Hi,
I'm in the process of planning an EJ22 conversion for my 72 Superbug. I can see that a number of you have performed this mod (or similar) so I'm hoping for some advice on where to put the radiator.
The idea of moving the firewall forward is appealing because
1) I never use that space for storage
2) I wouldn't have to run cooling pipes up to the front
3) I like the way my beetle looks now and don't want to cut air vents into the front
4) My boot remains a boot.
If I decide to go down this path, is there sufficient airflow above the gearbox for a radiator?
Given I have zero welding experience, am I being a tad ambitious? Seems like there will be a decent amount of welding required with either option...
Thanks,
Richard.
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
front is best unless you are using the car for serious offroad. even then though, front is good. you shouldn't need to weld anything either.
under the car at the back will always be a compromise for airflow, you might get it to work ok, but why bother when you can make it work great at the front of the car.
nearly everyone thats tried a rear mounted rad in a bug has ended up with a failure, except for Wes and his is probably helped by being a lifted baja without the bodywork closing the back in
lots of scoops and vents can make it work at low speeds but nearly everyone who tries it finds that it gets to a speed where the fans just cant keep up and you get overheating
in the front works best and you dont have to sacrafice boot space if your smart with rad placement
just check what Jak fits in his bug
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=82528Well you've basically convinced me with one picture - thanks Ian. Is that your bug and do you have any more pics? Does it get a little warm under the bonnet?
Hi
There is a few posts on here with people giving up on the rear radiators and going to front mounts, save yourself the grief and do it correctly the first time.
The vents in the front can very subtle if you use a air/con front apron.
You don't have to do much welding, a pop rivet gun can get you by in most cases.
Steve
expanded metal isnt even noticable when its colour coded
**when you do a neat job unlike Ian** 😂
Those tyres look very nice joel, what are they, sorry for hi kacking.
The blue bug with the turno rexy motor from round here has the same front as you joel with a flap under neath. Looks good and doesnt stand out either, could also look into what ricola is doing with his, it looks very nice
i'll have to get back to you josh, they're whatever came with the rims. fedral or falkens i think
Steve, my mesh is just glued in with roofing silicon.
didnt fall out at 170km/h so i think it;ll hold 😂
1303Steve wrote:Hi
There is a few posts on here with people giving up on the rear radiators and going to front mounts, save yourself the grief and do it correctly the first time.
The vents in the front can very subtle if you use a air/con front apron.
You don't have to do much welding, a pop rivet gun can get you by in most cases.
Steve
What about the pipes from the engine to the radiator? I was planning to use copper and I know it can be bent but does it bend enough to follow the channels under the floorpan? Otherwise I guess rubber hose might be an option.
pipework is the easy part
i followed the channel under the sills, there no dramatic bends and it tucks up nice and high
i used stainless as it was way cheaper than copper and will outlast the car, but if you do go copper make sure to isolate it from the metal of the car other you can get some nasty electrolsis happening
Hi
The factory air con grilles can be found.
They look great.
Steve
Steve, did your numberplate block airflow infront of the grille like that?
Hi Joel
It did, but it didn't make a lot of difference, I had bags of cooling to spare, I was trying to avoid drilling any holes in the new bumper, it was actually clamped onto the bottom edge of the bumper.
Steve
Marc and Kathy (midlifecrisis) had a rear mount radiator on their baja, and i have never heard of a single grief.
BUT... it is a baja. You would wanna hid it on a stock lookin bug. On a baja everything is all out to see.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Joel wrote:pipework is the easy part
i followed the channel under the sills, there no dramatic bends and it tucks up nice and high
i used stainless as it was way cheaper than copper and will outlast the car, but if you do go copper make sure to isolate it from the metal of the car other you can get some nasty electrolsis happening
Okay thanks for the tip Joel. Stainless would be great but the welding makes me nervous. What type of weld did you use?
I think joel used cocky shit electrodes😂😂😂😂😂just mucken rnd joel!
EVERLAST CONCRETE TANKS
1800 552 123
mactaylor wrote:I think joel used cocky shit electrodes😂😂😂😂😂just mucken rnd joel!
I think he may have used bailing wire :p
richmurphy wrote:Well you've basically convinced me with one picture - thanks Ian. Is that your bug and do you have any more pics? Does it get a little warm under the bonnet?
click on link below
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
ElusiveStranger wrote:mactaylor wrote:I think joel used cocky shit electrodes😂😂😂😂😂just mucken rnd joel!
I think he may have used bailing wire :p
dont forget the JBweld
😉
Richard, it was just stainless rods in the stick
dont have access to a tig anymore
the cheap way to do the piping is exhaust tubing. take the car to the exhaust shop and have them bend it up while you are there in situ.... before you convert the car 😉
you could just about make the whole cooling out of rubber hose...theres some u-beaut stuff around these days will cope with about 1000 psi and 1000 degrees for around $20/metre😏...no electrolysis
:tu
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Hi
You can finish the tubes off a bit shorter than Joel did and just use some rubber bends to get it to where you want it, no welding then.
What Pete said about going to an exhaust shop is good idea, in fact while the car is mobile try to get the whole front part of the car finished off.
Steve
Just a thought, what about incorporating a radiator into a whale-tail?
Might look a bit funny, but it is a rear-mount option that would get some airflow through the radiator! No burping/bleeding issues either!
Gday all. I have started to move baja radiator to front using 32mm poly pipe. Have used it before to give extra water capacity on the baja before mounting 2nd radiator but this makes it hard to work in engine cage. So tome to move it. it will take 90lbs psi and is reasonably flexible
baja bones is using it with success so far
Ernie
pete wood wrote:the cheap way to do the piping is exhaust tubing. take the car to the exhaust shop and have them bend it up while you are there in situ.... before you convert the car 😉
thats exaclty what I did. $3.50 a metre. bargain.
Hasn't leaked in over 162'000klms.
Jak
wouldnt you have to change coolant more often due to the quality of material?
I never have. only changed small amounts when I have taken the engine out
Jak
