I see your still using the 003 box, they have very good ratios. I've worked out how to add a cooler and trans brake to these aswell.
Are you going to build it your self? I am now making higher stall speed converters too.
I can help if you decide to have a go, there not to hard or timely to build.
Good to see you back on the project.
AARON'S SPEED SHIFT AUTOS
Specialising in Vw automatic transmissions, differentials and torque converters
Stock or modified to suit your application (street, drag, off road)
Ph 0402 233 027
Good day Aaron-I couldn't help but get back into it-I saw your auto Type 3 perform at Warwick.No,the 003 has gone and replaced by an 010.I tried to fit the spool to early Bus diff,just wouldn't fit.Contacted Dave Folts,and after a lot of confusion,worked out he only makes the spool to fit the last of the rear engined Bays.The diff housing is slightly bigger and so are the side carrier bearings.Managed to find one fairly quickly and had to modify the front trans mount-they are 10mm shorter than the early ones.I have sent the auto to Adelaide for the overhaul-it's been there for 2 months,and I phoned yesterday to see how it's going to be told it's still sitting where I left it.Been thinking about getting it picked up and doing it myself.Have you sorted your Bus after the troubles at Warwick?
Thanks for the info Dave-bought some 3.7mm 4130 sheet and another 6 mts of 11/2" C/M tube.Finished fitting the spool to the diff and a full set of new bearings.Got a good tooth pattern and 0.008" backlash and painted it ready to go in.The cylinders are almost done-just having some plates made to tension them up before final honing.
what, it's not yelllow!!??😂
It's looking good Gary
Cheers
D
Good to see your back into it Gary.... I'm really interested in seeing how you go with the auto....
Hey Gary, you don't seem to be paying much attention to handling - you know, going around corners. I assume you will be coming up to Wakefield Park for the Nationals Supersprint, and I'm a bit concerned about the car's ability to handle the 'bendy bits'. You should be able to keep up in a straight line OK, but please do some work on the 'side grip'. Happy New Year. 👍
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Now Greg-you can clearly see that I can't rebuild a car as quick as you,and it's quite obvious the car is only partly done-but I have some surprises coming.I have wrecked an early Beetle,so I have a good front sway bar to fit and some really good drum brakes and I have found a Bloke who can groove my rear tyres-so I am up for it.How about some dates and I'll mark them on the whiteboard.Happy New Year to you and family as well.
humpty wrote:Good to see your back into it Gary.... I'm really interested in seeing how you go with the auto....
---Thanks Humpty--The auto is going to test me as well.Fitting the Type3 auto into my Oval was a lot of work-but worth every minute of drama each time I drive it-so I'm betting this one will turn out the same.Got some local experience to call on this time though-Aaron (20BKombi) has been playing with Bus Auto's,so will pick his brain a bit.
The cylinders are finished-ended up with 0.005" clearance.What would be a good ring end gap-was thinking about 0.015" should be good?Got a set of childs&albert rings from Autocraft with the "L" shaped top ring.
That stuff look good enough to eat, Gary.😁 Tell me, can you still say it's air cooled? I recon it will almost be liquid cooled.❓
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Alcohol cooled, like many of the members around here......
5.5 thou per inch on the top ring,
and about 5.7 per inch on the second ring.
If running boost or nitrous,
you may have to run up to 7 thou per inch especially on the top ring.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
SuperOwen wrote:Alcohol cooled, like many of the members around here......
--No not me-I need the stuff for inspiration.Thanks Dave.
Got it closed up at last.Got 0.020 to 0.023 on top and second ring.Really pleased with how the cylinders turned out.Looking for a set of rockers for the 910 heads and some pushrods.Can now start on an intake and exhaust system for it.Will run a single centre throttle body,probably around 80mm.
That's just madness Gary..... Very jealous of your workshop..... And your skills!!!! 👍
thanks Humpty-really like my shed and it's taken 10 years to get it set up just how I want it.Was pretty lucky when we found the place with a 30 by 10 metre shed on it.We closed the shop 3 years ago,and thats 17 by 10 metres,and if can get the better half to sell off all the stock,I will have another unreal shed.I will be able to store half a dozen cars at least in there.
