pete wood wrote:any figures or dyno charts for the GTR yet? how does the stroker crank change the dynamics of the engine? I assume you aren't aiming for 9k launchs?
No figures yet as the engine is still being run in, and tested. Regular plug checks and an oil sample is taken every time I drive the car.
Rod ratio drops from a factory 1.65 to 1.6. The rev limitor will be set at 8200. Its running a pair of HKS GTRS turbo's which flow near on 800hp worth of air. The engine starts making boost a little below 2500 with a very mild tune. Ive got part of the project posted on the SAU website:
LIFE IN THE LOW LANE wrote:From building super fast Bugs to quickish Jap Taxi's. I know which one would certainly draw a bigger crowd mate!!
Yeah its the VW every time. Every time I take the bug out for a drive I end up talking to someone for about an hour about it somewhere. People are just in shock when they see what has been done to it.
Yeah im still here. 2 days to cleanup after the cyclone, 3 days no power. 2 land slides, and blocked downpipes and underground plumbing to contend with thanks to all the shredded leaves from the trees collecting on my roof. Fortunatly I didnt have any trees fall, as only 3 days prior I'd finished having the last of the trees removed as I am completely re-vamping the house and yard, new landscaping etc.
Not a lot of updates with the bug to speak of. I needed a break from the car for a bit. Projects like this one turn into an all life consuming obsession. Fortunatly I can switch to playing with the GTR for something different and then back to the bug when I get the motivation juices flowing again.
I had started work on the car again about 4-5 weeks ago, and havfe re-designed and built a new turbo header. It is now close to an equal length primary pipe from each port, and it also merges 1+3 and 2+4 as pairs. Ive used parts of the old system to drop the exhaust 90 degrees from the ports downwards, and then the header bolts upwards to it to make fittment a lot easier to do. It took 3 attempts to get it right, but im now happy with the result. I'll be lag wrapping the header instead of ceramic coating it this time. Its just a lot easier to do, and cheaper. The 90 degree dumps are still ceramic coated though.
I got as far as starting the car and checking for leaks. Then the cyclone turned up and it hasnt stopped raining since. Last night and the night before that we had some absurd amount of rain fall.and the roads are now pretty stuffed, not to mention pretty slippery.
I have sidelined my fancy instrumentation setup for the moment, but what is developed so far looks very cool. In the meantime ive added a DM200 PLX devices gauge to the wideband system to provide a more readable AFR value when driving.
Thats all for now, till I get a chance to do a propper update.
glad family, house and cars are alright and that there wasn't too much devastation for you, compared to the images that are being broadcast on the box
hope you get back up and running quickly
Cheers
D
I've still got it and as of last weekend have started working on it again. I needed a break from it. I had also gotten very caught up in home renovations and my Skyline GTR RB315DETT stroker engine project, which is for the most part finished now.
After a few more road trips in the bug I decided it was necessary to make some changes to the engine to make it a little more drivable. The combination of the 911 gearing, the twin plate clutch and an engine that didnt idle below 1200 or produce usable torque below 2000 made it impossible to drive in traffic. So the engine is now out of the car to undergo a few changes. I will be upping the compression and advancing the cam.
I'll be pulling off the heads off it this weekend, measuring up and ordering some new CP pistons with less dish (or possibly machining a little off the current ones) this weekend. There is a stack of other changes I'll be making to the car when putting it back together as well. Some is just tidying up, but also I've a few learned better ways of doing things in the last year.
Good to see progression or any sort and if you can't drive it you don't enjoy driving it.
Keep up with the pics once you have started again. How did the running boards turn out?
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
Turbo54 wrote:Good to see progression or any sort and if you can't drive it you don't enjoy driving it.
Keep up with the pics once you have started again. How did the running boards turn out?
T54
Thats exactly it. And while the car did drive feel great on the road, it had no streetable manners at all. Having to get off and on the clutch 2-3 time to pull away from the lights so it wouldnt stall or spin the wheels was painful.
The project is now well underway again as of today. I have pulled and re-measured everything to calculated what needs to be changed to raise the compression ratio.
I have also done away with the crank pully end trigger for the EFI system and have made some modifications to the flywheel to allow more accurate triggering to be done from there. It also allows for the wiring loom to be better concealed.
Piston machining will be happening next week, followed by ceramic coating again. Pictures will be posted when it all starts coming together again.
No additional progress made with the engine as of yet but the parts have been ordered and will arrive in about 4 weeks.
I decided to not just settle for another set of custom pistons ore re-machining the existing ones, and have instead ordered a set of custom LN Engineering Nickies with matched custom pistons.
The cylinders are setup with thick walls for turbo use and the pistons will bring the compression up to 8:1 and is allowing me to narrow the engine about 3mm each side which will help with the pushrod tube sealing issues I was having too.
That is all for now.
