nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Got the motor in position to make the lower mounts to make sure there is plenty of clearance.
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Another toy for me
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Some more progress.The auto conversion is done-shifter is mounted,modified a Type 3 dip stick tube and will use the Type 3 sump pan as well.I couldn't get the shifter cable inside the pan easily,so have most of it along sjde the tunnel.Fitted a brake line lock on the R.H. side of the front frame-got one more flare to do and the brakes are all done.Bought some new rear stub axles and a dry sump tank from the US.Stubs are beetle splines with Kombi CV flanges.Got it back on wheels so I can start doing the steering column and a seat and seat belt mounts.Made some stands to use at the track-modified a pair of torsion bar covers that will stay on the car.Will make a sack truck like device that will hook onto the rear end somewhere and under the front beam lower torsion bar tube.
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Some more.
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dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
WOW!
Nice work, it is coming along well.
Not long now!
So good to see something done so differently.
Nice work, it is coming along well.
Not long now!
So good to see something done so differently.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Flintstones Custom Title Time!
1,077 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Looking good Gary👍
Cheers
D
Cheers
D
HGFS Wolfsburg Wizard
531 posts · joined Feb 2005 ·
Yeah you are really getting somewhere, body on time must be in sight now!!
1954 Oval long term project going nowhere
1958 Beetle drag car project
1959 Beetle project I need to sell one day
1969 Squareback
1958 Beetle drag car project
1959 Beetle project I need to sell one day
1969 Squareback
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Got myself a few more tools to help with my build.Get sick of relying on other people to get jobs done-everybody is so busy.Bought a pipe bender for 3/8 up to 7/8 thin wall tube(up to 1.2mm W/T) and made a stand last night to sit it on and hold all the dies.It also bends 3/4 and 1 inch square tube.Got myself a small Milling Machine-it's got a geared head and dovetailed stand.Got a set of collets and end cutters,6 inch vice and hold down bolts and clamps.Have to build something to sit it on now.Finally got my dry sump tank from the US-very good quality.
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Flintstones Custom Title Time!
1,077 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
What, no yellow ute? LoL😁
Cheers
D
Cheers
D
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
No-the bastards don't do them anymore in this new model.Will be doing the Drag Car in a bright yellow though.Dino-what"s the latest on your Oval?
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Made three thin walled steel tubes for the dry sump supply/return oil.Neater than running rubber hoses.Have the 2 return to tank pipes on the LH side with 1/2" fittings and the main pump feed on the RH side with 5/8" fittings.They sit against the lower engine/trans tube and are up out of the way.Will only need to use short joining hoses and will use "O" clamps for all the suction fittings.My new JAZ seat turned up from the US and comes with a nice padded cover.Can now mount the steering column/seat belt anchors etc.Will get a lot more gear for it while in the US in October with Rod on his spending spree.Cant' wait to see him in action.
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
For you Rod-thanks for the quick disconnect coupling.Made an adaptor from 8mm ally and got the wheel from Repco for $50.00.Polished the whole thing to match the wheel.Have 2 holes for the trans brake and the line lock switches.Sent the heads to Adelaide to Chris Milton-no worries about machining the valves.Might need a couple of exhaust valves-but he can source titanium stuff easily.
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
A bit more progress-stripped all the running gear from the pan and finished all the welds off.Made a different front trans mount, and cut off some excess steel from the tunnel that's not needed.Bought a lot of parts in the US late last year and since they arrived I have had another mini working bee.Bought some second hand Pro Series heads for the Autocraft engine with titanium valves, and have had them refurbished and the spring tensions set.Here's some of the stuff i picked up.
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
and some more.Got an aluminium spool for the auto and waiting on new drive flanges-091 to Type 2 CV- with new special seals and bolts.
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
I have finished all the welding on the back end now-just need to get rid of all the welding spatter-shit of a job.Bought some anti spatter spray today to try-really good timing(not).Have got the front beam away being painted-will assemble it all when done,bolt it back on, and then start on the body/seat/steering/harness positions.Got to order a pair of Aero guards for the front and get my fibre glass bloke to get the front bonnet done.
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pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome
6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 ·
mmm, bits 😏
"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Been roped in to put this thing back together,so more time lost on my car.It's a Keith Black 570 cu inch Hemi,good for about 2,000 HP.Going to run it first out with blower at 10% over driven.It's getting a new 2 speed Powerglide-so have to do a bit of fabbing for drive plate and starter motor issues.Will be good to see the arse end of it.
