I've seen good panel beaters fix panels crumpled and creased far worse than that.
It would probably cost more to weld a new section in the massage that back into shape.
I think that might be the case too Joel...
What did they do with Jeff's bug when he rolled it? Did they just push it out or did they cut and re-weld the roof?
Picked up the new bonnet, going to get back out there and install it as soon as possible and grab a photo.
Should rub the bonnet back but not going to bother as in about three to four months she'll be getting painted and what not.
SebastienPeek wrote:I think that might be the case too Joel...
What did they do with Jeff's bug when he rolled it? Did they just push it out or did they cut and re-weld the roof?
Picked up the new bonnet, going to get back out there and install it as soon as possible and grab a photo.
Should rub the bonnet back but not going to bother as in about three to four months she'll be getting painted and what not.
Hope your not parking it out the front anymore?
Definitely not!
In the garage when I'm not playing with her.
More pictures to come as new bonnet is on...
Looks like she might need a top end rebuild on the engine since the kitty litter incident...
Boom, new bonnet.
Question for everyone, top end rebuild kits, possible to purchase them?
1776cc kit? Maybe even just a 1641cc kit? Need some links.
Top end for mine means heads. Check these out
http://www.cbperformance.com/category.asp?categoryid=8, loads of options.
SebastienPeek wrote:What did they do with Jeff's bug when he rolled it? Did they just push it out or did they cut and re-weld the roof?
Seb, they just removed the headliner and beat it out. On my roof, a lot of it was where the gutters had been pushed down by the roof racks. Came up sweet though. I reckon they should be able to repair yours though.
From your ole' mate Jeff
Yep, I am going to need new heads, push rod tubes and all the gaskets inbetween.
Will see what I get recommended to grab, but need to find out as much as possible and yeah.
Going to be another big job, will see what happens.
She's running on three cylinders. Will refurb the current engine, I think that is the most cost effective.
I bought one of Classic's, Top End Rebuild Kits, 1641cc for $750. Halfway through putting it in. I'm sure there are better out there and I guess I'll found out if I am to learn the hard lesson of you get what you pay for. End of the day it was a case of going for what I could afford at the time ...... and get past the 'Minister For Finance and Entertainment' without having to explain myself.
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."
Seb been trying to PM you but it keeps bugging out?!
Follow the Photo Fun:
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=95238
- '70 1500 Beetle (The Clean One)
- '76 1300 Beetle (The In-between One)
- '69 1500 Beetle (The Mean One)
beetleboyjeff wrote:Seb, they just removed the headliner and beat it out. On my roof, a lot of it was where the gutters had been pushed down by the roof racks. Came up sweet though. I reckon they should be able to repair yours though.
Thanks Jeff!
Yeah, it seems my gutters are a little screwed as well. Inside anyway. Too afraid to rip out the headliner to see the full extent of the damage...
Might see if I can find anyone here in Adelaide who has had a lot of luck with beetle bodies. I guess any panel beater could do it and charge a lot, but I wouldn't trust them over someone who's done it to VW's for a while...
Ollie wrote:Seb been trying to PM you but it keeps bugging out?!
That's kinda crap Ollie! I'll send you one and hopefully you can reply.
TorxKiwi wrote:I bought one of Classic's, Top End Rebuild Kits, 1641cc for $750. Halfway through putting it in. I'm sure there are better out there and I guess I'll found out if I am to learn the hard lesson of you get what you pay for. End of the day it was a case of going for what I could afford at the time ...... and get past the 'Minister For Finance and Entertainment' without having to explain myself.
Will definitely have to keep an eye on this then, can you report back your findings and so forth? What is the current build quality?
I may be able to salvage my current heads and so forth, but I would be kinda keen for getting a nice little bit of performance upgrade to a 1641cc. Not much, but enough for a P plater!
SebastienPeek wrote:Looks like she might need a top end rebuild on the engine since the kitty litter incident...
Maybe you should do a compression test on the engine as well as check for spark before you go diving into an engine rebuild that might not be required.
