great news Steve, well done on a huge effort! There must be a back log of flat batteries and locked keys out there that will now get some service.......
Thanks for the kind words, still lots to do. I might hold off getting rego for a few weeks, my wife's car rego is due today and I don't want two regos due in the one month.
I decided at the beginning of this build to fit early Golf switch gear and to mimic the wiring layout of the same model Golf with 16 fuses but the blade type.
The ignition switch / wiper & blinker switch housing fitted with a bit of fettling, the wipers feature electric pump activation and variable intermittent wiping and the blinker feature Euro parkers i.e. when you leave the blinker on with the motor off the parkers come on, on that side of the car, not sure if this is a good idea or not.
The Golf switch gear feels much more modern as well. I also kept the old lock barrel and door handles from my old yellow bug when I sold the car as I had just fitted Audi lock mechanism to them, these feature reversible keys, as in you cant put the key in back to front, good when your getting old.
The mudguards I'm using are Aeros, they take 911 headlights, I bought these headlights from Design 911 in the UK when the $ was OK against the pound.
Fuel system is a Carter lift pump with a Injection Perfection surge tank and a 044 main pump, the main pump is controlled by the factory Subaru boost sensitive pump speed controller, this area needs finishing off in the boot.
don't forget although you have to pay 12 months when first registering........you can switch to 6 months in 2012 to shift it away from the other car......then just flip back to 12 months rego again..
one less excuse buddy.......can't wait for more pics!
been nice to watch what is obviously the culmination of years of thoughts and ideas of an experienced builder.
great that its not over the top for a change without the "big $ name overload rubbish", but still clean and no doubt will prove very functional and reliable......it's a credit to you
Just looking at the pics of the exhaust...really neat. When i was doing all the research on porting and headers etc, alot of people removed the heat shield from the crosspipe. The heat shield is actually to keep heat in and give some consistency between the cast headers on either side which are actually good for power. The more retained heat prior to the turbo the better for power. Ceramic coating or wrapping are a good option when the heat shield is removed for more space at the back.
You may have had it covered, just thought i would mention it....lots of little mods all add up to response and power.
Thanks for the positive comments, I still have all the heat shielding to put back on, I didnt think it would make that much difference. Is the the heat shielding on the end casting as critical?
I'm doing all the boring bits now, nothing much to take pictures of.
Not as critical for other heat shields....i put them on as the oil filter side seems quite close to water and oil.
The cross pipe shield also stops it heating up and cooling down too quickly... the odd little jobs are time consuming although sort of fun as the end is so close. EXCITING!
That's one tough girl using pliers instead of wax.
I've moved my fuse box into the boot area behind the glove box. I'm tied of kicking the fuses with my foot in David's bug and I despise the ceramic fuses that VW used. I bought these fuse boxes with 8 fuses each.
I'm mounting the relays next to the steering column on the drivers side, when the dash is in place the relays will just poke out the bottom. I cut the fuse area of the stock fuse box just leaving the relay section.
Time to fess up, I made major blunder with the relay plate, I put some captive nuts in the body to hold it, when drilling the hole for the captive nuts I drilled into the fuel tank, bugger poo bum wee hole.