Camo, you telling me your trade secrets are you mate 😂
for me to spend 4-5k on a g/box, i need to spend 4-5k on something shiny for my wife!
Ill keep saving my 'pocket money' and hope to get there before the end of the decade. Maybe Rudd will have another drunken night and apply more cash handouts 😂
Hopefully she'll feel sorry for the beetle when its sitting there without a g/box!
will those fuel lines pass an engineer's test. I guess the lines might be protected by the water pipes or are you planning on putting some type of cover over them. Also where the fuel lines pass through the floor pan under the fuel tank, maybe put a rubber grommet or similar to stop them rubbing steel on steel.
With that said and seeing all the good work done by Westi, he has probably already addressed these things and has a plan.
Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
As you can see the alternator etc has been moved, manifold rotated 180degrees which gives us access and ROOM (no need to cut firewall out to fit air to water cooler.
The engine bay water lines are all finished and stock lines etc were used which is great! (see top right of engine bay). Looks factory and means its easier to get parts when needed.
And last photos for today - gives you an idea of the size of the air to water pod.
This thing is good for 550hp (not that ill need that much!) so Plazmaman tells us. Nice looking unit. Should sit just in front/above throttle body - well i think thats the idea - in a 36hp engine bay you seem to run out of room pretty quick - but man it looks good - minimum cutting and very factory look!
Loving it 🙂 very cute little intercooler there. Sure won't be any room under the bonnet once thats in.
So do you reckon you may get under 14 on the quarter? 😂
Looking good.
One thing, what is that O2 sensor you have in the manifold? It looks like a dirty old Nissan thing which won't work with the ECU. The front sensor is not an O2 sensor as such, it is a wideband of sorts and the heating of it is controlled by the ecu. You will get half a dozen fault codes and an unhappy ecu without the correct sensor.
The rear(post cat) sensor is more a traditional O2 sensor but is also heat controller by the ecu. The current control to heat it is all monitored also and codes will appear if the current is too high or too low.
When I was over at Westis the other day he mentioned that O2 sensor that was fitted was just an old one to block up hole while everything was being fitted.
