dragvw2180 wrote:Humpty I would like to see the vw people come together and help each other bring our hobby to a new and higher level, If we can make ALL our cars be more competative and less costly to operate then now, then maybe we will have more money to get even better.
Absolutely couldn't agree more......share the joy, Thanks Mike
dragvw2180 wrote:It is a pan front, ladder back half that we fabbed up in my garage . The engine will have over 500 hp and will be driven on the street. Chassis has been certified for 8.50 by IHRA already . Mike
OMG Mike, sounds awsome, I have been into VW's since the 70's and with the wonderfull resources available these days both in parts and information, it seems our sport/hobby/interest/community/business (substitute which ever combination suits your present situation) can't help but grow.
Thanks for your interest downunder.
I ran a Berg Washington anti shocker for a few years in my old drag bug. I found it could have been very effective, but had issues with the unit's consistancy in operation and adjustment, and as you said, it's there for every shift......
This set up is perfect and I love the electric control giving automatic operation. Well done.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Thanks for the replys, I have been having a hard time getting to the track to try the car out, it is winter here and it snowed out yesterday. As soon as I get to the track I will give some feedback and where the settings worked best for me. Mike
An update;
Well the weather has not cooperated at all and it is supposed to snow this weekend again. It is winter here and has been an exceptionally cold winter so far. I have decided to change my double Tilton discs to the Kennedy setup. The tilton discs are coated metal with no fiber material, I am worried that when I start to slip the discs that my wedgemated flywheel will take too much of a beating. I feel pretty sure Santa is going to send me some parts very soon. I hope everone has a MERRY CHRISTMAS, Mike
Another update, well we finally got some weather that allowed us to run the car. The first pass the clutch slipped too much, second pass we adjusted and added more clutch but still slipped really bad . The third pass we added more clutch, ripped the r/pinion out again. I am disgusted but know that I will find the combo of parts. I am going to change the pressure of my p/plate lower and change the material of the discs, I believe I will be running the Kennedy double disc system rather than my Tilton setup. I also want to find a better valve that is more responsive to adjustment. I have three weeks before our first race in Ga to get this all sorted and I hope the weather will co operate with me . Mike
Man that sucks.... I feel your pain though.... I know a guy who's into pumps and pneumatics... I wonder if he'd have a line on valve options?..... Might lay this problem on him....
Hi Mike, looks like i went down the same road, I burnt my clutch on the first pass. The clutch was 3 1/2 years old though.
Im looking at a Tilton triple plate 7 1/4'' at the moment with sintered metallic frictions and pressure plate to help change from 1st to 2nd quicker (smaller diameter less work for the sincro)
The old one was 8'' twin with 4 pucks on each but riveted to the plate not bonded (3060lb pplate)
The valve worked fine so will keep it at the same setting with a new clutch.
What was the material on your old tilton Mike and how many runs did you get out of it, please.
This is my old clutch http://aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=78992&page=5
Aaron
AARON'S SPEED SHIFT AUTOS
Specialising in Vw automatic transmissions, differentials and torque converters
Stock or modified to suit your application (street, drag, off road)
Ph 0402 233 027
Hey Aaron,
The discs I have now are metalic, they are very thin and the friction material appears to be just a coating. They do NOT like to slip. I am not sure these are the best choice for my application, in fact I am ordering a Kennedy double disc setup this afternoon. If you would like I will send pics of what I have been using.I will glass bead the discs and they will still look like new after 60 passes. Mike
dragvw2180 wrote:Hey Aaron,
The discs I have now are metalic, they are very thin and the friction material appears to be just a coating. They do NOT like to slip. I am not sure these are the best choice for my application, in fact I am ordering a Kennedy double disc setup this afternoon. If you would like I will send pics of what I have been using.I will glass bead the discs and they will still look like new after 60 passes. Mike
That would be grate if you have a picture for us to learn from. Sounds like the frictions are a very hard compound and grab hard.
Is the Kennedy your ordering like my set up with riveted puttons?
Thanks for the info as this could be a $1200 clutch that could be worse than what I already have.
AARON'S SPEED SHIFT AUTOS
Specialising in Vw automatic transmissions, differentials and torque converters
Stock or modified to suit your application (street, drag, off road)
Ph 0402 233 027
The setup I have uses a cloverleaf floater plate and no dowel pins. The discs you were using are very simular to what I will be running from Kennedy. I spent some time today on the phone and gathered a little more information than I had before. Basically I am changing everything clutch wise and control wise also. I will be using a prototype clutch management system from " MEGA MACHINE",
as a replacement for what I had. It will be something that is designed for brake fluid rather than hydralic fluid. The control system is something that is soooo sweet and simple that I feel like kicking myself in the butt for not thinking of it. As soon as they have it available to the public I will post pics and prices on here.
