Just installed a oil temp guage(vdo) and dipstick sender(vdo) into a 71 superbug 1600 motor. In Qld what should the normal temp range be in C. Curently running 100 to 115 C. Outside air temp arond 20 C.
this is not an exact science, when your guage reads 100-15 pull over go and examine and smell the engine. if it's all good back there then all you have to worry about is when the guage reads higher like if it goes to 120 plus
115 is a good temperature, warm enough to boil off any water in the oil, but not hot enough to burn the oil itself. :thumb
This topic has been covered quite comprehensively, try doing a search through the tech section. 🙂
Kruizin Kol
not bad for winter but whatch out in the summer months.
why does my engine run hot?
thers are many reasons the list is long
My engine builder told me that 125 deg C is the critical max temp. But he doesn't have his temp sender where the dip stick goes either.
100 - 115 deg C seems fine to me.
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
I have a VDO dip stick sender. On a warm winters day 23degC engine runs at 100 degC even under hard driving. Summer in Qld it's been up to 120degC. Opened the deck lid and temp went back down to 100degC.
Im actually toying with the idea of putting a set of slides on the hinges that can push the the top of the deck lid open electrically via a small actuator where the spring goes, similar to the porche oil cooler. Already have some of the components but not enough time .
i dont wanna start an argument but use a simple rule that,
try and keep your oil temp around 100 c.
115c on a day of 20deg c is running far too hot, as the summer months you can imagine what it will be.
i guess your using all the correct tinware and have the late engine lid with the 4 sets of vents?
also depending on whether you use a diptick sender or the sump plug type will also give you different readings. i have found that the dipstick sender is far more accurate.
even for me here in summer in central QLD, my 1600 never gets above 105deg c.
hope this helps
cheers
Andrew
I might just be unlearned or have an overcooling engine, but that seems a little warm, because I have almost the same engine and mine never gets over 95 degrees C when its like 25 degrees ambient/atmo temp (what the hell is ambient). In adelaide lately its been like 12, so it takes about ten minutes to get to like 75 if im lucky and never goes over even when i give it some stick (quite often). Anyways we are talkin about you so I'll shut up now.
Have u got enough oil in it?
Is is running lean?
My two cents worth.
Cheers.
PS. haha, awesome idea Kafer69
BTW- whats a bad smelling engine? (in regards to overheating).
Cheers again.
you can smell its hot, it's just a smell you'll know when it's in your nostrils.
GUYS, we all have guages and senders, I wager not 2 of them would read the same if put in the same position.
if your guage always reads the same temp when it's warmed up eg 110 go and have a look at the back if it don't smell, sound , look or feel hot then you have a reference point, some time in the future if it goes higher do the same check you will posibly find the point on your guage where the engine is too hot, then you know when to stop and check for probs or give the car a chance to cool down
Its gotta go over 100 to burn off all the condensation thats in your motor,OR SO IVE HEARD 😀
The bug has a whale tail with no vents in it. This might be keeping the temp up so i'm going to cut a vent in the top (looks like there is a space for it) and see if the temp comes down a bit. I'm a bit worried about summer temps.
good idea
the tails are ment to have a grill i reckon - to catch the air.
Just cover it with mesh. Any auto stor will have some. The ricers love it.
Should drop the temperature a bit
Futue te ipsum!!!
i've heard that whaletails work REALLY well, to the point that they actually over- cool. just have to play with the vents size and stuff to reach the happy medium. at the end of the day however, it's possible that you're just playing with symptoms of an engine that needs some help. as has been prementioned, check the tinware. i had a few warm readings before i realised the muffler guy had screwed up replacing the tinware above the extractors. ten degrees right there. on really hot days when i'm going a long way i use hoodjacks. lowers temp ten degrees too 😀
mines usually below 100, unless i'm having a good blatt, then up to 110 or so.
let sleeping dubs lie
"critical max temp"
*loads spitball gun*
let sleeping dubs lie
Here is a picture of the tail
I cut out the center and put in some grill as suggested. Lets hope this fixes the problem. If not I'll try something else. Doing a run up to toowoomba this weekend and will track temperature.
Very well done!
Looks like its always been there!
:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb
Might see you in toowoomba!
1962 Type3 Squareback
1967 Type3 Fastback "Kermit"
The truth is important. It will set you free
VERY WELL DONE!!!
Exactly why that indent was there!
Another thought - where the louvres are above engine lid - the verticle ones. Behind them are horizontal ones.
You could cut bigger holes there.
I dont think it will be necessary. I will be amazed if you are not amazed at the difference.
:bounce:thumb:bounce:thumb:bounce:thumb
Futue te ipsum!!!
