Got spark happening; and then systematically checked all the ignition system from switch to plugs - all working
So still no start; and the winner is fuel....
disconnected the fuel hose that goes to the tee piece and it was dry; looked under the car and the fuel isn't moving past the filter that is next to the gearbox,
Ironic seeing that everyone said look out for too much pressure!! 😂😂
Will get a new pump tomorrow and hopefully the thing will go, next time I get a new motor i'll take the whole car up and get it turn key!
Oh c'mon Shaun... just get it DONE already will ya !!!
🥷
btw - you've checked it's not just a blocked filter, or a bug crawled into the disconnected fuel hose or somethin... yeah ???
Like the others have said - nothing more satisfying than when you've got it going yourself...
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01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
doubled checked all the fuel connections and the fuel is making it to the pump have cranked it over and nothing is coming out of the pump.
The rod length is fine too; I checked the rod movement and also length when I installed the pump,
The lines are installed correctly too; into the top one and out the bottom one, sounds silly but I took photos of it before I took everything off too make sure it went together in the working order! 👍
Thanks for all the replies everyone; appreciate the help
I once had the pivot pin work loose and fall out of a fuel pump on my l bug.... It moved enough that the mechanism inside the pump fell off it and th pump thus had zero stroke length and no fuel flow ( Brazilian rubbish). That was a biatch to troubleshoot....
Do he mechanical pumps ever have problems priming ? Coul you start it on aerostart or similar to get it to run long enough to pump / prime ? Likely just failed diaphragm in the pump tho I guess
The motor is now running; Wolfgang the Tiguan came to the rescue with some jumper leads, a new fuel pump and a cut thumb (final blood scarifice...?) the motor has roared into life.
❗❗❗❗
Very excited now; will need to work out a day to take the car somewhere to properly work the motor out as the car isn't street registered and i'm on a main road.
The only things i'll need to do for now is set the timing and get the thing to idle nicely (although it is a bit lumpier than before 😂) (Edit: and work out a catch tank for the breather...)
sander288 wrote:The only things i'll need to do for now is set the timing and get the thing to idle nicely (although it is a bit lumpier than before 😂)
I have the same Ivan Tighe cam (37/68) in my 36hp motor and once the carbs are balanced it idles like a stock motor (not lumpy!).
Well done Shaun. 👍 Can you put some old oil, dirt etc. on the NEW fuel pump?.....it looks a bit flash.🙄
Bet you're pleased to have the engine going......it's a bit like hitting yourself on the head with a hammer, so that you can feel good when you stop! 😂
Cheers, Greg
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Yep well stoked with the motor thanks Greg; i'll bring that engine stand down to you if your free this weeked?
Hi Craig; i'll have to work on getting the carbs balanced if thats the case, early days yet...
All the panels are back on now see picture below; really happy with the decklid how it's sitting and also the muffler which doesn't stick out to far, video to follow which i'm uploading now.
I'll be driving the Cooper Porsche a Wakefield Park [85th anniversary or the Australian Grand Prix], but if you need to get the stand out of your way, you can leave it in front of the shed.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Update on the car, swapped out the 4 - 1 header as it appeared to be more bent more then thought after an altercation with a hire trailer and short ramps.
Replaced with a stainless steel GT 2-tip muffler from Classic Vee Dub
The car had a couple of runs up huntley flat out; but I never got enough tune time before the event, the drags were good; and I believe my time is in the latest VWMA (haven't got the latest issue yet though)
See below a video of a run I took the bug on today
Its running pretty well, but I need to dial in the timing on the Bosch 019 - anyone have a advance function timing light I can borrow?
The other change i'll make is reduce the balance tube size between the Kads to match the fuel line size (1/4"); as at the moment it's 1/2" like what Porsche used to run on it's Solex PBIC's and I think it's contributing to a mediocre throttle response.
Lastly I moved to Sunny QLD, so enjoy the vid with the great sunshine we've had!
hi, i've been in armidale for years, i lived around the corner from you but never pulled my finger out and dropped in.
all sorts of general set up questions, what works best for you?. rear camber setting, did you set the front height even, a little lower or a little higher? camber compensator or rear sway bar, front bar size, etc.
from what stan said, i thought you might have trouble being allowed to run pre 1300 major components on your 67.
Once you look into historic racing you soon find out ALOT of people are bending the rules and are logbooked as such.
This car is probably heading down a more tarmac rally route than all out historic track machine so getting a historic COD probably won't be applicable. If need be I only need to have the crank changed to a 64mm one and I'll have a 1200 and it would be sweet.
The Aussie 67s are basically identical to the 62 and a half beetle in most things except the 1300 engine.
My suspension at the moment is,
Front
Slotted 4" VW wheels
Formula Vee Dunlops or Michelin XZX ( 165R15 - street)
Bilstein shocks
3/4" bugpack sway-bar
Stock height for now - but I have some CSP adjusters that need to be installed which I'll use to lower the front end an inch or so.
Rear
5.5 Slotted 356 style rims
Formula vee dunlops or Michelin XZX (165R15)
Lowered 3 inner splines and 3 outer splines or there abouts
it has about 1.5 deg neg camber at the back
Compensating spring - made by Greg Mackie
That's it. My next developments will be to achieve some more pre-loading onto the compensating spring and I'm looking at swapping over to longer axles from a later swing axle bug (68 onwards) and also some custom valved shocks. The other thing I'm saving for is some Flat 4 BRM's as they are light and also have a wider offset which should give me a bit more track front and back. Lastly If I can find one I'd like to put an adjustable sway bar on the front too.
The tyres are also going to be changed over to some Michelin XAS FF in a 155R15 size, these Michelins have the same rubber compound as a Pilot Sport Cup tyre which is the OE tyre for Porsche GT3 RS and GT2 RS
The car needs to go to a specialist though to get all it's toe-in and out dialed in as I have mates who race historic formula vee and they swear by it (remember they have the same suspension basics)
Been playing with the compensating spring on the back. I've made some longer attachments using High Tensile 1/2 UNF threaded rod, some zinc plated washers and nyloc nuts
The way it is now the bar is taking most of the weight of the back and is also giving the back a little more negative camber.
The other thing I did was bolt down the battery instead of the cable tie & old strap combination I had at Eastern Creek (to the disgust of ANDRA! - but they passed me and cursed VW's again)
