mactaylor wrote:thanks for putting the photo's up vassy still cant picture where these adjusters go anyone got a pic of them installed?
working on pics for you.......
goes in the front bolt hole of the three that hold the trailing arm to spring plate (from the inside) and spring plate drilled to fit the lip of that adjuster ........two rear holes of spring plate are enlarged to make range of adjustment bigger
marcus, you don't want to go too low for hillclimbing!!
must put the inner trailing arm bush into a fair bit of bind has anyone seen an adjuster that replaces the inner bush? and thanx daimo but what are you doing up at this hour?
The inner bush certainly makes sense but would be more of an engineering challenge.
I won't go too low Daimo, just keep the centre of gravity as low as possible while keeping good suspension travel. Hoping for compliant suspension .
Like all of us I am interested to see how this works and the subsequent effect on toe in/out etc and how all that will be managed. A learning experience for sure. 🤓
AWESOME that you're getting stuck in Marcus, and love the look of those AVO's !!!
On the engine size thing... current CAMS manual says 2% (I checked cos was sure it used to be 1%) so you should be good with 2040.
Those camber adjuster thingy's look interesting... don't suppose anyone knows of a pair available anywhere ???
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'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
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All is open and fair ... no snake oil or smoke and mirrors 😂
Dave S. do you know who I can speak with to confirm the 2% allowance as someone raised the fact that since the pistons and barrels are aftermarket the reconditioning 2% allowance might not apply? I am keen to know as bigger is better.
Heh heh - yeah - gotta be careful hey, what with our sheep stations on the line and all !!!
😉
Seems to be pretty hard to get that stuff confirmed - just comes down to the Chief Scruit on the day I think. Someone would have to protest you anyway for them to even care. Generally doesn't happen real often, but there was a case last year of an Escort that had been running in over 2000cc and someone got dirty - he got tech-inspected and then disallowed from the class since his engine was 1999cc. Bloody stupid I reckon, but there ya go.
16.2 Capacity tolerance: Vehicle classification is based on the nominal capacity stated by the entrant on the entry form. A vehicle will remain eligible for the nominated class provided the actual capacity does not exceed the class capacity limit by more than 2%.
There's a hillclimb at Mt Cotton this Sunday... I'll ask Col who's the Chief Scruit there and ask, but probably won't get a definite answer.
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
So much for the 2039cc 🙅
Spoke to the chief scrutineer at the Hillclimb today.
I don't know what they think the 2% relates to but the scrutineer said there was no way you can go 1cc pass 2l and stay in that class. So I guess at least that is the answer from the people that matter.
Interestingly I noticed on the program that the time for the 2001 to 3000cc IMP class record is a second slower that the 1601 to 2000cc class. Go figure.
Mind you I think it was Mischok in his escort setting the time for the latter.
Next weekend is an all weekend working bee on the beetle with the wives away for a 'girls' weekend. Should see some good progress
The weekend working bee is over and we didn't get as much completed as we hoped (as usual).
Anyway, at least the pan is covered in paint for the moment. No clear yet as we will wait until we have the cage in and all the other stuff that will go on, do touch ups and then clear it all.
Just need to grab a few parts to get the suspension and brakes together and we can put it back on its wheels.
I'll be needing those details on the rear camber adjusters about now so anyone (Matt, Daimo, Craig.T ??)
Looking forward to the suspension going together now.
I also need to get some detail on making a regular sway bar adjustable by using an adjustable block system. (I know it can be done)
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Thanks daimo.
I will come back to you on the spring plates.
I already have a 17mm front bar that is currently non adjustable and don't really want the expense of going for the whiteline adjustable bars. It is also my opinion that the whiteline rear bar is probably larger than what I will start out with. My rear bar will be a little smaller than my front and we will work on it from there.
I know there will be a vast array of opinions on this one. Part of my thinking also relates to using the car at higher speed circuit tracks (i.e. higher speed than the hillclimb) and not wanting a car that is too oversteer happy.
Ideally I will end up with more than one sway bar and have this for adjustment also. If I prove to be wrong I will beef up the bar/s.
Some little bits arrived in the post.
Not much but at least another step or two forward ...
Picked up the single spring plates so am ready for the adjuster locating. PM sent to you Mr Pell (Daimo) with request for some bits and pieces.
Got to the shed today and got some front end assembly done.
Thanks to Pete Page for a couple of those niggling parts that had gone missing.
It is great to see it back on two wheels at least.
Front end is neat and will be the business for what we need.
I have gone back and forth but am now settled on using the five bar (kafer style) in the rear end and just running the cage to the forks. Have decided against using the cage to pick up the rear shocks.
Just got to get the rear brakes (type 3 drums) sorted out and we're moving along 🤓
Need to do the welding for the five bar also. Just sat it on for a look see ... front bars weren't in the correct spot in the photo. ...🤪
Looks real nice Marcus, might want to throw some paint on those disc rotors, everywhere except where the dscc pads work, I hate rusty brake rotors, so many shops dont bother to paint new rotors....😉
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
it ain't gonna work like that........ouch...........the bolts into the "die" that hold the torsion stack are going to run away from the adjusters grub screw as soon as the car goes on the ground........... sorry Marcus, unless you know something we dont? (i hope so)
best fix at that stage would be to cut off the grub screw brackets and weld on some avis adjusters
be bloody low tho Matt, especially with those drop spindles, unless soome work with die grinder to bring adjustment range up, then weld in the hole that would be left under the adjuster frame..........doable😉
how do you see the postion compared to the hillbillys' Matty?
oh excuse me marcus, looking good despite❗..
......add a "quicksteer" while your at this stage, aint nothing worse than twisting the wheel through close to two rotations to "catch it", when you can have it down to one turn from lock to lock.............well after you've experienced the difference anyways
The slot is not in the correct location, it's about 90* too low. The bj adjusters have the two grub screws. If you use the other ones, may even need to end for end the torsions, it may work, but access to the adjuster screw may not work. Possibly a hex bolt instead, depending exactly where the bracket gets located.....probably better to just cut it all out and refit the adjusters correctly. The stock reference is lost but can work around that ok.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
I am glad I went to bed before I read this or it would have been a crappy nights sleep. My DH (ex-mate) 😬 from Toowoomba fitted the adjusters, and assured me he new what he was doing. I am interested to try and understand now if there is a solution. Tell me more about the quick steer Daimo.
Trev will be p#$@&ed !!!
