Fantastic work Ian. A real credit to you.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Thanks guys.
Made a little more progress today. The header and turbine housings are now coated with a ceramic primer, which was this afternoons progress. They get a coating of turbo x black ceramic tomorrow.
Also sourced a relay and fuse box from a late model kia rio today. It will become the main power distribution point for all the car's power. It came with 4 great heavy duty mult-pin connectors, which i'll be using to allow the engine to be wired through a single connector. Hope to put in a big day on it tomorrow.
Cheers,
Ian
That's one hot engine Ian.
Looks much better with the black rocker covers.
Cheers
D
Ok long time no post again. I had some major engineering challanges come up that required some creative engineering to work around.
The first was the starter motor pinion. That actually turned out to be easy. What turned into a mission was just getting the engine back in the car. The gearbox had been fitted with a SAAB 900 input shaft mounted throw out slave cylinder and throw out bearing. The problem was that it was 15mm too tall so the engine wouldnt fit. I had a go at altering the saab bearing by machining the pistons and the housing a bit to get less height but in the end i could only get it down another 10mm so Ive had to source something else. A few day's of googling and I found this:
This is a Howe racing billet throw out bearing, courtasy of Summit racing in the US. $250+USD later, but it was the only way I was going to get this to fit. The height of this bearing compressed is only 40mm.
The inside of the bearing is designed to slip on a colar that goes around the input shaft. Completely diferent to the Saab bearing. It also has an o-ring on the inside, which is there to stop the bearing slipping around all over the place, not to actually seal anything. The piston is visible in this picture, and is the center part that pushes the billet outer part (with the hose fittings connected) forward towards the pressure plate.
So with a butchered saab throwout bearing in my posession I decided to use the inner piston of this bearing to make the collar that the howe bearing could slide on. The alloy mounting plate was machined with an interference fit, and then heated to allow the inner colar to be slipped in. I havnt done a lot of this sort of thing, and I admit i get a huge buzz out of having succeeded in making this thing. Then having it actually work!. The pin you see coming out of the mounting plate is used to stop the bearing assembly from spinning in the bell housing. I put a seal inside this plate as well to seal onto the input shaft.
Next in goes the bearing. Fluid supply via the lower hose and a remote bleeder on the top. The bearing has a maximum of about 12mm throw, but that is determined by the master cylinder size. A data sheet provided showed the 3/4" master cylinder I had chosen for this to be perfect for getting 5-6mm throw which is required to operate the kennedy pressure plate. I can adjust free play and preload on the actuator that links the pedal to the master cylinder.
Last of all was the absolute bitch of a job of trying to get the engine back in. I'd done the clutch twin plate alighment a few weeks ago using a borrowed RX7 input shaft but after my first installation attempt of the engine, the plates had all moved. I wasnt able to get hold of the guy I had borred it from again, so ended up using an old vw input shaft with a ton of tape wrapped around it.... which didnt align the spines. 3 attempts, a lot of profanity and 2 hrs later I finally got it in.
So the engine is now bolted in at last! Next tomorow will be installation of the header and the turbo's and intercooler plumbing. The only chalanges remaining are setting up the oil supply lines for the turbo's, and the engine oil supply/return and thermostat. Of course there is wiring the ecu, too.
Other progress.... The car is now wired for the most part. All dash gauges, main relay and fuse box, fuel pump, LED indicators (mounted inside the 911 headlamps), parkers, and incredably bright Xenon HID 6000K H1 headlights. Its not an understatement to say that the lights on the VW are now easily as good if not better than that which are on my GTR. Simply amazing, and well worth the money that getting new genuine german porsche 911 headlamp assemblies. Ive sealed the headlamp to the guards using some pinch weld rubber. Its a bit bigger than I would have liked, but the look is growing on me.
Had to pull the tank so I could fill the clutch master cylinder with fluid. Going to bleed the brakes tomorrow too before it all goes back together properly.
Thats all for now. Hope to have more to post tomorrow or thursday.
Cheers,
Ian
great work, a real sophisticated bug, looking forward to the seeing finished product
Thanks mate.
Oh yeah, i forgot to mention... the clutch feels like steeping on a marshmellow. Very smooth in its operation, and because its only a 1700lb plate it should be pretty streetable still with any luck.
Looking good Ian....
What was the solution to extend the starter pinion Ian?
Getting close now!!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Fantastic Ian!!!
How fast is that little fuel tank going to drain? I love the colour, the motor, the headlights ......
