I'll just be happy to have mine ready for Warwick.
Might have to look at an altered instead
Stanley wrote:...no wonder I didn't see ya at daves on friday
He was late, he turned up Monday at about 8 am !
😂
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
I'm not totally sure about the length it will be anywhere between 160 and 180, i'll do the front end first and then just lop it off. I started mocking up the roll over bars and Dave you were right if they arn't done right it will look terrible.
Stanley I will to the trial and error....
Pretty happy with the welds too no need for the grinder.....(so far)
Love your chassis jig Frosty!!!!!
But seriously.... Awesome news.... Looking forward to 'hearing' (about) it running... Whats the plan for the driveline?
Go mate! No messing around straight into it...
Driveline will be pretty basic, stock type3 irs box with disc brakes, i will drop my 1776 into is and here's hoping for 13's
4.36pm....get off the frickin' internet Frosty and get into the shed.
My partner and I have owned two dragsters, one still holds the 1/8th mile record last time I checked. A word of advice, never buy a drag car you can't sit in before you buy it. The cost of modifiying a chromemolly chassis gets crazy quickly. The other dragster I owned was in one of the ads Dave posted. I bought it as an unfinished project and thought I could MAKE it fit my 6'1" body , bad mistake. I traded it for another car that I raced and which I am now turning into a street car. Last time I talked to the owner of that dragster he was going to sell the live axle, the trans extension and extended input shaft for the trans. As you guys stated the extension is used to push the engine forward to give clearance between the tires and cylinder heads, added benifit was exactly as you said , to put a little more weight forward. If you have any horsepower I would make it more than 180 inches, ours would pull the front end off the ground ( 2275 n/a) , pretty hard on a chassis with no suspension. Mike
Some more progress today with the box and engine in, need to make some new mounts for the shockies and bump stops.
That's looking great Frosty!!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
x 2
Looking fine there Frosty..... Question #2: Is that ali plate sandwiched between the bellhousing and crankcase?
Hey Humpty it is 5mm steel plate (took a long time to cut out too)
I had some good progress today, shock mounts, all the uprights and the plates that will hold the front end.
This week i will ge all the diagonals done and start the rollover bars (all going well)
Time for a beer
No work on it today but my dad called me to say he found a steering wheel.... ( i thought whats this going to be...???) so i dropped in and picked up an old go kart wheel. Sweet..thats one less thing to find.
OMG thats nuts!! in a good way
type 3 rear but why upside down?
that what i have to do make it fit on my bug pan!
hey also did you work in uralla top pub for a bit??
Hey Risky, nah i didn't work in the Uralla pub...
Ah you spotted that it was upside down, i thought that i had got'n away with it. I just made a mistake after cutting the shock towers off. I have been over it quite a few times and as long as the pivot box/pins are horizontal it works ok.
Thanks
Jason
LMAO ... there was a bug like yours in town and i saw it at the pub a few time ( not that i drink beer 🙅) LMAO
it was from QLD anyways im work on a type 3 rear end atm that why i could tell
cheers mate
RISKY4LIFE wrote:OMG thats nuts!! in a good way
Too right!
RISKY4LIFE wrote:type 3 rear but why upside down?
that what i have to do make it fit on my bug pan!
To correct the rear camber after lowering...???
And no you wouldn't do that with your bug.... If your converting to IRS and/or lowering to the extreme, you'll need to flip the trailing arms from side to side and relocate the lower shock mount to suit.
Good stuff Frosty.... Keep at it!
humpty wrote:RISKY4LIFE wrote:OMG thats nuts!! in a good way
Too right!
RISKY4LIFE wrote:type 3 rear but why upside down?
that what i have to do make it fit on my bug pan!
To correct the rear camber after lowering...???
And no you wouldn't do that with your bug.... If your converting to IRS and/or lowering to the extreme, you'll need to flip the trailing arms from side to side and relocate the lower shock mount to suit.
Good stuff Frosty.... Keep at it!
oh shit a few days back i started welding and it was the point of no going back
frosty i hope you found a better way of making the type 3 end fit then me.. lot of cutting and grinding to get it that shape!
will post in my thread bellow
Slowed up a little from last week but had a little progress, roll over pipes and front axle bent up but were out a bit and needed to adjust. BIG THANKS to AL for the loan of the Oxy. Picture attached is just a mock up. This is far more dificult that first thought, all the angles and widths.....anyways sould have it done over the weekend.
lookin' good Frosty....keep up the good work mate
RISKY4LIFE wrote:LMAO ... there was a bug like yours in town and i saw it at the pub a few time ( not that i drink beer 🙅) LMAO
it was from QLD anyways im work on a type 3 rear end atm that why i could tell
cheers mate
i stay at that pub all the time!!! are you from there???
Bull by the horns there ! Good to see you having a go ! Just think you should look at getting head cage made by a pro , lots of good campanys around , you can even can by the head cage as a bent welded kit .No welded joins on down legs . ( weldwell engineering , andrews race cars , ken lowe , s & l race fabication ,Thunder road ) . Have a look in ANDRA rule book too.
Peter
A little more done.... Now its starting to get frustrating, notching out all the pipes for cross bracing.
Should have the front end finished tomorrow, DB machined up some plate for the stubs to pivot on, now just need to weld them up and then weld them to the front end.
Should be easy to get in and out of hey? 🙅
I love altered/dragsters but think I would need and ambulance to extract me when the spasms in my back wouldn't stop.
Really looking forward to this Frosty ... keep it up.
That 'cross bar' immediately in front of the headbar loops looks to be very close to the driving pos.... Does it need to be that close?.... I mean, once the steering goes in, it looks like it's gonna be a tight fit to get in and out of the car.....
Yep spot on, I can just get into it now so it will move forward about 300mm.
lookin good mate, when are you planning to have this project finished..
BEING ASPIRATED FEELS GREAT BUT BEING BLOWN TAKES THING TO A WHOLE NEW LEVEL....
Hoping to have it done for Warwick, 11 weeks to go...