !!!
cheers you big ugly man......👍
Definitely Damo - I need the running gear (front and rear!).....my splitty has been waiting patiently whilst trying to source these bits. I'll shoot you a PM.
AL
Al, pm replied. Pat i'm sure i could get that for you.
Damo.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Thanks Damo. If anyone else knows of an early bay (wide 5) available to donate its running gear please let me know!
On another note, the antennae hole was filled today
Inner guard also completed, I try to dimple the rosette (plug) welds with the die grinder to try and replicate the factory spot welds - obviously you can tell the difference if you look really closely.
Spent the rest of today trying to realign the drivers door as it had been pushed forward when it was bent backwards (if that makes sense) so the gap at the b-pillar was huge (~10mm) and the gap at a-pillar was next to nothing (~1mm) which caused the door to rub at its front edge. I still have a little work to do but it is far better (~6mm and ~4mm b- and a-pillar respectively). Also started fixing the damage to hinge areas on door and in front of top hinge on quarter panel. Fortunately the welding is drawing to a close (only a tiny few areas to complete) then will start prepping the rest!
Al
66deluxe wrote:Al, pm replied. Pat i'm sure i could get that for you.
Damo.
you rock damo
sorry adout the the big ugly man comment
I was wrong...your not that big !!!
🙄Dasdubber wrote:Spent the rest of today trying to realign the drivers door as it had been pushed forward when it was bent backwards (if that makes sense) so the gap at the b-pillar was huge (~10mm) and the gap at a-pillar was next to nothing (~1mm) which caused the door to rub at its front edge. I still have a little work to do but it is far better (~6mm and ~4mm b- and a-pillar respectively).
Al
How did you do that Alan?
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
koolkarmakombi wrote:How did you do that Alan?
BFH and block of wood to start with (big f'ken hammer) - both hinges were bent forwards slightly so they were knocked back to alignment. When the door was bent forwards the skin also came adrift from the lower hinge so the door skin itself sagged forwards and hit the a-pillar. I had to wedge the skin back hard against the hinge (looking inside the door), and rewelded it to the hinge itself.
The a-pillar fortunately wasn't pushed forwards (which would have buckled the front quarter more)...so I just had to straighten the buckle adjacent to the upper hinge pictured previously.
Believe it or not it has to get pretty brutal when realigning doors etc - this involves wedging various implements between the a pillar and the door, pushing, pulling, jamming etc etc. Hard to explain but when quite a strong force was applied to buckle it, an equal and opposite force has to be applied to un buckle it (very loose application of Newtons third law of motion!)
🙂
Al
