I fitted the oval with a new set of ET drag slicks , and the oval produced quickest ET of the meet with a pass of 6.89secs @ 105mph . Not bad for first time out and now looking forward to putting more boost into the engine .
The engine was blowing a large amount of exhaust smoke due to a turbo oil drain issue that is easy for me to rectify. The smoke looked pretty ugly , but it was still faaassstt...
hellbugged wrote:no intercooling or fan this time Wayne?.........just wondering it's the intention to stay that way for now?
with the new engine combo I am using E85 fuel which does not require me to use an intercooler or fan housing as it has similar cooling qualities to that of methanol , but without all the fuel system corrosion and gel that methanol has .
This is a temporary set-up for the oval as I have not had to destroy any of the original turbo system to complete this stage of my development and the original turbo set-up will be put back into the oval and used as a daily driver after I have made a decent 9 sec pass down the quarter and maybe contest the sport compact series next year .
The new engine / turbo system combo has been manufactured so that the entire unit can be removed from the oval without removal of any pipework or turbo . Only wiring and fuel hoses need to be disconnected . I also have enough parts for the engine to enable reassembly at any time .
Customers cars first for now........
hellbugged wrote:no intercooling or fan this time Wayne?.........just wondering it's the intention to stay that way for now?
with the new engine combo I am using E85 fuel which does not require me to use an intercooler or fan housing as it has similar cooling qualities to that of methanol , but without all the fuel system corrosion and gel that methanol has .
This is a temporary set-up for the oval as I have not had to destroy any of the original turbo system to complete this stage of my development and the original turbo set-up will be put back into the oval and used as a daily driver after I have made a decent 9 sec pass down the quarter and maybe contest the sport compact series next year .
The new engine / turbo system combo has been manufactured so that the entire unit can be removed from the oval without removal of any pipework or turbo . Only wiring and fuel hoses need to be disconnected . I also have enough parts for the engine to enable reassembly at any time .
Customers cars first for now........
E85 will not cool you`re charge temperature and when you get to the end of 3rd gear you will feel that the engine is starting to "loose" power. Do not be suprised if you log temperatures above 150 C after a 1/4 mile, depending of boost of course.
Best rgs
BB
hypo-vwAustralias 1st 10sec street beetle (Jan 2007) 10.49secs@132m
Fantastic car!! It took me a while to read through everything! I love it! Truely Inspiring as I am in the process of building a turbo type 4 aswell. Which cylinders are running now?
hypo-vwAustralias 1st 10sec street beetle (Jan 2007) 10.49secs@132m
I am currently running cast iron cylinders with 105.5mm (4.155") Manley high-top chev pistons , and I have machined the top of the pistons down to my required height .
well preparation for Portland all seemed to go to plan.... I drained the E85 fuel from the oval and changed to methanol race fuel . A few adjustments on the microtec and a short drive up and down the street proved very hard to gain traction .
4 days before we leave for Portland I put the oval on the dyno and find that we couldn't get a clean run because the clutch started to slip at approx 400bhp @ the wheels .
The engine is removed by my father Allan on the Wednesday afternoon and the clutch is replaced . That night I connect a staging limiter which is wired into the microtec ECU and test it . I can hold the staging button on and have preset a retard of 15 degrees in the timing and added fuel so that the oval sits stationary at 5000rpm on full throttle with 3psi boost .
It is not until we get to Portland that I find something seriously wrong with my engine tune . The oval will only run on number 1 & 2 cylinders and is not working on 3 & 4 . I change the spark plugs , the ignition leads , the distributor cap and rotor . No success !! I remove the injectors and they are working , I remove the leads from the distributor cap and they are sparking , I check for cylinder compression and it is ok . Still no success !!
I remove the collar in the distributor for the electronic ignition and it falls apart .... 4 tiny magnets laying in the bottom of the distributor . I retrieve the magnets and that night sit down reassembling and glueing the magnets back into place . At this point in time I think I have found the problem .... but after fitting the collar the next morning , find that it is still the same . I then find that the engine runs on number 2 & 4 cylinders but not 1 & 3 . I borrow a distributor from Henry Spicak (many thanks for your generous offer Henry) but find his distributor is too large in diameter for my engine ancillarys .
