I've replaced my ball joints along with sway bar rubbers i put nolothane stuffs in the steering is better but i think i need a steering box and a good wheel alignment... also i changed my front springs i put erm springs out of the back of VS commodore in they're pretty good a bit stiff it's pretty good on a flat road with tiny bumps or pot hole... handles a bit better as well..
and yes i'll go with the helical gear... although straight cut is very tempting... the price isn't 😊
and one more question to you experts... should i go big valves head?? would they be worth the price?? i got quoted $550 for big valves head and $380 for standard opinion please
thank you
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
that's what i thought and my budget supports that decision as well..
i bought another progressive manifold because it was like cheap so i grabbed it.. anyway the hole where heater pipe goes wasn't drilled thru... was it meant to be blocked in the middle?? i mean there are holes on both sides just that the hole wasn't drilled thru... should i drill it thru so that the exhaust gas would flow and actually dissipate some heat onto the manifold or should i just leave it?? and see if it would somehow miraculously work
preheat will be fairly useless anyway but better than nothing
they never work like stock once u put headers on u only have to look at the design to see why
its probably a carbon blockage. thats what happens when u feed from 2 ends
if u just want straight cuts for the noise then get some cheap empi ones
generally its play in the gears where most of the noise comes from
quality gears are abit quieter cos they have closer tolerances
ive got scat straight cuts in mine, u can tell there straights but there not offensively loud
but beware cheap ones are cheap for a reason
even good ones can do this
i was going to make a bypass tube that doesn't go straight to the flange that connects to the muffler so that exhaust would actually flow is that a good idea? and if i do that i would just drilled the manifold thru... it's a new manifold so it didn't have any carbon build up.. it just wasn't drilled thru
i bought an aluminium cam gear yay
unfortunately mine was a dish type cam gear abd the one i bought is a flat type so the guy said 100 for a new oil pump and i replied "next pay" 🙁 stupid low paying job
dont worry ur not the first bloke to screw a bottom end together only to look over and see a lifter or cam bearing, something small and stupid still sitting on the bench 🤪
Joel wrote:i got NFI
i just grabbed the pics from the same topic we having on thesamba to demonstrate what can happen
My point exactly.
Not having a go at you Joel, but it just pi55es me off to here this is now good or whatever, when there are so many facts missing in such a complicated issue.
No one knows except possibly the guy who broke it, what actually caused the faiure, and/or the specs at assembly... what backlash, end float, valve spring pressure, rocker geometery, cam, spring harmonics, engine rpm............
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
i was wondering what is the easy way to fix the built in rear camber?? out of superbug IRS i replaced the rubbers that helped a bit .....
and setting the torsion bar was a real pain
point taken mat, i was more trying to make the OP relise they do nothing in a stock engine
but anyway heres what happened to the one in the 2nd pic
"As far as the story goes, i lost a flywheel in the burn out box, and the sudden twist of the crankshaft when the flywheel let go smashed the gear, resulting in some MAJOR damage to EVERYTHING but the case."
its a real PITA job to decamber a IRS
u gotta flip the trailing arms and weld the shock mounts back on the right way
most ppl just live with the camber all it does is wear ur tyres quicker
Joel wrote:but anyway heres what happened to the one in the 2nd pic
"As far as the story goes, i lost a flywheel in the burn out box, and the sudden twist of the crankshaft when the flywheel let go smashed the gear, resulting in some MAJOR damage to EVERYTHING but the case."
Cool Joel, that does explain a few things....ahh knowledge.
You dont need to worry now Daimo, just keep the flywheel firmly attached, especially during burnouts😂.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
jsheppard64 wrote:i was wondering what is the easy way to fix the built in rear camber?? out of superbug IRS i replaced the rubbers that helped a bit .....
and setting the torsion bar was a real pain
Its actually very easy to adjust............if you know how.
what's the best thing to use to seal the engine up??? a guy at vw garage told me to use hard setting Loctite engine sealand No 4 and my dad told me to use standard vw compound which is softer. when i sealed the engine up for the first time forgot about the lifters i used loctite No 4.. i don't want my car to make a mark everywhere it goes... altho that's normal with old VW 😂
