amazer kombi pilot
3,187 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
..
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Chris.... kombi pilot, oval dreamer... finisher #26971 2005 city to surf
The stuff they don\'t put in workshop manuals
KruizinKombi Seriously Obsessed Cyber Dubber
3,493 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
HAhaha, gotta love that one!! I've never seen a homemade power point before!! :o:o:o
Work is slow due to me being sick - I've even got the day off work. 2nd day off in three years. ๐
Engine is bolted in, oil is in (and no, it didn't run out the bottom, although I semi-expected it ๐), foam seal is in (fiddly bastard!!).
I still have to connect the fuel lines to the pump, throttle cable, dizzy cap and plug wires, wiring to the oil press. sender, coil and regulator, and two screws each into the heater flap boxes. I'm procrastinating about going out there now, because I really don't like the dizzy feeling everytime I move my head. ๐
Work is slow due to me being sick - I've even got the day off work. 2nd day off in three years. ๐
Engine is bolted in, oil is in (and no, it didn't run out the bottom, although I semi-expected it ๐), foam seal is in (fiddly bastard!!).
I still have to connect the fuel lines to the pump, throttle cable, dizzy cap and plug wires, wiring to the oil press. sender, coil and regulator, and two screws each into the heater flap boxes. I'm procrastinating about going out there now, because I really don't like the dizzy feeling everytime I move my head. ๐
Kruizin Kol
pyr0 flame-on
4,457 posts ยท joined Mar 2003 ยท
LOL the wood isnt even cut straight LOL
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
KruizinKombi Seriously Obsessed Cyber Dubber
3,493 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
Hehehe, here's a 'card' I got via email from one of the kids at school. This is actually a big deal, because he is essentially illiterate.
I keep a folder of my favourite pics on the school server where all the kids can access them. :thumb
I keep a folder of my favourite pics on the school server where all the kids can access them. :thumb
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Kruizin Kol
KruizinKombi Seriously Obsessed Cyber Dubber
3,493 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
Well I got the fuel line on, after yelling at Heather for ten minutes before she heard me (on the bloody phone again ๐ ) because I neglected to clamp the fuel hose from the tank before I pulled the bolt out of the end of it. This is a mistake I've made before, but I'll learn one day. I'm actually contemplating fitting a tap to the tank outlet so I can just turn off the fuel when I'm playing with hoses.
I got the heater flap thingies done up, and the wiring nearly sorted (I'm about to make a new wire for the carby chokes and solenoids). What I really want to do is turn the motor over to get the oil pressure up, but...
Flat battery!!! ๐ ๐ ๐
The bloody thing was fine a week ago when I reconnected it to show a mate my central locking!!! How can a battery be fine for three months and then go flat in a week? I even disconnected it again after I'd finished playing around!
So, I'm now on the hunt for a battery charger, but in the meantime, I think I'll pinch the battery out of the bug. ๐
[Edited on 21-7-2003 by KruizinKombi]
I got the heater flap thingies done up, and the wiring nearly sorted (I'm about to make a new wire for the carby chokes and solenoids). What I really want to do is turn the motor over to get the oil pressure up, but...
Flat battery!!! ๐ ๐ ๐
The bloody thing was fine a week ago when I reconnected it to show a mate my central locking!!! How can a battery be fine for three months and then go flat in a week? I even disconnected it again after I'd finished playing around!
So, I'm now on the hunt for a battery charger, but in the meantime, I think I'll pinch the battery out of the bug. ๐
[Edited on 21-7-2003 by KruizinKombi]
Kruizin Kol
Purple Martin Fahrvergnugen
913 posts ยท joined Feb 2003 ยท
Sounds like you're nearly there! ๐
You could take out the spark plugs and hand-crank it a few times. It won't give full oil pressure but it'll move the oil around enough to get most parts coated before you fire it up.
It also sounds like you need to buy a new battery: if it's been flat (even just once) it's chemically damaged and it'll never hold a full charge again. It'll probably be OK if you drive it every day and the weather is warm, but if you leave it for a few days it'll go flat again, or if there's cold weather it could even go flat overnight. I've heard that gel batteries are good and worth the extra expense.
You could take out the spark plugs and hand-crank it a few times. It won't give full oil pressure but it'll move the oil around enough to get most parts coated before you fire it up.
