quite possibly but i wanna get my 1776 back in and setup so i can put it on the market.
id like to have it running in car so potential buyers can see how it drives though so theres one good to come out of all this
funny as it may seem though yea its a shame but im not terribly upset, this situation is yet another reason why i went the conversion
another engine can just be slotted in and away u go, no frigging around with tuning setting up carbs etc just plug and play
its just getting hold of one
i havent done much in the way of tracking one down yet but the subi boys are looking after me and are gonna try and chase one up,
he tells me he can get late 90s/early 00s EJ20s for alot cheaper than EJ22 with the added benefit of being a much newer engine and the power difference between the two is fairly minimal
yea that eases the pain the fact that they're so cheap
hell 3weeks ago i sold a plain old 1600 twinport running well but usual oil leaks for $600 and the buyer was more than happy with it at that price
vw motors arent cheap anymore
my mate reckons he can get me a good lib or imp from the damaged auctions for no more than $300 with a good engine but ill see what the subi boys find first
It's just a suby motor, plenty more where that one came from. You should just put some new head gaskets on the suby and keep driving it. Just keep some spare water in the car 😀
That sort of weird damage is why I like the idea of buying a front cut rather than a motor, as you can see the coolant still in it to get a better idea of how bad it might be inside.
im pretty sure the SOHC EJ25 are wider than 20s and 22s so they still need the bug to be baja'd to fit in which case id just go ahead and fit the WRX lump sitting at my mates place
there was no way of picking this problem without pulling the engine down
Wes, I know better than to buy straight engines aswell, this was actually a complete driving car i bought and i had a decent drive of it before, it ran perfectly and had nice clean coolant in it and continued to run well in the bug and wasnt getting hot at all. coolant may have been changed but i severly doubt it, he was in no effort to tidy up the car or engine as it was only going to scrap if it didnt sell
even my old boss whos a mechanic of 43 years was impressed with how it ran
this problem only showed up when i ran the coolant low and the headgasket let go otherwise who knows how long it might have gone for
and even then it was still running fine just started getting hot on me around town. came as a surprise
scott the subi bloke said he sees it all time in older EJ motors and what happened is usually the way it goes, they keep running till the headgaskets give out
itll be back up and running under subi steam soon enough
you can imagine my frustration, I just got a taste test good enough to enjoy it and this happens
but Ive got a few leads to chase up and thanks to alkoran its confirmed something bouncing round in my head
i knew all the EJ18 thro to EJ22 have the same stroke so are the same width but i wasnt sure how much wider an EJ25 ended up
if they fit without innergaurd cutting then all the better
however not sure if an EJ22 ECU is upto fueling an EJ25 but maybe its an excuse to follow through with aftermarket management
but in the meantime if i have to put up with lawnmower motivation (damn VWKD rubbing off on me 😂) then it could be worse
As for the aftermarket ems, I know you guys got pretty good made in Australia but if your budget doesnt permit a 1000$ one, you can always check for Megasquirt. The thing that is good for you is that an almost pnp version just got out. Check this thread.
I was told by a Subaru factory tech that the early EJ25 and the EJ22 will run off the same ECU, just take the sensors off the EJ22 and put them on the EJ25 and off you go. 😁
BTW, I've had no dramas with mine, but I could understand how regular servicing would do what you have found in your water galleries.
hey joel in a way we are in the same boat...installing new engines we want to last and one factor is getting the operating temp to factory specs. I see your question on a crappy unmentionable site(wouldn't allow me to register!) regarding flow thru the thermostat. I have done the drilling the 8mm hole but all it does is allow the pump to suck more cool water in. I have a genuine sooby thermostat and it had to sit in boiling water for 5 minutes before it would open 10mm
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cool water from your radiator just isn't going to do it
i'm going to place my thermostat on the outlet end of the water manifold which gets the hottest water...the normal little trickle hole should be enough to let hot water get to the spring which will be facing the engine of course. a simple housing can be made using the EJ22 spigot and a turbo spigot which are opposite hand
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all thats needed is this spacer
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still waiting on this from a mates mate😬
should fit in easy as its pretty much inline
hopefully this will allow the system to work as it was intended and maintain optimum temps👍
It seems nothing stays a secret long around here....
for some bizarre reason i got this strange sense of dejavu......
gotta love them, as you can see in the vid, just turn the key it fired up instantly, no smoke or clackly lifters
the way vw engines seem to breed in the shed it wasnt gonna be long before the subis started multiplying aswell
looking abit more presentable now than in a past life
it took a bit of fiddling to fit
being a later model and a JDM Legacy import everything on top was different, had to swap my manifold, harness, alternator, AC compressor, sensors etc
but cooling system pressure tested, compression tested and a 3 month warranty for $550 im not complaining
and you can make that $450 cos i got $50 each for the compressor and powersteering pump, yet to sell the alternator
allegedly under 100k on the clock, im sceptical but i started pulling it down to swap stuff over and it would appear to be likely
inside of the sump is clean as a whistle with no sludge or grit on the bottom,
i doubt its been off cos it was still firmly attached with that original orange silastic in the same manner the other 2 were
all inside the block is nice and clean
all the breather connections are all clear with no real carboning
and most importantly the insides of the cooling system is like new
i have just run it till the fan cycled and all is good
it threw a knock sensor code at first for some reason but it hasnt done it since
i replaced the aftermarket thermostat it had in it with a genuine subi one
its amazing the difference it makes
only took about 5 mins for the temp gauge to hit 90c and just sat there for next 10 or so mins till the fan cut in
seemed destined to be a 20, they were having trouble finding 22s, but could get 20s no worries and cheaper too, but they found this on and i prefered to stay 22 so it was a done deal
still got a few things to do with it
got a new timing belt to chuck on it
theres also a new water pump for the old motor but when i swapped the thermostat the current water pump is either new or in perfect cond so itll stay