theres heaps on the market from budget empi jobbies from Classic VW
36 Bridge Street
Rydalmere
2116 NSW
Australia
Thats where I collect my children!
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Just to be niggly,the pictures of the adjustables shown aren't 3 bolt struts
was just going to say that.
http://www.volksconversions.com.au/SAVE0002.JPG they are 3 bolt struts
no they are 2 bolt
Ooops - just looked again.
The one on the left is 3 bolt
😊
this is 3 bolt
Futue te ipsum!!!
Not 3 Bolt ! Now that sounds like an important fact lol. I was going to buy them so pleased that was pointed out. Iit sounds like I should make sure that Rydalmere VeeDub have them for my 3 bolt front end first by the sounds of it. As Rydalmere is way closer than Queensland. Thanks all
Hi
Im not sure what future plans you have for the car, but your going to fit wider wheels you need to go for the struts with a skinny spring like bizarre posted.
Steve
To be honest I would prefer to have standard wheels, as the ones on it now are wider than i like. But I really have no plans at all in changing whats on it now. I am basically going to leave the car as is. Only plans are get engine running nice, Tidy up interior fix body up and respray. Its actually for my wife and son to use. The skinny bizaar do sound a good idea though as it will give my son the option later I spose. I am also still debatting just getting the one standard strut as well now. As that will save me a few bob in the short term. But even with that, should I be replacing both?
Must admit though that the adustable does sound good as I can, as was pointed out adjust for various wheels.
Hey David, as someone has widened the gaurds on your bug with standard 4" rims its gonna look like a fat women on roller blades
i'd stick with the good ol sunrasiers its got now
the more tread you have on the black stuff the better
you only need the slimline narrow coil style struts if you want rims wider than 6" plus theres abit of a price difference between them and stock style adjustables
whilst a stock strut would be the ideal budget solutuion how can you beat the flexiblily of:
Bug goes up....Bug goes down
Yer I do agree Joel, but will I need other things to? Like special inserts / fitting kits to use them or can I use stuff I already have? What is that cat doing?
i'd just got home from brissy, he's probably licking squished insects off my bumper bar
you just buy them as a package deal, strut housings and inserts.
then just use your old springs and upper bearing housing and bolt in
Dropped in to classic vee dub. Bloody cool stuff, but never had drivers side winder adjuster in stock so gotta go back anyway ! Still a bit confused re struts as guy reckons I do need springs as well, so never bought them as gonna be busy with engine this weekend. And never had 370 bucks on me anyway. But def looks the place to get some bits i need.
the ones CVD sell just use the original stock springs
Weekend again so back to Beetle. I got given a passenger strut during the week, so am at this stage just gonna fit that, and later for sure gonna go adjustable. At least this way I can concentrate on getting the front end right first (i still dont really know if it is just the Strut that needs replacing) gotta take care of the dosh as I know there will be a few more expenses still. Well will give you an update at end of day.
is it just the strut you got or does it have the stub axle still attached?
cos im sure you will find like most people do that separating the strut and stub axel on a 3 bolter isnt the most pleasent of jobs as they rust together
trick i use is leave the strut bolted into the car, remove the sway bar and inner control arm bolt as well as the brake disc
now slog the shit out of the stub axle with a BFH and working around it should start to break loose
i read about guys on SBO all the time fighting with heat and pullers etc in bench vices yet my method hasnt failed me yet
Pleased I checked this first. Just found out there is a bike show at panthers today so had not started on Beetle, and will wait till later to start now. I was though gonna remove top bolts first. So pleased I never, as it is not attached to stub axle.
PHEW
Joel wrote:i read about guys on SBO all the time fighting with heat and pullers etc in bench vices yet my method hasnt failed me yet
My method works well to
ONLY buy 2 bolt cars
works every time for me
Futue te ipsum!!!
Now u tell me ! lol
Am starting to feel pleased I am not putting adjustables on or would be doing this twice.
Whats the story of removing this one (arrowed) I have tried belting from bottom with nut on but dont want to continue if that is gonna damage it. Jeez I hope it is the strut, It just dont look too bad in real life. But must be as cant see anything else. Re other matter Joel.
Will as u say hold off for now as may just be more, but will pm uwhen ready, Cheers 4 that
Use the ball joint separator...give me a PM, I'm not far from you..
John
I have managed to get strut of stub axle without removing that link so all is good. I hope I have caught you before you leave! But thanks for the offer
David
No worries..
While I got you I am cleaning both insides with emery cloth to put back together. The rubber seal between stub axle and disc brake section is torn so gonna replace that first. Any other things I should check and replace?
while its apart, replace all the rod ends & ball joints, cant remember how much but i picked it all up from vintage last time i was in syd, also a bushing kit might be worth your while since your taking it apart a wee bit, may as well do it in one hit the way i see it, just my 2c, good to see
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member 🙂
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less
they're bloody tight eh?
if theres no slop in the ball joint just replace the seal
same deal with the tierod
i normally take the caliper and disc of the spindle, you would be amazed how much weight that takes away
b4 its all reassambled put a nice big glob of grease between the strut and spindle, it makes it so much easier to get apart next time
and once its back together be sure to set your wheel bearing play right,
ive killed one spindle cos they were to tight and another cos they were too loose
I found replacing the control arm swaybar bushes with new nolethane ones, it got rid of the 'shimmy' in the steering. That is wobbles at high speed, or after hitting a bump, or a combination of the two.
Bloody tight is right! that was good advice re keeping them done up at the top though, and I never took the dics off cuz I could not work out how lol or did I manage to remove that ball joint. Still it never stopped anything once progress had started, but I will pull apart to have a look and certainly will take the advice offered by you all re: control arm swaybar bushes with new nolethane ones, rod ends & ball joints
This has me worried tho
"b4 its all reassambled put a nice big glob of grease between the strut and spindle, it makes it so much easier to get apart next time
and once its back together be sure to set your wheel bearing play right,
ive killed one spindle cos they were to tight and another cos they were too loose" God I hope I can work out right play!
its not hard to get them right
the tinyest bit of play was is ok but i did it up till there was none
next thing driving down the motor way at 110km/h my front left wheel locked solid
the outter wheel bearing broke apart and the inner race fused itself to the spindle
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?action=attachment&tid=75244&pid=702392&aid=73182
That torn rubber cover shown above, dont seem easy to remove? Is that the sort of job i need a puller for? And if it is, would the same puller take the linkage ball joint out ? May need to take you up on yr offer John :=)
Can see now strut was bent BTW
i replaced one of my ball joint boots about 12 months ago but cant remember for the life of me how i got it apart
i would have used either a tierod splitter fork or i have a little 4" 3 legged puller
both invaluable tools when working on vw front ends
but in a pinch u could leave the inner control arm camber bolt in, upper strut bolted in, remove the swaybar end from the control arm and slog it downwards with a BFH