It also sounds like you need to buy a new battery: if it's been flat (even just once) it's chemically damaged and it'll never hold a full charge again. It'll probably be OK if you drive it every day and the weather is warm, but if you leave it for a few days it'll go flat again, or if there's cold weather it could even go flat overnight. I've heard that gel batteries are good and worth the extra expense.
1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
1975 Kombi camper
KruizinKombi Seriously Obsessed Cyber Dubber
3,493 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
I got everything the way it was supposed to be (or so I thought) and cranked the motor over on the starter with the dizzy cap off to build up the oil pressure for a while, then put the dizzy cap back on. Fired up first time!!! ๐๐๐
Couldn't get it to idle, and finally found a missing plug in the carby - something like a welsh plug I guess, leaving a hole that exposed the idle circuit solenoid's valve. When I block it with my finger, he idles fine.
I'm currently ratting an old carby that Brad gave me 18 months ago when my butterfly shaft was leaking - I used the bottom section and the rest has been sitting around since. The plug I need is intact, so I decided to swap over the whole top section of the carby.
I spent a bit of time exploring the little rectangular thing on the side to see what it is/does. Apparently it has some kind of heating element in it which blocks/unblocks a hole in the side of the carby. The wires inside are broken, and my carby never had one fitted before even though the hole is still there, so I guess it only operates when cold and I can get away with leaving it off. Back to the problem at hand....
I swapped a few parts from my old carby top to the 'new' carby top such as my choke and my new idle circuit solenoid, and then tried to fit the 'new' top to my old carby. No go. It seems that my carby has an extra bit molded into the bottom of the float chamber, and the brass tube in the new top section is too long to fit. ๐
Getting closer, but not there yet!:bounce
Couldn't get it to idle, and finally found a missing plug in the carby - something like a welsh plug I guess, leaving a hole that exposed the idle circuit solenoid's valve. When I block it with my finger, he idles fine.
I'm currently ratting an old carby that Brad gave me 18 months ago when my butterfly shaft was leaking - I used the bottom section and the rest has been sitting around since. The plug I need is intact, so I decided to swap over the whole top section of the carby.
I spent a bit of time exploring the little rectangular thing on the side to see what it is/does. Apparently it has some kind of heating element in it which blocks/unblocks a hole in the side of the carby. The wires inside are broken, and my carby never had one fitted before even though the hole is still there, so I guess it only operates when cold and I can get away with leaving it off. Back to the problem at hand....
I swapped a few parts from my old carby top to the 'new' carby top such as my choke and my new idle circuit solenoid, and then tried to fit the 'new' top to my old carby. No go. It seems that my carby has an extra bit molded into the bottom of the float chamber, and the brass tube in the new top section is too long to fit. ๐
Getting closer, but not there yet!:bounce
Kruizin Kol
amazer kombi pilot
3,187 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
Baaah it'll go on. Just hit it harder with something bigger.
I have done the fuel line thing too. (why do I tell people these things) Well mine was clamped but not enough obviously. Copped the lot in my face. Worst part is that Jay was there watching me ๐ most embarrassing. She never crawled under to help me either ๐ ๐
I have done the fuel line thing too. (why do I tell people these things) Well mine was clamped but not enough obviously. Copped the lot in my face. Worst part is that Jay was there watching me ๐ most embarrassing. She never crawled under to help me either ๐ ๐
Chris.... kombi pilot, oval dreamer... finisher #26971 2005 city to surf
Jay_1965vw Chatting Babe
1,429 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
Didn't know what I could do to help ๐
Not nice to watch.
Not nice to watch.
Part of Melbourne's Unreal Aircooled VW Community
KruizinKombi Seriously Obsessed Cyber Dubber
3,493 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
The first time I did it was under slightly different circumstances:
We'd gone bush for some extended camping and blown the clutch trying to reverse up a track after I chickened out. :o
We set up camp after having a 4x4 tow me the last hundred metres up the track into a clearing, then got a lift home the next day to pick up a new clutch plate, tools, and another vehicle. So far so good. :thumb
This was in September, at about 800 metres altitude in the Baw Baw Ranges, so it was a bit on the chilly side and we'd started to have some light snow, so I'd done the right thing and built up a nice roaring fire so Heather and our friend Jo could keep nice and warm while I worked on the kombi.
