I started this post for some advice and opinions and so far it confirms what I was thinking, keep going and finish what I have started.
The replies are much appreciated although some a bit off topic in regards to my purchase which was not my intent.
Would you agree that rust repairs aside, staying with the flares and scoops is the way to go as trying to remove them would result in replacing just about every panel anyway.
Obviously not one for the purists out there but it would be unique wouldn't it? I haven't seen another like it.
yes ash, stay with the flares and scoops otherwise you will have a huge job on your hands in my opinion and you would have been better off buying an original then, some hate the flares,some love them, at the end of the day its what you want not others,if you keep it small and put new sills in then with a bit of labour you can have it back on the road a lot sooner,just my opinion.
agree with ya Steve, not many custom ghias out there and done right they look great as they have excellent lines to start with. Ash, you said you bought the Ghia for its modified looks so stay with what your gut tells you, nice flares, scoop that leads somewhere, (not just a hole in the side) and some sick wheels and you'll stand out from the crowd.... go for it I say.
Stick with what you want mate.
If ya bought it for the flares,great. Its not my cup of tea,but thats just my opinion.
My custom Ghia thats for sale now appeals to those who are'nt that hung up on OG Ghia's.It looks standard,but is missing some minor chrome trim bits etc
Thats cool,each to their own
What I will say,is that you have a big job ahead,and bodywork can cost a mint to get right.
I doubt it will be a cheap and easy fix too
mate... rough to see this. there are many vw enthusiasts on the central coast and i am sure you will find support, info and assistance. good luck with it. there are many of us that have had this kind of experience at some stage too.
always amazed that there are so many experienced dubbers in this world, with many cars, or past cars and knowledge and first hand dealings, but still some claim they can not see the underlying condition of some cars.
Poor ash - you got ripped there mate - buy another karman ghia and use it as a sacrifical car - you best learn how to weld - it isnt that hard you could learn it in 2 - 3 hours - tack welding and grinding and patience will see a lengthy result here.
VW Steve - - best laid plans of BOG and paper WTF ?????? edited by barls to remove inappropriate language
tin tin, the bodywork was not done by me, i bought the car as it was years ago and drove it for a few years as is, the previous owner organised the bodywork so if someone wants to bag them then go for it but most panel shops will only do what someone instructs them to do, from memory the name of the panel shop was in amongst all the reciepts supplied with the car so please keep the smart remarks to yourself if you dont know the story, i pointed out there was fibreglass in the spare wheel well so i was honest with the condition of the car before sale, i did not put a grinder into it so who was to know what someone did to the sills beforehand.This is just typical for a kg, nearly all of the kgs on the road would have bog in them, it all depends on what someone has done to it previously, these cars are not new anymore and are prone to rust.Good luck finding a kg in mint condition for a low price.
its people who dont know anything about these cars like l469 which make this situation worse than it is, its a typical sill replacement on a kg job, plain and fairly simple if someone knows how to weld, otherwise pay a restorer to weld them in and ash may be able to finnish it off himself after that, i personally have restored a few of these and a lot wosre than this, i once restored 1 which was in 3 separate pieces after i put a grinder on to it.
I hope none of you are planning on buying a 356 porsche 1 day as that is a whole new kettle of fish again!
If restoring a karmann ghia is too much for people then stick to a new commodore or falcon.
Hey vw steve - obviously you are coping some heat here - there is plenty of cliches apply here - buyer beware - hind sight. (it is fun for every one else but) Chin up bro it will soon pass.
Thanks burls for ur editing except I am not sure what u edited mate as it was the exact post - Hey but whatever gets you thru, right?
Ash - there is always someone or some situation worse than yours - watch the you tube clip and follow this guy he is funny as - especially the clown scenes and it should help you out enormously - armed with know how everything is easy.
iWelding is simple as - get one of these t will do everything and will set u back about 1k. it is 15amp but grind the earth pin to fit into a normal 10amp electrical female plug and the low amp setting say 80 - 100 amps you will need will never blow a fuse wire at this low setting.
Good luck mate - Steve is right - sill repairs are very simple and fun as is all of the body work
Hey Ash - I would stick with the flares and scoops. That's what attracted you to the car in the first place I'll bet.
If the body is too big a hill to climb right now just put it to one side. There's still plenty to do. Pan, suspension, brakes, gearbox etc.
A decent MIG welder isn't that dear these days. Using it isn't all that hard.
Iv'e always let a project take on a life of it's own. Let the car tell you what it wants.
If you get stuck, do what you want to do rather than what you think you should do. It's all about having fun after all.
going back to the chemical dipping, Minus Paint in SA is apparently the best place in Australia and i read on a review of them which was written 10 years ago the price is about 750 - 1000 for most cars. Don't know how
much it would cost how.
My real concern is who offers E-coating (aka EDP or Electrophoretic Deposition painting)
its basically how they treat and primer cars these days which coats them inside out in every nook and cranny with rust and chemical resistant paint
Making them virtually rust proof.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
Can anyone say what a good body is worth, I mean completely rust free as I have an almost complete 61 car that I may sell. Has only one issue that is prev owner put type3 gearbox incl longer axles and shafts, therefore the tyres scrub. volma1
They are still there, just have faith you'll find one.
Forgot to say the body was restored and painted approx 15 years ago and is still as good apart from some shed scratches(no dents) as I bought it 13 years back. volma1
Will try to get some pics in the next few weeks but have some rear shots in the shed that are oversize that I can email to any interested persons.
They are still there, just have faith you'll find one.
Wasn't sure whether to start a new post or continue on, but I will continue on.
Firstly a progress update, body is off the pan and the new floor pans will be welded in soon and that part is going along well.
Now for the body. The body has been 90% blasted, it aint pretty and based on estimates from a shop to do the work and my lack of welding ability and lack of time to learn to weld I am on the hunt for another body.
If anyone has anything available I am more than interested to check it out.
You can do it ash!
I bought a $550 gasless mig 4 years ago and taught myself to weld. I had to replace my whole a pillar and couldn't afford a new body or someone else to repair it. If u do a mistake you can always grind it out again. It worked for me, and the cars solid as a rock.
Just have to make sure you weld braces to sections before you cut out rotten panels to make sure things align properly and take note of positioning etc. etc.
If I can come out of this without too much of a loss I will get something with the body repairs already done,even if i have to paint it the colour I want.
Not turned off though I now know exactly what I,m looking at.
I see one for sale in toowoomba (yet another yellow one) does anyone know this car?
