THE ELECTRIC FAN SET UP ON THE JUNKA
WORKS AWSOME , NEVER GETS HOT
FREES UP HEAPS OF ENGINE AREA FOR OTHER
SHIT .
SPEAK TO WESTI HE CAN SORT YA OUT IF NEEDED
🤘
STOCK
you could find a 12v motor to drive it, but I'd suggest going to a flat fan instead. more compact, easier to find and takes up a lot less room. The only thing to consider I reckon (and I have to say I haven't done this) is the amount of extra OIL cooling you would need as it negates the factory oil cooler.
Stock, what does westi do to replace the stock cooler?
Yeah I've seen Westi's setup and it looks cool but a lot of fab which I'm not really up for.
Plus I kind of like the stock look but without the power loss. 10Hp or so is better spent at the wheels than driving a fan...
There are those centrif setups with the small fan scroll that blow straight into the cyl head tin, again not quite factory look, but adapting the motor from one of them to the factory fan might be possible.
1954 Oval long term project going nowhere
1958 Beetle drag car project
1959 Beetle project I need to sell one day
1969 Squareback
THE FAN OVER THE ENGINE RUNS CONSTANT
THERE IS THEN AN EXTERNAL OIL COOLER
MOUNTED ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE PAN
WITH ANOTHER THERMO FAN ON IT , WITH A THERMOSTAT
& ONLY CUTS IN IF NEEDED.
🤘
STOCK
You see that 2Stroke has just finished his new road car and he's running water cooled heads too!....
Seems very happy with the results so far....
humpty wrote:You see that 2Stroke has just finished his new road car and he's running water cooled heads too!....
Seems very happy with the results so far....
And the link to that is....?
I made a little more progress with the car mid week. Nothing engine related though. The other head is being welded up tomorrow. Still waiting on a data sheet for a sensor that I want to use for the cam position sensor from Motec. Finding data on sensor operating temp ranges shouldnt be this hard.
Yesterday and today i re-fitted the single piece windows and power window lift setups with all new window felt channels and scrapers.
Ive also started on the floor pan panels again which I should hopefully have finished over the weekend. More pics soon.
Cheers,
Ian
Cool thanks for the link.
Got the 2nd head water jacketed today too so the only hold up now is trying to locate a suitable sensor for camshaft position. Im still waiting on a sensor data sheet from Motec or Wolf.
Here are the pics of the second head.
Thats it for VW stuff for the weekend now though. Im playing GTR's for the rest of the weekend, changing suspension and finishing a re-tune because next weekend is a motorkarna event.
Cheers,
Ian
Come on Bug-man more pic's of the car Ian
SLAPPA
Afraid I havent made a great deal of progess in recent weeks. 2 weekends ago I entered my GTR in a motorkarna which was an all day event, and last weekend was work all weekend except for a litle vw play on the sunday.
Ive done a little more work on my floor pan sections and have finished my camshaft sensor assembly. Im using a BMW camshaft sensor mounted in a carrier that fits inside a hollowed out oil pump housing. Ive used the oil pump housing to set the depth of the sensor inside the case and to seal off the oil galleries. The camshaft has one of the bolts replaced with a stud that is a little longer so it will trigger the reluctor sensor. The EFI system going to be running a sync/reference trigger system to allow full sequential and direct fire distributorless ignition. Where the distributor was will be a belt driven 4 stage dry sump pump.
Pump housing fitted. Ive also got all the oil fittings and plugs worked out now too.
And this is more or less what it looks like. The sensor is o-ring sealed to the insert and uses 2 standard oil pump gaskets between everything else.
Ive pressure tested the heads after having the water galleries done and was pissed off to discover that what little remain of the cooling fins around the plug hole side of the heads leaks air badly because of porosity in the material. Ive had this issue fixed on one of the heads but like the porosity issue with my auto-linea case, its left me feeling pretty unhappy with the results. I am going to use the heads on a diferent engine now so they wont go to waste and am getting something better for my 2443.
For my oxy boxer ive now got a pair of custom heads being made by DRD racing heads. There is a few months waiting for them to be made but they are purpose built for my application. Made from a blank angle flow casting, water jacketed, 44x44 valves, cnc porting, etc...
The good news is Im breaking out the micrometers this weekend. I will be assmebling the engine up to a stage where its ready for heads.
I will be finishing the floor of the chassis off very soon as well, though I did find another opps.. requireing a little more welding where the roll cage bolts to the chassis, so thats another project for the weekend.
Cheers,
Ian
So its been a while since ive posted an update. It seems when I plan to not work so I can play with cars, i end up having to work the whole weekend. So with that in mind I planned for nothing and then just spent the weekend in my workshop.
At last the final assembly of the engine is underway. So far ive got the engine to short block stage which I am happy with as far as progress goes. Everything went smoothly which is no surprise considering I had trial assembled the bottom end twice before hand. So here are the pics...
Revmaster 88mm flanged chromoly crank, chevy big ends, t4 center main, and CB 5.7" h-beams. Cleaned and ready for assembly.
