Hi guys,
Came across a rust converter the other day called Metalfix (by Phoenix paints).
Anyone had any experiance with it?
I ned to hit the inside of my tunel with something.
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
I just filled a spray gun up with rust converter and sprayed the inside of the tunnel....
Ask an industrial sandblaster what they use? Or look at the UK market. If you can get it shipped then they have far superior products compared to Oz as the UK has far worse rust troubles then us 🙂
Dinitrol, Jenolite, Kurust.....the list goes on. Practical Classic mag is great for such adverts too.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Newt wrote:Hi guys,
Came across a rust converter the other day called Metalfix (by Phoenix paints).
Anyone had any experiance with it?
I ned to hit the inside of my tunel with something.
Newt
Someone of Here sells ANCHOR WAX ...
which seals the metal.. over rust etc...
and dries hard .. looked it up and seems great stuff..
can be painted over... if needed.. even better than fish oil..!
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
68AutoBug wrote:Newt wrote:Hi guys,
Came across a rust converter the other day called Metalfix (by Phoenix paints).
Anyone had any experiance with it?
I ned to hit the inside of my tunel with something.
Newt
Someone of Here sells ANCHOR WAX ...
which seals the metal.. over rust etc...
and dries hard .. looked it up and seems great stuff..
can be painted over... if needed.. even better than fish oil..!
LEE
Cool but does it have a rust stabiliser/converter properties? If not then the metal will just rust more slowly underneath the protective new skin.
You always must kill the rust before using a covering Wax. Waxoyl, from RS components of all people (the only Oz importer), is one of the few wax treatments that has a stabiliser and is a self healing wax that never hardens.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Cheers Guys
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
Guys,
Out of curiosity, has any one tried electrolysis for inside tunnels. I dont know, stick a star picket inside and wire it to the positive lead.
I was reading about using washing soda (and not baking soda which seems to be a no no) in water as the solution. Is this in itself inherently salty and cause more damage if you dont clean up adequately? (what is adequately?).
Just pondering....
Cheers
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
do you mean electro the rust off?
Seriously, get hold of an issue of Practical Classic and look at all the rust treatment adverts. Bilt and Humber are one of the best and a few 500ml cans will fix your tunnel easily with the 600mm injection lances 😉
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
I have always used Septone Rust coververter - from auto paint supply stores. Has been good to me but I have not been doing it that long compared to most.
I have been recommended a mix to use in the non seen areas instead of fish oil.
= Valvoline Tectyl with a little bit of motor oil. Apparently it works really well.
I have never tried it though, so may be something you would have to research further.
Cheers,
Brad
1966 Aussie 11 Window
68AutoBug wrote:Newt wrote:Hi guys,
Came across a rust converter the other day called Metalfix (by Phoenix paints).
Anyone had any experiance with it?
I ned to hit the inside of my tunel with something.
Newt
Someone of Here sells ANCHOR WAX ...
which seals the metal.. over rust etc...
and dries hard .. looked it up and seems great stuff..
can be painted over... if needed.. even better than fish oil..!
LEE
You can't paint over Anchor wax
It's just that a wax, the paint won't stick to it.
It's like an oil that you just cover the surface rust with, it won't cure the rust it just stops it getting worse
rust bullet
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
for fks sake! lee stop giving advise...
anchor wax can not be painted over, its wax!!!!
1961 swb buggy
1960 karmann ghia
1963 Single Cab: "El Concreto"
1963 bent 23 window " Frieda Samba "
1963 Eriba Faun camper " Cara Van daCamp"
2012 Skoda Octavia scout
Get down low and go,go,go
This will proberbly get deleted but I really can't help myself here.
Lee you are a mod, you should really check your facts before you post.
You could have cost a member a lot of money on wasted paint if they had taken your advice
Tectyl has no converter within it's make up from what I've read.
Seriously I'm not joking. Oz is poorly setup for rust problems. Buy from USA or UK to be certain of a good result. Being patriotic is fine so long as you have a product that works. KBS is great stuff but needs proper surface prep like POR15. Cavity wax with rust inhibitor is the only way to go and Waxoyl, Dinitrol n Bilt n humber are the way to go for long standing results.
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
Whatever rust treatment you use, it WILL NOT improve the strength of the existing steel section that is being treated - only [maybe] stop the rust from going further. Badly rusted sections, particularly structural areas, should be replaced.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
HappyDaze wrote:Whatever rust treatment you use, it WILL NOT improve the strength of the existing steel section that is being treated - only [maybe] stop the rust from going further. Badly rusted sections, particularly structural areas, should be replaced.
Yes, I agree. That is what bog is for!
🙂I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!😂
yes bog is strong...... "snap"
bog is a pos! thats why its called bog.
cut out and replace, weld, braze, lead fill. etc... is the only proper way to fix metal.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE
If the inside of the tunnel is anything more than light surface rust then an inhibitor will have trouble getting to the bas steel.
Any bad rust needs proper repair like everyone else has said 😉
madness is in the eye of the beholder 👍
