binner wrote:^^^^ cheers bloke... still need to pick your brain though.
I went to bolt up the webers with those manifolds and F$%k me if the are too short!!! I'm about 40mm to low. If I try to mount the hex bar it fuggin hits the gennie!!....
Guess I'm milling up some spacers for the manifolds, glad I got a milling machine at work ;-) or if you got any easier/better ideas? 😁
What carb kit did you buy?
Maybe take a pic of manifolds, linkages and filters.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Mr Berry, here are some pics, the high side of the man is about 155mm and lowside is about 130mm....
I tried to show the difference in height on the linkage but its not too good, I'm about 40mm short...
am I missing something here?
Turn your linkage mounting plates up the right way and all will be good 🙂
The l on the r and visa versa too 🙂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
^^^^^^^.....arghhhh hahhhhhhhh I'm laughing out aloud. What a douch !!!! I swear after tomorrow no more sailor jerry and engine work.
Hope we all learnt a valuable lesson here. 😂
cheers mate.
Too much fabbing and Tasmanian giggle juice🙅
Absolute bummer about the Vintage Speed. It was the one for the early bays Matt??
The part of the rear engine mount/bar that has the bends in it going to either side, is that part of the original bar that you bought?
If it is, it is certainly different to both the bars on our busses. Reason for the ?s is that we are saving up for a Vintage speed for the wife's Dormobile.
Here is a pic
Cheers
Marcus
did some cleaning up and adjusting to make everything neat today....
its new years eve and I'm finished for the day ...on to my wifes bitter and loving it
HAPPY NEW YEAR punks see you at the top !!!!
wow lots of pipework , I've only ever tapped into one port and boosted brakes have always worked fine, big n small cammed engines , nice progress on the ute 🙂
^^^^^^^smoke the peace pipe, I love hoses all over the engine bay. I read about 1 port 2 port all ports and so many different conclusions so in the end I took Mr Berry's advice and went with all.
forgot about relocating the accelerator tube thru the fan housing and proceeded to drill thru the edge of my oil cooler. I think this thing is never going to get on the road 🙁 ..... ordered a new cooler and I can't even sit back and have a beer to calm me because I made a heavy bet with my mate. No booze for 3 months as of Jan 1st. guddamit!!!
anyone know of a cheap type 3 wagon for sale......I'm not urgent on buying but just starting to look around.
^^^^ too much cash .
finally got the donk in this weekend, had some dramas with accelerator tube posi and pipes... ohhhh all those pipes 😂
After fabbing up some parts thru the build I have decided to make my own tinware. Can't seem to find the stuff that fits anywhere.
Look'n good Ian. 👍👍
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
yee haaa,,, chuck the boards in lets go to Byron :-)
Oh,,, maybe wait till after my cardio rehab then :-(
looking good bro :-)
cheers fellas.....
Does anyone know where you can purchase thick rubber sheets from? I'm talking about 6-8mm thick, thinking about making a tinware blanket instead of all tin. I want it in one piece so I need a sheet size about 500mm X 600mm.i was thinking about industrial conveyer belt suppliers but it isn't that wide ....(i think)
cheers 😀
EDIT- found some good stuff, I'm going against the grain and going to try 20mm *aerospace tile sheet, I just gotta hope I can mould it to shape.
* may not be actual aerospace tile 😂
so Matt, what should I have the valves adjusted at for a new engine?. 6 thou or 4 thou, what kind of driving do I do to ease the engine. Loving that V Speed short shifter but my hand seems to hit the handbrake going into first gear. Maybe it needs some adjusting.
I think it will be on the road by Friday if all goes to plan. Had to put on the original paint bumpers for now and wait till I get a cash injection to have them blasted and Pcoated.
binner wrote:so Matt, what should I have the valves adjusted at for a new engine?. 6 thou or 4 thou, what kind of driving do I do to ease the engine. Loving that V Speed short shifter but my hand seems to hit the handbrake going into first gear. Maybe it needs some adjusting.
I think it will be on the road by Friday if all goes to plan. Had to put on the original paint bumpers for now and wait till I get a cash injection to have them blasted and Pcoated.
Valve clearances depend on what cam is installed. Did you build from scratch? If so cam card will tell you. If unknown, the next question is, how often do you intend to adj valves during the initial start up. My recommended sequence goes like this
Engine build-set valves .004"
Cam break in, 25 min engine time at 2000 to 2500 rpm (NO idling)-cooldown, change oil, adj valves .004"
Engine tune and test drive, full throttle max load asap(3rd gear on a steep hill for a few times is good to bed rings)-adj valves .004"
Drive.....for run in, DO NOT be a pussy- spin to redline occasionally but most important load it up and vary rpm and throttle position during cruise periods....adj valves at 500-1000km depending on how previous checks went .004", oil change and now should be cool for regular service interval.
If you want to be risky/lazy, open clearances and mileages to your descression.
My 2c
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
matberry wrote:binner wrote:so Matt, what should I have the valves adjusted at for a new engine?. 6 thou or 4 thou, what kind of driving do I do to ease the engine. Loving that V Speed short shifter but my hand seems to hit the handbrake going into first gear. Maybe it needs some adjusting.
I think it will be on the road by Friday if all goes to plan. Had to put on the original paint bumpers for now and wait till I get a cash injection to have them blasted and Pcoated.
Valve clearances depend on what cam is installed. Did you build from scratch? If so cam card will tell you. If unknown, the next question is, how often do you intend to adj valves during the initial start up. My recommended sequence goes like this
Engine build-set valves .004"
Cam break in, 25 min engine time at 2000 to 2500 rpm (NO idling)-cooldown, change oil, adj valves .004"
Engine tune and test drive, full throttle max load asap(3rd gear on a steep hill for a few times is good to bed rings)-adj valves .004"
Drive.....for run in, DO NOT be a pussy- spin to redline occasionally but most important load it up and vary rpm and throttle position during cruise periods....adj valves at 500-1000km depending on how previous checks went .004", oil change and now should be cool for regular service interval.
If you want to be risky/lazy, open clearances and mileages to your descression.
My 2c
I always love your 2 cents worth Mr Berry
Cheers bloke.
arghhhhhhhhhhhh, I just cracked my headlight glass reinstalling the headlights tonite. Anyone got a decent glass lying around to suit my bus?....need it for Fridays RWC. I cant believe I just did that.
Mick should have them, if not give me a call.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
found one ...... Lee came to the rescue.
its finally on the road and for sale now.......... 🙂
Loving this thread! For sale hey, í'll let my mate know he could be interested
"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
yup,for sale already .............. just found something I really want
.just converted to a brand new alternator today.....
wiring diagram available anywhere?... what goes where?
tar76 wrote:Loving this thread! For sale hey, í'll let my mate know he could be interested
bought the DC so lets sell this single cab
😎