6000k headlights!!!!! Cops are sooo gonna love you mate LOL
Had a mate with 5000k and he got pulled up all the time and people were always flashing high beam at him which was funny.
Good to see engine has finally found it's home!!
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
I fully expect to be stopped regularly bo the cops when driving this on the road. I'll definatly be carrying around copies of the engineering paperwork with me so I dont have to get the car inspected every time it happens. I dont think i'll be driving at night all that often so im not too concerned about the colour of the lights.
Here's some pics of the modified starter motor drive setup. Dave had made the alloy adapter for the box when he had it in his posession, but ive machined a little off both sides of it to narrow it about 15mm.
I then got the toyota camry 3S starter, remove the splined pinion gear, and machined off the gear part so I had a spline to fit the starter. I then made a sleeve to extend the pinion another 15mm that accepts a standard vw pinion gear from a german 12v starter motor. The splined part is then held in place with a grub screw to a flattened section on the splined output shaft on the starter.
Im pretty happy with how its turned out, but the tolerances in the drive mechanism of the starter leave a little to be desired. Im not sure if this is typical for these toyota gear drive starters or if i just have a cheap non-genuine one. When it throws out though it seems to tighten everything up and there is less movement when its at full extension. I wont know if its going to work till i give it a go i guess.
Cheers,
Ian
awesome progress, its been awhile since i looked at this, how is the headlight mounted into the bucket itself? doesnt have any mounting screws visable & thats what i want with mine eventuallly...
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member 🙂
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less
STIDUB wrote:awesome progress, its been awhile since i looked at this, how is the headlight mounted into the bucket itself? doesnt have any mounting screws visable & thats what i want with mine eventuallly...
Ive used a hook at the top and bottom of the headlight to hook onto the headlight trim from the inside. These hooks are basicly a piece of flat 1mm steel plate, bent appropriately and bolted to the headlight bucket in the guard. The bolt holes in the guard are slotted so I can pull the headlight back flush against the guard.
There are no visible screws from the outside of the headlamps. The porsche headlight trim doesnt have the little tab at the bottom that the vw headlamps have.
This is looking absolutely insane Ian! It's good to see the projesct is starting to draw to a close. The finished product is a credit to all the hard you've put and it's turned out amazing.
I'm loving the slave cylinder inside the bellhousing idea. I'm going to look into something like this for the hydraulic clutch I'm putting on my buggy.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Impressive!!!
I still can't get over how wide those guards are 😵💫👍👍
cheers
D
Another update...
The brake fluid resivour is now full and the car now has brakes. I have mounted the battery inside the car on the front firewall, and the main power wiring to the front of the car is now done.
The basic car wiring is all but done now too. I just need to wire tail lights and make a new variable windscreen wiper controller. The speedo is now wired to the ABS sensors on the left front wheel hub, and seems to work though it will need to be re-calibrated once the car is driving again.
The loom kit for the ecu wont arrive till tuesday or wednesday next week. That part of the car is being wired very seperately from the rest of the car, using a single connector to allow the engine to be easily unplugged and disconnected should removal be required.
Ive got the main part of the turbo header back on the car too and both turbo's mounted. No pictures of that just yet. Its not finished so im holding out toll tomorrow properly before taking more photos of that. Ive got to make up some new wastegate actuator mounts too, as because the housings have been rotated the standard mounts put the actuator rod in the wrong place to operate the wastegate flaps. Should be pretty easy to sort out though.
Cheers,
Ian
What wiring kit did you end up deciding to use Ian?
Cheers
D
The wiring panel is from a late model kia rio. It uses the modern micro blade fuses and fits pretty good. The rest of the loom is custom. No kit as such.
Cheers,
Ian
most interesting/unusual battery placement ive seen to this day 👍
Volkswagen Drivers Club of Queensland - member 🙂
STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less
Ian the lack of update is very unsatisfactory!
No good enough. especially now as you / we are just about on the gravy stroke this is extremely frustrating!
Dont loose sight of the fact that there has been well over 50,000 views of this post and there must be many other post storkers like myself desperate for another fix!
Regards Frustrated 😵😵💫🙄
23 windows ...8 too many!
CRAFT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😎
Sorry guys the past few weeks have been pretty crazy. I had surgery on my jaw and took a week off everything, and then out and bought a house.
Ive made a little more progress with the car. The pressure side of the induction side of the engine is now in the car. I'd like to share some photo's but managed to lose my camera. I still need to do the air intakes for the turbo's. The alternator is now wired and installed, fan belt, and the starter motor in and wired.
