reubs, I wouldn't get bogged down with dyno results.....the best is to weigh the car, take it to the drags and see what MPH you get........then workout the HP that way 😉
If Dave gets 10hp gain...........well then I know I will be putting EFI on mine for over 150hp !
The main thing I have to go on is that 36 to 38mm vents gave a 7hp gain... and switching to 40mm vents or IDA's was thought would give similar again. So I guess you could term the question as does EFI with 48mm TB's have more potential on this combo than 44 IDF's ???
DB did some work on the manifolds, but not massive amounts I don't think - they were already welded jobs that he commented had been done properly. I'm dry-sumped too... I've read in places that that's good for as much as 6hp, but I don't believe it's that much... and I didn't go dry-sump for peak hp reasons anyway.
But yeah - it's gonna be interesting, and I'll post the info up either way.
👍
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Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Action Day this weekend, so unfortunately only got to spend Saturday working on Jezzi.
Still some reasonable progress was made... quite chuffed with the fuel rails that I fabbed up on the milling machine... seems I've graduated from turning good bits of metal into chips, to now turning it into parts !!!
Mill to the right length: Take a 400mm length of extrusion and cut to the right length... milling machine made for a nice accurate cut.
Flip and mill in the injector bosses... with several rounds of very careful measuring in between. A 10mm through hole, a 14mm hole to a depth of 6mm, then a nice chamfer on the edge to make sure the o-ring doesn't get damaged during install.
... repeat for the second injector, then add in the blind tapped holes for the retaining clips. Voila - an almost complete fuel rail... just needs to be tapped for the end fittings.
Play it again Sam: Two fuel rails needed obviously... seems I got the process right as they both fit up to the injectors perfectly.
Then fit the TB's back on the engine...
... and make sure there's clearance to everything (still a bit more needed on this one just to be safe methinks)
And that's the major work on the engine side of the fuel system... just needs the end fittings put in, the EFI regulator swapped in and fuel lines connected.
Now the ECU and wiring install can begin !!!
😀😀😀
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Still got a bit of tweaking to do on it yet, but already the operation seems much more consistent than all the hex bar setups I've dealt with.
Also a pic from bosslady's post on Action Day... Jezzi's first car show, proudly showing off some of her new bits !!!
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Dave no it's not Marks car as that is stashed in someones shed and anyway it's too slow to compete in as I'd fall asleep at those speeds
Yes I was entered for Speed on Tweed but aggravated a hernia last sunday so had to yank the entry as I'm going in to hospital this morning to go under the knife so I should be at the Tighe Cams round as the HRCC event has been cancelled
Heres the link for the new car with all the photo's Gary's been putting up http://www.rsmotorsport.com.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2877&start=320
Danny
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Heh - been a case of head down ass up trying to get it all done !!!
Made some good progress, tho starting to get pretty tight... have given myself a deadline that if it isn't running by end of this weekend, it's back to carbs so I don't miss out on Warwick.
On the mechanical side of things, the pulley gets some teeth !!! it's alloy, so needed some steel teeth for the sensor to detect going past... step 1 accurately mill in four blind holes
12 teeth now: talking with Danny some over the weekend he convinced me to go with 12 teeth rather than 4... so milled in the extra holes, inserted the steel studs and cold-welded them in
Closeup of teeth: pretty happy with the result, and much easier to get clearance than with the chopper wheel (which is still my fallback position)
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Also now have the fuel system finalized: Existing pump (under the tank) becomes the lift pump up to the swirl pot, then the pressure pump below that with lines then routed through the EFI filter (above the tank) and back down to the engine via the existing lines. Return line then goes back into the swirl pot, with the overflow from the swirl pot and an air bleed from the pressure pump going back into the top of the tank.
Throttle Bodies and Fuel Rails : final fit up, gasket'd and torqued down and all plumbed up. Also have the Intake Air Temp sensor (above LHS throttle body), Oil Temp sensor (on the brass Tee) and the coils (above the fan shroud) all mounted. Oh... and the mounting of the throttle linkage finalized also... with the 3rd bolt in it's nice and solid.
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Also started in on the electricals: the HyFire system comes out...
... the ECU goes in...
... and now just to deal with all the wiring !!!
Obviously the coil, firewall feed through etc. will all come out, but that'll be an "after it's all running" job.