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Flintstones Custom Title Time!
1,077 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
Nice👍👍👍
what's the hemi going in?
Cheers
D
what's the hemi going in?
Cheers
D
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Yes Dino it's a nice package.It's going into a Dodge Challenger that used to have a big Miloden Hemi-but it decided that the main bearing shells were better off sitting in the sump as shapnell.Luckey we got to it B4 a rod came out the side.The 2 blocks a quite different across the front-so have to modify stuff to fit.
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
I have been slowly trying to get bits together for finish this project-can't believe how long it takes to get stuff done.I pulled the heads from the engine to fit the Pro Series ones,and found the cylinders were rooted-tram line tracks down each side.Decided to strip it right down and start fresh.With the engine now apart,thought I might now Turbo it,so can make the changes needed.Had the case machined and line bored,crank and rods balanced and the rods resized.Got new ARP rod bolts and a new set of cam followers and some Autocraft Raceware 10mm head studs.I bought a Turbo grind cam from Autocraft and have clearanced it the same as the old one from the engine.I am waiting on a set of main bearings b4 I can put the case together.Pretty much decided on the colours for the car-yellow body,silver cage and pan and blue suspension bits.
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
The new blue
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nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
What torque settings are you using for Autocraft cases-mainly the main thru bolts?
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
I use 50 ft-lbs.
Make sure you check the main bearing oil clearance,
because this is higher than the original torque(35?) and can reduce the clearance.
The higher torque helps keep the two halves from fretting.
Make sure you check the main bearing oil clearance,
because this is higher than the original torque(35?) and can reduce the clearance.
The higher torque helps keep the two halves from fretting.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Thanks Dave-just finished putting it together and it spins over just nice.I haven't been able to find any cylinders,so I have bought a metre of hollow bar and will make my own.Need to work out all the sizes so I can end up with about 8:1 C/R and no need for shims under the cylinders.
type4turbo Learner Dubber
12 posts · joined Nov 2010 ·
Wow, nice job.
like those autos.
Cheers
like those autos.
Cheers
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Dangerous-I have a small lip at the case halves at the rear camshaft opening (easy to feel with a fingernail) I don't remember any locating pins around the outer edge of the case-only the 6 at the main bearing saddles.Thought I would ask B4 I open it up again.Think maybe I should fit the rear plate loosely-then tighten those bolts and the case bolts at the same time.Dave,is there a system to tighten the bolts??
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dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
The old cases I have DO have a recess machined for a small locating sleeve,
on one of the bolts in your picture and also diagonally opposite at the top.
But in my case they have long since gone missing or were removed on purpose.
The six main case through studs should do the majority of the alignment,
but those small sleeves may help your proble.
Often these things have had a hard life in speedway and so, are quite distorted.
Adding those extra small dowels may make things worse!
on one of the bolts in your picture and also diagonally opposite at the top.
But in my case they have long since gone missing or were removed on purpose.
The six main case through studs should do the majority of the alignment,
but those small sleeves may help your proble.
Often these things have had a hard life in speedway and so, are quite distorted.
Adding those extra small dowels may make things worse!
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
thanks Dave-will open it up for a look.Guess putting the rear plate on and doing all the bolts up together should help.
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
Opened it up and found no other locating sleeves and no spot where any were ever used.I put it back together and used the rear plate to pull it into shape-worked really well-all machined faces are now level.I tried to fit the drive plate today and found it will not work on an Autocraft case-the recessed center shape hits hard on the rear engine plate.I have machined off the rivet heads and drilled them out so I can make a new flat flex plate.Does any body on here have any clues what grade steel I need to find to machine up a new one?Should be fairly simple to do-don't have any issues with starter ring gears etc.I have measured everything and looks like I will only need to make 3 off 7mm spacers to go between the flex plate and the convertor.
dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
4130 sheet for flex plates.
These guys give great service and are Volksy friendly,
being that they advertise in VWMA.
http://www.performancemetalsaustralia.com.au/
These guys give great service and are Volksy friendly,
being that they advertise in VWMA.
http://www.performancemetalsaustralia.com.au/
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
nbturbo Veteran Volks Folk
2,171 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·
The VW "Tree of Knowledge" has come good again-thanks Dave.Will ring them for help.