At this point in time I give up and help Ben ford in the WPVW supercharged bug for the rest of the weekend .
I have removed my microtec ECU and sent it for testing and repairs .... I would have to assume that I have damaged one of the internal drivers when I connected the staging limiter.... will keep you imformed of results .
I have entered the WPVW turbo oval in both the Day of the drags and the sport compact series . The Compak Attack is April 9 @ WSID , the weekend after Day of the Drags ....
Beetspeed wrote:Maybe the microtec ecu can also control spark or can be expanded to be able to do so?
My microtec ECU is a fuel / ignition management . It not only controls the fuel mixtures under all driving conditions but also the ignition . It is also equiped with map sensor so that ignition retard under boost is also programmed in . The distributor shaft is locked (no advance) , the electronic ignition is purely a magnetic pulse pickup that sends a signal to the ECU which in turn sends a signal to an external ignitor to trigger the ignition coil .
All ignition timing settings are performed ONLY on the dyno and should not be tampered with thereafter . This has been a extremely reliable system since 2002 and has never let me down ...... till I tried to connect the staging limiter last week .
Many hall effect sensors will only trigger from a north or south magnetic pole. So if you glued in two of the magnets the wrong way around, the result would be that you would only get 2 ignition pulses. I used to use a magnetic distributor based trigger as well and had a simular issue when the whole thing came part and the magnets decided to jump to the nearest metal...
My current crank/cam reference/trigger system works with no problems so far and has the advantage that movement in the distrubutor drive gear will not cause even the slightest variation in ignition timing. Though if I were to do the setup again, it is just as easy to put the sync sensor in a rocker cover, and have it trigger from the adjustment screw on a rocker arm. The result being 2 triggers on the crank, and 1 from the rocker every 720 degrees of crank rotation.
Depending on how the microtec is configured you can still drive a single coil through a distributor/MSD if you want. Or run twin coil waste spark, or 4 coil... whatever does it for you.
Also it sounds like your launch control isnt working right, possibly because you were down 2 cylinders though.... The last time I played with an MSD 2 step and an ignition retard lauch control I used a -30 degree correction to the ignition map that would only trigger above 4000 rpm (RPM activated outout from the ecu). It would then add 15% fuel and retard the ignition. The result was it would rev quickly to 4000 RPM, retard ignition from 4000-4500 where the 2 step kicked in, and have 20psi by the time it was there. The advantage of the first rpm activated switch was that the immediate faster engine speed meant the anti-lag reacted faster. Useful if you were trying to stage quickly on a drag strip.
So thats my 2 cents...
hypo-vwAustralias 1st 10sec street beetle (Jan 2007) 10.49secs@132m
2443TT wrote:Many hall effect sensors will only trigger from a north or south magnetic pole. So if you glued in two of the magnets the wrong way around, the result would be that you would only get 2 ignition pulses. I used to use a magnetic distributor based trigger as well and had a simular issue when the whole thing came part and the magnets decided to jump to the nearest metal...
you are right , when I removed the collar and the magnets fell out I retrieved them and reassembled them in the pits with all magnets repelling each other . Fitted the collar and the engine would not fire at all . That night sat down and glued all magnets into the collar in the opposite direction (with all magnets attracting) and the next morning it fired straight away .
To add to this , I have since returned to the WPVW workshop I have fitted a new electronic ignition , new ignitor , checked and clean all connections & earths ....Still ran on 2 cylinders !! I should know by thursday the results of my ECU testing ....
well , after much testing and trying new components I couldn't imagine having an internal engine issue which was causing the engine to misfire and run on 2 cylinders only .
The engine is fresh , appeared to go well at Warwick (6.89@105mph) , was just supposed to service the turbo and go racing again , but not so !!