I'd never pulled a motor from a kombi before, but I had no choice, so I jacked it up onto a couple of slabs of firewood and dropped the motor right where we'd set up camp.
Everything was going ok - I'd disconnected the throttle cable, the fuel hose, the wiring, the engine mounts and the bellhousing bolts, and was trying to get the motor to drop, but it wouldn't. In sheer frustration I climbed under the car near the gearbox and was reefing up and down on the motor trying to make it drop down (with a jack in place under it). ๐
What I didn't realise was that being a fuel-injected motor, it also had a return line from the fuel rail to the tank, and the motor was actually hanging from this hose. When it finally came loose, I got covered with 1/2 a tank of Mobil's finest. So here I was, wearing a thick fleece jumper absolutely soaked with petrol, stuck under the car about 10 metres away from a roaring fire with flames about as tall as me. :o:o:o
I was lucky to get away with it, but the fire was kept a lot smaller after that! ๐
We'd gone bush for some extended camping and blown the clutch trying to reverse up a track after I chickened out. :o
We set up camp after having a 4x4 tow me the last hundred metres up the track into a clearing, then got a lift home the next day to pick up a new clutch plate, tools, and another vehicle. So far so good. :thumb
This was in September, at about 800 metres altitude in the Baw Baw Ranges, so it was a bit on the chilly side and we'd started to have some light snow, so I'd done the right thing and built up a nice roaring fire so Heather and our friend Jo could keep nice and warm while I worked on the kombi.
I'd never pulled a motor from a kombi before, but I had no choice, so I jacked it up onto a couple of slabs of firewood and dropped the motor right where we'd set up camp.
Everything was going ok - I'd disconnected the throttle cable, the fuel hose, the wiring, the engine mounts and the bellhousing bolts, and was trying to get the motor to drop, but it wouldn't. In sheer frustration I climbed under the car near the gearbox and was reefing up and down on the motor trying to make it drop down (with a jack in place under it). ๐
What I didn't realise was that being a fuel-injected motor, it also had a return line from the fuel rail to the tank, and the motor was actually hanging from this hose. When it finally came loose, I got covered with 1/2 a tank of Mobil's finest. So here I was, wearing a thick fleece jumper absolutely soaked with petrol, stuck under the car about 10 metres away from a roaring fire with flames about as tall as me. :o:o:o
I was lucky to get away with it, but the fire was kept a lot smaller after that! ๐
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Kruizin Kol
KruizinKombi Seriously Obsessed Cyber Dubber
3,493 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
I ended up putting the entire 'new' carby on, after pulling it apart three times to get rid of the remnants of the mud-wasps that have obviously inhabited it at some stage. :o
Still, it runs like a bag of crap! ๐
I took it for a test drive anyway, and realised when I got to the bottom of the driveway that I hadn't reconnected the hose to the brake booster :o which was allowing an air leak into the intake balance pipe. Easily fixed though. :thumb
Still, it runs like a bag of crap! ๐
Rechecked the tappet clearances roughly, because the motor was warm, and found an adjuster that I obviously hadn't tightened properly. :o
Still, it runs like a bag of crap! ๐
Pulled all the plugs leads off and tested them with a spare plug, all ok. I unplugged all the leads and reconnected them one at a time and turned the motor over - cylinders 3 & 4 still aren't firing up, but it's not the spark. Obviously I still have a carby problem. ๐ ๐ ๐
I give up. The accelerator pump works, the needle and seat are clear, the main jet is clear, and it idles. It runs quite smoothly, but I haven't got anything like the sort of power I should have. ๐ I've called my ex-mechanic (now retired) and I'm taking it around to him today after work, so hopefully it will be something simple.
Getting impatient and running out of time... :bounce:bounce:bounce
Still, it runs like a bag of crap! ๐
I took it for a test drive anyway, and realised when I got to the bottom of the driveway that I hadn't reconnected the hose to the brake booster :o which was allowing an air leak into the intake balance pipe. Easily fixed though. :thumb
Still, it runs like a bag of crap! ๐
Rechecked the tappet clearances roughly, because the motor was warm, and found an adjuster that I obviously hadn't tightened properly. :o
Still, it runs like a bag of crap! ๐
Pulled all the plugs leads off and tested them with a spare plug, all ok. I unplugged all the leads and reconnected them one at a time and turned the motor over - cylinders 3 & 4 still aren't firing up, but it's not the spark. Obviously I still have a carby problem. ๐ ๐ ๐
I give up. The accelerator pump works, the needle and seat are clear, the main jet is clear, and it idles. It runs quite smoothly, but I haven't got anything like the sort of power I should have. ๐ I've called my ex-mechanic (now retired) and I'm taking it around to him today after work, so hopefully it will be something simple.
