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Does anyone in Aust sell these?

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Old Hutcho Officially Full-On Dubber

281 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#798127
These are the greatest invention since sliced bread. They actually multiply the torque you can put on a nut times 10! I dont know how many times I have borrowed Dave Becker's cause he is close and cause I can. Saved me many hours of swearing. It would be one of the most useful tools going for a VW idiiot.😎

Old Hutcho

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#798129
CLUB VEE DUB in sydney don't have them?

although not a genuine vw tool..??

never ever seen them before look great...

any generic torque multipliers about?

LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Craig S Wolfsburg Wizard

635 posts · joined May 2008 ·

#798133
So the trip to pick up your bar didn't bear fruit? Bummer. 😢 At least my garage is a bit cleaner now 😀
1969 Beetle - June
1974 L Bug - Gwendolyn
2002 Bora V6 4Motion - Anita

jhp1 Wolfsburg Wizard

575 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#798141
Mate just order it from CIP1

It'll be here in 3 days they're great to deal with 😉

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 ·

#798143
andy down in tassie had them at one stage. cant remember his user name right at the moment.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
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barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 ·

#798145
just went back to have a look to see if i could jog the memory, its volksfolks, hasnt been here in a while though there is a mobile in his profile
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

1303Steve Scirocco Rare

8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#798185
Hi

I've had very few that I couldn't move, is the wheel on the ground? Have you tried any heat? Failing that split the nut with a chisel through one of the split pin slots.

Steve

jacky_moo Seriously Crusin Dubber

115 posts · joined Feb 2010 ·

#798189
+1 1303steve...

Add oxy torch and a rattle gun!
schnell!! schnell!! schnell!! schnell!!

Sides Veteran Volks Folk

2,220 posts · joined May 2007 ·

#798190
+2 for 1303Steve's suggestion.

Also soaking in WD40 or similar... amazing how much torque a small amount of corrosion can take to shift.

Oxy could also help, but I wouldn't try a rattle gun... the threads on the axle strike me as a bit fine for that.

Good luck

😉
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pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#798194
i've tried the rattle gun of death and no cigar. have wd40ed it last night. maybe I'll try the heat gun. I don't have oxy, but I do have a bosch electric one. seems like the last person who did it up didn't muck around.
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

1500S Custom Title Time!

1,418 posts · joined Mar 2005 ·

#798205
pete wood wrote:i've tried the rattle gun of death and no cigar. have wd40ed it last night. maybe I'll try the heat gun. I don't have oxy, but I do have a bosch electric one. seems like the last person who did it up didn't muck around.
Pete, put the socket on the nut and then place a piece of metal say 10mm thick on the top face of the socket. Give it a couple of good raps with a fair sized hammer. Then try the breaker bar again. The axial impacts will loosen most stubborn nuts.

Now for the "be careful" bit. Any axial impacts on a static ball bearing can "brinell" the bearing. For that matter, the flogging spanner can have the same disastrous effects on a bearing.: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling

Still better to use a steady force from a long lever to undo the nut.

DH

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#798207
1500S wrote:Any axial impacts on a static ball bearing can "brinell" the bearing. For that matter, the flogging spanner can have the same disastrous effects on a bearing.: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinelling

Still better to use a steady force from a long lever to undo the nut.

DH
x2
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·

#798216
pete wood wrote:when you say "top face", do you mean the back of the socket or the side?
Sideways, ie, towards the trans I'd expect, as he's explained to hit the socket. It can definately help at the risk of wheel bearing damage.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE

BlueV2 Seriously Crusin Dubber

193 posts · joined Apr 2008 ·

#798229
What size breaker bar and length of pipe did you try Pete ?
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering

pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·

#798254
0.9m breaker bar with a 1 metre extension or there abouts. the pipe was 1 and 1/4 with a 3mm wall thickness. bent like liquorice. I'm not quite 100kg and I was standing on it.
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

Thinker Seriously Crusin Dubber

162 posts · joined Oct 2008 ·

#798256
most engineering supply companies (blackwoods) carry them they are call a torque multiplier. they dont look anything like the one from CIP1.
they are not cheap but if you are willing to spend the money you can get them to do up around 4000 ft/lb if that dosnt undo the axel nut then it was never going to come off

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Thinker Seriously Crusin Dubber

162 posts · joined Oct 2008 ·

#798258
or you could try one of these
1970 bug /1500 stock as a rock.
1976 standard bug ready to be modified 😁😁😁😁😁

1303Steve Scirocco Rare

8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#798259
Hi

So is your breaker bar 3/4 inch?

If you want to borrow my 3/4 bar & pipe let me know.

Steve

1500S Custom Title Time!