With Carrillo SPS CARR bolts. Amazing bolts these, using stretch torque method they torqued to 45ft-lb to achieve a 0.005" tension. Amazing for a 5/16th bolt.
Botton end done and torqued to spec.
Aircooled.net SLR welded hardenerd/resurfaced lifters with the oil hole.
Bottom end all in the case. No oil slinger on the crank either, as the case runs a front oil seal. Both seals are installed as the case 1/2s go together.
The cam has a stud used as 1 of the three bolts that hold the cam gear on the camshaft. It extends out a little further than the normal allen head bolts to function as the reference point for the EFI. The camshaft itself is a web 226 grind with 112 lobe centers, with the hardweld option and extra clearencing sourced from aircooled.net again. Its around 285 degree at 0.050", and around 0.530" at the valive with 1.3:1 rockers.
And all together at last. The 12mm raceware main studs in the case go to 46ft-lb as well. All the extra oil fittings are in the case ready for the dry sump system, which is next weeks project.
Juicy.
Thanks for your help Dave. Using bolt stretch took a little longer, but I profiled the stretch of the bolts at various torque specs and now know how much longer they get at various torque settings. Interesting seeing the results.
30ft-lb - 3 thou
35ft-lb - 4 thou
40ft-lb - 4.5 thou
43ft-lb - 5 thou
45ft-lb - 5.1 thou
46ft-lb - 7 thou
Cheers,
Ian
NOICE!😁
Reub
looks great, does make you wonder though going from a watercooled to an aircooled then back to a watercooled are you sure your not a girl with these mind changing habits?😀😀😀
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
The diference between me changing my mind and a woman is that there is some logic to what I am doing... 😂
Well here is today's progress. Ive created the pully mounts for the gilmer drive for the external oil pump. I dont get to use my lathe a lot but im really enjoying making this stuff.
The bugpack hub system pully
With the pully bolted on
I got a 80x12mm chunk of alloy cut from the propeller drive shaft of some boat.
I then machined up some pully supports that fit inside the front of the crank pully to locate it centrally.
And also to clear the 6 bolts on the pully.
So it fits snugly on the end of the crank, flush with the pully.
And here it is finished. With the outer pully spacer machined to accept a standard steel crank pully washer
Working on the body again tomorrow, fitting glass, and plastic rear windows with naca air intakes in the glass.
Cheers,
Ian
Awesome work Ian. Looking good!!
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
Extremely nice machine work and then to know you made it yourself!
Out of interest: are you only using the stock center large bolt to hold the toothed pulley into position or is the toothed pulley also attached in some way to the 6 bolts of the generator pulley?
Thanks,
Walter
'75 1303 'Renner' 2.2 T4 turbo
2443TT wrote:... fitting glass, and plastic rear windows with naca air intakes in the glass.
I've been thinking about for a while so I'm curious on your plastic windows... what spec are you going with, and are they something that's normally OK for rego or do you need an engineer sign-off ???
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI -
http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
Beetspeed wrote:Extremely nice machine work and then to know you made it yourself!
Out of interest: are you only using the stock center large bolt to hold the toothed pulley into position or is the toothed pulley also attached in some way to the 6 bolts of the generator pulley?
Thanks,
Walter
Thanks. The gilmer gear has two dowel pins in it that will have steel dowels inserted that lock the gear from spinning when it is attached to the adapter that locates the gear to the bugpack pully. Im going to have a machine shop take care of that part for me, its got to be very accurate and you only get one chance to get it right. I try to stick to machining work that I am capable of.
Sides wrote:2443TT wrote:... fitting glass, and plastic rear windows with naca air intakes in the glass.
I've been thinking about for a while so I'm curious on your plastic windows... what spec are you going with, and are they something that's normally OK for rego or do you need an engineer sign-off ???
According to QLD modification rules, all windows forward from the B pillar must be safety or factory laminated glass, but the ones behind can be plastic. So im using 5 or 6mm plexiglass. I only got to finish one yesterday, and ran out of nut-certs that im using to attach the naca scoop to the glass. I'll post a pic once ive got one finished and installed in the car.
lovely work on the lathe mate, but don't you think you should use a bolt to hold it on instead of the masking tape? 😉
but seriously, this is so hardcore. are you gonna run it in motorkhanas and stuff when it's finished? 👍
2443TT wrote:According to QLD modification rules, all windows forward from the B pillar must be safety or factory laminated glass, but the ones behind can be plastic. So im using 5 or 6mm plexiglass. I only got to finish one yesterday, and ran out of nut-certs that im using to attach the naca scoop to the glass. I'll post a pic once ive got one finished and installed in the car.
OK, cool - cheers Ian.
With the ultra wide guards, big rims and fat rubber, Naca ducts in the side windows... man it's going to be a tough lookin Beetle !!!
👍VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI -
http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
pete wood wrote:lovely work on the lathe mate, but don't you think you should use a bolt to hold it on instead of the masking tape? 😉
but seriously, this is so hardcore. are you gonna run it in motorkhanas and stuff when it's finished? 👍
Thanks for the feedback on my machine work. Not bad for a guy that operates a computer keyboard for a living hey.