After removing the rocker covers to check the tappets ( which was done after running at Warwick also ) I find excessive tappet clearance at most rockers , not measured in thou , measured in millimiters .
The camshaft and lifters have had a major dispute with each other sending metal all through the new engine .....
the new billet scat crank has suffered surface damage , all the bearings are stuffed , cam and lifters are the worst I have ever seen , but the top-end is fine....
crank surface damage was not as bad as I had first thought and linished ok , all parts are thoroughly washed in preparation for assembly .
Trying to make it to the nastalgia drags in a couple of weeks....
sheez Wayne, not having much of a run with this one for the last few outings........hope it turns around this time and can't wait to see the time slips!
Wayne
Microtec's are a good and affordable entry level ECU, built down to a cost and easy to tune quickly. But are very short on features you'd like/need, like a decent configurable launch control, detonation sensing, closed loop boost control, fully variable water injection and anti-lag to name just a few useful ones. Without having to add funky electronic boxes to mess with your ECU's head!
All these features are available for around $1200 and dont require an Autronic or Motech sticker on the box to justify doubling the price!
Add traction control to that if you like to get funky. Come to think of it, 400 RWHP + in a Kraut pretty much demands it.
I have much the same power installed into a turbocharghed Nissan Navara flat tray 2wd ute and thats a handfull enough at probably 500+ kilos more in weight.
Secondly, id very closely consider moving towards removing the distributer altogether and using a simple and reliable crank trigger CAS setup.
You could easily attach a simple 60-2 trigger wheel and bracket a hall trigger to enable wasted spark edis. Hall type triggers are simple to attach, cheap and reliable. OH yes, no pesky magnets to come loose and ruin your day.
Going to full sequential injector triggering might be useful for really smooth low rev road manners and street cred at the local chew and spew but for mine, either bank or batch fired injectors will work just fine where you need it.
Hyundai Excell dual output coils, virtually nothing from a wreck and a Bosch 200 dual channel trigger will provide enough spark power to blow your frikken hand off! THIS I can assure you!
My 2 bobs! Cheers and great results so far.
l8r
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
Adaptronic.
Im using a 420c. Now Superceded with the 440/Select
Is what im using. Seriously happy with it. All Australian designed and built.
Should not that these ECU's come with a clean mind. S need to be setup from scratch but the builders are very motivated and helpful.
No, i dont sell them!!!!😂
Def nothing wrong with Microtech's, Just limited is all and Wayne is playing in the deep end!
Cheers
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
I had the same thing happen to the scat cam I was running in a 2332 turbo motor a few years ago. No radical spring pressures either, scat cam, scat lifters. Lasted less than 2000km.
I went for the aircooled.net hardweld cam and hardweld lube-a-lifter setup with the new engine.
Some say modern oils are to blame for this, but im more inclined to think its poor quality metal, along with incorrect machining processes. The result is an incorrect radius on the cam and lifters, so the lifter doesnt spin. So all the load is caried on one spot on the lifter until the two parts begin to eat each other.
mactaylor wrote:did you find out why the cam and lifters had such a bad reaction?
there are no certainties with this type of failure , however I have in my mind a combination of possibilities that may have caused this to happen .
1- I have reused my turbo grind cam that I had machined at Surecam with new camfollowers that I purchased from European Automotive some time ago . Maybe incomatible materials , however I have used these camfollowers in the past with great success .
2- I am running K800 chevy tripple springs with 180lb @ the seat and a whopping 415lb over the nose of the cam with the Pauter 1.4 roller rockers . Maybe too much spring pressure for a flat tappet cam .
3- I am using Mobil 1 engine oil and this oil may be far too low in the zinc content to protect the cam and lifters .
Or possibly a combination of all 3 .... I have rebuilt the engine with 138lb @ the seat , I have run it once at WSID after a dyno session of 405bhp @ the wheels and destroyed the clutch . The engine is coming back out next week , will be disassembled to check internals in preparation for Warwick .