LIFE IN THE LOW LANEAll people have the right to stupidity but some abuse the pr
Its all starting to happen again. I've completely stripped the engine again now and am preparing for making some major changes.
The crank, flywheel, clutch, pulley, and pump drive are all in for machining and modification. I am removing the ring gear from the flywheel so just the porsche positioned bolt on ring gear system will remain.
I am also having part of the number 2 main bearing and front counterweight modified, so that I can change end float and thrust setup to work from the number 2 main bearing. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks. Either the coating was substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and details once its all done.
Ive had confirmation from LN Engineering that my pistons are being made by JE at the moment.
The case and MS230 heads are going to be sent down to Dave Butler soon to have the head stud arrangement altered to a custom configuration. Not T1 or Oxy boxer pattern, but half way in between.
The new nickies cylinders use an Oxy boxer 100mm case end and a 104.5mm head end, and carry a 94mm piston. This retains the 2443cc capacity but provides the necessary strength for boost.
The cylinder walls are 5mm thick at the head end, but the sealing area between the cylinder top and teh head is still the same as with a mahle cylinder.
This will be done with either a step cut at the top of the cylinder, or Dave will mill a recess from 101.3 to 104.5mm when opening the heads out to 104.5mm.
2443TT wrote:I am also having part of the number 2 main bearing and front counterweight modified, so that I can change end float and thrust setup to work from the number 2 main bearing. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks. Either the coating was substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and details once its all done.
Here are some ways that Keith did his, and i did one for a customer.
My mistake, I meant the Number 3 main. I did consider using something like Keith's setup but have decided to go another way.
Im going to move the radius on the number 3 main on the crank back further and up against the counterweight. I'll then surface the front of the counterweight out to about 5mm so it will function as the new thrust surface. This gives me about 1.75mm of room to work with for setting up the thrust area.
I'll then get a standard T1 rear main and remove 0.5mm from each side on the inside of the bearing so that it will fit the Number 3 bearing saddle, and surface the side that goes against the crank to set the endfloat towards the front of the engine.
The cam drive pully will be machined back about 1.5-2mm,and to the inside diameter of the standard T1 rear main end float adjustment shims. This will allow me to set the endfloat using standard parts. The bearing will also be slotted from the main oil gallery towards the crankshaft, so there will be oil under pressure being forced to the thrust surface.
All the other bearings can be standard 2 piece 1/2 bearings and a conventional BMW center main keeping it simple.
The only disadvantage I can see is that I can't put a thrust/end float shim on the front of the crank, as the main journal will be radiused towards the cranks counterweight.
So its similar to, but different from how Revmaster do their end float setups on their aircraft engines. They carry thrust on the bearing in a different direction though, so thats the main difference.
Never clicked on this thread before but 2 hours later..😂😂
I couldn't stop until I read the whole thread..Absolutely Awesome!!.. Kudos to you on an awesome build. The time I spent looking through this thread has nothing on the time and effort you have spent on this build.. Enjoy the car👍
2443TT wrote:. Im doing this because after all of 200km the coating on the T1 flanged thrust bearing had started to come off in big chunks. Either the coating was substandard, or my pussy 1700lb pressure plate is too much for even a coated T1 flanged bearing. I'll post more pictures and details once its all done.
Hi Ian,i was wondering if you could put up a pic of the flaking coating on the bearing?Can you flake off any more of the coating and measure the thickness of the flake or measure the bearing on the coated area then the flake area and see what thickness the coating is.The coating should only be 1/2 thou not much more than that.Also did you have the bearings coated before you had your case and crank set up or after?Just trying to figure out why the coating failed?Did you send the bearings to the northside or southside of bris?
The coating is extremely thin, definatly about a 1/2 a thou as you can't feel the edge of the coating from where it has come off the bearing. The end float was set to 8 thou, and then the bearings were sent away and coated. My guess is that the coatings adhesion to the bearing surface failed.
I can't recall exactly who did the coatings. It might have been competition coatings, or someone else. It was too long ago. I'll post up a pic when I get a chance.
Where the coating has been rubbed off the height difference has got to be barely 1/2 a thou.
Im now trying to source some Porsche 914/Type 4 thrust shims.
The latest "revised" plan is to put a 1mm step towards the counterweight above the radius off the the number 3 main journal. The three 914 shims will then sit on this step, and run against the standard T1 thrust bearing.
The cam gear will still be cut back a little and will have a couple of T1 thrust shims put on it. This combined with a slotted bearing that will force oil to the thrust surfaces will see the end of this issue.
Yep I have contacted them and pelican parts, to try and get freight for 3 shiims to be less than $40. Fixed price website freight is a little excessive...
Thanks Matt. The thinner the better. I believe the thinnest is 0.24mm or 10 thou. I'll be setting the end float by machining the bearing still, the shims are just going to be for thrust load spreading.