On the transmission I have the parts coming for the repairs and Sam Shackleford from RANCHO advised me on my clutch setup along with the info I gathered from Kennedy and Dave Kawell. I have decided to drop my pressure plate down to 1700 with the double discs, like running a 3400 lb pressure plate instead of what I had before. I will be usiing two 4 puck discs instead of the 360 degree discs I have now, the combination of the two will reduce my griping power alot but should be plenty. I took some pictures of the clutch setup I have now and will post them tomorrow . The only thing I hope is that the new system works and I can pass on the combination to everyone else so that this will be a thing of the past for all of us. Mike
Hey guys,
Well I have been very busy getting ready for the race this Sunday in GA . Since I last posted I have replaced the clutch system to Kennedy double disc system using two sintered discs and a modified pressure plate. The whole package fit into my flywheel with no modifications to my flywheel. I have dropped from a 2300 plate to a 1700 with the double discs. I rebuilt the trans and replaced everything that even looked slightly damaged, so she is fresh. I removed the Clutch Management system I had and replaced it with a prototype setup . If this works out you will be the first to see it. It does away with the switches I had and is VERY simple and VERY adjustable. I am entering three races this weekend if nothing gets torn up. There is an import race on Saturday, a Pro Mod and a bracket race Sunday. I am also putting the car on the dyno at the Dyno day Saturday morning. Whew what a busy weekend we are going to have,hahhahahah Mike
Well we made the trip to Georgia on Friday afternoon, got near Atlanta and had to pull over and get some sleep, my long days had taken a toll on me , had been awake 21 hours. We got up the next morning , ate some grits and headed over to the dyno session. The ficility was really nice and the owners were very cool. They took the time to show us their antique cars. I warmed up the engine and drove down the street from where we parked to the speed shop to warm it up then let it cool back down a bit, damn thing sounded good. When it came to my turn we put it on the dyno, I rolled on the throttle in each of the gears, increasing the rpms with each gear. I shifted into forth at about 4k and rolled onto the throttle and put it to the floor. It sounded like a freight train and the engine was on kill. At 6000 rpms I felt something , then heard an unusual noise and I immediately shut it down. I walked to the back of the car and looked everything over but could not see anything wrong so I started it up. I had an exhaust leak on number one cylinder so I shut it down and pulled the J pipe off and changed the gaskets, fired it back up and the exhaust leak was still there. I had my friend John fire it up again while I laid under the engine and felt a leak below the head near the exhasut port. My weekend was done at that point because I didn't have a spare set with us. We decided we wanted to know what was wrong with the engine so we loaded up the car and drove home to North Carolina . We pulled the rig into my yard and hooked up power, tore the engine down. We found that I had broken a head down the center lengthwise. Evidently it was a bad casting and it is being replaced. On a brighter note I produced 350 rwhp @6000 rpm's. Next race is in a month and I have my backup heads ( Super Flow 48x40 valves) I will be putting back on the engine. I will be doing testing next weekend, am taking this week off with the wife and getting away from cars,hahahah Mike
Humpty, hahahahhaha Our SEVWA preacher came by my trailer as I loaded up the car and I asked him if he does EXORCISMS, hahahahahaah I will NOT give up on this car because I have invested so much work on it and it has the potenetial to become the best car I have ever had. It may be just a string of bad luck , but I am getting an education on what works and doesn't . Mike
I want to say I am sorry for not following up on this post for awhile but family health issues took me away from my race car . I went to the track last night with the new valve and my new control setup, worked flawlessly. I had a 60 ft of 1.42 and did not tear out the ring and pinion, boy what a good feeling. I made 7 passes and worked out some problems with the car, most caused by sitting for months . If anyone is interested I will take pictures of the new setup. The guys at MEGA Machine gave me a prototype valve which is larger and more adjustable than the other valve and I removed the paddle system and replaced it with an electronic timer control instead. I believe this will be far superior to my previous setup. Right now I have my timer set for 1/2 a second of slippage. This does not mean it slips for 1/2 sec but that the valve is turned on for that time. I am taking my wife to the coast today after she gets out of Heart rehab and spend some time at the ocean, plan to spoil her. Mike McCarthy
LIFE IN THE LOW LANEAll people have the right to stupidity but some abuse the pr
I was very lucky to meet David from MEGA machine at a charity event last fall that we both were part of. We talked and checked out each others cars and got into a discussion about the problems I was having and my CM system. David told me about their prototype and asked if I wanted to try it , so here we are. The setup is very close to what I had but the quality of the parts are better and alot more adjustable than before.
The hydralic part comes as a complete unit ready to use, all you have to do is plumb it between your master cylinder and the slave ,
I installed mine into the same location as the old one . Now comes the cool part, I no longer am using the paddle system I had before, it's all electronically controlled. I had a hard time trying to stage the car with the previous setup, car wanted to jump into the lights and slipping the clutch was impossible to stage it. I tried installing a cutoff switch but it was still rushed inside the car when I ran a PRO TREE ( .400)instead of a full one( .500 with all the bulbs ). David and I talked about it and I ended up buying another delay box and wiring it into my other delay box. Now when I stage the car I simply push a single button on my steering wheel, this locks my clutch, locks brakes, engages my 2 step and my clutch management system. Basically I have two separate timers that I start by releasing a button on my steering wheel. After the first timer relay disengages everything else the timer on the CM stays engaged for as long as I have set it for. This proably sounds very complicated but it is so stupidly simple that I want everyone to have it on their cars. If you do not want as complicated a system as I have it can be as simple as an adjustable timer relay tied into just your CM valve. A switch, timer relay and the valve. Right now I have mine set for .5 second and it worked flawlessly. I was so happy you couldn't slap the grin off my face after the first hard pass. If anyone is interested or has any questions I will answer as best I can on all of this. I will draw up a schematic or take pics of anything anyone would like to see, Mike McCarthy
Thanks Matt,
My wife of 35 years had a heart attack a few months ago but is doing well. We have been back twice for pain but now we are going to heart rehab together, she's a tough old bird. I have been very blessed to have her.
My biggest wish would be that this new CM might save everyone some money by not tearing up their gearboxes so easilly. Here is the post on THE SAMBA for their ad for the valve,