😀
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Thats an amazing amount of plumbing u have there Dave! I read the other day in an old Hot Vw's magazine that CB performance did testing with their dry sump product/system & they got 9hp extra with an engine being dry sumped.
regards
jak
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Jak Rizzo wrote:I read the other day in an old Hot Vw's magazine that CB performance did testing with their dry sump product/system & they got 9hp extra with an engine being dry sumped.
That's an impressive HP gain.......I wonder what % gain that was over the total HP the motor produced. Did the article say ?
I'm pretty sure it was a stock 1600 with twin 40mm IDF webbers.
Thats 9hp at the flywheel though. The engine was on a bench dyno.
Plus it's American hp, so it's probably only 3.5 Australianhp 😀
Jak
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
But yeah... I definitely think they're talking American horsepower...
😉
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I'd be surprised if there is any measurable gain at all.
They only have 30mm scavenge gears, so it would struggle to keep the sump "dry",
and certainly not create any vacuum that can actually unleash power.
That being said...they are a very nice unit and simple to install.
And an excellent way to keep oil pressure to the bearings in all applications.
Im with Dave on that one. Not enough to pull a vacuum.
I cant help but think the power gain in the dyno sheets shown are due to the smaller pressure stages, ala less pumping losses pumping oil at higher rpm.
Regardless of whether the HP figures are "real HP" they still gained a 7% increase over the base run........interesting.........although it could have been the result of the smaller pulley they used 😂
Dave, do you just have the CB Dry Sump pump for the oil, or is there a second pump up at the tank end as well ?
Yeah, cheers CT... I'm looking forward to seeing the difference too !!!
😀
Craig - nope, no pump at the tank end - just the CB 4 gear pump in the standard place. My tank slightly higher than the engine with a 3/4" supply line back to the pump. Works great as far as I'm concerned... if you pull a fitting without having shut off the oil tap, the flow from gravity effect on 5 liters of oil up front is pretty impressive.
👍
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Bit of a mini-update... have finished my sync-reference setup for getting a reliable signal for TDC when combined with the 12 teeth on the crank pulley.
I'm VERY happy with how it's turned out, so figured might as well show it off !!!
Modify a 009 dizzy: for various reasons I didn't want to get the sync reference from the cam or oil pump... so I came up with a scheme to modify an old 009 dizzy to do the job. Starting point - standard 009 dizzy internals.
Machine most of the top part of the shaft away and put on an alloy disc, sort of similar to what the compufire setup uses, but mounted lower in the dizzy body.
And mount in a steel bolt : in this case it's an M8, tapped and then cold welded so it can't come out, then milled for clearance.
Make up a lid for the dizzy body: a nicely machined piece of ally that's a snug fit into the dizzy body (thanks heaps DB !!!), set up to mount a Honeywell GT101 sensor through it, and secured in using the dizzy spring clip mounting screws.
Dizzy body and shaft re-assembled and mounted...
Adjustment is pretty simple - just like setting the timing statically, but sighting through the sensor mounting hole.
Finished and installed, with just wiring into the ECU needed.
Pretty tidy lookin I think... even if I do say so myself !!!
😀😀😀
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Almost there... forum being down for most of Sunday helped me make some good progress.
Wiring all done: Not a huge amount to see... lots of inputs and outputs left spare at the moment (draped over the helmet net), so just a tidy up and wrap needed in the parcel shelf. I'm a computer dude... so when the ignitor instructions say "use an adequate heat sink and thermal paste"... well I went just a bit over board.... 150x75x46 10 fin heat sink and a tube of Arctic Silver should do the trick !!! 😀
Engine fully wired and plumbed: Injection and Ignition relays not fitted yet, but other than that and air cleaners and V-belt she's ready to go. I'll be running 45psi fuel pressure, and have tested the fuel system up to 57psi with no leaks so all good on that one. The fuel pumps are controlled by the ECU, but I also put in a "Prime" override switch on the dash to force the lift pump to run to top up the swirl pot.
Tonight will be doing all the setup and diagnostic checks on the sensors and ECU, then the REAL fun can start...
😀😀😀
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Well, it's VERY close to running now... the Wideband is all wired in, the ECU powers up and passes it's diagnostics.
ECU Setup : sensors all good and returning correct values... temp values match a thermometer, tho the TPS needs to be calibrated.
ECU Diagnostics : both triggers working sensibly... after a brief spin on the starter, the numbers all add up (12 teeth per Home, the 2 misses are because the engine was sitting two teeth ahead of Home to begin with)
Other than that, I have my helper/spotter coming around this evening... so just a case of checking base timing and firing order, then should be ready to start her up.
😀
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