Thanks mate. Should be fun getting them sorted. the Italian jobs are hard to come by in good order - or cost the same a new one rebuilt. I have not heard anything bad about the Spain built units. Terry
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Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Didnt figure I would go to the efforts of setting up your Dells only to put on new Webers anyway -
Then work out the ignition ! - only to find out it is the heads❗
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I asked for:
air jet - 175
emulsion tube F11
main jet - 140
Received
air jet - 200 😠
emulsion tube F11
main jet - 115 😠
I think the main jet is way too small. I have a set of 140's So will start there I think.
The idle jets are 50 - which is good.
The other hassle I have is the Hex linkage - the arms won't slide the rotten things. What's the best idea - get some emory paper on the bar OR do I try to stretch the arms open. My only concern is that I stretch it too far and crack the thing. Any thoughts? Terry
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Thanks Matt - got the arms and linkages sorted pretty well tonight I think - gotta love the Dremel!
I will pull them down tomorrow and go through them - the last thing I need is a heap of fuel pulling debris into the smaller galleries! Cheers. Terry
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BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
How did you know? 😬
Why would anyone supply a 40 with 28 vents in? 36 I could understand perhaps.
I am now seeing why some are much cheaper then perhaps others. DRD kit looked a lot better and they claim that they pull each carby down and rebuild to your specs. They were $150.00USD more though. So - not sure which is the right way to go - a bit of mucking about setting up or get it right and pay more upfront - well it might cost about the same ultimately.
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BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
Ok - I see. Mine currently is a stock 1776- will the 28's work with the correct jets?
Funny thing is my last carbies were IDF 36 with 32 vents - so IDF 40's with 28 vents seems a bit mixed up ?
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BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
Possibly
I will admit i have never "personally" tried. All my trusted information has said to go with the 32's etc
My only hands on experience was a friend's 1916 similar to mine that had 28s in a set of IDF40's and it didnt work
Admittedly the owner wouldnt fiddle and try and sort it
You can ream out your 115's but the 28's will need to be replaced.
Try the 28's and 115's
You may be one of te people that can get it to work
Yeh - should be an interesting experiment. Where do I find replacement venturis though. Did a search on Samba - nothing there, fleabay either. Might have to ring someone! Terry
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me find a link for you when I get home from work.
it may help
you can also buy fuel miser carburettor repair kits for webers at Autopro. if you need gaskets and stuff.
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Thanks for the tip Matt on the cleaning - I did a bit last night but only did it by 1/2. There was quite a bit of flaky metal and a few machine shavings in there. Will go a bit harder this time.
Ian - the article on set up is great - I knew there was float setting involved - but didn't know where to find an article on that. Cheers.
Venturies - a lathe! - what a good idea - as long as there is enough material there to machine I guess. I suppose I can always take them out to 32 - try them and then try 34 I guess via that method - Bizarre - you might have a spare set of 28's too I would imagine ha ha.
One of the US site mentions that the enrichment circuit is a good thing to block off - but have know idea how to do this or if this is actually a good idea - any thoughts?
Thanks heaps guys -
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Price: $ 14.95 When the accellerator pump diaphragm pushes fuel, some goes to the squirter, and some goes BACK to the float bowl thru the pump bypass. IDFs come with a 55, and if you drop this to a zero, ALL the fuel is squirted towards the cylinder (not back into the float bowl), which eliminates hesitation, especially with today's oxygenated fuels! You need 1 bypass per carb. IDAs come with a 0 Bypass.
This is off the aircooled.net website. Any thoughts on this for IDF - while I am setting them up. I am sure the Italians had a reason for it - but then again might have been too much wine with lunch! Terry
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BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
spdterence wrote:One of the US site mentions that the enrichment circuit is a good thing to block off - but have know idea how to do this or if this is actually a good idea - any thoughts?
See the anodized plate on the left carb
That is the enrichment block off plate
You carbs wont fit if you havent taken these off.
They are not needed. Alfas used a cort of choke set up
Never heard of that other thing about by pass - but every thing Jon Conolly has told me has been true
Definately the vents need to be change and they have enough material to be machined out. Mike at CBB did a set for me recently, and as we were chasing tuneup we did back to back dyno runs on his machined venturi's and a set that were from Weber that were not machined (ie cast 34mm) and the machined version is what gave a better fuel mixture throughout the rev range (after getting the emulsions right). These were 34mm which I would recommend for a very mild 1915. This was an auto engine and we wanted perfect jetting and after 8 dyno sessions changing exhaust chokes jets etc we ended up with 34 vent; 55;140;200;F7.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
There were 8 dyno sessions as the owner had too much input and was trying to save money by doing much of the work himself which can create some issues. We did exhaust changes and had some issues with the NEW Webers being full of swarf etc etc....it all takes time and dont assume anything was the lesson there. The F7's are a richer low end of the main circuit emulsion and cured a slight flat spot but the gas readings were amazing how much smoother it all became as the correct jetting combo all came together. The dyno operator couldn't believe what we achieved with such a simple change. He hated Webers saying they are hard to get right.....they are Haltech expert's and were really surprised to see the Webers fall into place eventually.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Cleaned up the carbies. Lots of crap in there! So that was a good thing.
Now the bad thing. The buggers won't fit! The manifolds seem to be taking the carbies too close to the fan housing. I think I need to machine the base of the manifolds to change the angle of the manifold, then take some more off the top to level the carbie again.
Ah the joys. 🤪
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I know my Dells had issues, but it was only about 8mm of so. I got a nice ball hammer and put a 1inch wide 5mm deep dish in the side and there was also a casting that stuck out on the dells so jsut slightly filed it back.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