Yes motorkarna is the main goal. There is no drag strip in Cairns and the nearest strip is townsville, an 8 hr return drive. They used to have an 1/8 mile track that was a 2hr return trip away, but the local car "enthusiests" bitched and moaned about the facilities so much that the organisers couldnt be bothered organising future events. As usual a minority of idiots wreck it for the rest of us. Motorkarna events are becoming increasingly popular though, and it appears that a major go-cart track up here (
www.makotrac.com) will also be opening up for motorkarna/time trials soon too. Last month I was able to enter my other car in it and it was a blast.
I decided to have a go putting the dowel's in my dry sump gear setup today. It was a lot easier than I had imagined. I just made a dowel insert sharpened to a point to mark the first drill hole. Drilled it, doweled it and then marked the opposite side. Easy as.
Its got a real bolt holding it all together now too(no tape). There is still a steel washer under the head of the bolt so it wont eat into the alloy when its tightened.
I 1/2 finished the mount for the dry sump pump today too. Will post pics when I get a chance to finish it properly.
Cheers,
Ian
Hi Ian
I'm a long-time buildup stalker, first-time post-er.. you've done an astounding job here - something you should be hella proud of! In regards to the water-cooled heads, I'm just curious as you why you didn't leave the cooling fins intact, or at the most just grind some of it down for clearence of the jacket? Wouldn't the water through the fins provide more surface area for the heat to dissapate?
Cheers
Chris
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
Your totally correct Chris. Unfortunatly there was nobody volunteering that information before I started on the process. I was hounding Marty Stags for months for a few details but in the end just had to jump in with both feed and do it.
The CB heads will still be fine for a lowish performance turbo engine (300hp or so), but for a all out drag engine the extra fins are definatly needed. Ive got enough left over parts from other engines to build a turbo 1916 that will make around 300hp or so as a backup engine. Thats what the CB heads will go onto(once i get the porosity air leaks fixed that is).
Finally I have managed to get one of the dam window naca scoops installed. So far I've had 2 sets of windows cut from diferent types of plastic so far. The first lot the plastic had flaws in, and the second lot split the moment you try and drill a hole in it. This window is actually made from a spare piece I had in storage from 3 years ago when I last put a scoop in a window. I just hope I can find another piece of this stuff somewhere.
At least it looks 1/2 decent.
Hi Ian,
1. The plastic most commonly used for such window panels is "Lexan" polycarbonate, precisely because it can be readily worked without splitting.
2. I haven't done the math, but I'm not convinced at face value that leaving the fins on air-cooled heads when water-jacketing them would improve heat flow. Thermodynamics is complicated, but my gut feel is that getting your water flow rate right is going to be the key factor that determines how many KW you can cool. Ask your local university engineering faculty to model it for you; they like that sort of challenge.
hth
Peter Hill
1975 Type 2 Double Cab
modulus.com.auYour right. The window picture was polycarbonate material. The other window material provided came from the same plastics shop but the branding was diferent. The first batch with flaws in the plastic was definatly polycarbonate as it drilled just fine. The second batch was much nicer plastic, but is nearly brittle so its not suitable at all which is why it split when it was drilled. Its great finding out these things after you pay for it...
Perhaps water cooling is a gamble to a degree, but I am convinced that provided I use an external thermostat and can get adequite airflow to the radiators it will work. Water flow is pretty irelivent. Faster water temps just mean more even temps throughout the entire cooling system. Regulation of flow too radiators via thermostats, and most importantly not re-circulating hot air around the radiator. This is true for air or water cooled. VW's without the rubber seal between the body and rear tinware dont last too long in summer up here.
Radiators must have a clear path to draw cool air from, or exhaust hot air away through or they just dont work. I learnt that from playing with nissans. The foam seals around the radiator shroud can lower engine temps 10-15 degrees if your stuck stationary in traffic in 30+ degree heat with the aircon blasting.
2443TT wrote:Perhaps water cooling is a gamble to a degree
No, I think you're on *exactly* the right track using water cooling for a high KW motor; it will also give you better temperature regulation = longer life. My only point was that I'm not convinced that leaving the fins on would help; it might even hinder.
Very cool project.
Peter Hill
1975 Type 2 Double Cab
modulus.com.auAh... I understand you now. Aparently Marty Stags leaves them on, but trims them down to a few mm just inside the jacket. I found out that litle detail after i'd already milled mine off.
I trust the guys at DRD know their stuff just as well if not better. So my new angle flow's will be a work of art but will more importantly actually work and not leak.
This is good extra cooling tips for Oxyboxer. Oilspray to pistons.
Marko wrote:This is good extra cooling tips for Oxyboxer. Oilspray to pistons.
Not just for oxyboxers ;-)
For all turbo engines where pistons may get hotter than usual its a good idea. Porsche turbo engines had even bigger jets than the n/a ones. So I got the porsche turbo ones on mine
😎'75 1303 'Renner' 2.2 T4 turbo