Getting impatient and running out of time... :bounce:bounce:bounce
Kruizin Kol
KruizinKombi Seriously Obsessed Cyber Dubber
3,493 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
As I'd hoped, it was something simple. I'd left the linkage off the LH carb last time I refitted it!!!
Drove home this arvo and he was running sweet!!! :thumb:thumb:thumb
I'm one very happy kombi owner now ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐
I still have to fix an idle solenoid that isn't working and recheck the valve clearances, then John is going to check the tuning for me when I get home from school camp on Friday. :thumb
Now I have to buy a new battery, fit my fat steering wheel and dual power outlet, remove some seats, change the rear wheel bearings and maybe even put a headliner in it if I have time. At least the important bit is worked out though, I will get to Nambucca!!! ๐:thumb๐:thumb๐:thumb๐:thumb๐
Drove home this arvo and he was running sweet!!! :thumb:thumb:thumb
I'm one very happy kombi owner now ๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐๐
I still have to fix an idle solenoid that isn't working and recheck the valve clearances, then John is going to check the tuning for me when I get home from school camp on Friday. :thumb
Now I have to buy a new battery, fit my fat steering wheel and dual power outlet, remove some seats, change the rear wheel bearings and maybe even put a headliner in it if I have time. At least the important bit is worked out though, I will get to Nambucca!!! ๐:thumb๐:thumb๐:thumb๐:thumb๐
Kruizin Kol
Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l
12,789 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
KruizinKombi wrote:As I'd hoped, it was something simple. I'd left the linkage off the LH carb last time I refitted it!!!
BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!
Col you have made my day!!!!
Sorry pal - that broke me up
Yep something simple
Now go and sit on the back step, lay back with a beer, smoke, cup of tea and reflect! :thumb:thumb
Congratulations dude!!!
Futue te ipsum!!!
Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds
2,703 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
Great news Col, we'll have a beer in Nambucca Heads! We should be there mid-afternoon on Friday.
Remember to give it an oil change before you hit the road.
Remember to give it an oil change before you hit the road.
SKEWtYpe3 Custom Title Time!
1,859 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
WELL DONE COLLIN !
you gotta be happy with that !
its always somwething simple aint it....
Skewster...:bounce
you gotta be happy with that !
its always somwething simple aint it....
Skewster...:bounce
PatB Casual Dubber
32 posts ยท joined Mar 2003 ยท
Just thought I'd add my 2c worth on manuals. If you're serious about doing major work on any motor vehicle, you need all the literature you can lay hands on. You can get by with one GOOD manual but the more the better.
Factory manuals are generally the best (as you might expect) with no "Refer to your local XXXXXX dealer" crap. They've generally got information on making any special tools you need and cover EVERY operation you're likely to carry out.
As for aftermarket manuals, I've generally found Haynes to be the best although their quality varies depending on which Haynes staffer actually researched and wrote it. They also seem to be deteriorating as I've been rather unimpressed by a couple of their latest (not VW) offerings. I think the rot set in when they stopped putting those beautifully detailed cutaway drawings on the cover. Their current Beetle offering is flimsily bound and printed on bog paper but seems to be technically OK albeit published mainly for the US market.
Autobooks seem to be OK, largely because they reproduce quite substantial sections of the factory offerings (at least for the ones (again, non VW) I've seen.
Not to be confused with Autobooks are Autodata. If you see one of these, cheap, let me know 'cos I'm looking for something to line the cats' litter box.:puke. 'Nuff said.
As for Gregorys, I haven't seen the Kombi offering but I'd put the two I have used marginally above Autodata in that I might be persuaded to wrap fish and chips in them if nothing else was available. Very, very ordinary though it pains me to say it about a local product.
Another useful item to have is a factory parts book. Very useful for the exploded diagrams they contain so you can see if everything's there on your particular vehicle. Also handy for checking interchangeability with likely donor vehicles if you've got something a bit oddball.
Like I said, my 2c and probably worth about what you paid for it.
