Cam
big 24mm one on the front, small 19mm one on the rear. Thats what I have found best for my car, regardless of what powerplant was in the back. I tried a 24mm bar on the rear & I couldn't keep the car straight, even on the softest setting.
regards
Jak
Craig, the car will be stripped (of interior) yet run all glass and steel panels. So far I have koni reds for all for corners, squareback torsion bars for the rear and camber eccentric adjusters for the front.
Cage & LSD will follow, right now we just want to get the suspension sorted so as we can move one step closer to being on track.
I've got the Whiteline adjustable race bars on my BJ/IRS bug.... from memory they're BWF8XZ front and BWR1XZ for the rear, and I think are 24mm and 28mm respectively.
VERY happy with them... the adjustability lets you tune to your driving style/liking.
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Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
they make them and even use the original numbers (i think). i just got a 2inch narrowed off them. They still use the whiteline 'fittings' but they make the bar itself.
They were the cheapest and other Veedub stores seemed to buy from them at the same price as average Joe and then add their healthy margin.
Find a solid starting point with:
- Stock spec 4 wheel alignment.
- Get front and rear track the same. Front may need spacers or something.
- Level suspension stance.
- Koni reds and type 3 rear spings are a good start. All suspension components hould be new or at least serviceable.
- A set of caster shims behind the lower front beam.
- Good R-spec tyres. If Yokohama aim for 32 hot on all corners after a good run. Start at 30 and bleed back to 32 the moment you get off the track. Then measure the temps the tyres cool too. Note that will be different for each track. All tyres should increase in pressure at least 4 psi and as much as 10 psi if the suspension is working properly and if you're driving hard enough.
Take the car to a sprint and see what it does first.
Then play with one thing at a time to get the car to handle how you want.
You can play with no cost stuff first like suspension height and wheel alignment.
Then borrow some swaybars. You can set the car up to be a go-kart like a hillclimb car or a pussy cat like my car. Just see what it does first.
IRS BJ pans have great suspension geometry. I don't think you need to do much.
That's just what I think is the easiest way to go. I buggered up by buying all the good shit and then taking it off because it wasn't necessary for my style of driving.
you dont want a go kart style of a car unless you're running circuits..................if you're running hillclimbs or tarmac rally stuff then you need suspension movement👍
sorry to intrude, but i have started racing,autokhanas,circuit, whatever realy.
so why do you set up the car different from a hillclimb to a circuit etc. and what dictates why you need suspension travel on a hillclimb race to a circuit race ??
Thanks CT, that info is a big help, what are you running for sway bars at the moment?
Not intruding at all Chris, the more discussion we get on such topics the better it is for everyone.
Circuits generally tend to have much higher speed corners with much more tarmac width to play with (especially on corner exit) ideally if you're exiting a high speed left hander (for example) you want to be on the throttle from the apex and having the car mildly understeer by the time you're at the corner exit ripple strip/start of the straight. Having a very stiff car set-up helps with this because you eliminate body roll (bleeding obvious) and in turn stops the suspension reaching the bottom of it's travel, which would cause the balance of the car to be upset (by hitting a bump stop and rebounding off a nicely loaded up tire) and forcing you to make adjustments mid turn. Circuits tend to be far smoother than hillclimbs and/or tarmac rallies (which can often be on public roads) so dips, ruts & pot holes are not uncommon (from what I've seen anyway), with such events you want a much smoother and compliant suspension set-up that can handle such surfaces with a minimum of suspension crashing and keeping the tires in contact with the road as often as possible. I would assume the hillclimbers would probably need a far more 'turn in' set-up on their cars due to their corners being a lot tighter.
I hope that makes some sort of sense, there are a lot of guys on here with far more experience than me who could no doubt enlighten you or tell me I'm totally wrong 😀
No rear bar gives more confidence for entering corners fast without oversteer.
The rear bar helps get the nose to the apex earlier so you can get on the gas earlier. But you need to be alittle more cautions because it's taily at the limit.
I need to a back to back comparison against the clock to find out which is quicker.
It's important to note that CBB welded drop spindles are a feature of my car which makes it shift weight to the front and turn-in so well. Note CB performance ones were no good. Rod Penrose has Chromoly ones if others want to go down this path. I'm not sure they're legal in improved production.
There are a million different ways to approach car set-up. This is just mine.
cheers for that info cam. i found my car understeared when doing the autokhanas but felt pretty nuetral on the circuit.
im still running a swinga with chromoly dropped spindles from rod,16mm front bar "non adjustable",adjusters,koni reds all round,camber compensator, adj spring plates,6&7 inch fuch's with 185/55 &205/50 khumo ecsta medium compunds,stock discs and type 3 drums and still the single circuit master,ha ha....
im yet to try a rear bar or bigger torsion bars...
chris fabian wrote:sorry to intrude, but i have started racing,autokhanas,circuit, whatever realy.
so why do you set up the car different from a hillclimb to a circuit etc. and what dictates why you need suspension travel on a hillclimb race to a circuit race ??
Hillclimbs are often held on 'real' roads, complete with bumps. You need suspension travel so the car isn't hammered
chris fabian wrote:cheers for that info cam. i found my car understeared when doing the autokhanas but felt pretty nuetral on the circuit.
im still running a swinga with chromoly dropped spindles from rod,16mm front bar "non adjustable",adjusters,koni reds all round,camber compensator, adj spring plates,6&7 inch fuch's with 185/55 &205/50 khumo ecsta medium compunds,stock discs and type 3 drums and still the single circuit master,ha ha....
im yet to try a rear bar or bigger torsion bars...
i'd go to 195/55 on the front to rid some of that understeer.......i never had any success reducing push till i went beyond the 185's........for me i'd do away with the camber compensator and have a "proper" sway bar out back too. works for me with link pin/ swinger
do you have the car rake with the nose up, or at least level?, i have played with this a lot and it makes a hell of a difference with the swing axle rear
don't forget to have a play with the adjustability of the konis.
hey damo,the stance is level,what did you find was best.
my front tracks is about 30mm narrower then the rear so im getting some spaces for the front to bring it out a lil.
when the tyres are worn out "6 months propably" ill will be looking for some cheap cookies then get some nice race rubber and wider fronts like you said.
as for the rear bar, what size do you think??
i found it hard to tell the difference by hand when i was playing with the adjustment on the konis.
yeah , actually an inch up on the nose felt best for me
i use 22mm rear with 18 front (with standard still on).......
i don't mind things harsh and hard, so i wound the shocks up to 3/4 of their adjustment.........put a line with texta accross the two halves..........work out how many rotations they go from soft to hard..............then starting back at the line again, wind em up 3 parts of way.
CT is a fan of using all 6 inch wheels to keep the rear track narrower..........so much to try before you go to spacers. a little less pressure in the front works well.....say 4psi less than the rear
not sure if it's relevant, but I'm using an 18mm rear bar on my buggy with no bar on the front and wagon torsion bars out back even with a heavy subaru in it. I found that on the dirt it offers me more predictable drift and less understeer with little weight in the front. and like Jak said, I wouldn't want any thicker bar on the back on the road otherwise you end up with BULK wheelspin through corners.
I wouldn't be too concerned about an LSD if u funds don't allow. My last track day at Wakefield, I had very very little wheelspin out of corners due to the tyres. I suppose some wouldn't class it as very entertaining LOL but I don't have an LSD. With street tyres on it's on for young & old, but with soft compound, not medium compound, it totally transforms how the car handles.
regards
Jak