Will take her for a nice long spin today and let you all know how she goes 😉
(any excuse :thumb )
i bet it drops by 14 degrees...:thumb
*waits for result*
*picks nose*
...
any other guesses have until shani runs out of excuses for driving around beaming at everyone 😀
let sleeping dubs lie
nah - i will be a bit more conservative. My hood jax dropped me 10 degrees
I will say 10 degrees :thumb
Hey that is still fine
You do 1/2 hour of free way driving at lunchtime at 65mph (105 km/hr) at 105 and your ok
I went to Newcastle on Monday at 7.30.
All the way at the speed limit 😀 well may be more and sat on 90. 1 1/2 hrs solid. 140kms.
Came home at lunch time ( i had fun on the way home again) and i was just under 105.
Im happy :thumb
Futue te ipsum!!!
Ok fellas here's your results....
Drove 30 - 45 mins, most of that sitting on 60-65mph along the motorway. Oil temp never got to 110. Sat around 105 maybe 108 at the most.
Not too bad, a big improvement.
Now I just gotta get a wheel alignment done I think, cause she starts to shudder a little bit between 60 and 70 mph depending on her mood and the road I'm on.....
It's never ending! 😀
Well done - If you can cruise at 100 - 105 km/hr for 45 mins and sit at 105 degrees that is not bad. :thumb:thumb:thumb
Also whach a steering damper in while you are at it.
About $35 from Micks
Simple to do and well worth it. Supers need a little bit of car for a great handling car
Go to
www.superbeetlesonly.com and have a read in the Tech Section :bounce
Futue te ipsum!!!
put more holes in it 😀
my estimate was based on .. stuff.. and .. things...
looks like ten degrees drop. not bad:thumb
my hoodjacks do about the same. but i never really use them in the winter.loose tinware puts it up by about 5-10 degrees over the muffler. really nice job on the whaletail btw. very pro. 😀
let sleeping dubs lie
kafer69 wrote:I have a VDO dip stick sender. On a warm winters day 23degC engine runs at 100 degC even under hard driving. Summer in Qld it's been up to 120degC. Opened the deck lid and temp went back down to 100degC.
Im actually toying with the idea of putting a set of slides on the hinges that can push the the top of the deck lid open electrically via a small actuator where the spring goes, similar to the porche oil cooler. Already have some of the components but not enough time .
I know someone who can sell you a set of Hoodjacks, that prop the engine lid open when it's hot or you can close it when it rains:bounce
Pay your debts, CxxT
Ben Durie wrote:Hi,
We advise you slow down if it gets to 110deg C , this is maximum oil temp even on a 30deg day , you have serious cooling problems if its at 115 on a cool day.
Most of our engines run around 90 deg.
regards
Ben
Engine builders who say run it to 125 ?? may be don't care about durability.
(my opinion , commence shooting )
Bang! And where did you pluck those figures from?
Pay your debts, CxxT
Hi Shani,
U could get even more serious & cut more louvres in your wing similar to mine, it should give u even more air than u need. I can run on the expressway at 4000rpm from the coast to sydney & I couldn't get the oil temp over 90d & that was in summer. I can get it up to 120+d on the track, & just putting around on the street I can't get it over 60d.
Being a convertible isn't helping u either since the air flow doesn't have a roof line to follow.
I suggest u don't cut out the horizontal louvres under the vertical ones unless u don't drive in the rain or your car isn't kept in the garage. water will just pour into your engine bay.
regards
Jak
Congratulations to Ben Durie for breaking the hillclimb record at Ringwood in his stroker beetle!
Thanks Jak, I won't be cutting anything out for those very reasons. The car IS garaged but since she is about to become my only mode of transport I imagine I will be going out in the rain at some point...
:thumb
My EH, although watercooled and running a temp sender in the head to the water, would probably be similar oil temp as oil flows full on through head rocker gear.
It was running at a constant 105-110C after being built and the engine builder was freaking right out. He demanded I get it down to at least 90, and preferably closer to 80 as possible. I am going from 2 core heavy duty radiator to 4 core.
For power and reliability he wants to see it down to 80. If economy was my thing he said 90-95 would be what I am after.
The Dyno guy also said similar. He won't do the final tune up/ dyno run until I get it to sit on no more than 90 max on the road. The reason is he is planning on going sik and loading the car to the maximum pump, and it will get freaking hot. He dyno's a lot of cars, and he said the tough survive. It's not a case of wrecking it on the dyno, but showing it's weak points. If it is all strong, you will get a top reading of max power.
Then it is off to the track to record 1/4 mile times.
