Looks like engine three will be getting into Zelda on Sunday if all goes to plan.
The past few Sunday's have been great, learning quite a lot and I will hopefully learn even more come this Sunday.
Topline MaXX struts didn't arrive today though, but they should arrive on Monday...
Will be a nice eighteenth birthday present to come home from work to, which will be awesome to say the least!
any pics of the new shell??
I can try and get some if all goes to plan Sunday, still need to confirm but I'm sure everything will be okay.
Hopefully everything goes to plan on Sunday and I become a happy chappy again.
Just need to put in the hours 🙂
Quick update.
New engine is in and running really smoothly.
Only issue is the LHS Kadron seems to have had water in it at one stage in its life time. Causing it to run quite rough and when tuning, not have much of an effect.
I may start to consider going to Webers or I might just try and pick up another 40mm Kadron, we will see what happens. But for now, it is running smooth enough for a daily that I'm extremely happy.
Best part, no oil leaks on the drive way!
A year ago Dad bought me Zelda. A year later, she's had a lot done to her!
SebastienPeek wrote:Quick update.
New engine is in and running really smoothly.
Only issue is the LHS Kadron seems to have had water in it at one stage in its life time. Causing it to run quite rough and when tuning, not have much of an effect.
I may start to consider going to Webers or I might just try and pick up another 40mm Kadron, we will see what happens. But for now, it is running smooth enough for a daily that I'm extremely happy.
Best part, no oil leaks on the drive way!
A year ago Dad bought me Zelda. A year later, she's had a lot done to her!
Was only thinking that the other day,whilst reading your latest updates.She's had a pretty lively time since you have owned her.
Just pull the Kadron off and check it out. Rebuild it if necessary. There's no need to go buying another set of carbies cause of a little problem like that. Find out what the issue is then fix it!
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
Ahaha alright, will do Smiley!
I got the struts today in the post. Get to open them up very soon, quite excited to see them!
Yesterday was my birthday, and as much as Mum hates me playing with Zelda, she bought me a MechPro 143pc toolbox! 😀
your last post just made it 666 replies, unless your a demon i thought i would add this comment for no reason at all.
keen to see the struts too
Im so happy I could just shit.
Struts won't be going on until I've got new wheels as they don't work with 15" rims, the rim will supposedly hit the ball joint and to be honest with you, I don't want to find out the hard way!
So, I have purchased some wheels, straight from Japan.
Now I need to get some disc brakes studded for me in a 114.3x5 pattern.
Some very nice wheels coming for Zelda that is for sure, just a long arse wait now, six to eight weeks they should arrive on my door step, then I'm upgrading the lip sizes and the sort to get them perfect.
Need to get them sand blasted and powder coated as well, might even re-barrel them but not 100% sure on that.
The ball joint doesn't change, you're just replacing the strut.
All adjustable struts including Maxx are same as stock struts just abit shorter.
The only time it's a problem is when you fit wider wheels that interfere with the ball joint, and 15" rims its only a matter of cutting the excess thread off.
Oh, okay, that's weird, they said that anything below 16, 17 and 18 inch wheels will hit the ball joint...
I guess that means when they're 15x7 or something of the sort.
Will see what happens.
Who reckons that? Jon at topline?
It depends on offset and width more than diameter.
You can see here on mine where the problem is.
I've got some 15x6 speedy rims that clear it no problems
But a 15" wheel with same width and offset as my 17s would touch the excess ball joint thread sticking through the bottom of the control arm.
It can be trimmed down though.
Yeah, it stated in the instructions.
So you're saying I should be able to just put them on with the steelies that I currently have?
If that's the case, then I'll put them on ASAP while I'm waiting for the new wheels to come from Japan land.
He's just covering his arse by saying all wheels so people cant ring up and bitch booo hooo these XXXX wheels don't fit.
If stock wheels rubbed with Maxx struts then they would rub with stock ones too 😉
As I mentioned you're not changing the ball joint, only strut and even that is the same basic design, jut shorter with a skinnier spring and adjustable perch.
Awesome, will attempt it on Sunday.
Have a long day ahead of me at work that is for sure.
Here's a quick picture I took this evening just out the back of work.
As for what is happening, hoping Thursday can get some stuff done.
Until then, still waiting on word about my wheels. Once they arrive, got a lot to do!
Thinking about doing a winter mode. 1600tp with a stock exhaust/heater setup.
