30cc accel kit arrived today.... Will whack it in tomorrow.... Also on the jobs to do list is move the O2 and boost gauges from the rear view mirror to the lower 'A' pillar, and the shift light to the tach.... Looking for some better/lighter rear tyres too... Anyone got any suggestions?
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
If not slicks the choice has to be M/T ET Drag radial.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Just be careful of front tyre height , If car is lowered a little , a tyre about 24inches works well and looks good .
So check nankang tyre height first .Most front runners are smaller (lower)then what is writen on side.
On Rod's (48IDA) car we run Hoosier 23X4.5-15 on front and back MH racemaster 6X26-15slicks.
This is what I'm looking at for the rear.....
http://www.vwparts.net/MSS-016.html
Is there anything wrong with running 135 Nagkangs on the front and the M&H Cheaters on the rear??
Think might have just broken it....
It's too hot to check for sure.... It's cooling down right now, but it just made a very scarey noise whilst I was setting the carb, then stopped abruptly...
🙁
humpty wrote:Think might have just broken it....
It's too hot to check for sure.... It's cooling down right now, but it just made a very scarey noise whilst I was setting the carb, then stopped abruptly...
🙁
Oh no, while idling......??? May not be too bad. Keep us informad. Had you been working on it.....any chance of injestion???? Was everything sounging ok while running, asny noises at the track.....?????????????
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
It was idling.... Only just got it up to temp... Was a little rich, as I had just fitted the new accell pump and had gone back to base settings.... All seemed good, no noises, no oil pressure issues, no problems at the track.... Just now, before I shut the shed, I noticed the EDIS timing wheel had fallen off the pulley!!!!???? Can't get a socket onto the bottom pulley to turn the engine over, scared to try the starter..... I'll pull the apron and rear tin off and check it in the morning.... I really hope it's only a timing issue and nothing major has failed as a result.
She'll be right mate, just the chopper wheel coming off, that'll stop it for sure, nothing else should have been harmed. Any noises would be timing related.👍👍👍
Fingers crossed dude, throw a spanner on the pulley and have a swing.......🙂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Hope so...
I second Matt - loss of ignition control could have made all sorts of nasty pops and farts..... But with little likelihood of causing mechanical damage internally....
Good luck !
Thirded(?) you'll be right Simon
Just got everything off, and the engine turns over fine.... No scarey noises.... The damage is minimal.... The pulley (made by Dave Stoker back in the day) is scratched up, a broken thread from the timing wheel mount is stuck in the pulley, the timing wheel is a little banged up but not bent, the sensor took a couple of hits, but looks ok and the sensor mount is bent....
Looks ok, just a little beat up.... Yet another battle scar to add to the POS' history book!
Good to hear mate!!
ACCEPT THAT SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE PIDGEON AND SOME DAYS YOU ARE THE STATUE
Alder Outlaws VW Racing - check it out on fb!!
Hooray 🙂
👍 👍 👍 cool as, a few battle scars just add to the 'patina'..... 🙂
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Chicks love scars.......apparently
Is there anything wrong with running 135 Nagkangs on the front and the M&H Cheaters on the rear??
Are the Nankangs radials or bias?
ANDRA rules state you can only go to 12.5 with slick on the back and radials on the front, but besides the rules, running 12s with a slick will feel much more stable with a bias on the front to match.
Up until mid-12s, it's fair game, and how it feels at the top end.
The Nagkangs are radials....
Simon, did you get my pm, Barry
essex wrote:Simon, did you get my pm, Barry
Nope....
Have finished the new sensor mount.... I clocked the sensor and wheel about 15º (ATDC) to make it easier to check TDC and timing.... And to move the sensor and wiring away from the fan belt a little more.... I reckon it's come up pretty good....
And before you say anything about that Gene Berg timing decal on the pulley.... It is 180º out!!!.... I put it on wrong 20 years ago! :roll:
Up and running again.... Made a little video too.... Brushing up on my editing skills before school starts don't you know..... It's a very basic edit so I'll post it right up later this eve....
Scored some M&H Front Runners off Barry.... Price was right, so I guess I did want them.... Gonna order some 215/65-15 M&H Cheater Slicks next month.... Will fit these up on the ERCO's and make up a street set of BRM's for the POS.... Will have a pair of near new 145/65-15 Continental's for 100 clams if anyone is interested.... Only done 200km and a handful of quarter mile passes....
Gonna start on making up a crankcase breather now... The engine was pushing oil out the dipstick hole at the track the other week.... I've been putting this off for a while now, but the time has come.... Gonna fit it to the inner guard panel, just inside the engine bay, right over the intake manifold.... Will vent the rhs rocker cover and crankcase to it, with a drain back prolly down to the TIII oil filler hole. Anyone have a problem with that idea?.... Will go a take some mock-up pics shortly.
IMO I wouldn't bother with the drain back to the Type 3 oil filler, the breather pipes themselves will double as the drain back, as long as one is dedecated to this job being fitted to the bottom of the breather tank and having a direct path with no loops or dips in the hose to gather oil.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Whadayareckon?
Here?
Any issue with mounting the can sideways?..... It has an internal baffle tube that sits inline with the air filter...
Or here?
This one will make it a little harder to work on the car.... But will use the fittings as designed....
Plan was the drain going back to the TIII filler in the sump.... But as Matt has suggested, the breather lines can do double duty.... The rocker cover and one from the oil filler, or the dizzy drive plug, depending on which setup...
I think if you mount it sideways it will fill with oil up to the inlet fitting before any oil feeds back to the sump. Probably no big issue to be honest but it looks like that catch can is designed to be vertical.
I'm for vertical too, RH tappet cover and a big -10 or -12 to the dissy plug.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Yeah..... Your right... The other option is neater and cooler, but not really ideal I know....
Thinking, thinking.....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RCI-DRAG-RACE-FUEL-CELL-1-GALLON-W-FOAM-RCI2010D-/160624856579?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2565fcce03
Also looking at better, light weight brakes for the car.... They must fit inside the ERCO's.... Any suggestions?
That fuel cell looks the go, awesome price.
Not sure what brakes to recommend, I think most will fit inside your Ercos. Will they make your car go faster??? 😉
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