Pat
Factory manuals are generally the best (as you might expect) with no "Refer to your local XXXXXX dealer" crap. They've generally got information on making any special tools you need and cover EVERY operation you're likely to carry out.
As for aftermarket manuals, I've generally found Haynes to be the best although their quality varies depending on which Haynes staffer actually researched and wrote it. They also seem to be deteriorating as I've been rather unimpressed by a couple of their latest (not VW) offerings. I think the rot set in when they stopped putting those beautifully detailed cutaway drawings on the cover. Their current Beetle offering is flimsily bound and printed on bog paper but seems to be technically OK albeit published mainly for the US market.
Autobooks seem to be OK, largely because they reproduce quite substantial sections of the factory offerings (at least for the ones (again, non VW) I've seen.
Not to be confused with Autobooks are Autodata. If you see one of these, cheap, let me know 'cos I'm looking for something to line the cats' litter box.:puke. 'Nuff said.
As for Gregorys, I haven't seen the Kombi offering but I'd put the two I have used marginally above Autodata in that I might be persuaded to wrap fish and chips in them if nothing else was available. Very, very ordinary though it pains me to say it about a local product.
Another useful item to have is a factory parts book. Very useful for the exploded diagrams they contain so you can see if everything's there on your particular vehicle. Also handy for checking interchangeability with likely donor vehicles if you've got something a bit oddball.
Like I said, my 2c and probably worth about what you paid for it.
Pat
The_Bronze. Minister of Volkswagenism
1,922 posts ยท joined Sep 2002 ยท
Cool mate, congrats on the fine job. Been following along from work.
Hope I have a student that Emails me when I get the dreaded lugie.
Had about six kids checking out the Dog-O-War photos on stockton the other day in the computer labs -asking me this and that. Probably just to get out of what they were supposed to be doing.
๐ My bad news is I doubt I can get to Valla. The Dog-O-War definately won't be ready as it's taken a week to get the electrics done. Hopefully they will be finished tomorrow. I have to go to Sydney for workshopping Drama. It's all beeen organised and there is no getting out of it. It's on the Saturday so deepending on finances I might go from Sydney up to Coffs Saturday night but I will probably be too tired making coming south to Dubbo Sunday after the BBQ pretty dangerious driving.
Will see how I am Saturday. I will have either a department car or take the Forester. The department may no like me circumnavigating coastal NSW over a weekend in one of their vehicles. Forester has better seats and cruise anyhow!
:bounce Regardless I'm pissed off! ๐
Hope I have a student that Emails me when I get the dreaded lugie.
Had about six kids checking out the Dog-O-War photos on stockton the other day in the computer labs -asking me this and that. Probably just to get out of what they were supposed to be doing.
๐ My bad news is I doubt I can get to Valla. The Dog-O-War definately won't be ready as it's taken a week to get the electrics done. Hopefully they will be finished tomorrow. I have to go to Sydney for workshopping Drama. It's all beeen organised and there is no getting out of it. It's on the Saturday so deepending on finances I might go from Sydney up to Coffs Saturday night but I will probably be too tired making coming south to Dubbo Sunday after the BBQ pretty dangerious driving.
Will see how I am Saturday. I will have either a department car or take the Forester. The department may no like me circumnavigating coastal NSW over a weekend in one of their vehicles. Forester has better seats and cruise anyhow!
:bounce Regardless I'm pissed off! ๐
Bronze.
Rathmines, Lake Macquarie, NSW.
Rathmines, Lake Macquarie, NSW.
Spook Driving the 64 wheeler
1,168 posts ยท joined Aug 2002 ยท
Good to hear you got it worked out Col.
My rule of thumb is; if I,m not bleeding, I haven't done it properly.
As to the original subject, I only have two gripes with manuals.
Firstly, they don't tell you you need to be double jointed to get some of the bolts.
And second, when EVERY nut, screw & bolt on a VW is metric, why are the point, plug & tappet settings given as imperial??
My rule of thumb is; if I,m not bleeding, I haven't done it properly.
As to the original subject, I only have two gripes with manuals.
Firstly, they don't tell you you need to be double jointed to get some of the bolts.
And second, when EVERY nut, screw & bolt on a VW is metric, why are the point, plug & tappet settings given as imperial??
Well my friends are gone & my hair is grey, I ache in the places where I used to play.