Could be something as simple as a dodgy spark plug or internally broken plug lead that is causing the miss.
Smiley
🙂If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Quite possibly.
She is leaking quite a bit of oil from where the head joins the case though, it is looking quite bad anyway.
Will take a photo tomorrow morning of what I'm talking about.
I am under the impression that it'll need a top end rebuild.
After that, she should be fine.
Alrighty, tomorrow night we'll find out what the go is with the lack of firing on the third cylinder.
I do have a question however, CSP Kadron linkage or, is it possible to get a HEX bar for Kadrons?
A lot of people are commenting on the fact that I should keep Zelda like it is with the front bonnet.
Have also been told that I should try and do the sunroof option. We will see what I can find and invest in!
Zelda is alive!
I don't think I have been this happy for a while when it comes to happenings with Zelda!
To finally know that I can now drive Zelda around as soon as I have the side mirrors.
Absolutely loving life, it is awesome!
Next up will be getting the decklid all fixed up properly. Will go ventless and drill holes behind the number plate, raise the plate up and there we have an area for airflow.
After that, it comes saving my money for the respray and sunroof installation.
MST Billet Serpentine Belt System shall be leaving American shores on Friday, which means 6 to 10 days from Friday and it'll be in my hands and within an hour, on Zelda.
Looking forward to having everything come together, we will see what happens though, will keep everyone updated that is for sure!
Once again, I must thank one such person who, not only goes out of his way to come and help, but has taught me so much about Zelda.
Thanks again!
Why wasn't it firing on one cylinder?
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Could have been something as simple as a lead not being attached to the spark plug properly...
Just don't tell anyone. But no, we solved the whine as well, replaced the metal gaskets with rubber ones and made sure the manifolds were as tight as possible. Next up is her voyage around the block, most likely tomorrow morning!
Been driving along nicely, has a little back fire when accelerating through second and think I have a fuel leak somewhere, or my fuel sender is being a bit dodgy...
Keeps fluctuating (more than just depending on how I'm driving) and it is quite weird, last night had a leak at the front, seems to have dripped down the fender beading or something, was very odd!
Will investigate some more today, but will hopefully be reinstalling the sound system today, determining fuel leak and then comes a week of waiting for my belt system to come.
I get some nice belt slippage and the new exhaust, hell, I think I still have a tiny air leak on the RHS manifold, but it makes Zelda sound like she has a turbo whine!
Anyway, just thought I'd do a quick update!
Getting a quote this week on the roof fix too, so we'll see what happens there as well. Alarm system will hopefully be installed this week at some point too.
Oh, I forgot to mention something!
I was just checking over Zelda when I noticed a tech screw embedded in the LHS front tire!
So, we changed the front wheels over to steelies, LHS front has a hubcap on, RHS doesn't.
It's quite funny how much of a bomb she does look like at the moment.
On the up side, it means I have no "Super bug shimmy" going on anymore!
Mum says that she has a severe case of cellulite on the roof, which always makes me have a little laugh!
Looks like a full brake system upgrade will be had soon. Will be running 5x120 PCD so that will make finding wheels a little easier that is for sure!
What is needed to convert the rear drums to discs? Links would help!
Backfire through second gear is most likely caused to Zelda being timed to retarded.
Will time it to 7.5 degrees BTDC and see if that helps tomorrow. Something to do before work I guess!
Fuel sender is being a bit dodgy as previously mentioned, what are the things I should do to get it working properly?
Some things that occur every time I start the car.
- Key in, accessories position, gauge goes to halfway and then falls right off past zero.
- Engine started, gauge goes up to about the end of the red section.
- Accelerating off, gauge goes to the "correct" position I guess.
It is just odd, would like to know of any pointers or of where I should be looking to fix this problem?
Seb, for the PCD of your wheels have a look at the most range of offsets/sizes available for a individual PCD and then choose which one you will go with. If you are going to drill them anyway. I went Ford stud pattern and that opens wheels styles that I like for my individual car to all ford, nissan, honda, jeep and more. Research it all first, do just do it because it is done before.