Ive been focusing on wiring for the moment. All the injectors and sensors for the EFI are installed and wired to a short loom, which I will be terminating to a multi-pin plug tomorrow. Ive yet to run the main supply and return lines for the oil system, but the fittings for that, plus the thermostat and all the plumbing for the front mounted oil coolers is all on its way from the US. That should hopefully be here inside a week.
All going well my house settles on the 23rd, so i'll me moving over the christmas-new year break. So the goal is to get as much done as possible on the car till then... The less parts to box up the better is the plan.
Hopefully i'll find that camera soon too.
Cheers,
Ian
Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE
http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915 trans to a Type 1.
Steve
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE
http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915 trans to a Type 1.
Steve
I won't deal with the engine centre ever again.....once bitten, twice shy!
ps. you can get them direct fromt the states...
Reub
Woops, thats good to know
Yep the new house has a huge double bay shed with plenty of room for a hoist too. The starter motor drive looks pretty radical but the gear is only really 14mm past where the factory toyota drive gear was. If it fails to work it will be due to the movement in the shaft. If that happens i'll make a supporting shaft arrangement that will eliminate any side to side movement of the pinion..
reub wrote:1303Steve wrote:Hi
Looking good, I trust the new house has a good shed or room for one.
Just in case the starter doesn't work out, Bigrudi on here told me about these people that do starters HI-TORQUE by IMI PERFORMANCE
http://www.enginecentre.com.au/starters.html, he's fitting a 915 trans to a Type 1.
Steve
I won't deal with the engine centre ever again.....once bitten, twice shy!
ps. you can get them direct fromt the states...
x2 on that reubs
This is fu...ing porn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
...always there is someone faster than you...
www.bugaru.grHi Everyone,
Well its been a while but today I finally went out and bought a new camera. So here's the long over-due update at last.
The main challange (and expense) of late has been working out an effective way to route the supply and return oil lines for the dry sump system. Ive got it all planned now, but still need to make the purchase. I'll be using bulkhead fittings to route oil through the front firewall under the fuel tank into the driver compartment, where I will then be running the supply and return oil lines through the hot air tubes that run through the body to the back of the car. There they will terminate to another bulkhead setup mounted on the rear firewall, and finally on to the pump. Supply lines will be -16 and return will be a -12. The return goes back to the thermostat and then straight into the tank.
In the meantime though the plumbing for the front oil coolers and thermostat is 95% completed. The thermostati is also fixed in place and will soon have a bracked made up for it that will hold it to one of the factory tank mounts to make the whole setup more rigid.
Oil cooler lines are all in -10 stainless braided hose.
The engine is now installed again, turbo header mounted, and turbo's installed. The header and turbines are internally ceramic coated with an aluminium/ceramic coating and externally coated with turbo x.
Oil supply and returns for the turbo's are finished. Ive used a short 5/16th hard line/banjo fitting at the turbo end and it terminates to a -4 AN fitting. The oil supply for the turbo's is in the block and splits off to 2 -4 AN fittings as well. Ive put an oil restrictor in the block end of the arrangement to keep it all simple.
Fan shroud all bolted into place now too.
This is how the rear end looks now. The engine is now 90% wired as well. Ive completed wiring for all the sensors and injectors. All that remains is the ignition system, which is currently on hold till I move to my new house inside the next 2 weeks. (9th Woo Hoo!). The new shed is great too! 6x6 meters and plenty of room for a hoist.
The plan for the ignition system is to use 4 x Blaster SS ECore coils with an MSD DIS 4 CDI system. As the ignition is distributorless I want to operate the ignition as a 4 coil-on-plug system, as opposed to a 2 coil/waste spark arrangement. It makes for a more tidy wiring too as the cylinders can all have short wiring to the coils. As opposed to centrally mounted coils and long leads to the cylinder pairs.
A few more pics of the wiring.
This is the power distribution panel from a Kia Rio. The micro fuses, and modern relays are great and better yet it fits there like it was made for a VW.
Ive got all the electronic gauges wired now as well. There is a 30 wire numbered multi-core wire that runs through the car to the back carrying signals forward for the gauges, and also control signals for the fuel pump and thermo fans from the Ecu.
Thats about all for the moment.
Cheers,
Ian
WOW!! 😵 😵 😵
1969 Beetle - June
1974 L Bug - Gwendolyn
2002 Bora V6 4Motion - Anita