I bought some new 1.47:1 rockers from Autocraft and trying to set up the geometry-but the pushrods are rubbing hard on the openings in the head and there is definately no room left for the tubes to fit.These are the longest rockers they now sell-the rest are up around 1.7:1.What's the normal fix for this????
If you are happy with the geometry at the pad and valve tip,
you will have to move the tube hole.
As long as it is not rubbing hard,
all it has to do is "just" clear.
You can either weld it up and move it,
or simply offset and enlarge the hole and seal seat,
then make larger tubes.
I did this just last week on my own. (but the other way).
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
The other points worth noting is that Autocraft had a "left" and "right" head
for some versions of their engines,
and also with their rockers.(different offsets in pad to adjuster relationships)
Also the rockers were available with different offset shafts,
but this will only work if your pad geometry is to correct to begin with.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Sort of figured that was going to be the fix-I don't know how they could possibly get 1.7's and 1.9's to work at all.Had this thought tonight to mill out the holes about 2mm,then make up a plate the same as the one bolted to the case,and bolt it to the back of the rocker box in the ideal position.Make it out of 6mm ally and just use a gasket to seal it.I reckon to make them in 2 halves with 6 4mm bolts in each one.Will make one to see what it looks like.Thanks again for your info Dave.
Still bashing away with it.Got a heap of 1.75" aluminium bends and pipe to start my intake manifold.Have milled the flanges and cut the pipes ready to weld it all up.I have cut a relief into the head side of the flanges,where I will do the welding,then machine the welds back so no welds will be visible from the outside.Finished the Alternator bracket and had it rebuilt.While it was apart,I painted it with brake caliper paint and baked it in an oven to cure it.Have milled 8 holes into a piece of 6mm ally to sort out my pushrod tube drama.Still have to cut them out and work out where to locate them-have to drill and thread each one and seal them up.
👍
Reub
Have ordered a heap of ally fittings from the US to do the oil and breather systems. Got some -6AN swivels to 1/4 BSP to make the fuel rails.These will screw into some extruded ally,then just screw onto the ally injector holders-a lot easier than the rails I made for my Oval.The body is making good progress-he has welded the new front section on,repaired both A pillar bottoms and is a fair way into welding a lip right around the body where I will attach the rear window panel / firewall.The car looks lonely-haven't laid a hand on it for a few months now.
nbturbo wrote:.The car looks lonely-haven't laid a hand on it for a few months now.
Don't feel too bad Gary, I haven't worked on mine in almost 3 years!!
🙁
Yours is progressing well though and is looking very promising.
What hp numbers are you chasing for this engine combo?
Cheers
D
Good day Dino-original goal was to drop into the 6 second bracket for the 1/8th-see what happens when I do that.
nbturbo wrote:Good day Dino-original goal was to drop into the 6 second bracket for the 1/8th-see what happens when I do that.
If I'm still around then, I'll shout you a beer!
😂
Cheers, Greg
P.S. Nice work you're doing there, Gary.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
You had better stay around-I wouldn't mind another trip away with you-still get the occasional laugh from the last one.Going to try and get to the Lake and catch up with you.
Does any body have a pic of the tool they use to tension the centre 4 studs on Pro Series heads-the ones you can't get a socket directly on to? What torque numbers do you then use with the Tool?
It is basically a socket welded to a ring spanner,
or crowsfoot spanner.
The socket(square drive receptical),
is welded far enough along,
to clear what is required.
I use the same tension,
but the tension wrench must be at 90 degrees to the spanner.
technically the tension should be reduced by a factor
calculated with the effective hypotenuse divided into the adjacent side that forms the triangle.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Thanks Dave-that's some serious Trigonometry terms.I did what you suggested there-welded a socket exactly 6'' from the end of the ringy-so do I now halve the foot pound number required for the tension????