T54
C'mon kids gather round,
there's a new sensation hitting town,
It's moving straight, low to the ground,
it'll pick you up when your feeling down.
Hey T54,
I've already got 5x120 full disc brake setup coming, that is what BMW's and Holden's run so I'm pretty sure I'll be looked after when it comes to wheel sizes and offsets.
The fronts are cross drilled vw rotor/twin calipers, the rear are cross drilled EA Falcon discs brake as well. I'll be going discs all around solely due to the fact that I am seriously considering something a bit bigger in the engine department.
I will definitely be doing something I haven't seen before with Zelda, sure some things will be stuff that other people have done, but when it comes to wheels (offset, size, monoblock or three piece) I will be doing something quite different that is for sure. As well as when it comes the actual stance of Zelda, it'll be quite low indeed, but we all know what Adelaide roads are like and that isn't very practical for a daily driven car. So I'll be doing something quite different there too...
Anyway, quick update. Tried my hand at the static timing of Zelda this morning. Seems she was already timed to 7.5 BTDC but I left it too late to do any real changes before having to head off to work. Will have to time her to 10 degrees BTDC and see how much that changes the acceleration issue tonight when I get home. It could also be the air leak on the RHS manifold that is causing it so will go and get new gaskets and fix that up over the weekend hopefully. Belt slips and the generator/alternator pulley is actually cutting into the alternator. May change the pulley to the old generator one and change to the old generator belt as well, see how that goes when it comes to rubbing the alternator itself. The new belt system is currently in transit from Los Angeles to Adelaide which is exciting!
More news to come.
Had some really strange issues lately. Petrol being the common denominator for both...
The other night I pulled up in the driveway to notice a pool of petrol at the front of the car. This got me a little worried that's to say the least.
I tracked it back to a line, which, makes me wonder what is going on. I'll let the pictures do to the talking...
As you can see, there is a small line coming off the thicker line here.
This line then runs down inside the bonnet area and out of a hole under the front fender.
For some reason it was pooling petrol in the fender and therefore causing a leak at the front.
I don't understand why this is only happening now, but my fuel gauge is also out. Could these two things be linked somehow?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
That is the breather hose
It needs to be up high - clipped to the under side of the "apron"
If its too hot in there this is where the air expands to and "can" push fuel out it
Futue te ipsum!!!
Holy crap, no wonder the thing was puking out fuel and smelling of vapours all the time.
Like that when ever you went round a left hand corner it woulda sloshed fuel out that hose.
Barrys has had replacement hoses fitted probably when the charcoal canister was removed?
which makes it a little hard to see whats going on.
I'm too lazy to replace my 37 year old breather hoses 😂
they are still ok, so you can see how its meant to go.
that hose needs to go up under the windscreen panel and down out the other side, youll see the clips that hold the hose.
Hi
You can buy new elbows from Vintage or maybe someone down your way, these could get hard to buy in the future.
I went a slightly different on my bug route and used a AN 90 degree fitting.
Steve
yeah - my tank is different as well
The 75 tank had a take off at the front of the tank.
that is where the braided hose goes that taps into a 3 piece brass bit
Mine also has 2 take offs on the rear passenger side - but these are just looped
The trick seems to be keeping the breather up high
Futue te ipsum!!!
Thanks again guys, have corrected the problem minus one tube, just need one more flex tube and she'll be complete.
I'm also wondering.
Have read up a lot about the 009 distributors and how there is usually a delay between throttle response and so forth. Causing hesitation when coming out of a corner for me anyway.
What can be done to correct this? Basically, the reason why I think it may be the distributor, is that when coming into a corner in second and coming out still in second, she backfires and the continues. Could this also be due to a small air leak on one of the manifolds?
Hopefully today or tomorrow another bit comes for the engine and she'll be looking a lot better. Going to have to book her in somewhere to get the endless amount of oil leaks to be fixed sooner rather than later. She's definitely marking her territory everywhere.
