Pro's and Con's of which WRX engine to use - which year? Goods and bads of models - Where is a good place to get a half cut - seems there are few available at the moment.
94 on, later the better. Buy a half cut complete only.
Westi will custom make the radiator - what about running the water lines? Best in the car or under.
In your setup, under the car. I am going through the heater channel but that is a PITA.
Should we move the gearbox forward 2 inches or not? Will there be weight transfer issues if we don't? Will the CV's be on to crap an angle if we do?
If you don't then the EJ20T will not fit under your deck lid. CV angles will be fine this is a street car you don't have bugger all wheel travel.
Any other suggestions would be great.
Shorten the sump as much as possible, buy a crankykit, get Al to do your loom, cut out as much as possible up front, it is all going to get cut anyway and if you cut it out up front you can skin the engine bay and make it nice and neat. Build a box as a stock one will not last .
Keep type 1 CV's then are a nice break point, run front and rear gearbox straps with a kafer bar, no need for engine mounts.
i think Westi was keen on engine mounts. At least if i go that way i can sell off the current kafer bar too - not that its equal in cost. I think the engineer is keen on the idea of engine mounts, even if you don't really need them. Keep the discussions coming.
Found a MY05 WRX Ej20T - 17,000ks on it, jap import so no anti theft. Comes with complete loom, ECU, all sensors etc. The guy had a half cut and sold it without engine.
Mick058 wrote:i think Westi was keen on engine mounts. At least if i go that way i can sell off the current kafer bar too - not that its equal in cost. I think the engineer is keen on the idea of engine mounts, even if you don't really need them. Keep the discussions coming.
Found a MY05 WRX Ej20T - 17,000ks on it, jap import so no anti theft. Comes with complete loom, ECU, all sensors etc. The guy had a half cut and sold it without engine.
no engine mounts needed, just bolts up like the beetle motor only useing 4 bolts no prob.
If you use a 3inch exhaust from the turbo the kafer bars get in the way.
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
pete wood wrote:no engine mounts brad? I thought you said the horns would break without them.
Yes and No.
In an off-road car where the chance of jumping and big vertical movements I would either run an engine mount or support the forks well. Also you have a rear engine cage so support can be gained once you tie it in to the roll cage and shock mounts. The Geko for example does not have engine mounts but it does have twin transmission straps and the forks supported and braces to the tray and roll cage. My Iguana on the other hand will use both Subaru Mounts and still support the forks and tie into the rollcage, but it will have a lot more HP than most VW’s out there.
The Kafer bar does just this as it ties the forks into the shock towers in a V or triangle shape with gives it the support it needs.
The EJ engine mounts are not far behind the bell housing / rear fork mounts so there is little to be gained from picking them up without substantial triangulation anyway, which as pointed out gets in the way of a lot of things. That being said if I had to pick between a support bar and changing an exhaust I would do an exhaust.
I doubt very much that you can get a good engine support system that picks up the subie mounts that does anything more than the kafer bar setup, especially if it is a 5 Bar setup. That is unless you are going to cut out major sheet metal and build a cage. There simply isn’t bugger all to tie it into.
Would I run a subie engine without a kafer bar or triangulated system from the shock towers, no, but I see plenty of people who do without issue.
There is a place here in SA called S&J Automotive that have built some of the fastest rally wrx's in this country. They are really nice people and you should be able to just call them up and have a chat. A friend has a stock internal wrx running 215kw on all fours. It is really quick but you will need a box to hold it all together. Good luck with it all. I dont know why you just didn't boost the pobjoy?
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
[quote
The Kafer bar does just this as it ties the forks into the shock towers in a V or triangle shape with gives it the support it needs.
Would I run a subie engine without a kafer bar or triangulated system from the shock towers, no, but I see plenty of people who do without issue. [/quote]
i think my torsion bars are already done, plus i've got the coil overs from CVD on the rear.
Look, the pobjoy was great and good fun, but i always liked the idea of a wrx conversion. plus, its 200hp and if it blows up, an engine will cost me 2k worst case - its quieter and EFI. VW engines are just too expensive in my mind.
Pobjoy will be out today so we can see what kind of room we've got to work with.
HAs anyone got suggestions re an aftermarket computer - it would be to suit an MY05 Ej20T - how much? Has anyone ever made up a loom using the stock ECU?
Craig Torrens wrote:[quote
The Kafer bar does just this as it ties the forks into the shock towers in a V or triangle shape with gives it the support it needs.
Would I run a subie engine without a kafer bar or triangulated system from the shock towers, no, but I see plenty of people who do without issue.
Thanks for the plug re the Kafer Bar !😎 [/quote]
I don't do plugs but I do say what works and fits well.
Mick058 wrote:HAs anyone got suggestions re an aftermarket computer - it would be to suit an MY05 Ej20T - how much? Has anyone ever made up a loom using the stock ECU?
Talk to Al - http://amauto.com.au/ he is the man and if he tells you a Stock ECU will work he will be able to provide you with a loom to make it happen.
Be very careful of people telling you stock will work unless then either know a lot about Subi's or have one of the same model.
The later the model engine the more crap in the loom and ECU that will make your life hard. For example I could do a pre 97 in my sleep but later than that is a PITA. After 2001 it gets even worse. Anything after 97 I just send to Al as it is well worth the few hundred he charges to send you back a simple install.
In the Iguana which has an 07 EJ25T I am using M800 motec. Main reason is that I can and it works with the SDL and tune I want. Also as I am using fly by wire and variable cam timing I needto ensure I can get it tuned properly outside of the ssubaru environment.
There are a lot of ECU's availible if you decide to go aftermarket I would suggest finding the dyno guy you like and seeing what he is happy to use / do / sell. If you can get it all in the same place it reduces the chances of people making up excuses why it cost so much.
I went Motec cause the state rep is a good guy and has a Dyno to do the tune for me. No one has ever had a bad word to say about Motec apart from the cost, but you get what you pay for and I want an ECU that can run under water.
Yes i know its not all on there Pete. Seems to be the case alot that bits are sold off as soon as half cuts get in - its almost instant. There ain't many latter models one around either - or early stuff due to the 10 year rule.
I'd appreciate a list of bits missing. The wrecker seemed helpful with 'bits'.