PatB Casual Dubber
32 posts ยท joined Mar 2003 ยท
Because most VW literature is now written for the US market and Americans, until recently, had difficulty in obtaining or even understanding metric tools and measuring instruments.
Pat
Pat
aggri1 Insano Dub Head
824 posts ยท joined Dec 2003 ยท
Hi, I just did my first engine swap - but I started with a head-to-head long block. Mostly went very smoothly.
Here are some things I noted:
* to get the splines to mate, I had to engage 2nd gear (or any gear) to prevent the GB input shaft from turning. Otherwise I could turn the engine all I wanted and the splines never mated...
* Cleaning all the tinware takes a full day with a brush and a bucket of turps.
* Tinware screws are M6.
* Stupid fuel pump XZN socket (or whatever) are M8.
* If in doubt, reach for the 13mm.
* Using the supplied thick (~5mm) gaskets under the inlet manifolds results in carby positions which are too far apart for my linkage (all stock). Therefore, assume these are for a different motor (1700 or 2l?). After all, the previous motor didn't have them.
* I have a heat exchanger with uneven mating surfaces (to the head). It's an aftermarket Danish one. Putting a straight level across the taller pipe shows that there is approximately a 2-3mm (!!!) difference in heights, but they appear parallel. Is this normal? It means that I can't seal it against the exhaust port, which would be bad. I take it that the pipe ends SHOULD be level ("http://www.bostonengine.com/articles/hbmanifold.htm"). Shall I have it machined flat?
That's all, cool hey? I can't wait to see how it goes! (EDIT๐ I've now just gotta sort out the freakin' heat exchanger. Been under there for about a day, filing off metal from the _sides_ of the pipes where it interferes with the new AMC heads, the tops are still not level.
Cheers, A.
[ Edited on 27-12-06 by aggri1 ]
Here are some things I noted:
* to get the splines to mate, I had to engage 2nd gear (or any gear) to prevent the GB input shaft from turning. Otherwise I could turn the engine all I wanted and the splines never mated...
* Cleaning all the tinware takes a full day with a brush and a bucket of turps.
* Tinware screws are M6.
* Stupid fuel pump XZN socket (or whatever) are M8.
* If in doubt, reach for the 13mm.
* Using the supplied thick (~5mm) gaskets under the inlet manifolds results in carby positions which are too far apart for my linkage (all stock). Therefore, assume these are for a different motor (1700 or 2l?). After all, the previous motor didn't have them.
* I have a heat exchanger with uneven mating surfaces (to the head). It's an aftermarket Danish one. Putting a straight level across the taller pipe shows that there is approximately a 2-3mm (!!!) difference in heights, but they appear parallel. Is this normal? It means that I can't seal it against the exhaust port, which would be bad. I take it that the pipe ends SHOULD be level ("http://www.bostonengine.com/articles/hbmanifold.htm"). Shall I have it machined flat?
That's all, cool hey? I can't wait to see how it goes! (EDIT๐ I've now just gotta sort out the freakin' heat exchanger. Been under there for about a day, filing off metal from the _sides_ of the pipes where it interferes with the new AMC heads, the tops are still not level.
Cheers, A.
[ Edited on 27-12-06 by aggri1 ]
amazeer Bishop of Volkswagenism
3,029 posts ยท joined Nov 2005 ยท
The bakelite gaskets you speak of are for EFI intake runners and shouldnt be used on a carbed engine. You shouldnt be ABLE to use them, the manifold studs should be too short.
Heat exchangers always need a bit of a draw file to get them flat again, though yours sound way out there in the extreme. You'll need to get them very close to flat and square if you are going to get a good seal with the copper ring gaskets, and make sure they are annealed. The faces that mate with the muffler are always pretty shagged too. I always cheat with those and use a grinder, plus a liberal coating of exhaust sealer. Nothing worse than hearing a kombi go by with leaking exhaust. A pet hate of mine.
Heat exchangers always need a bit of a draw file to get them flat again, though yours sound way out there in the extreme. You'll need to get them very close to flat and square if you are going to get a good seal with the copper ring gaskets, and make sure they are annealed. The faces that mate with the muffler are always pretty shagged too. I always cheat with those and use a grinder, plus a liberal coating of exhaust sealer. Nothing worse than hearing a kombi go by with leaking exhaust. A pet hate of mine.
