Craig Torrens wrote:Congrats Keith.......you should have told me, I would have run mine tonight as well !
I thought you were scared of going in a straight line Craig!! Not too many corners on a drag strip LOL
So do this mean you'll be at warwick to give Keith a run??
Congrats on getting the car running Keith. Been reading this thread from day dot and nice to see the hard work paying off!!
not scared....just bored with it.😂
BUT, knowing my little 1916 wil get me into the 12's in a street car has given me some excitement.😎
I'm sure Keith and I will enjoy blowing away modern cars at WSID on a regular basis.........certainly easier than driving for 10hours to run the 1/8th 🤓
Keith you started out using a new alley case in the first pics and then it seems you ended up using a mag case.....any reason why ?
Craig Torrens wrote:Congrats Keith.......you should have told me, I would have run mine tonight as well !
I thought you were scared of going in a straight line Craig!! Not too many corners on a drag strip LOL
So do this mean you'll be at warwick to give Keith a run??
Congrats on getting the car running Keith. Been reading this thread from day dot and nice to see the hard work paying off!!
not scared....just bored with it.😂
BUT, knowing my little 1916 wil get me into the 12's in a street car has given me some excitement.😎
I'm sure Keith and I will enjoy blowing away modern cars at WSID on a regular basis.........certainly easier than driving for 10hours to run the 1/8th 🤓
Keith you started out using a new alley case in the first pics and then it seems you ended up using a mag case.....any reason why ?
Craig, are you getting 12's out of your 1916. Wow that impresive, what sort of power is it making at the wheels?
Here are a few shots of the thrust on the centre main saddle. I saw a photo of a case done like this in the US so thought i`d give it a go.
I had the saddle machined to accept the thrust bearings then had 2 steel rings machined up and white metalled. Split the rings and drilled and tapped saddle. Then surface ground the backs of the bearings until i had the correct endfloat.
The screws sit about 1mm below the bearing surface.
What do you guys think? Should i cut some small grooves into the face of the bearing for oilling?
Regards, Keith
And thanks CT for the computer lesson!
Here is how I tackled the "quality thrust bearing issue" for use with the flanged cranks.
This case was purchased through scat as having "type 4 mains tunnel",
but it is just your regular bubble top alum case,
that they sent out to Rimco for a line bore to type 4.
First step was to counterbore a recess
to match the Toyota thrust washer at the FW side:
And then one in the inside too.
The thickness if the web must be controlled to have the correct end float result!
The flange's diameter will block most of the oil return hole, so a new one must be drilled.
I added two extras because this set-up also has a small hole drilled to let fresh oil onto the thrust face.
Normally the thrust is oiled by the system after it has passed through the journal diameter.
Key ways are cut front and rear to stop the thrust washer from rotating:
71-BEETLE-SEDAN wrote:kieth, make sure you post here when your gunna take it to the drags
What were the outcomes at WSID and Warwick Keith?
I saw you broke something at Warwick on the video,
but it looks like you fixed it?
CV flange or something?
Best i could manage at Warwick before it broke was 8.09 at 86mph on 1.79 sixty foot. 6500rpm launch. Tried 7k, went bang. Was getting better with each increased launch.
I haven`t been out to WSID since last time, either too wet or i get stuck at work. I hope to be there very soon.
Yes, broke the drive flange. It was a fabricated 091-930 flange. When i took it off i couldn`t believe it lasted that long considering how i made it. Not very well designed.
Anyway, i have since fitted 2 new chinese chromoly ones and bolted them on. We shall see what happens.
Ordered my new progressive contoller from Santa last week. Getting closer now to giving it a go.
Nice flanged crank set up. I have now covered 600miles in mine and end float still measures the same as when assembled, so here`s hopeing.
Hey Keith,
I was looking at your lines going into your manifolds for the NOS, is it just the picture or does your system inject fuel and NOS separetely? I ran pro fogger nozzles years ago, they mixed it inside the nozzles is why I asked.
Your buildup has been impressive and you have a very nice car, something to be very proud of. Mike
just read this from the begining,very cool,glad you kept at it,these projects seem to take forever:-)
I thought you might be interested in my nitrous engine I built a few years ago now as a comparision,it was in my cabrio[over 1100kg with me in it] which I drove everywhere back then so it had to be streetable,heres the engine combo
It was 2332 with mag case,8mm german head studs,scat 8 dowelled crank,VW flywheel 8 dowelled and lightened,no wedgemate,just a berg gland nut,scat 5/16 bol h beam rods,wisecos in mahle cylinders,FK47 on 108 lobe centers with CB comp eliminators heads[46/38 valves with port n polish]scat 1.4 rockers,10.2/1 compression,berg 1 3/4 header,st 1 kennedy clutch with a 4 puck disc.