Summer mode will hopefully be a nice 1835cc with engine two case. Obviously that will be running the VintageSpeed exhaust without heaters...
We'll see what happens!
Engines Looking Great!
But what is happening with the Body? did you fix the roof?
From Dylan
1835?
🙅
Futue te ipsum!!!
Dylan,
Roof is as it was before (pushed out a little) and gaining some rust.
There are a couple of things I can do. I have the option for another body, I also have the option to get the current roof panel beated and I also have the option to get a roof cut and someone graph it into the current body.
Bizarre,
Either a 1835cc or a 1916cc, it is currently up in the air.
I find out what way I should/can go tomorrow when I put the struts in.
Only time will tell.
Seriously don't go for a 1835cc Seb, go the 1916cc because 1835's have alot of problems, i cant remember the exact reason for why they arnt as good a motor as a 1916 but i do know it costs around the same money for a 1916cc and they are a better more reliable motor. If i was you Seb i wouldnt waste this body i would try repair it as well as i could and yes you have a few options of if you graft new roof section in or just pannel beat this one out. Have a good yarn to a specialist in body accident damage (or in your case, on purpose by arseholes damage) and decide what would be the best option. All the best with it seb, it has come along way since you bourght it, just gotta fix the bump in the roof and she be right.
From Dylan
my 1835cc runs fine actually a really gutsy motor
Yeah i have heard they can be good but i have heard they are more likley to have problems and things go wrong, thats only what i have heard and it's more common to see 1916's around then 1835's so must have some truth but im not an expert in engines, ill be looking at hotting up mine once i get it Regoed.
From Dylan
1835's have a thinner bore than 1915's.
So they have a greater tendency to be effected by heat. Cause the cylinder walls are thinner they warp a lot more easily, causing excessive blowby etc.
The cost is exactly the same for both. There is no difference. So why would you go with the smaller one that has the above problems?
Go for the 1915 Seb, there's no replacement for displacement 😎
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
or if your set on the 1835 combo go with the "thick wall" 92's these are just as thick as a standard bore
BMW R65 LS
1967 1300 Deluxe
Swing-axles FTW
❗
Smiley nailed it, 92mm are just the 1776 made even thinner to fit bigger cylinders.
THey're marginal if you drive like a stocker in a light bug but not many people build bigger engines to drive like a nanna.
I had an 1835 years ago, it used more oil than fuel ran hot etc 🤪
The new thick walled 92s menitioned above are the go, they are 1916 bore but with thicker walls but abit overkill when 94s work fine.
Lachlan VL wrote:my 1835cc runs fine actually a really gutsy motor
yep
😎 more than u need at the moment....
Aha yeah, well, tomorrow I will find out what I head for.
I'm pretty sure I'll end up with a nice 1916cc, we'll see what happens.
Tomorrow also starts my first break from work in a while.
Five day weekend here we come! Going to try and get a lot done, we will see what happens I guess!
Have to decide on a colour for Zelda too.
Thinking Porsche grey, don't know for sure yet, have to decide soon though!
SebastienPeek wrote:Aha yeah, well, tomorrow I will find out what I head for.
I'm pretty sure I'll end up with a nice 1916cc, we'll see what happens.
Tomorrow also starts my first break from work in a while.
Five day weekend here we come! Going to try and get a lot done, we will see what happens I guess!
Have to decide on a colour for Zelda too.
Thinking Porsche grey, don't know for sure yet, have to decide soon though!
After all Zelda's been through,now your'e going to paint her Battleship grey?
Let's ust say, she is going to not look like Zelda soon.
She'll be a new Zelda. I guess, thanks to the idiots that stomped on her, I have figured out the exact look I want to do and go for it.
Now that I have a higher up job at work, I can pour as much money into her as I want.
But I guess I do have a limit however, still living with Mum means she doesn't enjoy me spending too much on her.
Wheels have been sent from Japan today.
Which means there is a nice long wait until they arrive at my door step.
I have six to eight weeks to get blank rotors and get them studded to 114.3x5 PCD.
I have six to eight weeks to get the 1916cc into Zelda.
I have six to eight weeks to get the body ready for paint.
She'll be completely different in two to three months that is for sure!
Today also brings lowering Zelda a few inches at the front with the MaXX Struts from Topline.
Will post up an image or two tonight when it is all done.
Got those struts in yet?
Smiley 🙂
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