1,418 posts · joined Mar 2005 ·

#798265
pete wood wrote:the breaker bar is 1/2 inch. never been an issue in the past. I'm gonna try the hitting the socket thing first.
You need a 3/4" drive one to make it easy and yes, give a hit on the end of the socket where the square drive fits. The bit of plate stops the hammer damaging the socket. The socket will sit on the flange (washer) of the axle nut. A 3/4 bar also prevents the dreaded bending of the bar under load. If you have no luck tonight you can have a loan of mine as well. Depends who is closer to you. I'm going Meadowbank way tomorrow evening (about 3 pm) so could drop it somewhere for you or you can come over for a drive and pick it up after 5.30pm

DH

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bajachris88 The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 6

6,661 posts · joined Apr 2005 ·

#798271
Once u whacked the nut, when u apply the torque, try to 'break' the lock by a little impact by whackin the end of the 6ft breaker bar.

YOUR BEST BET, with safety for bearings in mind, is to jump on th end of the breaker bar with a good pair of shoes, and ur hands on the side of the body ready to take your weight when the nut 'cracks' free such as to not axe yourself.

If it wants to play rough, return the favour!

I assume u are using a HT 6 sided socket? axle nut not too burd up?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
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ratbug aka toddy101

439 posts · joined Jan 2003 ·

#798286
I had 2m of leverage on one of my axle nuts once, and was just lifting up the whole car... I ended up hiring an electric impact gun and socket (it was 3/4 or maybe even 1") from the hire shop, got it off in 2 seconds. Was the easiest $50 i spent in ages.
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Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#798291
I Agree with Steve, if its really really really F'n tight just split it off

heres what happened to both sides of my bug when I got serious with the heat, WD40 and breaker bar extentions

stripped the thread clean off both axles

Woulda saved me alot of extra work if i had of just split the nuts

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ian.mezz I never said, I could write or spell

3,913 posts · joined Sep 2004 ·

#798293
The angle grinder is my friend.
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1500S Custom Title Time!

1,418 posts · joined Mar 2005 ·

#798294
ratbug wrote:I had 2m of leverage on one of my axle nuts once, and was just lifting up the whole car... I ended up hiring an electric impact gun and socket (it was 3/4 or maybe even 1") from the hire shop, got it off in 2 seconds. Was the easiest $50 i spent in ages.
Pulling up on the lever is a big mistake! If you place it so you can stand on the bar it's safer and the wheel is being pushed to the ground rather than lifting it off the ground thus with a couple of chocks it's locked preventing rotation whilst undoing the nut.


In many cases, veedubbers are now suffering from previous owners as well as misinformation by believing you need a 2 metre bar to jump on or a FB hammer to tighten the nuts up. Over tightening is just as bad as not tight enough.

DH

PS. To save wading through old stuff, read this clip to remind us of all that maths we learned at school.

Quote:
Originally posted by Aussie Dubbin
Good info... but have you got a good example of correct/ close torque settings without a torque wrench?


Yes! Simply TORQUE = FORCE x DISTANCE. If you use imperial then the distance is feet, metric the distance is metres but if the mass is given in kg then you'll have to convert it to Newtons as the torque is generally given in Newton/Metres (Mass x 9.8 is near enough).

The example we may as well use here is a torque of 217 ft lbs. If we have a lever say 3 ft long then Torque/Distance = Force

217/3 = 72 lb. ie, measure along the bar 3 ft and apply this load on the bar and you have the correct torque.

To be a bit more metric ( but not totally as I haven't got a book in front of me with the Nm settings), if you weigh in at 100kg (220lb), Torque/Force = Distance then 217/220 = 11.8 inches or near enough to 300mm. Place your big hoof 300mm out from the centre of the axle and stand on the bar and you have the correct torque................ but all you mathematicians knew all that didn't you. 😂 Believe me, you can't argue with with physics and mechanics as long as you take into account the variables, as in the case of threaded fasteners, FRICTION.

Hope this helps!

ratbug aka toddy101

439 posts · joined Jan 2003 ·

#798297
1500S wrote:Pulling up on the lever is a big mistake! If you place it so you can stand on the bar it's safer and the wheel is being pushed to the ground rather than lifting it off the ground thus with a couple of chocks it's locked preventing rotation whilst undoing the nut.


In many cases, veedubbers are now suffering from previous owners as well as misinformation by believing you need a 2 metre bar to jump on or a FB hammer to tighten the nuts up. Over tightening is just as bad as not tight enough.
I was pushing down, pulling up is just asking for a hospital visit. it was lifting the front of the car off the groound. Also i didnt mention the car had no body, just the chassis.
Sharbuilt Beach buggy with Subaru 2L Turbo
Thunderanch Riot with Subaru 2L Turbo
Manxter with FA20turbo
Click here for wiring looms