Type 1 irs trans with 3.88r&p, 3.78,2.06,1.56,1.12 gearstack with a quaife lsd,944 cvs and "russian made shafts"
I had a WON nitrous system with only one pair of solenoids[mine were mounted up higher for access to the jets],WONnitrous controller and DTA efi.
The engine dynoed at 229 flywheel hp and I ran up to 120/130hp of nitrous on top.
Driving it to the track[about 80miles] fitting phoenix slicks and putting some higher octane fuel in,also stinger instead of muffler it went best 10.88@126[mph could be slightly out]then putting the treads/muffler back on and driving it home,just for reference it went 13.27 best with treads and no gas.
When you get that car sorted it is going to be alot of fun and surprise alot of people
just read this from the begining,very cool,glad you kept at it,these projects seem to take forever:-)
I thought you might be interested in my nitrous engine I built a few years ago now as a comparision,it was in my cabrio[over 1100kg with me in it] which I drove everywhere back then so it had to be streetable,heres the engine combo
It was 2332 with mag case,8mm german head studs,scat 8 dowelled crank,VW flywheel 8 dowelled and lightened,no wedgemate,just a berg gland nut,scat 5/16 bol h beam rods,wisecos in mahle cylinders,FK47 on 108 lobe centers with CB comp eliminators heads[46/38 valves with port n polish]scat 1.4 rockers,10.2/1 compression,berg 1 3/4 header,st 1 kennedy clutch with a 4 puck disc.
Type 1 irs trans with 3.88r&p, 3.78,2.06,1.56,1.12 gearstack with a quaife lsd,944 cvs and "russian made shafts"
I had a WON nitrous system with only one pair of solenoids[mine were mounted up higher for access to the jets],WONnitrous controller and DTA efi.
The engine dynoed at 229 flywheel hp and I ran up to 120/130hp of nitrous on top.
Driving it to the track[about 80miles] fitting phoenix slicks and putting some higher octane fuel in,also stinger instead of muffler it went best 10.88@126[mph could be slightly out]then putting the treads/muffler back on and driving it home,just for reference it went 13.27 best with treads and no gas.
When you get that car sorted it is going to be alot of fun and surprise alot of people
Enjoy it
cheers richie,uk
What surprised me Richie was he actually both finished the car and drove it in pretty quick time LOL.
But seriously, Keith builds my little 1916 and does an awesome job.
I wouldn,t want anyone else doing my engine, he,s damn good.
What are you up to anyway Larry? is it latte time yet? LOL
Yes, the fuel and nitrous is injected into the manifold individually. And thanks for the comments on the car, i appreciate it.
Ritchie,
The car took way longer to finish than i had hoped, but got there in the end. My engine combo is very similar to the one you posted, albeit alittle tamer.
If i get anywhere near your times i will be stoked. I will be sorting the nitrous this year so i`ll see where it takes me.
Thanks also for the comments on the car, and to you and Mike for taking the time to read the post.
No, i haven`t any problems - so far, you twisted individual.
As Dave B pointed out it was 5.30 and i was at work. Got to love the waste industry.
And i could have gone some muffins early this morning, only thing open at 5 was a chinese bakery and the 2 curry pies i ate may be upsetting the prostate.
Car still here. I haven`t had it to track since Feb last year, work etc seems to get in the way.
But, I have made a few changes to the engine. Dave B ran some intake and exhaust numbers for me to further `optimize`these ares. Anyway I went to a shorter manifold to lower the overall intake length and swapped out exhaust ( Thanks Rod P ) to something very close to the number.
It`s a tight fit against the shroud but gave me alot more room outside to locate the nitrous/fuel solenoids. I can even get the plugs out without manifold removal. A static test has been run with the nitrous to set pressures etc, just waiting for dyno.
Here is how it stands now. Excuse the layer of dust on engine.
time to drag her back out mate.
did you get a better seat.or some neck straps yet.last time i watched you, it looked like you head was about to come off when you take off.
I used a Berg solid mount kit. From memory it centred the trans and offset the engine so i cut and shut it to centre the engine and offset the trans.
I will take a shot of it for you this weekend. The tinware fit is like stock. I had to mod the shift rod to suit ( although my car was a semi auto so rod was already modified to suit beetle box, so a standard rod may fit ).