G'day Dubbers
I've got a near new 1916 which is coming due for an oil change. I would like your thoughts on what oil I should run in it.
Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
Ace 30, seems to be the go mate. I checked out their website and looks to be a good oil .
"Obey your Dreams"!
62 Std beetle.
65 11 wnd Split "The Cross".
6? coming very soon!!!!
Thanks Mate.
I'll have a look at it.
Can anyone tell me where I can buy Ace 30? I also discovered that there is Ace 40 as well. Interested to know peoples experiences with these and other oils used.
Cheers.
castrole edge 20w/50 with some of that molly lube additive,cant go wrong....
Pennzoil HPR 30 for me.
whatever is on special😀 just change it regularly.
Penrite HPR 30 ,readily available oil with a good zinc content for flat tappet cam engines, cheapest part of your engine is the oil.
I agree with vwo60.
You should NOT use synthetic oil until the engine is broken in and the rigs are seated or it can cause problems.
An oil with zinc is important. Most oil manufacturers have taken most of the zinc out to save money as modern engines all have roller tappets (or lifters, cam followers) and the zinc is what lubes them. Cams tend to wear out faster nowadays without the zinc.
I work in the oil industry and i cannot believe that mono grade oils are said to be the best, i always run the penrite HPR 30 with out any problems, i even use it in my briggs and stratton that has been flogged for 15 yerars with only oil changes that are carried out regualy, i bet if i ran a mono grade oil as recommended it would not have lasted this long.
vwo60 wrote:I work in the oil industry and i cannot believe that mono grade oils are said to be the best, i always run the penrite HPR 30 with out any problems, i even use it in my briggs and stratton that has been flogged for 15 yerars with only oil changes that are carried out regualy, i bet if i ran a mono grade oil as recommended it would not have lasted this long.
So what grade do you recommend for a old tired 1600? I was told any 20W-50
❓Samantha 🤪
'73 Super Beetle: Fully restored, bare metal re-spray, custom interior...lovin' it 🙂
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/engine-oils/hpr/hpr_30_premium_mineral
It is a 20W-60 but it is designed to run were you would use a 20W-50, you can phone a engineer at penrite and talk to him about your use and get a recommendation from them. if your engine is tired you might be able to use any 20W-50, just check to see if it has a good zinc content.
Penrite HPR30 it is. It was also recommended to me outsise of this forum. That many people can't be wrong.
Cheers everyone for the responses.
whathaveidone wrote:whatever is on special😀 just change it regularly.
BAD INFO...
You should always use the same brand of oil....
Oils aren't the same...
if You use 'no brand' oil , Your don't think much of Your engine..
same as switching brands all the time...
A No No... IMHO...
20w/50 is usual.. some people use 20w/60 if their engine is worn a bit...
LEE
Zinc was taken out of the oils because its not needed in new engines... only flat tappets need it.. like VWs..
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
thebugnut wrote:I agree with vwo60.
You should NOT use synthetic oil until the engine is broken in and the rigs are seated or it can cause problems.
You should NOT use synthetic oil on aircooled engine.
(Poor heat transfer qualities.)
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!😂
Every oil change i 'personally' throw in a dose of Lucus Oil Stabilizer. Its added security incase a mass oil leak sends the bearings dry. And as its been mentioned, once you finally get that oil pressure warning light while your driving, its already too late (IE: damage been done).
I seem to attract bad events so the insurance of it is simply piece of mind incase the baja spills while i'm bashing about.
On the Lucus Oil Stabilizer website, it has testimonials and one in particular was a vw beetle doing a rally event. after loosing oil pressure with the oil light glowing not so far from the finish line, the competitors thought it was silly to pull out now when so close. Of course, expecting the engine to be toast. They finished the event, and upon tear down of the block, no damage was found 👍! well, there had to be at least a little, but so they say.
The stabilizer maintained that gacky membrane over the bearings to prevent full surface to surface contact. And you can't say the event of loosing oil pressure while driving doesn't happen, even Lee here has had an experience 😀
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
Just reading the penrite webpage.
the new 10 tenths oil seems to be a good option. It has a high zinc content and fully sen.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
Are the penrite classic range of oils good for aircooled motors?
You can bypass all the advice on this fourm and talk to a engineer at penrite direct and discuss any issues that you have.
well they recommend the classic oils and not the hpr 30 for the standard engine on their website, so thats why I wanted to know if anyoene else used the classic range?
Thanks for info vwo60
never had a problem using hpr30 🙂 but then i just have a stock 1500 sp
I have a 2275, 2054 and 1776 and all have HPR 30 in them.
Personally I use Penrite HPR Gas Premium. It is the same as HPR 30 with extra zinc and potassium
smithy68 wrote:well they recommend the classic oils and not the hpr 30 for the standard engine on their website, so thats why I wanted to know if anyoene else used the classic range?
Thanks for info vwo60
I use the Classic Medium, it is a bit more expensive than HPR30 and has more zinc content which is what you need.
That good to hear 57oval because I have a box of the stuff that was given to me , classic medium.
Think I'll be using it then.
I've been using Penrite HPR5 (semi synthetic) 5W-40, on my new 1776 since Richard built is approx 2 yrs ago. Am I best changing now to the HPR30? It uses a little more oil than I'd like, which is not a problem so long as I keep an eye on things.
Nick.
Brad Penn 10-w30 . The one and only.
might be a stupid question, but what does the zinc content do to the oil??
I used to use Brad Penn, now I use ACE, Aussie made, more available (than Brad Penn), and a true viscosity rating unlike the other oil prominantly mentioned above. I also found better oil pressure at temperature with ACE over Brad Penn and Castrol of similar viscosity.
Zinc and Phosphate (sp) often combined in the spec., are said to be required for lifter/camshaft longevety.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
The zinc in the oil helps protect the cam follower's, it has become a issue with all flat tappet cammed engines as the oil manufactures remove the zinc so it does no damage the catalitic converters on modern cars. nikos i would run the oil you have been using as a change could increase the consumption
